When I’m feeling run down by the constant churn of new beers from new breweries, I reach for the old classics. I like to revisit the European originals for a sense of perspective on American trends.
Last week it was XX Bitter from De Ranke in Belgium. I wouldn’t call it a blonde ale, and it’s not exactly a tripel. I dare say, it may be the original Belgian IPA. It’s intensely hoppy, though the brewers use only European varieties -- Hallertau and Brewer’s Gold.
It’s bitter, sure, but it’s balanced. Honey flavored malt is followed by a bracing bitterness. It’s perfectly dry with little of the lingering aftertaste typical of old American IPAs. There’s none of the typical Belgian yeast flavor, but it’s immediately apparent this was brewed in Europe.
XX Bitter represents a different approach to IPA, a different path toward hop flavor. Of course, here in the States we’ve gone toward a sweeter, juicier, thicker beer, a move I’m increasingly regretting. But in a world with thousands of small breweries, somewhere someplace must be brewing a beer I enjoy.