Just a place to make and share fanart. Life Series/Hermitcraft mainly, though Stardew Valley and other SMPs make appearances. ↓ Asks & requests open. (congrats you found my main!)
Some of you guys asked what other kinds of crafting I do, so I figured I’d show off my current long-running project.
I’ve been working on this for about a year, off and on. I’m the type of person who — fortunately or unfortunately — project hops a lot, or I would have been finished by now. I should have something about the size of a twin-sized blanket when I’m done.
Let’s just say, when this thing is done, I may never do tapestry crochet again xD
I love this concept and I am totally in the same boat and would rather be perceived as an abstract concept than a person at this moment in my life lol.
I think I’d be a colorful newly built two story house with a bright red roof, with old musty clocks covering all of the walls, the only light comes from the open windows
@lexisrants @k4enobi @goldendaysforever @angiesbed @angelsblogs @ramonasinacoma and anybody else that sees :D
I love this and already percieve myself like this internally in a way
I’m the void / the abyss overall
I’m a place that seems miserable and lonely but if you pull back the curtain you see little floating lights in the dark. The place that isn’t so lonely, in the simplest way I can put it without it being a full poem
Overall, anyway. I also write lots of poetry about this subject
Hmm… dunno if this has already been done but you know when you open your eyes or its too bring or too dark and you see those little shadows out of the corners of your eyes? Thats me. Reaching for you.
*stares off into the distance for a very long time, thunking*
ok. Let’s see if I can figure out how to word this
I think I’d be the pressure feeling from a good hug. You know how when a hug is tight but not crushing? And it feels like you’ve been emotionally just popped back into place? The tingling warmness in the chest. Yea, that’s me.
There are an infinite number of life’s small pleasures to choose from! If I were to pick just one, I would like to live in the smell of old books — that particular scent that you come across in used book stores and some libraries.
I’m afraid, however, that I would instead manifest as the grit of teeth over unspoken words.
Oh! I actually know what made these look so iconic!
The backgrounds for the entire series were done on black paper, a first for any animated show. It's Batman, which means everything is at night and incredibly dark. So, the majority of the backgrounds were going to be black anyways and using black paper would cut down on the time it took to create all of the backgrounds. Adding color over the black paper instead of the traditional method gave it a much more stylized look that helped make it iconic.
It also forced some other creative choices, such as using an airbrush to do all of the background art. During the early testing, they found that using an airbrush was easier to apply paint with than a paintbrush and that it looked better. Airbrushing let them be more experimental with painting techniques, such as the spattery fades you can see in the "Bane" and "Deep Freeze" title cards above or the soft, deeply shadowed face on "the Last Laugh." The overall effect of airbrushing on a black background is a much darker, moodier vibe than could be achieved with a traditional approach.
They cared very deeply about the art of the show and how they were going to create it. It wasn't just about the story or the character. In the words of co-creator Eric Radomski: "As opposed to making shows just to sell toys, we've made quality films."
Scar’s planet, inspired by Mumbo’s latest episode. I decided to be creative with the colours in this one, but in the end I wonder if I maybe just should’ve stuck to the original palette.
A small painting I made today of Bdubs base, inspired by Mumbo’s latest episode. The whole thing is ten by fifteen cm, or four by six inches (if my math is correct). I used a larger brush than I usually would for this painting, as I didn’t want to get lost in the details.
A disclaimer before we begin: this is the part of the process that I understand the least. I am very much not an authority on spine strength vs flexibility, etc. I do my best to achieve something that feels solid, by mashing together a couple of different processes and pray.
Tools required for this step:
1. Book mull cloth
2. Writing implement to mark measurements
3. Scissors
4. Box cutter or crafting knife
5. PVA glue
6. A brush
7. Scrap paper or cardstock
8. Pre-made end bands (that two-tone ribbon thing)
9. Ribbon (if you are adding a bookmark)
I will be following a combination of this tutorial by Renaissance Bookbinding, and this one by bitter melon bindery.
Now, welcome to my janky-ass setup!
I don’t own a book press, but I do have two strong clamps and some boxes of sparkling water to use as solid stands. I also don’t have any actual wooden boards, so I made a couple of appropriately sized book protectors out of three layers of book board sandwiched together with masking tape.
Step 1: Glue
You’re going to need a lot more glue than what was pictured here, btw. The goal is to get a nice, even coating across all of the signatures. The book should be clamped firmly enough that the glue isn’t going to penetrate too far down between the signatures, but not so tightly that we’re deforming the spine.
Step 2: Make and attach filler pieces
While the glue dries slightly, I measure the width of the spine as it is clamped, and cut long strips of scrap paper to that size. Then I measure the gaps between my ribbons and fold those strips over and over until they are approximately the same thickness as the sewing bumps (for me, this was 5 layers of paper).
I glue these lightly together and press them between waxed paper for a few minutes, before attaching them to the spine. Since the last coat of glue is still not quite dry, it doesn’t take a lot of extra glue to get these firmly in place.
Note: Renaissance Bookbinding used bits of book board for this step, but I like to reuse materials where I can. If the object is to level out the spine and make everything even with the ribbon bumps, the scrap paper does that. Just with extra steps.
Step 4: Attach bookmark
I added *another* coat of glue over the whole spine (not super thick), and then measured and cut the ribbon. I almost glued this thing to the tail of the book (the bottom), so make sure you have a way of marking/remembering which side of the book is up when you put it in your press!
Step 5: Attach head and tail bands
This is as easy as measuring and cutting pieces of pre-fabricated end bands, then attaching them to either side. The one on the top of the book is called the headband; the one on the bottom is called the tailband. Make sure that the little cord piece hangs just slightly over the lip of the spine!
Step 6: Apply the spine strengthener
Measure and cut a piece (or two) of book mull. Some binders use cheesecloth for this; Renaissance Bookbinding literally just used a tube of paper.
If using a fabric, the mull should cover the length of the spine and hang at least one (1) inch to either side of the spine; I like to overdo things and trim these down later. Lay the pieces down one at a time and apply more glue on top. You kind of just brush and mash the glue through the mull until you have an even coating over the whole thing.
Step 7: Let this dry!
Overnight is best. This will take longer to dry than you think. Once done, you can pull it out of your press and admire your handiwork. The textblock itself is now done!
Next up: designing and constructing the cover. Not sure if I will show the computer side of things (GIMP + LibreOffice), but I will at least document cover construction and materials.
I followed this tutorial for flexible “made endpapers” by DAS Bookbinding, so I didn’t take as many pictures of the process this time (sorry). However, I did take some photos of the finished end paper, page by page, to give you a detailed view of what this thing should look like before you sew it on.
Tools and supplies for this step:
1. Metal ruler (mostly for using as a guide while cutting the end papers to size)
2. Paper cutter of some kind
3. Bone folder
4. Brush (I like this silicone one; easy to clean)
5. PVA glue
6. Two (2) sheets of decorative paper (DAS used marbled paper, I like using scrapbook paper)
7. Four (4) sheets of your text block paper
8. An awl (not pictured)
You will also need a pencil/pen and some cardstock, if you need to make a punching card. I didn’t trust my punching cradle not to pierce the decorative sheet, so I made myself a tool for punching end papers:
(This is just cardstock with a right angle slot cut into it. I laid it beside my text block and marked where all the holes were with a pen. DAS uses one in his tutorial, but didn’t show how it was made)
What’s the difference between regular (“tipped on”) and “made” endpapers?
The last two books I did had very simple tipped on endpapers, meaning that I took a single sheet of double-sided decorative paper, cut them to the same size as my text block (x2 width), folded them in half and then glued the fold straight to the text block.
This kind of endpaper is very easy to create, but has the disadvantage of not opening fully like the rest of the book’s sewn pages (shown above).
“Made” endpapers remove this problem by giving you something to sew straight onto the text block. It does require a bit of construction, however, so it’s a good idea to watch the DAS Bookbinding tutorial a couple of times to make sure you understand all the steps.
Here’s a finished one:
Page 1: this is the waste sheet that gets folded over from the back before the endpaper is sewn onto the textblock. I will actually be tearing this thing straight off when it comes time to put the case on. I’ve marked it with an “F” to show that this is the front endpaper, and an arrow pointing towards the top (or “head”) of the book, to aid in attaching this later.
Page 2: the backside of the decorative paper. I used scrapbook paper with different patterns on each side so that this would be easy to see. This side of the paper will be glued to the inside of the case, so we won’t see it.
Page 3: the frontside of the decorative paper! This is the pretty sheet that we will see when we open the book up. When we punch the holes into the endpapers, it is important not to penetrate this sheet, because we do not want to see thread here.
Page 4: these two sheets are actually going to be partially glued together once the rest of the book is constructed. Quite a few tutorials on made endpapers would have you glue these two sheets entirely together, leaving a “stiff” sheet. Either way, we won’t see this side of the scrapbook paper when the book is finished.
Page 5: the first of the pages we will see when we open the book past the pretty paper. You can see the holes that I punched into this sheet for sewing later. (I missed a hole, btw, and had to punch it with my needle later :P)
Page 6: because these are held together with a line of glue, I am genuinely considering adhering these pages together at the end (as with page 4 and its opposite)
Page 7: the last page before the textblock begins. It is the second half of the folio that was folded around to the front of the endpaper bundle to create the waste sheet.
I have not decided if I am going to be adding any reinforcing glue between the signatures of my text block like DAS does in his tutorial, or if I am moving straight onto glueing the spine. First I have to determine whether this book is simply too wide for a regular case binding (with a flat spine), or if I am going to have to curve this thing first.
Either way, keep your fingers crossed for me — this thing is thick enough to pose a challenge, and I’ve never curved a spine before!