#broadcloth

[goshyesvintageads]

Phillips-Jones Corp, 1947

[artschoolglasses]

Greatcoat with detachable cape, American, 1840-60

From the Museum of Fine Arts Boston

[chic-a-gigot]

La Mode illustrée, no. 43, 23 octobre 1904, Paris. Toilette d'après-midi. Modèle de Mme Blanche Limousin, rue La Fayette, 105. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney

Description de la gravure coloriée:

Toilette en drap bleu marine à jupe légèrement traînante, garnie de drap et de mousseline de soie jaune d'or, ainsi que de bandes de zibeline. La façon des manches constitue l'originalité de ce costume; elles sont composées d'une manche très large, évasée du bas et arrondie, que l'on borde d'une patte en drap retenant un volant en mousseline de soie; on prend en même temps, dans la couture de la saignée, un morceau rapporté, doublé de taffetas jaune d'or et souligné d'une bande de zibeline; ce morceau, figurant une pèlerine, retombe en formant des plis sur le dessus de la manche et se prolonge sur l'épaule en forme de patte. On pose sous la manche un haut poignet en drap ou en taffetas rattaché à la doublure.

La jaquette Louis XV, ajustée et à basques arrondies, s'ouvre sur une veste en taffetas jaune d'or encadrée d'un gilet en drap orné de bandes de zibeline et terminé dans fa ceinture; on pose le long des devants de la jaquette trois pattes superposées garnies de groupes de boutons dorés; la patte supérieure entoure l'encolure.

On comble la petite ouverture par un plastron à col droit en velours bleu; le col est garni de fourrure.

—

Navy blue broadcloth ensemble with a slightly trailing skirt, trimmed with golden yellow broadcloth and silk muslin, as well as strips of sable. The way of the sleeves constitutes the originality of this costume; they are composed of a very wide sleeve, flared at the bottom and rounded, which is edged with a cloth placket holding a silk muslin flounce; one takes at the same time, in the seam of the bleeding, an added piece, lined with golden yellow taffeta and underlined with a band of sable; this piece, depicting a cape, falls in pleats on the top of the sleeve and extends over the shoulder in the shape of a paw. A high cuff in cloth or taffeta attached to the lining is placed under the sleeve.

The Louis XV jacket, fitted and with rounded basques, opens onto a golden yellow taffeta jacket framed by a cloth waistcoat adorned with strips of sable and finished in the belt; one poses along the fronts of the jacket three overlapping tabs furnished with groups of golden buttons; the upper tab surrounds the neckline.

The small opening is filled with a plastron with a straight collar in blue velvet; the collar is trimmed with fur.

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[fashionsfromhistory]

Up Close: Skirt Suit 1908-1909 (Goldstein Museum of Design)

[chic-a-gigot]

Harper’s Bazar Vol. XXX, Number 42, New York, Saturday, October 16, 1897; page 867 featuring autumn and winter costumes: brown broadcloth gown, velvet shoulder-cape with high collar, black velvet coat with jet and satin appliqué, winter hat, and tea gown.

[feysplendent]

Misguided Tutorial : anime school girl skirt : Part 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 FInal

Time for the Hard Part: (you can do it)

Step 24: Put a pin in the waistband or mark it in some non-permanent way while doing a test wear. Set it on the ground and line it up to where you marked. Where the fabric overlaps, it should make V shape, as shown in the photo*. 

Step 25: Under the second pleat is where the skirt will eventually come together. Identify which pleat it naturally lines up with underneath. 

Step 26: If you lifted the “bottom” of the fabric, you can see how the pleats come together. They should make a “ >< “ shape, with your pins going where the red arrows point to. Put some guiding pins in place. You should not see them when the skirt is in the “wearing” position. The pleats should hide them entirely. 

Step 27: Open up the waistband area, and undo the top couple pins. With the zipper in the closed position, pin your zipper in place. 

Step 28: Test wear, careful not to stab yourself on a pin. Adjust your zipper as needed. If you have excess fabric, it may look a little bulky near the zipper. Don’t worry, we will trim that later. Take your time on this part. 

Step 29: Hand sew your zipper in place. 

Step 30: Flatten your pleat out of the way with your hand. Sew with a machine, starting from the bottom, up to and meeting where your zipper starts. 

Step 31: Flip your skirt inside out, and look at how much excess fabric you have. If you have a large amount, feel free to trim it as shown above. Leave enough for you to do a simple hem*. 

Step 32: Hand sew some hook and eyes at the waistband. If you’re low on time, you can use velcro instead. I do two at least, as seen in some of my photos. You can install multiple eyes to make the skirt adjustable. 

Step 33: Taadaa you’re done! Check for any missed hems and finish them with some hand sewing or “fray check” glue as needed. Try to store it with the pleats in mind or you will have to iron the pleats to make them crisp and sharp again. 

Notes:

* On the back, at the bottom of the first pleat, you may want to sew a single line at the bottom or install a snap to keep the pleat from floating out further from the rest. When you do a test wear, if you do not see this “floating”  then you’re in luck! You can skip this optional step. If you look at my first photo, you may spot the extra small line of sewing I did to fix this problem on mine. (It is to the left of the red V)

* How you hem this is up to you. Just make certain the fabric won’t start fraying on you, since it is broadcloth. You don’t want to loose all your hard work because a tear forms from a fray. People wont see it, so it just needs to be functional, not pretty. 

[feysplendent]

Misguided Tutorial : anime school girl skirt : Part 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5

Fabric Cutting: 

Broadcloth: Make a looonnnggg rectangle piece of fabric. Iron it BEFORE measuring and cutting. The height will be “Length” Measurement multiplied by two, plus one inch. The width will be Hip Measurement multiplied by three, plus two inches. 

Interfacing: The height will be the “Length” Measurement minus one inch. The width will be Hip Measurement multiplied by three plus one inch. 

What to do with these pieces: 

Step 1: Cut out one rectangle of broadcloth described above. Cut out one rectangle of interfacing described above. 

Step 2: Fold your broadcloth in half “hotdog bun” style. Iron this where it folds so you can easily see the crease. This crease will be your visual guide for step 3. 

Step 3: Place your interfacing along this crease, as shown in the photos above. Make certain you have the adhesive side facing down towards the broadcloth. The instructions provided with the interfacing should describe to you how to identify this.

Step 4: Pin the interfacing as shown above, only along the center edge. Take care that it is as smooth and flush to the broadcloth as possible.*

Step 5: Read the instructions that came with your interfacing. Get your clean, damp* towel ready. If your interfacing did not come with instructions look up a general guide before you start on step 6. 

Step 6: Iron the interfacing onto the fabric, starting where you have the pins. Do NOT do the full ironing time described on your instructions. Do a fraction of this time. Just long enough that the interfacing is semi-adhered to the fabric. Enough that it does not move around on you when you remove the pins. 

Step 7: As shown on the last photo, fold over a small bit of fabric, about 1/2 inch on the short edges of your piece. It should make the broadcloth flush against the interfacing. Sew a simple line to create a hem here. Doing this makes a later step easier. 

Tips: 

* If you have a long tube you may find it easier to roll up your fabric after step 4 to transport it to the ironing board. 

* If your iron does not have a steaming mode, I would leave this towel on the wetter side of damp. Your interfacing is being activated by a combination of moisture and heat. This may take some practice to get right.