#paris shirtmaker

[obeyfeline]

Gawd, he’d put his name on anything. Midcentury tie “designed” by Pablo Picasso for Paris shirtmaker d’Ahetze, for sale at https://www.ebay.com/itm/174428282804?ul_noapp=true

[obeyfeline]

Map of Paris scarf made by the famous 1930s Paris shirtmaker d’Ahetze, whose shop was designed by Jean-Michel Frank himself. For sale at https://www.ebay.com/itm/254707688952?ul_noapp=true

[obeyfeline]

The news that the best currently working custom shirtmaker in Paris, Marc Lauwers, is leaving Lanvin for Francesco Smalto is spurring me to share more Lanvin stuff from its more glorious heyday. Here, a tie with Art Deco motifs created by Armand-Albert Rateau when he decorated its men’s building -- it’s not just a men’s shop, it’s a multi-story men’s building on Faubourg Saint-Honore, which used to be dedicated to bespoke everything -- shirts, suits, hats, and shoes made by Pierre Corthay himself. That ethos is gone. I have a few relics, including a 1980s filoscozia polo shirt with this very motif.

For sale (not by me) at: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LANVIN-ART-DECO-TIE-BLACK/264728719664

[obeyfeline]

Printed silk scarf designed by artist Raoul Dufy for Charvet.

[obeyfeline]

Patterned silk scarf by Lyon silk printers Bianchini-Ferier for Paris shirtmakers Boivin Jeune of Rue de Castiglione.

[obeyfeline]

Detail of a silk jacquard smoking jacket and dusty pink unlined washable leather gloves by Paris shirtmaker Seelio, another of the five best in the world in the 1920s according to Flusser, along with Seymour, Boivin, David and Poirier.

[obeyfeline]

The shirred cuffs of a French-made Hilditch & Key Paris bespoke shirt.

And very long shirt tails, to stay tucked.

[obeyfeline]

Shopping bag/tie pouch from Paris shirtmaker d’Ahetze, at https://www.ebay.com/itm/1920s-Paris-France-Chemisier-Bag-J-C-dahetze-250-concorde-blouse-maker-tailor/143471007795?hash=item216789d833:g:nYEAAOSwlXdd3gG-