Warp Threads

Appreciating the future in style.

[worldcatlas]

DS9: Emissary (Part 2)

Read part 1 here. This is the last article wrapping up two-part episodes, which will be in a single article from here on out. Thank you for reading!

Part two of Deep Space 9’s pilot episode opens in Ops, giving us several lovely close-ups of Major Kira’s uniform, including her Bajoran-style comm badge and belt. The badge appears to be made of a brassy metal material, and is in the shape of the Bajoran logo, much like its Starfleet counterpart. The belt, in a deep burgundy colour that matches her uniform, has a texture that suggests reptilian leather (or, perhaps, a replicated substitute). We can also see in this early episode that Kira’s makeup originally included a slight brow ridge, like Ensign Ro.

I guess they still have cosmetic surgery in the 24th century.

Odo beams into Ops to join the team, briefly giving us a full head-to-toe view of the goo he has shaped into a brownish-beige Bajoran uniform. My favourite part are the Uggs boots. Do all the Bajoran uniforms come with little booties? They’re not particularly intimidating for the Chief of Security, although they do look like they’d be great for someone on their feet all day.

Fighting crime in comfort.

We can also see in this scene that the costume department has decided to flare out the lapels on the Starfleet uniforms; I actually don’t remember if this trend continues into future episodes of DS9, but the same uniforms lay flat on Voyager (which hadn’t yet premiered at this point), so we’ll check back in on that. It’s an interesting styling choice, and kind of makes Bashir and O’Brien look like they’re hitting the club after work.

I mean, I guess I don’t know that they aren’t…

Inside the wormhole, Sisko converses with the locals through his memories, and we see the aliens speak to him through various characters. Among them are Locutus in his full Borg makeup and Kai Opaka in elaborate Bajoran religious garb. We saw Opaka in this outfit in part 1, although it looks like they may have draped the outermost layer differently here.

It’s hard to tell what’s changed through the Memory Haze™.

The aliens also take on the appearance of the Chicago Cubs in old-timey uniforms – worn by fictional holodeck characters – and Sisko’s former crew in a TNG-era look. The baseball uniforms will show up again in Deep Space 9, but I suspect the Starfleet uniforms are recycled directly from The Next Generation, giving them a nice on-screen send-off before retirement.

These are all core memories for Sisko.

Back on the station, we get a better look at Major Kira’s Bajoran earring as she jumps on a subspace call with her #1 fan, Gul Dukat. The jewelry is made of a silver metal, with lower and upper pieces connected by a fine chain.

It channels her pagh, as well as six stations of FM radio.

Dukat, of course, shows up wearing the same thing Cardassians always wear, made out of old recycled tires.

It’s actually very eco-friendly.

Going back to Benjamin, we finally get some new costumes as Sisko finds himself snuggling his dead wife. Well, one of the aliens inhabiting the memory of his dead wife. They’re dressed for a lovely picnic in the park, Ben in a striped jewel tone shirt, Jennifer in an elegant pink dress.

Does this human look good on me?

We can see that the fabric on the top section of Sisko’s shirt has been pleated and pressed flat before being sewn, a trick that seems to be used a lot in Star Trek to create more exotic and visually interesting looks from regular Earth textiles. In this case, it complements the fabric’s vertical stripes nicely. The shirt also has a geometric neckline with a notch in front, giving just a little flirty peek of chest. As we zoom out, we can see it has been paired with an extremely high-waisted pair of olive green pants. From this angle, we can also see that Jennifer’s silky-looking dress tapers at the waist, and has been paired with matching tights and shoes. It’s an adorable look somewhere between “prom queen” and “dance recital.”

This is what it looks like when you can just beam to a picnic site instead of hiking.

In a scene that’s no doubt just as pleasing to our Commander, we next see him in the memory of a holodeck baseball game, wearing a baseball mitt and cap, while an alien inhabits the image of his son (dressed in a catcher’s uniform) nearby.

Is this going to become a theme, Dad?

In an incredible bit of attention to detail, even the background actors in this scene appear to be dressed in period-appropriate suits and hats. Then again, it’s very possible Paramount already had these costumes in the back, and they were among the few outfits they DIDN’T need to make custom for this episode.

Look, son: normies.

Back on the station, Cardassians have begun to attack, meaning we get to see a crowd of evacuating civilians in one-colour co-ords. Among them is the real Jake Sisko, who isn’t sure about all the monochrome matching.

It just doesn’t feel appropriate for the season.

Also present is– what the? What the heck is this guy?! I don’t even know what this alien is, but it has a cute hooded blue dress. If anyone recognizes this species, please leave a comment with the ID!

Is it visiting from the Star Wars universe?

We finish out the episode – at least in terms of costumes – with a fantastic showing from Quark. He hasn’t changed since part 1, but we do get a better view of the details of his outfit, including the giant, spherical, shiny buttons on his jacket, which may actually be small doorknobs. The jacket also features sparkly black bands around both arms and wide lapels that flare open dramatically. Like Sisko earlier, he finishes the outfit with olive green pants pulled up as high as they’ll go.

The Ferengi who invents belts will be drowning in latinum.

—

The Costume Designer for this episode was Robert Blackman. The Wardrobe Supervisor was Carol Kunz. Key Costumers include Maurice Palinski, Phyllis Corcoran-Woods, Jerry Bono, and Patti Borggrebe-Taylor.

[worldcatlas]

Star Trek: The Motion Picture (part 2)

We’re back to the big screen to finish up Star Trek: The Motion Picture, and discover even more exciting shades of beige.

In part one, I skipped over a brief appearance by the Klingons because you can barely see them, but with a bit of photo editing, we can take a closer look.

Why are their bridges so dark? Do targs have sensitive eyes?

Interestingly, they wear a style of uniform we would later see in TNG and beyond – all grey leather and metal studs – rather than the “sparkly sweater vest” uniforms Klingons usually wore in the original series. Although it’s a significant and unexplained departure from their small-screen appearance, I have to say, it’s a lot easier to take these Klingons seriously.

Remember these guys? Star Trek wants you to forget.

I also skipped over a brief appearance by a lil’ guy in a space suit, but we’ll get back to this costume later.

You just float there for now.

Picking up where we left off, Kirk steps off a shuttle sporting a handsome new uniform in slimming charcoal grey and white. It maintains the gold rank braids on the cuffs from the original series uniforms, but adds a futuristic belt, military-style shoulder marks, and a solid metal Starfleet badge. A stiff, quilted collar adds a touch of “space suit,” as well. All in all, a very sleek space-age outfit that feels like a solid upgrade to the brightly-coloured sweaters of TOS.

I can’t wait to see how everyone else looks in this cool new uniform! 

We also get a momentary, blurry glimpse of some excellent-looking Vulcan robes in black and gold, but once again, this beautiful costume barely gets a moment of screentime before being whisked away.

He had to hurry off to fix his eyebrows, I get it.

So… as it turns out, only admirals get the cool new penguin uniform, and everyone else is stuck with space scrubs. They don’t even get a metal badge (not even hard-working Scotty!), just an embroidered patch with a silver Starfleet delta against a coloured circle indicating the wearer’s department.

At least he gets the cool belt.

Up on the bridge of the Enterprise, It’s a full-on Situation Beige. Crewmen buzz around the bridge in every imaginable shade of white, off-white, tan, taupe, and ecru, blending in nicely with the bulkheads.

Fashion crimes notwithstanding, I think there’s also an OSHA violation or two going on here…

Not even Uhura is immune to unflattering shades of khaki, although she does give us a quick glimpse at the Apple Watch-like wrist communicator worn throughout the film. It’s a great accessory that would unfortunately be rendered obsolete by the comm badge as the franchise moved on.

This woman deserves fashion, dammit!

Chekov, Sulu, and other crewmen model a few interesting variations on the theme, including a tight-fitting polo, a standard crew neck, and an awkwardly-tailored sport coat that can’t possibly be regulation.

You know, for uniforms, they’re not very… uniform.

While others, like Commander Decker, enjoy tight-fitting jumpsuits in the beige-est possible shade of blue. Somehow, I just don’t get a sense of authority from a man who looks like he’s been vacuum-sealed inside his footie pajamas.

Oh boy, you can see Commander Decker’s whole entire Commander Decker.

Next, we are treated to a great crowd shot that really shows off the scope of the costume department’s efforts, with dozens of varied uniforms packed into the scene. It makes me feel a little bad for going after the colour palette so hard, considering the difficulty of coordinating so many pieces.

Then again, it really is giving “thermal underwear in space.”

There are a few noteworthy variations in the crowd, including the guy with an uncovered electrical socket in the front row, but my favourite is probably this Native American officer with cool beaded accessories.

Chakotay could learn a thing or two.

The next character to make their big screen debut is the ship’s doctor, Leisure Suit Larry Dr. McCoy, in a fly as hell, disco-ready outfit, complete with gold chain, oversized belt buckle, and a frankly criminal amount of chest hair. And let’s not even talk about the beard. Thankfully, the good doctor soon cleans up and changes into uniform.

Still too much chest hair.

Next, we pay a visit to engineering to see Scotty, who has gotten a significant costume upgrade. Along with his fellow warp core enthusiasts, Mr. Scott sports a heavy-duty, protective-looking white suit with a strange socket (or antennae?) on the chest, surrounded by concentric circles of padded fabric that really make you wanna plug something in there. Oddly, the costumes also feature black rubber collars that presumably attach to their matching helmets, but do not appear at all sealed to the body of the suit.

They’re air-tight…ish.

Fortunately, the suits also include a handy, built-in to-do list.

Memory aids can be helpful for a… mature crew.

Last but not least, the old gang is finally back together as Spock joins the crew, feeling absolutely no emotion about how slick he looks in these long-sleeved Vulcan robes. I love the matching grey tones between the high-collared shirt underneath and the embroidered Vulcan script on the outer garment (though I’m sure this was a purely logical choice).

It says “zip up here.”

Sadly, Spock is quick to follow protocol and changes into a Starfleet uniform as well. However, he does keep the collared undershirt, creating an ensemble that – in a nice nod to TOS – closely resembles his old uniform.

Spock appreciates consistency.

Uhura has also gotten a costume change, and although they still won’t let her out of Beige Hell, she has at least gotten a smart two-piece pant suit that looks a little more comfortable. In addition to being more flattering, this uniform also includes the gold rank braids at the wrists.

Maybe the replicators in the 2270s only have one colour of ink.

Some plot happens, and the ship’s navigator, Ilia, gets hijacked by an alien entity. After briefly experimenting with no costume, she manifests this wild sci-fi bath robe with a huge Dracula collar. The asymmetrical hemline is super cute, but the belt at the waist could be a bit higher and more fitted. I do like how the pink lining inside the collar complements the robo-transmitter implanted in her collarbone.

The bad news: an alien has taken over your body. The good news: they put on a cute fit~

The back of the collar is a nice touch as well, tapering into a heart shape that flatters the actress’ perfectly-shaped head.

So smooth.

On the other hand, I cannot agree with V’ger’s choice of psychically-manifested footwear for this outfit. Clear plastic high heels might look futuristic, but they’re completely impractical for walking through a ship with perforated deck plating, running through sandy-floored caves, or standing near a warp core without melting.

At the other end of practicality, we are introduced to some members of the ship’s security team, who are inexplicably dressed like old-timey football players. They sport shiny helmets, phaser holsters, and crotch-protecting armour in a lovely chocolate brown. While it does break up the beige, it feels a bit silly to see combat guys ready to rumble on a Starfleet vessel.

I think they saw what the Klingons were wearing and got jealous.

Deciding to accessorize, V’ger tries on a headband belonging to her host. It’s a lovely beaded and sequined piece, with a gold charm dangling at one side, and very nearly reminds the navigator who she used to be.

Does this accessory clash with my parasitic control of another sentient being?

Things are getting intense story-wise, and Spock suits up in a shiny red “thruster suit” to take care of business – that is, an EV suit painted safety orange and strapped onto a rocket that looks like it was built with spare kitchen utensils. The whole ensemble is incredibly bulky, but believably looks like a rocket-belt-type contraption that might’ve existed in the 1970s.

Do what you have to do, Spock, but I’ll need my colander back before dinner.

We’re treated to a close-up on the suit’s gloves as Spock pilots the contraption, revealing plenty of details, including more structural quilting. I like the raised details along each finger on the gloves, implying some kind of built-in system, perhaps heating or robotic assistance. The frame of the thruster suit (painted beige) contains a control panel, with buttons on every surface. This segment detaches from the suit itself, so there are also buttons built into the left sleeve.

One for lemonade, one for ice, and one for diet Romulan ale.

We also get a good look at the back of the suit without the rocket attachment when Spock mind melds with V’ger, revealing more quilted details, including some hilarious concentric squares on the butt. From this angle, the suit is mostly the work of the prop department, who have done an excellent job making the hardware look both hi-tech and capable of playing Betamax tapes.

I think my Grandma had one of those on top the TV.

Kirk comes thrusting to the rescue in his own suit, and soon Spock is whisked away to Sick Bay for another costume change. I think this is meant to be a futuristic hospital gown, but it really looks like they’ve just wrapped the sheets around his legs and pinned them in place with binder clips.

In case the doctors need quick access to his thighs.

On the other hand, the sleeveless top is a whole look, and I love the hood with contrasting orange lining.

Not gonna lie, I’d wear it.

As a bonus, Doctors McCoy and Chapel have evolved into their final form: an all-white medical uniform with an oddly rounded collar, shoulder marks, and – notably – a rod of Asclepius embroidered on the left breast, in lieu of a Starfleet delta.

Missing a couple buttons there, Doc?

In the climactic finale, our brave crew suits up for one last away mission in suede jackets, taking advantage of the material’s natural beige hue. Unusual for Trek, they appear to have several large, prominent pockets – but any unease is quickly dispelled by the reassuring presence of decorative quilting along the arms. Speaking of which, the left arm of each jacket bears a reflective stripe that, curiously, does not seem to indicate rank or department, as Spock alone has a red armband.

Fascinating.

With little to differentiate their outfits, Decker decides to accessorize with dramatic lighting and sparkles. Lots of sparkles. Met-Gala-rolled-in-a-Michaels level of sparkles, a.k.a. the correct amount for any outfit. And with that, the Earth is saved.

What was the point of the film again?

[worldcatlas]

VOY: Caretaker (Part 2)

The Star Trek universe is a long road, so to keep things moving along home, I’ve decided to no longer split up 2-part episodes and films. This is the first of three posts that will wrap up Caretaker, Emissary, and ST: The Motion Picture. 

Part two of Voyager’s pilot episode brings new excitement, new troubles, and new characters.

Are all Talaxians this… eccentric?

When we first meet Neelix, he’s scraping out a living as a junk trader, clad in a fur coat that appears to be made up of several different alien mammals, over a confusingly-patchwork shirt (or harness? Or space lederhosen??) with metallic gold accents. It’s an appropriately mottled look for his line of work, although it definitely looks like it smells weird.

Is that me or you, Mr. Vulcan?

However, we don’t get to spend much time with this outfit, as Janeway invites the Talaxian aboard, and Neelix is quick to take advantage of Voyager’s facilities – including the replicator. After asking Tuvok if it will make him a Starfleet uniform (“it most certainly will not”), we beam down to the Ocampan planet below to see that Neelix has chosen a suit made of old bus station upholstery. 

At first, I thought this outfit was both too beige and too chaotic, but the more I look, the more I like it. It actually kind of works with his Talaxian mohawk and spots, and I love that the fabric is just as garish and patchwork-looking as his “junk collector” outfit.. Also, the overwhelming impression of beige may just be due to this planet’s extremely yellow lens filter atmosphere.

The colour palette is “waiting room neutral”.

The structure of the outfit is interesting, too. Chunky piping across the midsection creates some nice, futuristic asymmetry, and I love that it continues down the one sleeve in rings. Neelix goes on to knock it out of the park with a matching teal shirt (you can just see the collar peeking out above) and shoes.

This is a man who knows how to coordinate.

Next, it’s time for another new species in the Delta Quadrant: the Kazon! As we get a wide shot of the group of Kazon Ogla, we can immediately see a lot of cream and ochre tones, cut off sleeves, and a single hairstyle that everybody has to share.

And no girls allowed.

It’s actually an incredible number of unique-but-coordinated costumes. You immediately get the impression that these guys are a rowdy bunch who aren’t afraid to get their asymmetrical skirts dirty proving who has the most testosterone. As well, everybody looks great in warm earth tones.

I guess it’s not hard to shop when every single member of your species is an autumn.

Somebody needs to tell them all the belts and gloves are a bit much though.

We just like to feel secure, okay?

Kes also makes her debut in this scene, but she’s basically wearing a dirty potato sack, so we’ll skip ahead. Like her lover Neelix, she’s quick to accept the Voyager crew’s hospitality, and replicates a new set of duds the moment she’s on board. Interestingly, she opts for a very Kazon colour palette.

Now who’s asymmetrical??

It’s a killer look – layered, colourful, a little bit alien, but also cute. The one-shoulder bodycon tunic is sexy, but the neckline and legs are very modestly covered. Kes is basically Twiggy as a telepathic space elf. As a child watching Star Trek in the 90s, I remember noticing Jennifer Lien’s costumes as Kes more than anything else in the show, and I still aspire to this aesthetic.

I only noticed how gay I was later.

There’s also a lot of variation in textures here, between the crinkled summer cotton and contrasting velveteen, which we’ll soon see is the style of the Ocampa. What? Oh right! Our people are still missing! Back down to the planet we go. 

The underground Ocampa lean toward earth tones – although, would they call them that? – befitting their simple, horticultural lifestyle. Like Kes, their outfits are layered and multi-textured.

The Caretaker provides everything we need. Linen, tweed, corduroy…

Unless you’re a bad guy, in which case you wear grey, unflattering robes and a scarf (poorly).

The Ocampan equivalent of sweats and a gym tee.

We also get a really good look at Chakotay’s Maquis outfit in this scene, which will sadly soon be replaced by a Starfleet uniform for good. It’s a shame, as it looks like someone spent a lot of time working on that leather vest, with its hand-stitched details and tailored fit.

Do you think he brought the holster from home?

Speaking of Maquis drip, B’Elanna has some INSANE boots that we only get to see for a split second as she swings her legs off a bio-bed in sick bay. The whole outfit is absolutely deadly, but I would do anything to see these boots show up in more episodes.

Surely we can make a uniform exception?

With all the loose ends neatly wrapped up, it’s time for the Voyager crew (and new additions) to start the long trek home. But before we can warp away, Neelix and Kes run to tell Janeway something very important – that they’ve replicated more new clothes.

The bridge is basically a common area, right?

Kes sports an olive green tunic with slashed shoulders that allow the poofy sleeves of a shirt underneath to poke through, over jade green leggings and matching heels. It’s another cute look, and even more elfin than before, but I think the red-and-orange outfit was more flattering. Neelix has another matching pants and jacket set made out of the ugliest fabric possible, though with an interesting front closure swooping off to one side. Beneath the jacket is a very handsome red shirt, with a sort of kimono-like layered appearance.

Slow your pace a bit, guys, we’ve got 70,000 lightyears to go.

—

The Costume Designer for this episode was Robert Blackman.  Wardrobe Supervisor: Carol Kunz Key Costumers: Tom Siegel, Camille Argus, Matt Hoffman, Jamie Thomas

[worldcatlas]

SNW: Children of the Comet

Spoiler warning: some!

We’ve got a promising start right out of the gate on Strange New Worlds episode two, with some cool-looking aliens on a desert planet in full head-to-toe costumes. This is what I come here for.

Peak sci-fi.

Both aliens wear full-length robes in shades of orangey-brown, with structured hoods that may or may not have built-in hats. The taller alien wears a robe that appears to be made of wool felt or another heavy natural fabric, cut and layered in looping twists that give it an interesting, organic appearance. On the right, the smaller alien wears simpler, lighter robes, but with a beautiful beaded tabard that covers their chest and shoulders and trails all the way down to the ground, creating a similarly “busy” look. Both outfits give the impression of being lovingly handmade by people who haven’t invented replicators yet.

Oh yeah, the computer could whip that up in about ten seconds flat.

However, we only get a brief glimpse of our new friends before the story moves up to the Enterprise, where Cadet Uhura has been invited to dinner in the captain’s cabin. Of course, this can only mean one thing: full dress uniform. Right? 

As Uhura narrates in the turbolift, we can see her standard issue formal wear consists of a jacket with a surprisingly 24th-century-style band of colour across the shoulders. This is bordered by a strip of black fabric and a thin line of gold piping, above a tasteful charcoal grey for the rest of the body and sleeves. The matching trousers are also grey, with another stripe of division colour down the leg.

The Starfleet equivalent of a tux and bow tie.

…all of which makes her look mighty silly when Lieutenant Ortegas reveals the dress code is “BBQ casual.” Which is also great, as we get to see Erica’s adorable midriff-baring athleisure look.

Dude. WTH??

Fortunately, Captain Pike isn’t bothered, having perfected his own “Grill Dad” aesthetic for the occasion. He welcomes the ladies in a muscle-hugging blue sweater, worn beneath a dark grey apron that somehow also looks tailored to his physique.

Seriously, sir, please get those delts under control.

As dinner goes on, we get a better look at the details on the dress uniform. The red fabric on Uhura’s jacket is decorated with tiny Starfleet deltas, and we can see that the collar is made of a ribbed fabric, which is a bit of an interesting choice for a formal garment. We also get a good look at her gorgeous gold sunbeam earrings, which coordinate nicely with the gold piping and combadge.

Sorry, I’m an autumn, does the uniform come in rose gold?

Finally, we never get a good view of the whole ensemble, but Nurse Chapel’s sleeveless top and joggers are my favourite look of the evening. I initially thought this was another jumpsuit, with the high neck and chunky zipper down the front, but no, just a very cool shirt and pants. I love the monochrome palette for a “future-casual” look, especially with Chapel’s platinum hair.

I am hereby starting a petition for casual Fridays on the Enterprise.

Next, the costume and prop departments join together like Tuvix as our heroes change into EV suits for an away mission. We get a great look at these heavily-accessorized costumes as Spock, Uhura, La’an, and Kirk (not that one) heroically slow-walk toward the camera. Like the other uniforms, the EV suits indicate the wearer’s department by colour, here on the front panel in the middle of the chest. Each suit appears sculpted and tailored to the wearer, which is probably no sweat in the 23rd century, but certainly represents an impressive amount of work in the 21st.

Do they have to keep those stocked in every colour? What if an away mission is all blue guys? I have questions.

Sidebar, as Nurse Chapel helps the away team prepare, we can see Spock is sporting some absolutely WILD sideburns in this episode.

It’s okay, she thinks they’re cute.

The EV suits also include these strappy thigh holsters for a phaser, which are weirdly military-ish for a Definitely Not Military organization like Starfleet. I would be curious to know how much of the design is influenced by the need for modern TV to be Cool And Sexy.

Starfleet got their gear this year from a police auction.

The overall design of the suits is very sleek, with lots of little details that add polish, like the LED lights on the chest and Batman-esque tool belts. Even the combadge is a metal disc built in to the front panel. These elements really sell them as functional space suits, which is… a bit of a problem, as they look centuries beyond anything the 1701 had by Kirk’s time.

Somehow, they got a downgrade along the way. (Image from TOS “The Naked Time”)

Oh, and they have jetpacks. Obviously.

Obviously.

The episode ties up with our pals back in the desert, allowing us a closer look at the wonderful materials work here. With the hoods down, the costumes’ built-in hats seem to have disappeared, which is fine because we get to see the adult alien’s cool dinosaur head. If you look closely, her shirt has a notch at the back of the collar to account for the spines.

Maybe the head spikes explain the shredded fabric too…

Overall, I really enjoyed the contrast in this episode between the perfectly-replicated clean lines of the Starfleet uniforms and these natural, organic-looking garments that are full of detail and movement. It feels rare to see something like this in a world of angular, sterile starships, and – although I love metallic fabric more than life itself – it’s refreshing.

Refreshing like space rain on an alien desert.

On the other hand, colour is nice too, and these guys are still in the Brown Age. I think I’ll stick with the replicator.

Crew credits: The Costume Supervisor on this episode was Karen Lee,  the Costume Consultant was Gersha Phillips, and the Assistant Costume Designers were Sarah Goodwin, Heather English, and Emily Jasper.

[worldcatlas]

VOY: Caretaker (Part 1)

Just like its predecessor, Deep Space Nine, Voyager opens with an expository text crawl explaining the current galactic situation. We learn about the Maquis – a plucky, non-Federation rebel group fighting the Cardassian occupation – then jump right into a heated space battle!

Fire! Raise shields! And somebody turn off that damned smoke machine!

As one would expect from a ragtag group of resourceful underdogs, the Maquis wear mismatched outfits made for trouble; we’re introduced to Chakotay and B’Elanna, both sporting rolled-up sleeves and tough leather vests.

Forearms mean business.

Tuvok is here too, although we don’t get a good look at his outfit from any of the angles in this scene. Chakotay makes up for it, however, by giving us a bit of a catwalk look at his duds: the patterned shirt is lovely, and probably meant to evoke his Native American heritage.

Actually, this may be the least problematic reference to his “heritage.”

Next, we’re taken to a sunny, verdant New Zealand penal colony, where Captain Janeway is busy picking out a boy toy. Unsurprisingly, we’re working with the same Starfleet uniforms currently in use on DS9, with a coloured section on the shoulders indicating department, and a grey turtleneck with rank pips underneath.

Get used to it – Voyager won’t be receiving wardrobe updates for about the next seven years.

Janeway finds the man she’s looking for – the boyishly handsome Nick Locarno Tom Paris – and hands him a “get out of jail free” card in the form of an invitation to join her crew. Tom considers her offer, weighing the excitement of adventure against having to give up his stylish prison coverall; the garment is concrete grey, with subtle shade differences across the chest and shoulders, not unlike a Starfleet uniform. I appreciate the asymmetry of the dark grey extending down the left sleeve, but not the right. The flap closure at the front is a little bit sexy, too, and along with the rolled-up sleeves, gives a “greasemonkey” vibe we’ll come to see a lot of from Tom.

The ankle monitor makes a nice accessory, too.

Meanwhile, Voyager is docked at Deep Space Nine, and we cut to a character we all know and love: Quark! …In the process of ripping off young Harry Kim. Although Quark’s ensemble technically belongs to another show, I still have to award it “best outfit” for the episode. The matching teal hues in the pants, shirt, and jacket is a beautiful bit of coordination, and it’s obvious the costume department has had a few seasons to perfect the character design. It’s not unusual for a Ferengi to dress so lavishly, but Harry should probably take it as a warning sign that he’s about to be ripped off. 

I’m sure he’ll be fine.

Up on the ship, Janeway has a chat with her fiancé Mark, who’s sporting a handsome wool-looking jacket in a dark mustard colour. Mark only gets about six lines and thirty seconds of screen time, so his outfit has to really pull its weight here building a character: handsome but approachable, smart but unpretentious, still shops at GAP in his 50s.

Sensible. I meant sensible.

There are no new costumes for a while as we meet the ship and crew, but we do get a few nice close-ups of Janeway’s lovely, elaborate updo – a more complicated style than the “bun of steel” she’ll wear in coming episodes.

Ignore the wig glue. It’s just… space sweat.

I suspect the stylist wanted all those extra swirlies in there because, once the action begins and our crew gets roughed up a bit, Action-Tousled Janeway looks amazing.

Slay, girl.

Harry and Tom go to sickbay, which is going to be full of patients very soon, and is also on fire. It’s hard to get a good look, but Harry puts on a cool Starfleet-issue oven mitt with metallic fabric to extinguish the fire.

Was that hole always there?

The least visible costume prop of all time.

In all the commotion, the crew realizes they’ve been zooped across the galaxy – 75,000 lightyears from home. But just when you thought we’d be stuck on a spaceship with one set of clothes for the next seventy years, we’re zooped again… to a southern country farm?! It looks exactly like Earth, and what looks like a perfectly human grandma comes out with cookies and lemonade to greet Janeway and co.

Floral fabric, ivory cameo, plate of cookies… yep, that’s a grandma.

She’s not alone, and soon the farm is full of completely “normal” “humans” having a good time, dancing and playing music. It’s literally the friendliest alien welcome party in history, but the Voyager crew are spooked. Moreover, they seem confused by the folksy straw hats and denim overalls.

Highly suspicious flannel.

With one exception: Tom Paris has quickly made friends with one of the illusory farm girls, a young woman in a cute printed dress with a belt, mary janes, and bright white ankle socks.

First contact: cottagecore edition.

However, Paris’ new friend gets a bit upset when they turn down her extremely tempting offers of a “real private” root cellar, a duck pond, and deviled eggs, and suddenly the farm folk aren’t so welcoming. The crew is zooped back to the ship – mostly. Harry Kim is missing.

Get outta here! And take your synthetic fabrics with you!

Discovering a similar absence on the Maquis ship – B’Elanna is also missing – the two crews decide to work together to track down their people.

As they discuss plans, we finally get a good look at Tuvok’s Maquis disguise: he wears a cropped, open jacket made from a textured brown-green fabric, with sleeves in a lovely deep blue. The trim between the different fabrics is subtly shiny, giving the impression of leather straps. More importantly though, he wears an orange shirt underneath that appears to be stained at the collar – is that greenish hue Vulcan blood??

What happened to you in the Maquis, Tuvok?!

The episode isn’t out of costumes for us yet, though, and it’s a hard pivot from the dirty, worn-in clothes of the Maquis – as the viewpoint switches to that of our missing crewmembers, we find them in white clothing that resembles hospital gowns, albeit with an awkward strap closure that goes all the way around the back.

You know that strap has come undone and dipped in the toilet at LEAST once.

We also get our first look at the Ocampa, who at the moment are also clad in white, gauzy outfits. Unlike the “patients,” they wear strange fruit-netting-ish infinity scarves around their neck and head.

Keeps their melon safe.

The mesh fabric looks like it might be some kind of protective gear, but no, as we explore more of the compound, we see the truth: Ocampans just don’t know how to wear a scarf.

So close…

[worldcatlas]

PIC: Maps and Legends

Warning: This article contains spoilers for Star Trek: Picard.

It’s First Contact Day at the Utopia Planitia ship yards orbiting Mars, 14 years in the past. Surely an arbitrary date and nothing to worry about, right? On a completely unrelated note, this is before the ban on synths (some might say immediately before), so we get to see some robot friends at work. They wear identical red uniforms, made with a heavy red fabric, gloves, and long sleeves, indicating protective wear – sensible for shipyard workers! The matching red belts look sharp, too.

Did… did you guys all have your eyes open before I opened the door?

The human workers wear the same uniform, with the addition of comm badges and hard hats. Unfortunately, dressing the same as their constructed colleagues doesn’t make them friends, and some of the humans are blatantly droid-phobic.

Out here, we gotta make our own prejudices.

Which, on reflection, may be a way to soften the blow when the android F8 goes rogue and brutally murders them all with laser tools – including the armoured security officers, whose laser-tag-looking uniforms we barely get to see before they’re also on the ground. 

You might say it was… a F8 worse than death.

We jump back to the present (i.e, the future), where Laris, Zhaban, and Picard are discussing the Zhat Vash – the Romulan super secret police. On closer inspection, however, the conversation appears to be a pretense for Laris and JL to have yet another Best Sweater competition.

It’s giving seasonal, classic, and understated.

Two sweaters is not against the rules, and that’s bonus points for asymmetry. I think we have our winner.

Over in the B story, I hope you wanted more jumpsuits! The researchers aboard “The Artifact” (a name that is somehow just as scary as saying it’s a Borg cube) wear a tasteful light grey, which isn’t quite as cool as red, and the big downturned collars make me miss the turtleneck look back at Mars. Basically, they’re the same uniforms from earlier, but slightly worse in every way.

They just used “silhouette B” on the McCall’s pattern.

One researcher who does pull it off, however, is Dr. Soji Asha, who looks a lot like Dahj from episode 1…! We get some nice detail shots, and I actually really like how the collar looks open like this with her necklace underneath.

Stylish AND hiding plot-critical accessories. Okay, I’m coming back around on the grey jumpsuit.

Back at the château, Picard is visited by an old friend from the Stargazer. Dr. Moritz is clearly here on business, as he has worn his nicest silk shirt and a fancy long vest with intricate embroidered details. Unfortunately, his business is telling Picard some very bad news, so the sharp wardrobe barely softens the blow.

I’ll be honest with you, Jean-Luc: I look as good as your prognosis doesn’t.

Instead of sitting quietly with the news, or calling his family, or petting his dog, Picard instead decides to put on a nice suit of his own and go visit Starfleet HQ. He gets a very cute VISITOR badge from the baby at the front desk who doesn’t know who he is, and storms his way into the office of Admiral Clancy.

Quickly! I need a ship and a crew, but I don’t have time to explain the plot!

Clancy isn’t happy to see our hero, but at least she’s disappointed in a killer admiral’s uniform. The outer jacket is dark grey with the shoulders blocked out in black, with a sleek new comm badge on the wearer’s left, and a rank indicator on the right. The layer underneath bears the division colour – in this case, command red, in a nice burgundy hue. I kind of like how the red part looks like it drapes softly at the neck, though it also looks a tiny bit like a turtleneck that just got caught on the jacket when she was putting it on, and nobody has pointed it out yet.

What? Is there something on my face?

Back on the Borg cube, the researchers need additional PPE, so it’s time to don the Incredibly Flimsy Red Suits. Unlike the red onesies we saw at Utopia Planitia, these garments are made of a sheer, lightweight material that doesn’t really look like it will protect them from anything?? I’d guess radiation, but they also leave their heads completely exposed. Maybe it’s to protect from blood during dissection, although a gauzy, see-through fabric wouldn’t be my first choice of stain-shield.

Maybe Borgs can’t see red.

On the other hand, maybe we should stop asking questions and just listen to the Romulan overseer with the dorky haircut and overly complicated leather vest. He seems to be in charge.

The Nintendo Power Glove is a nice touch, too.

We need a break from all that intensity, so we check in on Picard and Dr. Jurati, who are having a nice cup of tea. Agnes wears not one but two tops with oddly angular collars, in a very flattering powder blue.

This is nice. No one dying, conniving, or being dissected.

Welp, back to business. The grouchy admiral from earlier tattles on Jean-Luc to Commodore Oh, who turns out to be a Romulan spy. Whoops! Her cover as a Vulcan Starfleet officer does, however, include this fantastic iteration of the early DS9/Voyager uniforms. 

The coloured top section now has a small notch in the middle of the chest, giving it a cool angular detail, but also belying the fact that these jackets never actually unzipped at the front. As well, a high collar has replaced the grey turtleneck, forcing the rank pips to relocate – like Admiral Clancy’s uniform, Oh’s rank is displayed on the right breast, opposite her comm badge. The overall effect really brings the Voyager-style costumes back from the brink of pyjamas, so that they’re believable as pseudo-military uniforms.

Oh, but also I’m totally upset about this betrayal.

As we know, Romulans love to gossip, and Oh can’t help telling her galpal “Lieutenant Rizzo” what Picard and pals are up to. Rizzo, a.k.a. Narissa, is not only another spy role-playing a Starfleet officer…

lol humans are so gullible

…But also sister to the dork-and-brooding Narek, so she goes to rub her new intel in his face. Narek, as usual, has shrouded himself in black, and also joined the “impractical zigzag collar” club. Shirts sure do look uncomfortable in the future!

I want to show off a bit of chest hair, but only in these three specific spots.

Meanwhile, Jean-Luc is trying to round out the party, so he grabs a bottle of Château Picard and goes to see Raffi. When we meet her, Raffi is rocking a Sarah Connor aesthetic in a cap and black tank top, drinking and space-vaping out on her own in the desert. She’s too cool, and her character design is fantastic.

10/10.

There’s something missing, though. It’s not quite futuristic. Too symmetrical.

Ah, there it is.

[worldcatlas]

DS9: Emissary (Part 1)

After an oddly Star Wars-esque text crawl, we meet Benjamin Sisko in a flashback to his time on the USS Saratoga, during the battle of Wolf 359. The ship is captained by a Vulcan named Storil, played by J.G. Hertzler, who would later come back to play the Klingon General Martok. Both are wearing TNG-style uniforms, and both are having a very bad day.

One of these characters is about to gain a tragic backstory, and it’s probably not the one we’ll never see again.

Oof. Thankfully, the plot fast forwards three years, and we see Sisko’s son Jake holo-fishing in some cute space overalls. The shirt appears to have an interesting texture, and the slightly darker fabric on the shoulders is a nice touch, with the double piping at the seams giving it just a hint of “space suit”.

You can eat whatever you catch, but it might leave you feeling a little… hollow.

Interestingly, this outfit would later find its way to the Delta quadrant, as we often see it worn by Rebi, one of the Borg twins in season 6 of Voyager.

Look, we all just want to be Super Mario in our hearts.

Next, it’s time to meet an old friend in a new uniform: it’s the universe’s favourite punching bag, Miles O’Brien! In contrast to the old uniforms, which displayed rank pips on a stiff collar, the new ones have a soft grey turtleneck under the jacket. As well, where the old uniforms had black shoulders and a coloured body and sleeves, the new ones are only coloured on top.

It saves on coloured ink in the replicator.

A tour of the dilapidated station wouldn’t be complete, of course, without a spooky Bajoran monk making ominous invitations, and Sisko is in luck! I love this look; the cowl and long sleeves convey religious modesty, while the asymmetry, exotic fabrics, and metallic accents give it a distinctly alien flair. Given the importance of Bajor to the plot of Deep Space Nine, it’s not surprising they’ve given this much care and attention to the Bajorans’ costume designs, but it’s still nice to see this level of detail on a one-off character.

He may be a harbinger of your cursed destiny, but he’s got his aesthetic locked down.

Speaking of Bajorans, we soon meet a very angry Major Kira in the uniform of the Bajoran militia. We’ll see different earth-toned variations around the station, but Kira’s is a rusty orange colour, made with heavy corduroy and quilted fabric on the sleeves. It’s a nice contrast to the primary colours Starfleet brings to the table, while still using rank pips and a communicator on the chest.

What, do you want me to do a twirl?

Elsewhere on the station, some last-minute looters are causing trouble, and we get a quick look at Ferengi fashion. Nog wears a typical Ferengi headpiece with shimmering sequins, and Quark adorns himself in heavy, patterned fabrics.

Rule of Acquisition #47: Don't trust a man wearing a better suit than your own.

Even better is Nog’s partner in (literal) crime, an unnamed alien in an impressively monochrome outfit. The alien wears baggy pants and a cowl similar to the Bajorans’, but also carries a spiked flail on his belt. He also wears a leather-looking vest with a strange bar across the front, and heavy bracers and boots, all in varying shades of brown.

It probably works great as camouflage… outside of a space station.

The two are busted, however, when security chief Odo shows up to out-brown them all.

Don’t make me go all the way to beige.

On board the docked Enterprise, Sisko has a very tense meeting with Picard, who asks him if they’ve met – before realizing they have, kinda, when Jean-Luc sort of uh… murdered Ben’s wife in his Borg phase. Oops.

Haha awkwarddd

The final straw was Sisko’s realization that they’d worn the same outfit, so he returns to the station to change into something else.

New year, new you(niform).

He gets a fit check from his new pal Odo, who wears a slightly different uniform in this scene than the one we saw on the promenade. This version is yellower, which doesn’t do any favours for his complexion, especially since the makeup also seems to be, uh, droopier.

You good, Odo? Need some bucket time?

Of course, a good captain always gets the opinion of his second in command, so he goes to see Kira as well, who is hard at work cleaning up the mess left behind by the Cardassians. It’s sweaty work, so she has removed her uniform jacket, revealing a very lovely sleeveless blouse underneath.

Redefining high-waisted pants for the 24th century.

In a helpful bit of exposition, she explains to Sisko how the Bajoran religion is the only thing holding her people together, and we get a glimpse of her earring – an important symbol of her faith.

However, their heartfelt conversation is cut short when the ominous monk from earlier returns to tell Sisko, simply, “It’s time.” He’s too Starfleet-polite to say no, or “who the heck even are you,” so we find ourselves whisked away to a temple.

Welcome! Get comfortable. It won’t last long.

The monks here, too, do amazing things with robes, using the same layering as before in various colours and textures. We meet Kai Opaka, an important religious leader, who insists on showing Ben a magic box. Suddenly, we’re transported to a beach, and our stoic commander is wearing some extremely purple beachwear.

I need to stop saying “yes” to everyone.Once the shock wears off, Sisko realizes his dead wife Jennifer is here too, in a killer teal and gold bikini! This would be great, except she doesn’t know who he is, so he just kind of weirds her out a little.

Excuse me, you’re blocking the radiation.

Sisko is nothing if not determined, however, and as he pursues Jennifer down the beach, we get to see some interesting swimwear in the background, too. I dig the pattern on the left suit, and the guy on the right is a great example of the old Trek standby of “colour blocking = futuristic”.

My man looking like an early aughts DVD menu.

Just as Ben’s about to win Jennifer over with aubergine stew, we’re thrown back to the present. Fortunately, it’s a present where we have Dabo girls in metallic latex dresses.

We’re all winners at the Dabo table.

Not fashion related, but I’m 99% sure this alien is playing his instrument with two cucumbers.

…?!

Anyway.

Gul Dukat comes aboard the station to spread smugness, wearing armour consistent with the Cardassians’ last appearance on TNG, though considerably updated from their first appearance (pictured: TNG season 4 “The Wounded”).

Is it just me, or do all Cardassians look alike?

Don’t expect to get any great fashion inspo from these guys, though, as they never leave the house without their pointy black security blankets.

Seriously, these guys have one look.

Lastly, we get a good – if all too brief – look at the outfit worn by Morn, the chatty barfly often seen in Quark’s. He’s wearing what appear to be studded leather gauntlets, to match the sleeves/pauldrons(?) on his top, which is obviously just stretched tight over his rippling muscles.

Some folks are just built different.

[worldcatlas]

DISCO: Battle at the Binary Stars

Spoiler warning: This article spoils ALL the good bits of Discovery s1e02.

This episode picks up right where “The Vulcan Hello” left off – we’re still screwed – but quickly switches to a flashback, in which we see a much more Vulcan-looking Michael Burnham beaming aboard the Shenzhou for the first time. She has a dorky Vulcan haircut, and wears floor-length robes, as does her guardian, Count Sarek.

She also demonstrates a strong aptitude for Vulcan arrogance.

Back in the present, Klingon things happen, but no one has had time for a costume change just yet. Fortunately(?), a major hull breach renders Michael unconscious, giving us this excellent close-up on her uniform boot. It has two metal Starfleet insignia on the outside, and possibly a secret pocket.

Oh, she should probably get up though.

Up on the bridge, a holographic admiral swaggers briefly into the story, showing us the final uniform variant; the gold ribbed fabric seen on the shoulders of the captain’s uniform is here, too, but goes further past the shoulder seam. He also bears a unique Starfleet badge, one circled by golden laurels.

It’s important you know how important I am.

Predictably, the Klingons do something unspeakably messed up to his ship (not fashion related), and as they celebrate, we get some detailed close-ups on L’Rell. The “leather” of her outfit is a pearly pale white, much like her buddy Voq, and is also studded with the red gems and spikes seen on T’Kuvma’s armour.

If looks could kill (she wouldn’t get to use her bat’leth).

This queen does not yet know her own worth, however, and is only here for political reasons (a man). Nobody even seems to notice her matching accessory clip – so convenient! – with how jazzed they all are about killing a bunch of humans and bifurcating their ship.

Honey, you can do better.

The Federation doesn’t tolerate aggression, however, so Captain Georgio embarks on a murder spree to teach the Klingons a lesson. She and Michael equip Starfleet’s finest plot armour in preparation for beaming over to the enemy ship. This mainly consists of a kevlar-looking vest over their existing uniforms, with a lovely pewter-coloured medallion in place of the removable badge.

This will surely protect us from the huge, angry aliens with swords.

Unfortunately, it turns out that sending the most important officer on a ship on a violent away mission isn’t a guarantee for success, and the sporty mesh fabric proves insufficient.

How does this keep happening?

In a shocking twist, the episode ends with the main character facing consequences for her actions, and we’re visited once more by a panel of Starfleet admirals.

Really not helping your shadowy reputation there, guys.

Whoopsies!

[worldcatlas]

TNG: Encounter at Farpoint

Following Star Trek’s cancellation in 1969, fans demanded to be returned to their ship for nearly twenty years before The Next Generation hit the airwaves. With it, we got a new Enterprise, a new captain, and a whole new decade of fashion to space-ify.

Captain Jean-Luc Picard, in many ways the polar opposite of Kirk, shows off the uniform of a more civilized Starfleet: they’re stiffer and more tailored than their predecessors, neat and militaristic, with sharp lines and metallic accents. The first of which is, of course, the comm badge, now a functional (and highly futuristic) use of the Starfleet insignia. The other, metal pips at the collar to indicate rank.

A 24th century captain: Distinguished. Educated. French.

The uniform’s pants are still black, which creates a nice slimming effect with the bottom of the shirt. As well, the pant legs are slit at the hem where they meet the boot, allowing a jauntier gait when crossing one’s luxury sized bridge.

It’s strangely easy to imagine a musical number about to begin…

Hold on a minute, didn’t Command used to be gold?

Pictured: The audience, demanding an explanation

Yes! But in the 24th century, we’ve moved beyond valuing material things like gold, so it has been demoted from Command to Operations. Or something. Anyway, captain red now. Not to worry – old school fans of the show are reassured that this is still the Star Trek they remember, and yes, we will still be sexualizing a selection of women serving on board the Enterprise-D.

At least it’s not a skin-tight catsuit or anything.

I will say, though, I do like that Deanna gets to wear interesting (and definitely non-regulation) accessories with her uniforms, such as this headband of braided metallic fabric.

It’s actually keeping the intrusive thoughts out.

Before the viewer has had time to digest the new uniforms and their lovely jewel tones, however, everyone’s favourite trickster god shows up to cause shenanigans in some serious medieval digs, complete with polished breastplate.

Heed me, mortals, for I am shiny.

When that fails to impress the boy he’s flirting with, he tries a different tack, demonstrating his knowledge of Terran historical costuming.

Hello, fellow humans. I, too, like to shoot gun and breathe poison.

But Starfleet captains are not so easy to provoke (anymore), and the unflappable Picard just wants this magic dingus off his bridge. We get one last costume from a time when, according to Q, “humans learned to control their military with drugs.”

I always dress like this when taking drugs.

With extra pockets (for more drugs).

One last accessory I need to mention before we leave the bridge is the lovely brass-coloured sash on Worf, which won’t survive to season 2. It has a neat little fringe and some kind of presumably-Klingon emblem, but looks a bit odd where it joins at the hip.

Do not look at me from that angle.

Oh, there’s also a story happening, and emergency circumstances force most of the crew to evacuate to the saucer section, which detaches and flees to safety – a very useful maneuver I’m sure we’ll be seeing plenty of times! 

As everyone moves about the ship, we get to see quite a few interesting ideas of what civilian clothing might look like in the 24th century:

Shortcut to futuristic clothing: angles.

Including the pleasant surprise that, on this Enterprise, men finally get to wear skants too!

Those legs deserve no less!

Unsatisfied that the crew is trying to get on with the episode, Q makes his new friends play on his terms, zooping them to his courthouse. As the presiding judge, he wears an incredible ensemble: floor-length black and red robes, red leather gloves, a beautifully ornate necklace, and a very silly hat.

His gathered audience, however, appears to be clad largely in scraps and bits of rope.

Someone mentioned there would be craft services?

At least the court’s bailiffs are better dressed, in cool hats and robes with metallic details. There’s a lot going on with these costumes, and it’s a shame they don’t get more screentime.

A six-foot staff goes with any outfit.

Elsewhere, oblivious and unbothered, some of the crew visit Farpoint Station, where things are suspiciously magically perfect, and everyone has good taste in fabric.

A silk blend, at this price?!

Except for the sketchy guy in charge, whose flawlessly sci-fi name is Groppler Zorn. Zorn mostly just drapes himself in brown gauze, and doesn’t even do anything with his hair. He does accessorize with a tasteful necklace/chest piece, however, which appears to be made of nacre. Also, he is definitely up to something.

Me? Nothing! …What was the question?

In a surprisingly touching passing of the torch, DeForest Kelley makes a cameo, reprising the role of Dr. Leonard McCoy to get one last Vulcan insult in before retirement. He wears a cozy grey sweater with interesting epaulets that probably have nothing to do with his rank over a black shirt and trousers. I love the detail of tucking the pants in over the boots in a poofy way like the TOS uniforms.

Back in my day, boy, androids could only be plot devices.

Last but absolutely not least, the pilot episode gives us a peek of the REAL reason we’re all here: Wesley sweaters.

Magnificent. Breathtaking. Exceptionally brown.

It’s giving 2364 – and yet – solidly 1987.

[worldcatlas]

SNW: Strange New Worlds

Spoiler warning: there will be some.

Following the events of Discovery season 2, Captain Pike heads back to the Enterprise for his own spin-off. We start with a cute little scene of an alien species making first contact, wearing sharp-looking military uniforms with awesome light-up lapels.

My rank is aquamarine and you will address me as such.

As the scene changes, we get a glimpse of some really classic costumes from The Day the Earth Stood Still – apparently one of Captain Pike’s favourites, as he’s watching it while making pancakes and contemplating the horrifying nature of his own doomed existence in an immutable tapestry of fate.

…The movie helps.

Yes, still reeling from having witnessed his own gruesome future, Chris has retreated to his cabin in Montana and adopted the aesthetic of “comfy dad.”

The beard has some potential, though.

Then, without any warning, he cleans up and gets on a horse in a snowstorm, looking like this:

Okay, yes, I’m team beard. 100%.

The viewer suddenly remembers they are writing a blog about fashion, and remembers to pay attention just in time for Admiral April to show up in a shuttle and Starfleet’s latest winter line, complete with gloves and an extra-long jacket.

It’s nice, but I prefer the winter 2154 men’s collection.

They argue about whose jacket is cooler.

Look at this thing. I look amazing.

I think it’s mostly the horse.

Finally, they agree both jackets are good, and Pike will return to the Enterprise. Meanwhile, Spock is on a date.

I love how Vulcan formalwear is so… pointy.

With all the tact of a wild sehlat, Spock comments on how T’Pring is wearing “ritual mating colours,” though it’s hard to tell what those are with how orange everything is on Vulcan. Or maybe the mating colour is orange. That would be convenient.

I’ll bet he hasn’t even noticed her double-decker bun.

Despite the bluntness of Spock’s observation, it IS a great look, with sparkly fabric and interesting cutouts on both the front and back. T’Pring is also a master of accessorizing, and wears swirly gold earrings and a matching gold ring in the shape of a sun.

There’s another accessory inside the box, but it’s probably not important.

Somehow, being an oblivious dingus doesn’t prevent our boy from getting intimate with his new fiancée, and we get to see what Vulcan lingerie looks like! Unlike its lacy human counterpart, Vulcan “date underwear” appears to be geometric and metallic. On the other hand, the sheer cover-up that covers nothing is a well-known garment in human apparel.

I’m not sure I see the logic in this piece of clothing.

Aboard the Enterprise, we are greeted by transporter chief Kyle, who is actually surprisingly well-established in canon and not just some guy named Kyle, which I definitely didn’t assume for a very long time. *cough* 

His uniform is an interesting style, and the colour blocking feels a bit reminiscent of 90s Trek uniforms. He wears a shiny metal badge with his department insignia, similar to the ones we saw in Discovery, in contrast to the simple metallic patches sewn onto the uniforms in TOS.

Friggin’ Kyle.

Most of the bridge crew, on the other hand, wear the solid colour TOS-style uniforms. Right away, we can see they’ve been updated with modern, almost athleticwear fabrics, and have a more severe v-neck.

Spock approves of severity in one’s appearance.

Notably, the rank bands at the cuffs are now coloured to match the uniform, not just standard gold across the board.

Another neat feature is that the upper shoulder/top of sleeve part of these uniforms has a tiny pattern matching the wearer’s department. These symbols are the same as those on their badges, in most cases.

Starburst pattern indicates command.

Spiral pattern indicates operations. Withering glare indicates disdain.

Later, in sick bay, we are introduced to two more legacy TOS characters, Dr. M’Benga and Nurse Chapel. Now, before I get to Nurse Chapel and lose my ability to form cohesive thoughts, let’s look at the good Doctor’s outfit.

The look of a man who’s about to get more lines than the original character ever did.

It’s a lighter blue than other sciences uniforms we’ve seen, closer to the shade used for all medical and science crew in the original series. It also features an interesting front closure, and appears to have a pattern of medical crosses on top of the sleeves/shoulders.

Look, if there’s one guy on the ship who outranks the captain, he gets a special uniform.

Nurse Chapel, on the other hand, gets this absolutely killer white jumpsuit, featuring the same silver bands at the wrist, a zipper down the front, and pockets(!). This is, by far, my favourite uniform variant in Strange New Worlds, and it couldn’t be worn by a better character.

Oh my god she’s so cool. Is she looking this way?

You can also see the same pattern of medical crosses… on the uh…

oh my god I think she looked at me 

I would be sick every day of my life on this starship.

Our guys need to go down to the planet, which means it’s time for disguises! Pike gets a slick black suit, chief of security La’an gets a gorgeous copper jacket, and Spock gets a military-style uniform.

With little shorts.

*chef’s kiss*

I want to focus on La’an’s outfit, which we get to see a little more of as she executes a quick-thinking plan. I love the burgundy tights matching the dress, and of course I’m a fan of the metallic fabric studded with something shiny and metal at the lapels.

I’m a simple Trekkie. Sparkly = good.

So it’s a bit of a shame when they mercilessly beat up a bunch of doctors and steal* their clothes. I do enjoy the construction of these outfits, though, with the high collar and flap closure.

*Okay, they didn’t steal their clothes, they had the ship create replicas of their clothes and beam them down. But that kinda just seems like sci-fi hand-waving because they didn’t want to explain finding three perfectly tailored uniforms. Or have La’an beat up enough doctors to find clothes that fit.

She would, though.

We get a great shot of the full coat, as well as Uhura’s skant, when one of the aliens gets loose aboard Enterprise and they become friends in a turbolift. Note Uhura’s unique rectangular badge, as well.

First time riding the elevator in an alien spaceship?

We also get to see the aliens’ security uniforms in a gorgeous dark teal, complemented by brass-adorned holsters and little tie shields, which are apparently a thing here. I guess neckties are universal, though.

Just like many species develop two arms and eyes, many evolve the half windsor naturally.

The alien president is on top of her brand as well, with an absolutely fierce suit dress in merlot.

That’s ready to go right on the propaganda!

She even comes back in a later scene with a different outfit in the same colour, which tells me this is for sure a woman who has her shit together enough to run a planet.

I can’t even get my socks to match this well.

Before we close out the episode, Admiral April returns with a new jacket, which Pike has to admit is very good.

The badge even has laurels. Okay, you win.

I’m starting to suspect these new-Trek articles are going to be slightly longer.

[worldcatlas]

TOS: The Enemy Within

There’s only one new costume in this episode, but it’s all you’ll need.

The crew is gathering specimens from planet Alfa 177, including plants, minerals, and dogs in silly little costumes alien life forms. The planet will become dangerously cold at night, so Captain Kirk beams back up to the ship, followed shortly by the dog.

Yep, that’s a good boy.

The pup’s outfit includes a rat-like tail, fleshy spikes along its spine, a horn on its forehead, and antennae that resemble porcupine quills. All of which does nothing to make this precious little guy scary or intimidating.

Grr vicious alien monster~

It’s soon discovered, however, that a transporter accident has created a copy of the animal – one that is angry and violent. Oh, and we can’t beam Sulu and the others back up until we know why this happened, but uhhh I’m sure it’ll be fine.

Nothing to add, I just wanted to include more pictures of this lil guy. 

Last one, promise.

Okay I lied.

Meanwhile, unbeknownst to him or the crew, Kirk has also been split into two halves. The “evil” Kirk swaggers around the ship being a sex pest, for which Spock rightfully decides to confront him, but when he arrives at the captain’s quarters, the “good” Kirk has no idea what he’s talking about. Which is as good an excuse as any for him to take his shirt off. 

Would these nips lie, Spock?

Eventually, they figure out there’s an “imposter” aboard, but only after a shocking lack of surprise that Kirk might actually be swigging Saurian brandy on duty and assaulting crewmen. And if you’re having trouble telling the two Kirks apart, just remember that evil always wears more eyeliner.

The better to leer at you with, my dear.

In the end, the Kirks re-integrate, the dog dies (sorry), and Yeoman Rand is told to suck it up and get on with her job because it’s the 60s.

At least her lash game is on point.

[worldcatlas]

PIC: Remembrance

Please note: This article contains spoilers for ST: Picard 1x01 (and earlier events that you should really already know about by now).

Eighteen years after Nemesis, the first episode of Star Trek: Picard opens with our titular admiral playing a game of poker with his old friend Data, who wears the DS9 style of uniform he died in. It’s hard to tell, but it looks like the vertical lines on the grey shoulder area of this remake may have been made by pleating the fabric, rather than quilting.

Yes, our favourite robot is back from the dead, but can we talk about these seams?

Picard himself doesn’t wear anything particularly noteworthy just yet, which is fine, because this was all a dream. Sadly, I can’t say the same for the next scene, in which this cool Xahean guy’s awesome vest–

–does not prevent him from being immediately murdered.

Great lining on the vest, though.

Jean-Luc, awake now, strolls through the vineyards of Château Picard looking absolutely dapper. With a cane and flat cap, he is the very image of a peaceful, pastoral retirement. Somehow, this is the cottagecore content we all needed in our Star Trek.

Number One also looking very gentlemanly.

In a move that seems surprisingly self-important, Picard also appears to be wearing a pin of his own family crest while touring the grounds… but I think he just feels naked without a little badge there. I also appreciate that he has pinned it to – in true Trek fashion – an asymmetrical sweater.

Straight lines were banned in 2360.

Speaking of great sweaters, another member of the household who wears the Picard family crest is Laris, Jean-Luc’s Romulan housekeeper. 

The fuzziness offsets the pointiness.

Our plot needs a catalyst, so a mean reporter is introduced to bully Picard into action. Her outfit is fine – nothing particularly futuristic except the weird single lapel – but she accessorizes it with digital makeup. We only get to see this concept for a few seconds, but I’m sold, I want ten, and I wish she’d gone with the indigo lip.

And here I am using crushed berries and charcoal like a chump.

Back to moving the plot forward, important character Dahj shows up to the vineyard wearing what I can only describe as an elven cloak.

Good boys know good fashion.

This gorgeous coat appears to be made of a heavy green wool with black strappy accents, a big slouchy hood, and a very pointy hemline. The sides cross over in front instead of having a traditional closure, which seems like it would leave your tummy chilly, but does allow for greater flexibility.

Always buy a coat that you can wear in snow, wind, and combat.

I’m also a huge fan of the thumbhole sleeves/built-in gloves.

Next, it’s time to visit the Starfleet Archives, which means another rib knit sweater.

If you’d spent a lifetime in polyester uniforms, you’d make the same choice.

I know it makes sense that, in any century, most people will still just wear normal, everyday clothes. But it doesn’t quite feel like the future without, like, androgynous holograms in wispy all-white outfits made of sheer fabrics and angular lines, you know?

Oh, there we go.

After some unfortunate events, our hero finds himself speaking with one Dr. Agnes Jurati, whose lab coat is business in front… box cutter mishap in the back?

Maybe she Hulks out sometimes and needs a contingency.

And then, just when you thought we couldn’t possibly introduce any more characters, a dark and brooding Romulan makes a dramatic entrance.

I’m sure the outfit is great, but these guys REALLY like shadows.

[worldcatlas]

TOS: The Naked Time

You might think an episode with the word “naked” in the title wouldn’t have any good costumes, but fear not: in the very first scene, we are greeted with the gaudiest (and most unconvincing) biohazard suits ever to grace the silver screen.

Definitely airtight.

On closer inspection, the sparkly space fabric consists of two layers, a plain red fabric overlaid with a sheer black and gold mesh. The silver wrist band offers a delightful sci-fi touch as well, with a tantalizing Big Red Button.

It’s for the ejector seat. Don’t ask.

The away team returns to the ship, and we see the last of the hi-vis protective suits… and just when your guard is down, the scene changes to sick bay, where Spock is getting a checkup in an illegally tight black t-shirt.

Spock, please, this is a sick bay.

Finally, the episode title pays off: it’s naked time!

Not a costume, or… the best costume?

Infected with the plot device, a topless Sulu thrusts his way down a corridor, confusing the crew and creating one of the most memorable thirst traps in Star Trek history.

Uniform options: officer, crewman, none

Lastly, I feel like I must acknowledge Nurse Chapel’s extremely well-tailored uniform. The collar curves around in swoopy, retrofuturistic lines, and the decorative seams lining up with the Starfleet emblem is an excellent touch. I have questions about the hemline, but I suspect I already know the answer.

Are you sure this is standard issue, Gene?

[worldcatlas]

DISCO: The Vulcan Hello

With so many new Star Trek series in production these days, I wanted to change things up a bit this time and look at how costume design has changed for a modern TV audience. Please note that, for obvious reasons, this article will contain spoilers for Star Trek: Discovery episode 1.

After a slog of Klingon rhetoric with too many sweaty close-ups, the first episode of Discovery throws us straight into a desert, where Captain Philippa Georgiou and XO Michael Burnham are geared up for the harsh climate.

Note the matching leather accessories for communicator and tricorder.

The fabrics look light and breezy, they have appropriate eye protection, and they’d probably blend right in if not for the phaser rifles.

Captain Georgiou believes in being prepared (to kick ass).

We also catch a glimpse of the planet’s natives, but as they (and their clothes) appear to be entirely CG, it didn’t feel right to include them.

Back on the ship, the USS Shenzhou (don’t get too attached), we get a look at the new uniforms!

And a new favourite character!

Taking a cue from Enterprise – the previous Trek chronologically – the uniforms are a gorgeous navy blue. This is accented with gold, silver, or bronze trim, denoting the divisions of Command, Sciences, and Operations, respectively.

And is that a pocket??

I adore metallic accents on clothing, and I think they look sharp as hell here, but they can be notoriously difficult to launder.

No wait, THAT looks difficult to launder.

Not to be outdone in terms of glamour, when we finally get a good look at the Klingons, they are bringing the drip.

This outfit cost more than your starship.

T’Kuvma’s armour has a cute little hint of a ruffled collar, perhaps in homage to Shakespeare, one of the more famous Klingon authors. I’m also a huge fan of the pointy ruby claws on the shoulder spikes.

How can you be angry while so bedazzled?

The other bald Klingons appear to have shown up to this party in their best chitin(?) or maybe targ leather? Either way, the look of the season on Qo’noS is “pinecone.”

Do you think Klingons own, like, t-shirts?

I also love the cute little peplum happening on Voq’s armour.

Girl, if you don’t have a waistline, make one.

The episode still has a few tricks up its overly-ornate sleeves, including some excellent Vulcan robes from none other than Sarek –

Nobody styles in a Dracula collar like Vulcans.

– and holo-Sarek, who may be trying to set a record for most popped collars.

It’s in his contract to only be filmed at this angle.

For a species whose planet averages 50°C, they sure do like floor-length robes.

Through the magic of backstory, we even get to see a tiny Michael Burnham being subjected to a Vulcan homework/torture pit, wearing – you guessed it – robes.

You gotta hand it to those Vulcan tailors, though. That’s a robe you can build a house on.

Things are looking good for new Trek!

[worldcatlas]

TOS: Where No Man Has Gone Before

Originally filmed as the show’s second pilot, the un-finalized costumes in Where No Man Has Gone Before stand out like a sore thumb. The episode opens with Kirk and Spock talking over a game of 3D chess, both wearing gold uniforms with ribbed trim at the neck; strangely, Spock’s looks like it has been hastily tailored right before filming.

From the side, we see Kirk’s has a convenient zipper.

So he can fit his ego through.

Later on the bridge, we see several crew members wearing aggressively beige uniforms, a look we (thankfully) wouldn’t see again until The Motion Picture. We also get a look at the cute, scarf-like collars on the women’s uniforms, and the very un-cute sweatpants they threw on characters in the background.

Anyway, the plot happens, and one Gary Mitchell ends up in sick bay with crazy powers, manifested as cool reflective eyes. Disturbingly, this effect was achieved by sandwiching tinfoil between layers of contact lenses, which the actors then put on their eyeballs, a practice that cannot possibly be safe or healthy in any way, especially in the 1960s (source).

Digging the Enterprise-branded hospital gown, though.

Nothing much else happens in the way of costumes this episodes, save that (of course) Kirk finds a way to rip his shirt and show off a bit of skin.

Oh, that’s what the zipper is for.

[worldcatlas]

TOS: Charlie X

The episode begins with the titular Charlie beaming aboard, wearing what looks like upholstery remnants that fell in a swamp. His fashion sense isn’t the reason Charlie’s old crew is abandoning him and warping away, but I wouldn’t blame them if it were.

Charlie can name forty seven shades of brown.

Captain Kirk, conversely, is as sharply-dressed as ever, showing off a slick new alternate uniform: a pea-green captain’s shirt with a wraparound closure, gold rank braids at the collar instead of the sleeves, and significantly more bare chest than is Starfleet regulation.

Captain's prerogative: wearing nothing underneath.

The viewer is also blessed with a trip to the Enterprise’s fitness facilities, where exercising crew members work out in Starfleet-branded leotards, karate gi…

…and tight little captain pants.

This is how a real man works out, Charlie.

Yeoman Rand wins best fit of the episode, however, when Charlie barges into her private quarters and finds her in a wispy space nightgown. She gives him exactly what he deserves about it.

Yes, she wears that hairstyle to bed.

This is not Janice’s day, though, and she soon finds herself science-magically brought to the bridge as well – without a chance to change into her uniform.

Don't give yourself whiplash, Jim.

And yet somehow, this is still less revealing than the standard-issue skant.

[worldcatlas]

Star Trek: The Motion Picture (part 1)

The colour of the season at Starfleet is beige, which doesn't bode well for this big-screen adaptation of The Original Series. At least everyone looks cozy.

The palette runs from taupe to ecru.

Thankfully, the Vulcans are along shortly, sporting some extremely good robes. Spock, having been away purging emotions, has nonetheless grown out the haircut of a Medieval choir boy.

We like logic, triangles, and microbangs, okay?

There are a lot of interesting structural details on the outer garments, including the circles on Spock's robes, which match the tiled ground.

Our pointy-eared friends don't skimp on accessories either; who else can pull off chunky gold bracelets in a desert?

Or a bulky metal statement necklace??

It's 50°C, T'sai, let's stick to cotton.

The best costume, though, is one we barely get to see; and it's the single most expensive costume ever worn by a Hollywood extra. Made with real silk, gold, and silver, the fabric alone for this Betelgeusian ambassador's costume is valued at over $10,000. Despite this, the costume appears on screen for less than a minute, and never appreciably in focus.

I guess they really don't understand money in the Federation!

(To be continued in Part II)