Image courtesy of Cliff CLF.
Materials: Tortoise Shell, Abalone Shell, Mother of Pearl, Gold, Peridot, Aquamarine, Tourmaline, Sapphire, Ruby, Diamond, and Topaz.
Motifs: Modern Art Peacocks
Owned By: Yoshifumi (よし冨美) in Miyagawa Cho
This one is not only a stunner, but filled with so many layers of ornamentation!
First, a look at the motifs! This is really hard to peg down as I don’t think that there is a singular theme here besides it being a creative work of modern art. Miyagawa Cho is known for its unique and modern pocchiri, so this one takes a bit of a spin on that to create this stunner. Looking at it from an abstract point of view it’s possible that the motifs here are peacocks, as the left side looks almost like an Art Deco style arrangement of peacock feathers while the right side takes an even more modern and simplistic take on those same luxurious tail feathers. During the 1980s and 1990s circular peacocks were popular on kimono, so I wouldn’t be surprised if this was based on those!
Looking at the materials there’s a great amount of them to unpack here. The base of this piece is made from tortoise shell, as can be seen in the bottom middle where the natural colors of the shell have been left in to show off just how expensive this piece is. Only a handful of artisans can work with tortoise shell in Japan, so their products carry a hefty price tag. From there some shell, likely abalone for the blue and mother of pearl for the white, was inlaid along with beautiful painted gold and lacquer. The gold almost seems 3D in some places and this was likely done to make the piece feel more three dimensional. It’s almost hard to believe that this piece is lacking in depth in real life, but the artistry here speaks for itself! Judging by the small amounts of metal that we can see along the outside this piece appears to be set into gold, so its cost must have been astronomical!
In the middle of the tortoise shell we have two different types of geometric patterns made in solid gold, likely 12k-18k, that have many different precious stones set into them! On the left we have repeating circles with pears on the outside that’s broken up by circular bands. On the right we have marquise stones patterned with round stones that feature some slightly squiggly gold lines in between. To the far right there’s simply two lines of simple gold with three round stones as accents. There’s so many different colored stones that the rainbow they produce is what keeps this piece dazzling! Some of the easiest ones to spot are peridot (light green), topaz (brown/orange), aquamarine (light blue), and tourmaline (purple and pink). On the right side we can see a dark blue stone that’s a sapphire, a red stone beside it that’s a ruby, and a few small clear stones that are most likely diamonds.
Surprisingly this piece is much larger than the average pocchiri, but to fit in so much detail it kinda makes sense. Here you can see this piece being worn by maiko Fumitama (富美珠):