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RIGA FASHION WEEK - FW 14 - DAY 3

IN, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20 

First one on the schedule of the 3rd day of Riga Fashion Week was the brand IN, designed by Latvian Art Academy graduated designer Inga Nipane.

According to the designer's press release, the inspiration for the Fall Winter collection came from "medieval knights", and that is also why grey-i colors were the base colors in the collection.

IN, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20 

There was in fact some idea of protection, that could be associate with the middle age costumes, but we understood it closer to a "corset" construction than to medieval knights.

IN, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20 

But than watching closely, there was in fact also a regal monarchal sensibility in some pieces, the long strict dresses evoked an austerity  that moved us away from the nobility to a more terrain woman.

Even the hair styling helped to pop up the story, as well as the use of thumbtacks sometimes silver sometimes gold, used mostly in the arms and shoulders.

IN, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20 

But styling, or the absence of it, can be tricky sometimes, and what can highlight a collection can sometimes be too much, what can be good on silver might not be as nice in gold, 4 or 5 thumbtacks can result ok but more can result too much or not that classy, because the shapes, were more ladylike than not, and being not too literal is always a good point to start.

How much is good? how good is enough? is a constant dialogue in a designers mind, style is very much about balance, even when in excess, and balance, one of the most important, difficult, and aspirational goals a designer must pursuit.

Miss Nipane has a long way ahead of her, we surely have missed a few stronger looks that made us leave the room with those images etched in our minds, nevertheless she showed us her skills of cut and construction especially in tops.

We have to wait till SS15 collection to understand how regal can be lighter …and fresh.

IN, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20 

M-Couture was the next brand in the catwalk and the first surprise of the day.

The past edition, due to the presentations of the SS14 collections, TWISSST wrote a tough review about this very young latvian brand.

We are aware that young brands need time to find their identity, even luxury brands experiment it after a change in their creative main figures, being sharp and clear will not only make that period shorter but also make them stronger.

It was a thrilling moment than.

Long pastel oversize wool coats embellished with fur seemed a very way of starting a winter collection, and M-Couture was just …warming up.

M-Couture, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

The oversized coats became shorter and more body conscious, double breasted white coat did brought an element of elegance and refinement to a collection inspired in the Antarctic.  

M-Couture, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

Another point to refer is the quality of the fabrics used by the brand, heavy wools, leather and silks did highlight the collection into a game of contrasts, sometimes too literal and too fresh for Winter, but that added a gracefull lightness that still felt correct.

Life is not a red carpet, woman are real and have real lives with daily need,  and M-Couture seems to understood it with his Fall WInter 14/15 collection, most of the looks result wearable, smartly left behind the naif ethereal mood to a more solid and commercial line of clothe with a mannish and contemporary attitude, and that is quite a nice ®evolution in only... 6 months!

M-Couture, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

NATALIJA JANSONE  

Natalija Jansone, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

Miss Jansone wrote "The Autumn/Winter 2014/15 collection Gourmet Collection is sculptural, cosy and very concise, insofar as cashmere, wool silk, and wool with mohair can be, It is a very tasty collection for real fashion gourmets"

We did not exactly got the point of it , but we do agree with the concise, especially when referring to styling or in the definition of the identity of the collection into a product.

Panties+socks+sandals for Winter (or any other season) is something that not even the wildest minds have jumped into till today, and the idea that each and every single girl wear a black hat with every look, once again, proved, that balance is crucial at the moment of presenting a collection.

Natalija Jansone, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

Light wool dresses came in dark colors, but the skills of Miss Jansone became more obvious with volumes, large coats and heavy fabrics.

The correct cut and construction on coats as well as the choice of ideal fabrics for it did achieve the cosy element as well added a shelter idea that any woman look for to escape the cold winter in Latvia.

Natalija Jansone, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

 D.EFECT

D.Efect, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

"D.Efect creative director Egle Ziemyte loved irregularities, errors and contradictions"

These are the first words we read about the designer in their webpage.

We are not very fan of errors, but if Beauty of Imperfection, the name of the FW14 collection of D.Efect, is their vision of an ordinary mistake, we are quite curious to see their extraordinary perfection.

D.Efect, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

With more than 50 stockists around the world, Miss Ziemyte is quite aware of the responsibility of putting together a collection, that not only ensures and reinforces the codes and the DNA of the brand, but also engages a positive review form both national and international media.

They did a smart move deciding to present their collection in the most relevant event in the Baltic Region.

At the backstage, after the fashion show, Egle Ziemyte explain us how the "imperfection was translated into the extreme oversize sleeves of the clothe, how the colour blocking and the acid colors, not expected in a fall collection, were develop to promote contrasts , to shake minds and to add a bit of emotion to the collection."

D.Efect, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

Egle Ziemyte, brought the color, styling, a sense of joyful and youth, brought the fun element into the 20th edition of Riga Fashion Week.

They took the catwalk by storm, and buzzed energy into it.

No more super high heels, no more platforms, perfect ladies or red lips.

Everything was created for the occasion, and we did very very much appreciated it.

D.Efect, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

NARCISS

Narciss, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

There is always an exception to a rule, in the Fashion Industry Fall Winter collections usually result more appealing for designers and for the customers, it's a season that ensures a highly percentage in the annual revenue of a brand, pieces result more luxurious and customers need more pieces of clothe than in summer.

After a quite interesting SS14 collection, with a proper "mise en scène" Narciss present their FW 14/15 collection with a completely different mood.

Black and Red, heavily layered, with dense brocades cut sharply the previous idea of the brand and present us a totally different reality, a darker one, a vision of a bionic woman, industrial and cold and in a way. 

Narciss, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

 But as the collection moved on, the biconical woman, was still in part woman, and the romantic side of her soon become to appear, as well as the codes of the brand, the collars begun to play a softener paper in the look and the black begun to loose strength to beige and even the red tweedy technical mannish evening coat moved away into a more contemporary and urban look. 

Narciss, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

No matter how strong women can be in a designers mind, the truth about is strength, is heavily associated with their sensibility, and  somehow, their fragility.

There is no other leaving creature that achieves so much, that can be so strong being apparently so fragile, and this duality is what keeps this subject so appealing, in the fashion industry.

Text by: Mr Norbert, Editor of TWISSST

Images courtesy of Riga Fashion Week by Marc Litvyakoff

We kindly thank LiveRiga for the support during Riga Fashion Week 

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SAINT LAURENT PRE-FALL 2014

Delighted with the Pre-Fall 2014 collection of Saint Laurent one might think, It was a long journey since Mr Slimane first collection for the house.

But…was it really different than what Mr Yves Saint Laurent did back in the 60's?

Pre-Fall and Resort collections are today more relevant that ever, they are more commercial, stay longer in the stores and their relevance for a safe revenue is really high.

Mr Slimane choose Miss Grace Hartzel to humanize the codes of the brand, and once again, he did it right.

Text by: Mr Norbert, Editor of TWISSST

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PORTUGAL FASHION - DIOGO MIRANDA FW14- #portugalfashionorganic

Pamela Golbin, chief curator of the Musée de la Mode et du Textile, in Paris, said about Balenciaga "the heritage and history of Balenciaga is still today present in the contemporary fashion industry, a history of power, perfection and ambition". 

Those words came to my mind again, the past Friday 28 of March, around 10:30 pm

Diogo Miranda had just unveiled his Fall Winter14 collection during Portugal Fashion.

Curiously his career started only a few years ago (2007) and he is already one of the most respectful designers in the portuguese fashion industry.

Mr Miranda is one of the few designers under 35 that look back into the history of fashion and actually learn from it, the same way Mr Balenciaga did with Schiaparelli, Vionnet and Chanel back in the 20's. 

It might result a strong statement, but clicking on his webpage you immediately acknowledge the reason why.

The influence of the Golden Era of Couture was always part of the DNA of the brand, for fall the shapes of Balenciaga and Christian Dior from the 50's and the 60's were again, spotted, in a catwalk, with the same idea of renovation they were 50 years ago.

The room was crowded, you could actually see some guests walking and proudly wearing some pieces that we had no difficulties to identify, there's no way that "fast fashion" companies can manufactured those shapes under their "affordable" price policy.

The collection might took us into a journey to the past, but the task of Mr Miranda was to transform it, to be able to convert the dream into reality, to make it relevant for today.

And he did it.

With 42 looks, Mr Miranda created a world of beauty with a cinematic breath, prolific as such, there was almost a piece for every type of women.

Trousers, large coats, jackets, skirts, dresses, night gowns, even a version of a couture neoprene sweatshirt, worn with a tulip pale rose skirt and a version of a tuxedo jacket, a mix of "boy meets girl" with a revival to the bolero jackets Mr Balenciaga created during his first years in Paris around 1940, inspired by some masterpieces of Goya or Zuloaga.

Even in the fabrics there was a respect for the past and another moment of connection between eras.

A top built in what it looked like a silver satin remind us of Gazaar,  a "rough" silky fabric Mr Balenciaga created during the 60's to sculpt perfectly his creations, avoiding any other technique that was not cut and (invisible) seems.

Mr Miranda "it-girl" might be a lover of the the past but she is surely a woman of today.

Truly a "bourgeois nonchalant", she is a bit "boyish" too, and that was the reason why a double breasted night blue satin silk jacket was created, to provide some shelter to a rebel soul.

But another high point of the collection was about to come.

The refinement of the girl that becomes a women, that was next on the list.

The appearance of the woman that has the confidence to be herself, and that is the fusion Mr Miranda was seeking, the personification of his work.

That moment where the fabulous pink "tonneau" geometric light pink double face neoprene shapes, are step aside to the intense red dresses.

The girl has become adult and she is the perfect ambassador of her own will, being übber feminine, yet conservative, discreet, a polite "sexyness" behavior, a women of today.

Mr Miranda, in only 7 years, has develop a brand, has introduced his name in the market and has created an online store.

He is ready to succeed.

The only difference between here and Paris or NY, is that, there are not worldwide "it-girls" living around, with 250k followers on Instagram that ignite, in only a few week,s the name of DIOGO MIRANDA worldwide.

Nevertheless one thing is absolutely clear for us, The MADE IN PORTUGAL, is no longer, the ugly duckling of the fashion industry.

Text by: Mr Norbert, Editor of TWISSST

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MIGUEL VIEIRA EYEWEAR 2014 ADV CAMPAIGN

Miguel Vieira just unveil his Eyewear SS14 advertisement campaign.

Two Words: BANG BANG!

The portuguese master of black and white, one of the most completes fashion designers in Portugal, is also perhaps one of his best ambassadors, embroidering the Made in Portugal not only in clothe but as part of the DNA of the brand.

This campaign is no exception.

You certainly will find design, precision, contemporary lines and minimalism, and those, are the codes of Miguel Vieira.

Mr Vieira soon understood that designing RTW for both man and women was not only necessary for Portugal, but also an asset, the portuguese man can be sometimes conservative but, they also quite know how to empower it with the right amount of fun and sex appeal...after all, isn't that part of being a truly gentleman?

For the homonymous Eyewear collection, we couldn't expect less than that.

In a collection with feminine and masculine proposals, that include sun and prescription models, the frames come on acetate, thiner than ever.

Among the metals, titanium stands out as the trend of the season.

The colors come in blocks ( could be any other way?) from gradients to matt effect.

Presented in the MIDO (Milan) and SILMO (Paris) international trade fairs, The Miguel Vieira Eyewear SS14 collection is now available for sale in specialized shops.

Campaign Crew

Photographer: Victor Hugo Male Model: João Sousa - Elite Lisbon Female Model: Ana Paula - Elite Lisbon Make Up: Lucília Lara Styling: Miguel Vieira Team

Text by: Mr Norbert, Editor of TWISSST

Images courtesy of Showpress & Miguel Vieira

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RIGA FASHION WEEK - FW 14 - DAY 2

Becarousell, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20 

The first name of the day was Becarousell .

Dace Krieviņa-Bahmane is the head of the atelier, a still young fashion designer graduated from the Riga School of Design and Art Academy of Latvia.

Mrs Krieviņa-Bahmanen has been developing an idea of a new latvian "bourgeoisie", far away from the bling bling, with a precise idea of cut, moving away from the perfect curly blond hair to a wilder aesthetic , the use of embroidery is as controlled as it's supposed to be, and a close relation and positive appreciation about the use of leather, as a fabric and as a technical skill, example as a useful trim to cover seems and to provides a bit of balance or color in a certain peace of clothe.

Becarousell, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20 

And that seemed like a good way to expect a FW collection.

And as much as this is just the way it is, there was a lot in this fall collection that remind us Tennis, the brand's great SS collection we saw a few months ago.

Shapes or colors result quite familiar especially the use of the mint green leather, a vibrant color not common in leather and not easy to forget.

Becarousell, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20 

And despite that just moved us a bit outside of the concept of "new", the evolution process from a previous work, and the construction of an identity is also something that a designer must pursuit, establishing the codes of a brand are a difficult and quite important part of a designers work and a clever marketing attitude.

But there was also something that felt fresh and lad us from Riga to a busy corner at Le Marais.

The nonchalant redesign of the menswear evening jacket is the highest point in the FW collection, the way how the lapels were sharply cut and embellished establishs a new dimension of how Latvian women can be "über" feminine being slightly "mannish".

Becarousell, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20 

It was time to PAOLA BALZANO;

Paola Balzano, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20 

"Paola Balzano is a high-end womenswear label founded in 2012 under creative direction of  italian/taiwanese designer Paola Balzano"

These are the first words you can read on the designers Official WebPage, and a sort of enigmatic curiosity invades your mind.

We add, it is most likely that when you see Miss Balzano first, you cannot avoid to do it twice!

At the end of the show, we had two quotes:

One is that the label is extremely young and two, that there are pieces that are sincerely relevant.

Extremely young because there were moments when it felt too strong, too much and too dense, pieces that perhaps should not be selected for the catwalk in the first place, or to be in a Fall Collection, but a designer needs time to find its own path, to be able to separate things are right from things that look right, and to reject everything that is not in any of these two options.  

Paola Balzano, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

We decide to review the collection according to the second option:

The relevant pieces, the ones we understand might tell a story, a story of less is more among the choices of the designer.

The made in Italy was present, the sharp tailored cuts, the quality of the fabrics, the details and how the clothe should be finished, these are all good points, strategic points, that allow us to think that Miss Balzano has the skills and the understanding that luxury is not about a label but a truly sensational experience, in each and every aspect of it.

Paola Balzano, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

Paola Balzano, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

MIss Balzano intention was to bring her own world, culture and believes, the purity of the italian cut and the explosion of color of Orient, creating silky rich colorful patterns or rethinking the Kimono sleeves with a wooly-mohair fabric.

The first step is already taken, an approval so far.

Building a name in the fashion industry is very much as a proper relation with a good perfume, a few drops are wonderful; more, not so good.

Paola Balzano, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

ONE WOLF was next in the schedule.

One Wolf, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

The urban shapes, the multi layering, the easiness and coolness urban "gowns" are pumping up in the industry a few seasons so far, and it seems that they are here to stay.

And One Wolf has discover a way to make them personal.

Quite relevant  in the Baltic region, they already entered in the Belgium and in the Japanese market.

One Wolf, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

One Wolf, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

Agnese Narnicka, is the name behind the brand.

She develop a label which is a product result of a brainstorm incubator of a feminine urban sensibility with a crush on sportswear.

As it is common, menswear looks result a bit more stylish, contemporary, in one word, stronger.

The hand of Narnicka is felt here more artistic, injecting a bit of color here and there and adapting soft fabrics more associated with womenswear.

To create a more viril urban look, she played with proportions, oversizing the forms seeking a personal concept of, as example, a pure sweatshirt or a shirt meets Kaftan.

One Wolf, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

One Wolf, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

Despite the looks might result quite strong, One Wolf has crossed the line and find the right line between aesthetic and wearability.

Almost each and every piece is absolutely commercial, is very well done, and the price policy quite acceptable.  

No wonder why, in the baltic region, as well as outside their borders, their customers, stockists or retailers keep increasing!

The last show of the day was in charge of NÓLÓ

Nóló, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

From a quick look to the press released of the brand, i remember they mentioned something about "slightly eccentric style"

We believe they were extremely modest about it.

"Dramatic Excess" might be more in the line.

There were no boundaries or barriers for this brand, more was ... better! 

Nóló, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

Nóló, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

Feathers in the head, sleeves, shoulders and chest, faux-fur coats with long heavy embroidery dresses mixed up with sneakers, are some of the ideas that NóLó had in mind for the Latvian women, for the upcoming winter.

Contemporary or not, one thing is for sure, this NÓLÓ woman, will be one of the kind!

Nóló, FW14, @rigafashionweek #rfw20

Text by: Mr Norbert, Editor of TWISSST

Images courtesy of Riga Fashion Week by Marc Litvyakoff

We kindly thank LiveRiga for the support during Riga Fashion Week 

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RIGA FASHION WEEK - FW 14 - DAY 1

Paviljons, FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20 

The 20th edition of Riga Fashion Week was inaugurated the 1st of April with a cocktail and a press conference, where the main achievements and the aspirations were shared with the press and some special guests.

The fashion shows begun yesterday in a new location.

Podium, a luxurious space in Riga where some of the most prestigious luxury brands worldwide have their own corners, and dedicated attendants available to help you in any situation.

At the 5th floor surrounded by crystal walls, the journey begun with PAVILJONS, a fashion and lifestyle concept store located in Riga.

When the industry takes over a catwalk, there is never a one note collection. Paviljons present possibilities for both womenswear as menswear, cosy, warm and wearable.

Paviljons, FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20 

Paviljons, FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20 

Paviljons, FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20 

Knitwear was the key element that connect all the collection, wooly fabrics to create an urban and contemporary image, there was moments when it was reduced almost to an elegant code of conduct, in fact there are many facets to be explored when you are around 20, elegance is also one of them.

But often when a collection has such a sportswear attitude, menswear looks result more relevant than the female long ethereal waiving dresses.

The case might change when your option is a long oversized jacquard wool coat...it works alone, all by himself.

Paviljons, FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20 

Paviljons, FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20 

QOOQOO, designed by Alyona Bauska, is the agressive urban nonchalant Latvian brand, it is a faithful portrait of Alyona.

QooQoo FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20

Born during the soviet occupation of Riga, she absorbed the social revolution, the cultural changes and the willing for a new beginning.

And that is exactly how her designs look like, exactly how the models are casted to the catwalk and exactly how the collection is presented.

QooQoo FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20

The DNA of the brand are the sharp prints, used in all kind of garments, leggings, coats, t-shirts, sweatshirts, bombers and also in socks, the ability of creating powerful visual pieces sound really appealing and Mrs Bauska found her way.

QooQoo FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20

QooQoo FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20

But there is always the other face of the coin.

Working with sharp prints means the obligation of mainly working technical fabrics, the absence of pure organic, and in the fall collection, that was the missing point.

Cosy Coats or Overcoats were required to complete the board, felt necessary a warm element to create the dialogue with the brand's DNA, there are rules that need to be follow in the fashion industry, warm in fall is one of them. 

QooQoo FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20

Anna Led was next in the schedule, one of the most recognized fashion designers in Latvia, that create a line of clothe that exhales duality and possibilities, there was a duality on her mind.

There were two types of women in the catwalk yesterday, the contemporary urban ultra feminine with a joyful sensibility with high boots and the cap and the "lady like" conservative look.

Anna Led, FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20

The fact is that Anna Led is a brand for today's women, the urban, the professional, the artist, the mother or the wife, the entrepreneur and the politician, there are many women's in one woman, and it seems that Mrs Led know, a few of them, quite well!

Anna Led, FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20

Anna Led, FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20

Anna Led, FW14, rigafashionweek #rfw20

Closing the day , KATYAKATYA SHEHURINA.

Designing in lace, is today, almost a cliché, but KatyaKatyaShehurina is more than a fashion brand, it's a bridal fashion house, or so it looks like, and that is what the brand presents, season after season, at Riga Fashion Week.

A compilation of lace dresses, in all colors and forms possible.

Nothing more, no jackets, or coats, no accessories, no trousers, simply dresses, in lace.

But inclusive a Bridal Fashion House must understand that to do a private show for their customers is one option, but when the option is to do a collection in the national fashion platform of Latvia and the Baltic Region, to create more than dresses, is also a relevant option.

The customer who buys a lace dress for Winter, might also need a very good coat, ... we think.

  Text by: Mr Norbert, Editor of TWISSST

Images courtesy of Riga Fashion Week by Marc Litvyakoff

We kindly thank LiveRiga for the support during Riga Fashion Week 

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PORTUGAL FASHION - HUGO COSTA - #portugalfashionorganic

Born in 1983 in São João da Madeira, Hugo Costa discovered fashion at the age of 19, the process started when designing shoes became more than an hobby to become something serious and a proper full time occupation .

Mr Costa was one of the young designers who, in August 2013, presented their creations at the Vision Copenhagen Fair and also had the opportunity to show his work in December of that year, at the Matadero - Creación Contemporánea center in Madrid, with the support of Portugal Fashion. 

With a clear influence around urban culture and sportswear, perhaps the career of Mr Costa did not start by the clothe as common designers, but surely he did know how to establish the connection between high-tech quality sneakers and a proper closet full of pieces of clothe.

Talking with the designer at the backstage, a few minutes after the end of the presentation of the Bushido, he explains the reason of the name and the aesthetic of the collection .

"Bushido" was the code of conduct of the samurai , the code that set the relations between the samurai community and the surrounding environment, a moral code value, through loyalty, martial arts and honor unto death."

Mr Costa is claiming for ethic and values, and he went all through it creating volumes that are loose and exaggerated, but still wearable and somehow commercial, a marriage between orient and occident , about values that built plural societies and aesthetics from crowded modern and urban cities. 

And this contemporary urban warrior needs more than clothe, sneakers, backpacks also took part of the collection.

Perhaps Mr Costa is not the case of the designer that already born being a designer, the type of designer that draw dresses when he was 6, but after what we have just saw, it seems he soon realizes... rules of the game.

Text by: Mr Norbert, Editor of TWISSST

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PORTUGAL FASHION - LUÍS BUCHINHO - #portugalfashionorganic

There are names in the fashion industry that need no presentation, you can open your eyes in a room filled with clothe and understand which one belongs to whom.

This is the case of the aesthetic created by Mr Luis Buchinho.

The apparently simple and comfortable silhouettes are a tricky masterpiece of cut and technique , the color palette always strong, today it went from pastels to acid pink and often contrasted with black and white.

According to the designer this collection was inspired by the work of the painter and photographer Georges Rousse.

Painting, Architecture and Art are constant brainstormings that Mr Luis Buchinho transform each season into pieces of desire.

With his Fall14 collection, the dialogue kept his way, but also something more evident popped up, there was a mannish sensibility on the room that somehow...result hyper feminine.

Despite the sharp and precise cut boxy shapes in same cases, there was an extreme caution about creating volumes that make it softer and contemporary.

Mr Buchinho is an expert choosing fabrics.

Pleated wool, double-side tweeds, double-side color, leather and leather trims, all thought to provide the necessary weight, balance and movement, or...the absence of it. 

But, as well as the "trompe l' œil" technique is already part of the codes of the brand, craftsmanship and technique are a major value in this collection, and the Fall/Winter 14 Collection a technical accurate test that Mr Buchinho approved, with honors.

Bringing back the superposed technique using leather pleats over a short leather dress, layering them in order to create the illusion of another piece of clothe, might not be new, but it sure keeps looking beyond modern! 

Text by: Mr Norbert, Editor of TWISSST

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PORTUGAL FASHION - ALVES/GONÇALVES - #portugalfashionorganic

The first day of the 34th edition of Portugal Fashion was closed by Alves/Gonçalves, the brand signed by Manuel Alves and José Manuel Gonçalves,

The quote "Save the best for last" might sound a cliché, but it looks quite right also this time.

This Fall Winter collection might be the strongest, richest, luxurious, technical and yet contemporary collection of Alves/Gonçalves I can remember.

We were invited to take our seats, a bit later than 10pm, in a library with dozens of thousands of books, all precisely compiled with colorful covers at the "Academia das Ciências" in Lisbon.

Three musicians were already taking their positions, and they perform also a mix of classical music with a contemporary twis(ss)t.

Toxic by Miss Christina Aguilera or Alejandro of Lady Gaga, were somehow rediscovered by and audience happily surprised.

The presentation was done and the mood set; it was time for Fashion.

The first look was in charge of Milena, a über talented model that leaves no competition to any other in the catwalk...she does not walk over it, she floats in heels!

A large heavy wool anthracite color base long coat with fur on the lapels and pockets, body conscious and slightly military,  remember instantly the codes of the brand, elegance, sensuality and sophistication, sharp tailoring, whispering instead of shouting, as it as to be.

The skirts, another code of the brand, felt dense and cosy, took us back to the 50's, slightly above or below the knew, in wool and tweed pattern, and also in fur, in a beautiful petrol green/blue fur.

It resulted highly democratic, luxuriously "speaking".

It was truly ageless, most of the pieces can be worn by a 25 years old girl or a 55 years old lady.

At the backstage, Mr Manuel Alves told us "It's all in the  details, in the act of exploring manual/handicraft finishes, merging the urban of today with the more tribal feel of  the past"

But, we at Twissst, dare to say, something went forward or felt newer than ever.

How the geometric prints play with handicraft pieces, handmade with cotton thread and interwoven wool bangs, the duality and extreme contrast from the strictness of the tweeds with the gentle touch of the silk jacquards and again...the density of the velvets.

It is like if,  all the things that might not work together, somehow, they did!

And that is, what fashion with capital F, IS!

Text by: Mr Norbert, Editor of TWISSST

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PORTUGAL FASHION - DAY1 - JOÃO MELO COSTA #portugalfashionorganic

João Melo Costa is one of those designers that can make your brain record his name immediately in the moment you are in touch with his work.

With only 24 years, Mr Costa already presented several collections since March 2012, under the platform Bloom, and has been nominated for the Portuguese Fashion Awards as Best Novel Fashion Designer.

And if Portugal recognizes his talent, so did Madrid and London, that host the designer in 2012 and 2013.

For Fall Winter, The Boyish girl, was the it-girl of the designer mood board.

A touch of masculinity, the pinstripe fabrics and how through the cut and the drapes were forced to become graceful and feminine is something Mr Costa do very very well.

The double face color fabrics, that create geometric cuts, that truly are illusions for the human eye, but are technical masterpieces for movement and simplicity.

The sharp use of color and the sense of minimal and embellishment, the precision in the cut and a deep understanding of what contemporary really means as well as what women are claiming "today" and want for their daily life, as well as for a special moment, and that all of that works properly under the same label and season, when you are a 24 years old designer... is not common, in fact is something quite extraordinary.

Nothing else left to say, the clothe speaks for itself.

Text by: Mr Norbert, Editor of TWISSST

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PORTUGAL FASHION - DAY 1 - HIBU #portugalfashionorganic

The second show of the day, was in charge of HIBU, a new brand whose creative direction is responsibility of Marta Gonçalves, Gonçalo Páscoa, and Nuno Sousa, all together, they might just get over 3/4 of a century, and that, in the fashion dictionary means, Thrilling.

And so it was.

Strong, edgy and conscious can define the concept of this urban warrior, that seeks freedom and movement, easily understandable in some A line shapes in the sweaters and how the trousers were built around the knee.

The understanding of styling and accessories in the collection as well as a quite interesting line of shoes developed by Joana Da'Graça allow us to unveil a promising short term revenue. 

For Fall , HIBU choose mainly black-ies, the absence of color as such was juxtaposed with a countless prolific shapes, all reinvented, deconstructed and oversized, laired and carefully designed to enhance any enthusiast of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp.

But these talented Hat-Trick are portuguese, and we were in LIsbon, it is also right that fashion is global, that internationalization is always an option, sometimes THE option, nevertheless contemporary and avant-garde are concepts have not to be related with dark, somber or dusty moods, perhaps doing it in lighter colors could inclusive result more innovative than not, color can easily pump up a collection and enhances the understanding of layering in a piece of clothe, it will pump up any advertisement campaign and engages a wider audience.

And for a young brand, all of this mixing with clever marketing and proper branding, can be decisive between being successful ...or not.

Text by: Mr Norbert, Editor of TWISSST

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PORTUGAL FASHION- DAY 1- STORYTAILORS #portugalfashionorganic

Portugal is a country of contrasts... a beautiful country of contrasts. 

LIsbon is perhaps one of its best ambassadors; cosmopolite, sybarite, international, streets "gently" crowded of people that exhale a mix of races as result of decades of conquests and the natural immigration process associated with it.

The old and new, glimpses of history and progress, modern art and heritage, all works properly and genuine here.

When the organization casts the location for the shows, it is than easy understandable, why STORYTAILORS, the brand signed by João Branco and Luís Sanchez, took place at Ribeiro da Cunha Palace, dated from 1877!

...They also command this revolutionary contemporary way of living.

The saloon where the show took place was not as big as we could might wish, but was more beautiful than most of us could imagine.

But for the STORYTAILOR(S) boys, duality and contrasts are concepts that soon begun to be familiar with, in fact, boundaries is a concept they do not know at all.

The show was presented as a theater masterpiece, with several acts, the history was told by stunning voice of Sonia Tavares, perhaps the most known face of the THE GIFT, one of the most international contemporary portuguese music bands.

And music also plays its element on the show, a potpourri of moods injected also a fun element, what begun from the I Feel Pretty , from The Puppini Sisters suddenly jump into Once Upon a Time of Miss Del Rey and end up with Bang Bang, a Nico Vega version...and quite a statement.

HOT COUTURE, a clever name to define a collection that had a story behind.

At the backstage, João Branco and Luís Sanchez said that "this collection is somehow an evolution of our previous work, the women that we just saw, is a daughter of two different people, she was born in Lisbon and she has on her personality the taste for the tailoring from her father (a made to measure tailor) and the romantic edge from her mother"

That was the essence of the construction of each piece that cover the upper body, made with Burel, a portuguese rough wool, connected and "stitched" with no seems, only pushpins, a democratic process that allows each person to adjusted of changed it according to their daily needs.

The tops evoked protection, shelter, sometimes shields and armors the iconic "Bustier" reinvented every season, and the draping underneath appealed to the romantic and naif edge of... the portuguese mother.

All made sense, there was all there, STORYTAILORS are in fact STORYTELLERS... but, from the future!

Text by: Mr Norbert, Editor of TWISSST

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Portugal Fashion - ORGANIC - LINE UP!

Wednesday, 26 2014, @ Altis Grand Hotel

This will be our office for Today, in the city center of Lisbon.

Tomorrow we will go to Oporto... there is a lot to see.

This is the Organic Line Up, the 34rd edition of PORTUGAL FASHION.

STAY TUNNED! ;)

WED 26 | Lisbon

19:00 Storytailors

21:00 HIBU | João Melo Costa

22:00 Alves/Gonçalves

  THU 27 | Oporto

20:30 Júlio Torcato

21:30 Luís Buchinho

22:30 Daniela Barros | Hugo Costa

23:30 Anabela Baldaque

  FRI 28 | Oporto

18:30 Susana Bettencourt | Estelita Mendonça

19:00 Bloom: Carla Pontes

19:30 Katty Xiomara

21:30 Diogo Miranda

22:00 Bloom: Mafalda Fonseca

22:30 TMCollection by Teresa Martins

23:00 Bloom: Carlos Couto

23:30 Fátima Lopes

  SAT 29 | Oporto

15:00 INDUSTRY: BALLENTINA | CHEYENNE | CONCRETO by Helder Baptista |

MAD DRAGON SEEKER by Alexandrine Cadilhe & Daniel Simões

15:30 Bloom: Teresa Abrunhosa

16:00 SHOES: Dkode | Fly London | Goldmud e Alexandra Moura |

J. Reinaldo | Nobrand | Sílvia Rebatto

17:00 Carlos Gil

17:30 Bloom: Cláudia Garrido

18:00 Meam by Ricardo Preto

19:00 Vicri

19:30 Bloom Contest: Ana Catarina Santos | Ana Vicente |

Eduardo Amorim | Haggard by António Vaz Soares |

João Rôla | Martinho Gonçalves | Pedro Neto | Teresa Carvalheira

20:00 Lion of Porches

21:30 Dielmar

22:00 Bloom: Joana Ferreira

22:30 Luís Onofre

23:00 Bloom: K L A R

23:30 Miguel Vieira

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STYLE TIPS : By Mr Umberto Sannino

Mr Umberto Sannino

Six Months ago, we have met each other.

Mr Sannino was wearing some cropped loose fit yet body conscious grey wool trousers and a beautiful oversized large coat, made by himself.

There was purity on that look, a sincere aesthetic approach on functionality and precision, clothe can tell very much about ourselves, and this time was no different.

Mr Sannino, based in Milan is a Fashion Designer and the Editor in chief & fashion director of airPORT magazine.

When we thought to introduce a new category named STYLE TIPS, we realize Mr Sannino was quite the right way to start with it.

We will ask to some of the most emerging creative talents in different fields to cooperate with us, choosing one product they like the most, they have in their shopping list or that is part of that long long wish list.

Mr Sannino style tip are these stunning Chelsea boots, by memento duo.

How to define Mr Sannino choice in 3 words? BOOTS TO ROCK might be an option, but the brand speaks for itself "drawing free inspiration from rock icons such as Mick Jagger, Bob Dylan, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Janis Joplin, Debbie Harry. When artisan shoemakers created footwear sewn on the feet of the rockstars, making them unique"

Mr Sannino also kindly send us an extra image… that curiously we highly appreciate 

… now …is it clear enough why Mr Sannino choose the mementoduo Chealse boots…right ?

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YOUNG & TALENTED : Interview with KAMIL SOBCZYC

" i did a trip to Scotland...My eyes suddenly open to a new form of beauty and artistic expression , the world of fashion …and here i am…"

Kamil SOBCZYK, for TWISSST

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Name: Kamil Sobczyk

Nationality: Polish

Job: Fashion Designer

Brand:  SOBCZYK

Target Clients: male/female, ages between 25 and 60)

You never leave the house without: my iPod

What makes you smile: ... morning sunshine 

Something you cannot stand: ...rainy waether

A city: Katowice

Do you work with music? ...always

What is the last CD you have bought?...Robin Thickie 

Awards or nominations:

Final Fashion Designer Awards 2009

Final Re-act Fashion Show 2009, 2010

CCC-crush Textile competition final nomination

Kamil Sobczyk FW13 Campaign 

" I was born in Silesia in Poland , as a small boy I was quite active, always jumping into new things, and in the moments i was not doing anything, i invented something to do. 

I also loved cartoons very much, and than i started to sketch them, but I didn't did it from a costume perspective. I do remember that each drawing was very polished , some are still present in my work today.

In primary school I took part in all the artistic competitions available, but in my mind i wanted to be a doctor so in High School i studied Biology ... but before i finally graduated , i did a trip to Scotland and…everything changed!

My eyes suddenly open to a new form of beauty and artistic expression , the world of fashion …and here i am…"

Kamil Sobczyk FW13 Campaign 

We met Mr Sobczyk in the Off- Out of Schedule platform, during Fashion Philosophy, Poland Fashion Week, a few years ago.

I believe it was one of his first shows, if not the first one, and that also caught our attention from the first minute.

How many young designers work with leather , cut it with laser and creates patterns that unified volume, constructions and wearability?

Those were the initial reasons why, but there is much more that the eye can reach!

Despite his short career, Mr Sobczyk has very clear the way to achieve what he told us as a successful career.

An extended conversation with one of the most promising designers in the Polish Fashion Industry !

We hope you enjoy it as much as we did.

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                                                                                   THE INTERVIEW

TWISSST (T)- Is one born, by defect, a Fashion designer?

KAMIL SOBCZYK (KS)- "I don't think that was my case, my first contact with the luxury fashion industry occurs when i was already in college, but ignited a whole new process, i understood how could i connect an artistic expression into something that people could actually wear. So as soon as i return from  Edinburgh i decided to be a student at the Academy of Fine Arts, in Łódź."

T-Do you believe that a designer’s role today is different from a designer’s in the 90’s, for example?

KS- "At the present time the role of the designer is quite complicated, especially because there are so many people embracing fashion design, the ever increasing competition is something quite unique here, In Poland there is a widespread opinion that anyone can design if you only know how  printing a T-shirt ... this is crazy!

20 years ago it was different, the political situation of our country did not allow the development of arts such as fashion design, so the entire process did not exist as today.

A lot of things were not available on the market.

Today we have the opposite reality, a few key fashion brands and tons of young designers that grow like mushrooms after the rain, the whole situation increases pressure, but we are designers, we need to be resilient on this"

Kamil Sobczyk SS2014 YEAGER collection Mood board

T – When did you create your Brand? What drive you to do that?

KS- "That was a process that begun in college, i understand it as a starting point of a growing identity, also for myself, at the beginning my parents support me, also in the initial management situations, then appeared one investor who wanted to develop the brand and make it more stable."

T - How do you define your brand’s identity?

KS- "Classical Boundaries, my brand is for people who are looking for the fashion boundaries, to play with their own looks with the precision of a tailored jacket, built with the finest fabrics, carefully sewn, with a deep careful in every detail.

We try everyday to carry out solutions and alternative to common mass market or fast fashion "boutiques", creating a wardrobe of possibilities for  individual customers."

T- How is the day to day basis in your atelier?

KS- "Usually i start the day by checking my email, my tasks, and talk to my manager about current activities and meetings for which we must prepare, I need to feel the buzz to make sure the all process it's on its tracks, that the whole machine goes forward.

Also check at what stage is the construction process, i do prepare and review our designing projects for individual customers or update and rethink the basis of the next collection."

T- What is the starting point for a new collection? Is there a source of inspiration? Is there a variable, catalyzing new element for each collection? Or is more an evolution from the previous collection?

 KS- "I start thinking about the theme, the topic, my source of inspiration. It is a difficult task because there are many points of marketing and trade, which during the design had also have to fit in the collection, it has to be commercial and  innovative.

But it's an intuition process, while collecting information, re-search, the development of the mood board, the first draws of silhouettes, the first idea for details,embellishment or embroideries .... honestly speaking, this is the stage i enjoy the most in the entire process"

Kamil Sobczyk's Atelier

  T- When you think about creating a piece of clothe, do you first choose the fabrics and then the pattern, or is it the other way around?

 KS- "Both ways work for me, it depends, sometimes I create a drawing first and then match the fabric or vice versa. I usually have in mind a variety of looks, of images, sometimes shapes and silhouettes and than i reproduced them with a the selection of fabrics that i believe work the best until the image became the most real, according not only with the design but also to market expectations and requirements."

T- About fabrics, which ones you use more frequently? Technical or organic?

KS- "Usually I use , cotton, heavy wool, and leather, mostly organic, but I choose the fabric according to the concept of the collection. I like fleshy and thick fabrics, it's not common to see a SOBCZYK piece that is light, i am more a structure designer.

But i also use mixes of organic with technical, for example for trousers i  usually made them from a mix ​​of denim with lycra, to have structure but also mobility, strictness and somehow softness." 

T - Is there a place and market for “local fashion designers” in Poland?

KS- "I hope so, in Poland, there is a boom of new spaces where the young designers can sell their products, inclusive one in Katowice, named TOGETHER, and there is a response from customers to this "nouvelle vague".

Many young designers also use the online platforms, because it reduces the cost of renting a large studio. I hope that will all this movements we can develop a good market web for fashion design, it will be positive also for polish people to develop kind of a national fashion identity as an alternative to to the western and eastern products."

T- Do you have customers or any selling points abroad? Where can we find your clothes? 

KS- "Currently my clients are from Poland, my clothes are available on the platform SHWRM.pl

At the moment we are negotiating with some foreign online stores, especially with some relevant label from France, so this is the first foreign platform and I hope that we might be successful in this process and slowly built a path abroad."

T- If you could select 2 personalities, one national and one international, who do choose? Who would you like to dress? And why?

KS- "Perhaps Mr Johnny Deep or Mr Brad Pitt, they are different but they represent perhaps both of the realities we develop at the brand, I would like very much to work with them, understand what were their requirements and to able to achieve it.

Locally, certainly Mr Michał Witkowski ,writer, and Miss Edyta Herbuś, actress." 

 Mr Michał Witkowski, photo courtesy of Mr Rafal Maslow

Miss Edyta Herbuś

T - Does the internationalization of fashion, the e-commerce, the international trade itself, either by the internet phenomenon, is an escape route for the Polish fashion?

 KS- "Certainly, it's a worldwide opportunity for any designer. We have also to develop pieces that could match these kind of customers.

It's a huge opportunity . For me it is a very important issue, especially because we are starting the business, the distribution facilities and the absence of logistic are quite important for a safe revenue model, it's a bit more easy for young designers who want to build their businesses.

I also think that this has a positive influence on the Polish economy, and the way polish people might face the fashion industry."

T - To talk about fashion right now, without associating the impact caused by social media and the Web in general is unthinkable. As a fashion designer, do you believe a 3.0 education is necessary for future designers? Are the institutions prepared and training the designers of today and tomorrow focused on this reality?

KS- "Absolutely!

In Poland, there is a lot of theory in our schools, which is obviously very important, but there is a lack of preparation in the professional field, in my opinion we should have more practical knowledge of how the business works.

The designers create many collections according to their own sense of fashion. I believe that there is also more things to have in consideration trends, colors, marketing, volumes, shapes, all major fashion houses work with it..., why in Poland we do not use it as a base tool?

That is a good question.

 T - History has shown us on many occasions that management and creation doesn't always go hand in hand. Is the role of a “designer-manager” a must-be nowadays?

KS- "If you want to be a great designer you can not also be a manager, how do you do all that you do nothing ... Of course basic knowledge in this field should be, but gained during studies, it all depends on experience. Lucky is the one who on his way knows someone who can serve him help and support of the manager, show the way and different points of view, direct and help. If you want to go this route alone, we run the risk of a series of defeats from lack of experience."

 T - Considering the fact that generally a relevant number of global brands have restructured their creative directors, what is or what are the elements, the skills that a young designer must have to establish a brand, develop a distribution network and to gather a group of clients that allow the brand to grow professionally?

 KS- "Creating a brand is a long process, a several years of hard work. If the designer has a number of extra skills besides design and talent, it is easier to get to a certain stage of development of the brand,

Then it is necessary to let other people join you with other visions and a strategic approach such as marketing, logistics, production and promotion.

Otherwise, the brand will stop its growth. Young designers need to know what to design and for whom, who is the target customer, what are the costs of production and what a revenue model is.

It i as much important as creating beautiful products."

T – What are the base lines of your SS14? Who do you had in mind when you design it? 

 "It's a... somehow an homage to Chuck Yeager, a US AIr Force brilliant pilot and general,  the first man who broke the sound barrier.

YEAGER collection started with the natural instinct of mankind to explore new ways, the unexplored, the not yet known and mysterious, a deep thought about that abstract desire that has been with us since the beginning of our existence.

Mr Chuck Yeager is the human factor that represents all of that.

Inspiration in this case led me among light shades of blue and sapphire, ashy colours of moon dust, bright and neon details achieving the sporty element.

However, the whole is sparkling with cold silver of tens of press studs and rivets which, just like screws in vehicle bodies, consolidate and complete each model.

© ARQUIVO MODALISBOA / FOTOGRAFIA RUI VASCO, (Mr Sobczyk, guest designer of the 41st edition of Modalisboa, EVER.NOW)

T -And for Winter? What can you tell us about?

KS- "It's common to say that one image is as valid as 1000 words, let's see if it works with an exclusive illustration for TWISSST :)

I can also say, it will be strong, innovative, sharp and will redefine the brands's DNA keeping our essence." 

T - You do mix some female pieces in your collections, can we expect a full womenswear collection any time soon? Maybe an accessories line?

KS- "I am in the process of creating a line for women,  I hope that we will also create accessories and leather bags, but for the moment this is as much as can tell you ;)."

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WE KINDLY THANK MR SOBCZYK FOR HIS TIME AND DEDICATION. 

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I LOVE TWISSST- BY MR MARKUS RIVA

Mr Markus Riva, is a truly Rock Star.

Besides that he is also a singer, songwriter, producer, an actor, model, video director…and a TWISSST lover.

Despite its young age, Mr Riva, based in Riga, Latvia, has built a reputation among creativity, music and fashion.

One of the 2014 Eurovision Latvian candidates, has just a few days go, awarded for the 3rd time in 3 years as the best dressed male singer in Latvian Style & Fashion Awards.

Latvian Style & Fashion Awards, Mr Markus Riva in TOM REBL

But there is much more than the eye can reach.

Mr Riva is quite a genuine person, talented, friendly and warm.

If you cross him around the corner say hi, he most probably blushes, but he certainly replies to you.

In the meantime, find out more about Mr Riva on...

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PEDRO PEDRO - Pre Fall 2014 Campaign- The Portuguese Nonchalant

The Pre-Fall 14 Campaign of Pedro Pedro is, actually, quite more than that.

It's an endorsement on life style, it's an endorsement on sophistication, on modernity, a genuine nonchalant attitude and a faithful portrait of the brand.

Looking back in time, each collection has worked as another piece in the puzzle, a stepping evolution, a growing process, whispering instead of shouting has been the scissor of Pedro Pedro along the way.

But the girl is now a women, and Pedro has grown side by side with its muse, creating a new wardrobe with a cinematic breath.

But the codes are here as they were before.

The softness of the fabrics, its easiness, comfort & tactilness, its democratic approach on volumes and shapes were reinterpreted with a modern twist adding some touches of gold that felt new and... beyond modern.

Metallic Leather Jackets, long coats in this occasion more close to the body than the previous season, wools and cashmeres , slightly oversized silky embroidered shirts and dresses as well as a new shoe collection created and developed in cooperation with the portuguese shoe brand Basilius, completes a full wardrobe of desirable and luxurious pieces of clothe created for a young urban-y bourgeoisie women who exercises uniqueness and singularity 24/7.

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