February 9th 2002 saw the death of John Noble, co-founder of Loch Fyne Oysters and Loch Fyne Restaurants.
n 1978, Noble was looking for a way to help support the estate, which he had inherited, along with considerable debts, from his father in 1972. When Andrew Lane, a marine farmer, suggested the idea of growing oysters, Noble was immediately enthused.
Recalling that in his childhood he had ground up oyster shells to feed to the hens, he was also aware that the unpolluted Loch Fyne waters, warmed by the Gulf stream, would be ideal for growing shellfish.
However, when he told his bank that he was going to lay an oyster bed, they were unimpressed. “Everyone must have a hobby, Mr Noble,” they responded.
But Noble realised that oysters, which had once been a cheap staple in Scotland, could again be popularised. “We were,” he recalled, “reverting to an ancient tradition.”
The venture grew from a few hundred seed oysters to the millions that are laid down today. Noble and Lane created a flourishing industry, and Loch Fyne Oysters are now exported to shops and supermarkets across the world.
Noble himself became something of an oyster expert. He had an encyclopaedic knowledge of the history of oyster growing and a great love of bivalve trivia; he enjoyed explaining the prodigious feeding habits of oysters, which, when in search of food, filter so much seawater that, were they the size of humans, they would down the equivalent of five municipal swimming pools a day.
Soon Loch Fyne Oysters was branching out with oak-smoked salmon, mussels, langoustines and many other delicacies, which are sold through Noble’s successful mail order business.
In 1980, Noble and Lane decided to set up an oyster bar at the head of Loch Fyne. It began as an umbrella and a trestle table and was then transferred to a nearby cowshed. Soon the venture had become a restaurant, open all day (which particularly suited Noble, who regularly took breakfast there) and serving oysters on ice and fresh seafood in simple surroundings.
Noble’s ethos, that anybody should be able to enjoy good food at a reasonable price, proved highly successful, and Loch Fyne Restaurants is now a large chain of eateries.
Noble was immensely proud that his smokery, restaurant and mail order business at Ardkinglas provided “as many, if not more, jobs” than it did when it was a traditional working estate in his great-grandfather’s day. At the time of his death, his enterprises employed more than 100 local people.
There are 10 Loch Fyne Restaurants up and down the country, providing fresh, sustainably sourced, flavoursome food.