I think it was close to two in the morning when we set off in my father’s car towards Prinsep Street to try to catch the Thaipusam procession from Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple (along Serangoon Road) to Thendayuthapani Temple on Tank Road. Shing Kwan and I had wanted to take photographs of this year's Thaipussam, it being an event we had witnessed when we were younger and had sat on our father’s shoulders. From that bygone vantage point one could see the devotees carrying heavy jugs of milk on their heads (Paalkudams), tongues pierced. Others would be burdened by fearsome Kavadis whose needles would pierce the skin on their shoulders and sides; others would tow small Rathams (chariots) whose reigns would be hooked onto the skin of their backs. It was (and still is) a sight to behold to a small child, an image that would leave a mark. Together (with this mutual memory) we had wanted to see again one of the many images of our childhood, and capture what we could in still life.
By the time we had arrived to the second temple (a journey's completion), everything had ended. What was left were only reeking dumpsters (filled to the brim) and the police trying to disperse the remaining stragglers. Unsurprised (even if a little disappointed) we then decided to have supper along Desker Road at a coffee house I knew that was, still open. While ordering Na’an, Dahl and some excellent chicken Tandoori, we happened upon a group of photographers who had been at the festival. They had on their forehead vermillion Bindis, and them being ethnically Chinese, I made a guess that they had participated in the Hindu procession, and decided to say hello. (Later conversations and further reading would tell me that the red marking on their foreheads was to accentuate the Sixth Chakra, the seat of ‘Concealed Wisdom’. Whether this carried weight with the group, or perhaps it was just a symbol of their welcomed participation, I do not know.)
In the awkward conversation that followed, (after introductions of course) I had asked them how (or rather why) they had decided to photograph the procession. The group had seemed guarded about their motives but mentioned that they were in the midst of shooting a documentary about the different festivals and processions in Singapore. I explained we had wanted get pictures of the participants ourselves but we were too late. They had advised for us to try again next year, citing that it was not something to be missed. ‘What was your favorite part? Of the festival.’ The question was met with them exchange looks with one another, as if urging each other to answer. They were each trying not to answer. Eventually one of the four said: ‘it was very endearing to see these people, the devotees ah, all carrying kavadis. You must be there to experience one.’ I pushed the question further, to see what the others thought: ‘it was interesting lah. I felt very moved while I was there. I think it was the atmosphere of the whole thing that was the best.’ I could get little else out of them, so I moved on unsure if they lacked the ability to articulate their feelings (which were present despite their quiet demeanor) or they had just felt uncomfortable to. After taking some photos of them, I left them to their table feeling slightly unsatisfied, as if they had kept something from me. Perhaps it was their aversion towards eye contact, perhaps it was the fact they had a full day of shooting and they were tired, nonetheless after they left, we discussed the inhospitability of some of our fellow citizens (which in hindsight seemed rather unfair).
The days after Thaipussam however proved to be something of a spectacle for Singapore (with regards specifically to the yearly Hindu procession). There were arrests made of some of the participants of the festival by the police force on the grounds of unruly behavior and a contestable gazetted law, which resulted in tremendous public uproar. The local Internet exploded with articles, memes and other web content about the Thaipusam arrests. Local netizens began posting accounts of physical violence, others recount the action being the other way round. Many of them were just happy to argue on the internet, anonymity being one of the pleasures of the world wide web. The thing about the law and policing in Singapore is that often police officers affect arrests first to keep the peace and protect the public from harm. As a former police officer (I had spent my national service in the Singapore Police Force as an Inspector), I have met and been friends with a many a number of excellent officers who have had the best intentions and the safety of citizens at heart first. There is also (as with the case with all things in life) a second side to the coin. I cannot speak for the whole of SPF and I know that there are some who will abuse the power that has been thrust on to them.
I cannot pretend to be proficient with the laws that govern our country, but I am sure that the problem does not lie with the law enforcers we have here. There are general laws and gazetted orders, The Penal Code and Criminal Law, multitudes and layers of these statutes and charters. Our system is complicated and very hard to change and/or understand (as with the laws of most sovereign nations). That said, some (personal) research has shed some light, and has caught in its thin rays information and the floating dust that may speak more about our nation. Within the laws of public assembly, processions and permits, there is one that forbids that playing of musical instruments and singing during large foot processions. Further reading traced it back to the racial riots that have littered national history. One has to question the ban when one thinks to other religious and or cultural processions in Singapore such as playing Kompang during the a Malay wedding, or the chanting of Buddhist monks during a funeral in which bells are also rung. One can also think of Chingay, though that may fall outside of anything religious (or even cultural). A few days later, the Ministry of Home Affairs issued a statement urging calm within citizens (offline and online). They had made it clear that investigations were still underway and that law is being upheld, and if not, made flexible:
‘The ban on musical instruments applies to all religious foot processions. However, musical instruments have been allowed at events that do not involve foot processions including at social, cultural and community events. These include drums for Chinese lion dances, kompangs at Malay events, and Nathaswaram and Thavil for Hindu community events such as Pongal. Musical instruments have also been permitted at events that might involve a limited foot procession in a certain locality, but are primarily cultural and community events, such as the Chingay Parade and the St Patrick’s Day Parade. The scale, duration, and nature of these events are very different from Thaipusam, and they pose smaller law and order risks.’
The arrests made during the Thaipusam Procession may or may not have been lawful but they have ignited another conversation amongst Singaporeans about the state of our nation, just as the Little India riots have. There is a growing underbelly of rage and anger with the way minorities and foreigners are being treated here and something will come to a head, sooner or later. In conversation with a professor (one that understood the hate and anger that shadow the marginalized, the oppressed like an unwanted haze) I had confessed that I had feelings that I cannot articulate with respect to the local racial state.
I believe it is a common thing, this inability to speak about or for certain peoples and places because one is afraid to not be able to properly represent (or at the very least reflect) their struggles. That feeling is often compounded when I recount my mixed heritage, being a mix of equal parts Indian and Malay. In myself I feel the double consciousness that W.E.B. Dubois spoke of in one of his many essays about race in America. I am aware of my race, I am aware of the problems we face. I am also aware of how people perceive me and the colour of my skin (the curl in my hair, the bridge of my nose and the slant of my eye) and how I react to that.
‘It is a peculiar sensation, this double-consciousness, this sense of always looking at one’s self through the eyes of others, of measuring one’s soul by the tape of a world that looks on in amused contempt and pity. One ever feels his two-ness,—an American, a Negro; two souls, two thoughts, two unreconciled strivings; two warring ideals in one dark body, whose dogged strength alone keeps it from being torn asunder.’
My professor explained to me that I had a duty to these feelings, not only for myself, but also for everyone else who feels this way. For those without voices, for those who do not have fists to put up in the air, those who could not read and could not write. For those who feel Singaporean but are still discriminated, for those exploited everyday, I should choose to write, to be part of the conversation.
After my we finished our dishes of Pakistani food and after we washed our hands clean, we found a middle aged Chinese man cleaning up after us. We had a pleasant conversation with him about his work, his life, Singapore and what had led him here. He made me believe that everyone (anyone) can call Singapore home, as long as they treated it as their home. Our exchange kindled in me warmth that I knew was connected to the fact that what we have here is something worthwhile, if only we take the time to look and appreciate. At the very same time it was something that needed protecting despite the issues we face everyday.
The first thing we spoke about was the weather
around 3 am on a Tuesday night
that was what was on your mind
on my (or our) foreign soil
as you talked about the heat
so hot you had to sleep till 4 before
to work cleaning tables at
a Pakistani restaurant I like
Your English was remarkable
after living in Ireland for 7 years
where you developed a taste for authentic Guinness
to the point where you could taste
the foreignness in our version
so out of courtesy (and assumption)
to pay the bill and leave
Even now I still think about your son
to see the world, and talk to strangers
experience intemperate weather
I had forgotten to ask you
what you liked about Singapore
I am sorry I cannot remember your name
and I am reduced to imperfect pronunciations
From my memory of your inflected tongue
when I asked for your name (a name)
Later on, continuing our conversation in a market that had been paved over, leaving only a few benches and two large trees at the intersection of Lembu Road and Desker Road, we marveled at the conversation we just had. We began talking about the issues low wage migrant workers have, he also being a former police officer, knew the plight of these people, often dealing with them during our regular ground patrol duties. While reminiscing about our days (and nights) in blue, my mind wandered to a conversation I had with a Tamil immigrant that I had spoken to a couple of weeks ago.
‘Sorry Saar, how to go block 366?’ I had boarded the bus at the Tampines Bus Interchange, a commute home that I am very used to. I had sat in the seat directly behind him and he had taken the opportunity to ask me for directions. It was a very sunny day and the light was streaming in on to the upper deck of our SBS bus. After giving him directions I asked him for a picture:
He then turned around, resuming his seat. Rather unabashedly, I tapped on his shoulder again to begin a conversation. He hardly smiled but it was obvious that he too wanted to talk as the conversation wore on. I learned that he had a small but very capable command of English (his native tongue being tamil) that allowed us (or at least me) to have a very insightful conversation. He had been in Singapore for six years and tells me he has it better here that he had it in India. ‘Very hard. No job, no money’ he said rather stoically. ‘Then you okay in Singapore, don't miss India? I asked again. To this he just smiled and shook his head in a fashion that I cannot hope to imitate (it did not indicate a yes or a no but rather a resigned sort of acceptance to the way things are).
‘Last time Singapore good, now different’, he continued. I was surprised to hear that he had perceived change at the state of our nation, just as I had in the recent years. Now, thinking about it, I realise it is not very hard to imagine, they are as much Singaporean as any of us (if not more). The history of an immigrant, just one that is more recent. We continued to gripe at the rising price of food and transport, the heat and the congested roads. He asked about the camera I was using (an LC-A+, a film camera) and upon presenting it, I realised the focus setting were way off, which meant the photo of him was out of focus. I asked again for his permission, to take his photo again:
I don't think, I can ever truly forget the intensity of his gaze, nor the conversation we had. We said our goodbyes when my stop came, with a handshake and a silent nod.
A week later, after developing the photos, I realized my carelessness. There was a certain harsh melancholy in his blurry outline. Despite our shared moment, our conversation, there is something within me (within the average Singaporean) that cannot understand the low-wage migrant worker, or perhaps refuses to. I put the photos side by side, a sort of comparison. It almost felt as if I could not get him into focus that I was not meant to, despite my efforts. There is value in the foreign, in new and the different, but I wish I had more connection to this man who I share a home with. I want to understand, and I want the every(local)man to understand. Society to be more inclusive so that they will have a voice, less space for them to be abused. Food that is at basic standard, housing that is low cost and humane, work environments that are safe. Jobs they can be happy at.
Back at the intersection, of open space (of rest) and the conversation, I tell Shing Kwan of what I think is the pain of the unrepresented. Hopefully their suffering will be alleviated soon, along with the anger of the marginalized, the frustration for those with double consciousness. The Thaipusam Arrests, The little India Riots, the 2011 General Elections show that we are a country in transition (now more than ever). What we turn into, in the next few years, is questionable but change however, is certain.