The last hour at Central, dinner experience of a lifetime. We are successfully behind the two couples that were seated after us, and I believe its around now that I start to feel really buzzed.
Course 11: Colors of Amazonia 450 meters
Paiche, Yacon, Guanabana, Lemongrass
This course was not particularly memorable. Paiche is the fish, which is the "meat" of this course but it is flanked by other "cool" items like the guanabana fruit and the potato like vegetable yacon. Its almost like a ceviche with no lime or onion. I guess then its not ceviche, but the way it was prepared evoked that similarity.
At this point, I wanted to move on from the chilled fish courses and was looking for a bit more meat. I'm accustomed to my own wine dinners which are very meat heavy! (American Steakhouse vs. #1 Restaurant in Peru) I appreciate the subtlety, I promise.
Course 12: Coastal Harvest 20 meters
Scallops, Yellow Chili Peppers, Borage, Tumbo
The fancy way to serve soup or any sauce, it to pour it table side. This dish arrived with the brown liquid in a cup on the side that the server poured in a circular motion into the bowl.
Scallops are not always my favorite but this was an amazing preparation. I love when different textures are combined and I believe part of my dislike of scallops has to do with texture. The crunchy white topping complimented the soft scallop feeling and the brown sauce was delicious. Tumbo is a type of passion fruit which gave this dish sweet and salty characteristics.
Course 13: Sea Coral -10 meters
Octopus, Crab, Squid, Sea Lettuce
The amount I have grown to love octopus has surprised me. What stands out to me in this course is the servers saying "sealettoos" in such a strong accent that Adam and I had to check the menu to see that the green sauce was made from Sea-Lettuce.
Another combination of textures with the crunchy brown pieces on top. The most amazing part of this course is also that I know all the ingredients without googling anything. :)
The octopus was so meaty it didn't even taste like a fish. This heavier, salty course was one of the best but perfectly sized in these small plates. I have only ever eaten octopus as an appetizer but I imagine any more than what was on my plate here, could get to be too much.
Course 14: Low Andes Mountains 1800 meters
Pork, Black Mashwa, Panca Chili Pepper, Kiwicha
I think I have had about 10 favorite courses so far but this is the one that is actually my favorite!!! I am a carnivore, meat lover, but most especially when it comes to pork.
This was a small short rib covered in delicious sauce with delicious little toppings. I didn't want this piece to end but it was so good I wanted to gobble it up. I think I made it about 3.5 bites. The part that looks like it may be crunchy is not really. It is the kiwicha which is a type of amaranth (grain). I have to assume the black mashwa is the sauce which was so savory yet just the right hint of sweetness to pair with the perfectly cooked pork. I could have had 3 of these little pieces, even after 13 courses.
Course 15: Humid Green 3700 meters
Caigua, Cushuro, Sweet Lemon, Chaco Clay
This would be a sort of semifreddo or even the type or palate cleansing sorbet you would get between courses. I remember this to be very fresh and very green tasting. The lime green pieces were almost ice and the light green piece was also cold, but much softer.
The black chaco clay on the plate was not overpowering but it gave this course a certain taste that was juxtaposed against the light green flavors.
Course 16: Amazonian White 400 meters
Cacao, Chirimoya, Bahuaja Nut, Taperiba
I only needed to see "cacao" to know that I would love this course. It looks like chocolate ice cream with whipped cream topped with coconut and flowers. The flavors were so much more complex than that. Plus, these items are all topping a fruit on the bottom.
Lets be honest, at this point, I had also had 11 drink tastes. Take a look at the photo below and you will understand why I know this course was delicious, but my descriptor words were far from my mind.
I digress...one final course remains.
Course 17: Medicinals and Plant Dyes 3050 meters
Congona, Matico, Malva, Pilipili
This white dish that looks like a mountain of powdered sugar is actually just a frozen plate meant to look like the snowy mountains. If my memory serves me, the cubes were bready bites with a crunchy crust. The pieces that look like chocolate are indeed chocolate with some of these greens mixed in there (matico, malva, etc.).
This final drink was very memorable. Its looking very green and a bit nerve-wracking to drink after 17 courses of food and 11 drinks but the waiter says it is meant to help you digest... I go for it before Adam and I am amazed--I have never tasted anything so refreshing before. There is no distinct or strong taste but something about it leaves the mount feeling very cleansed and complete.
To complete the meal we received a lovely little gift of a book whose pages are made from the ingredients in the meal. And finally, we got a picture in the kitchen with the legendary Virgilio Martinez himself. What a night to remember.
Central Restaurant, Lima, Peru
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