That took a little more time than I expected but hey I wanted it to look good! Here’s my first ever attempt at doing any sort of color palette design challenge, hope yall like it!
Dont repost without credit!
I realized I spelt twilight wrong but Im not fixing it its just Quirky™ now
Here's what's gonna happen. You're gonna take 4 russet potatoes. You're gonna peel them and dice them. You're gonna set them in a bowl of cold water so they don't oxidize. Then you're gonna cook a half pound of bacon until crispy and set it aside. You're gonna melt 4 tablespoons of butter in a dutch oven. No more, no less. Add some diced onion and garlic to that. Saute it for a couple minutes. Then you're gonna add 4 tablespoons of flour and make a roux. You're gonna add 3 cups of milk to the roux. Slowly. Don't get in a hurry. Then add 3 cups of chicken stock. Add plenty of salt and pepper. Bring it to a boil. Add your potatoes in. Let that simmer for 20 minutes. Then you're gonna add some sour cream, the chopped up bacon from earlier, and some grated cheddar. You're gonna stir that together for 5 minutes. And then garnish it with a little green onion and shredded cheddar. You got it?
Question about ur bookbinding: ive done blank journals before but i cannot figure out how to get printed stuff in the right order. Are you manually editing pdfs? is there an easier way? (please tell me theres an easier way than manually editing pdfs)
hi! yes i’m manually editing them. it’s not the easiest way but it gets the best results.
if you don’t want to do that you may find this video tutorial for printing pdfs helpful: https://youtu.be/EGuED0m51lc
if you decide to typeset it yourself here’s what i did, using libreoffice: start by copy/pasting the entire body of text, then style it, then format for print. i followed this doc: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Boa-vauo-Sig10zuqAVpA3fuOPPFsVNiV-gSkmcCE0s/edit i would say page numbers are absolutely necessary so be sure to add them, although you may want to exclude them from title pages, table of contents, etc. so set them to a different page style than your main one/s (you can either have just one for simplicity’s sake or left and right styles which can also help with assembly).
either way, printing and assembly goes like this (this is for at-home, have no idea how this would work if you used a copy shop):
-make sure you know what size paper you’ll be printing on. i used 8.5x11 because it’s simple. it’s important to know the difference between a sheet of paper and a page, because with this technique (which is the one i used and the one in that video) 1 sheet holds 4 pages, since they’ll half-sized (5.5x8.5) and double sided.
-you don’t print the entire book at once, you print one signature at a time. i did 24 pages per signature, which was printed on 6 sheets of paper (twice, since they’re double sided). to do this open the print menu (i’m talking specifically about libreoffice but most editing and reading software is similar), type in the “pages to print” as 1-24 (to start), set it to “booklet” or “brochure”, and “flip on long side”. (i’m not sure whether it’s libreoffice or my printer, but i had to rotate it in addition to flipping because the second side would print facing the other way). if you did it correctly, you should see that the page on the top of the stack has two very far apart page numbers (1 and 24), and the one on the bottom has page numbers that are right next to each other (12 and 13). and remember that title pages/table of contents/etc sometimes make the page number inaccurate/not literal so be sure to figure out if you need to adjust for that.
-the next signature is pages 25-48, then 49-72, 73-96, 97-120, and so on. be sure the keep them in order with paper clips or alternating the orientation you stack them in (like in the pic i posted). you might end up with a bunch of blank pages at the end of the very last signature because it has to be a multiple of 4 (if you’ve ever wondered why mass-produced books have that, that’s why). i think it will adjust for those blank pages automatically if your document doesn’t have the right number of pages, but if you’re editing it yourself i would add in the number of blank pages you need to be safe.
-now on to folding them. i start from the bottom of the stack (12 and 13) and work to the top (1 and 24), with each new sheet wrapping around the one before it (the second sheet should have both the previous page and next page from the pages on the other side of the first sheet, which i think would be 10 and 15?). when you’re done 12 and 13 should be facing each other in the middle and 1 and 24 should be on the outside. repeat for all the signatures, make sure their last page (24) goes to the next signature’s first page (25), and then you’re ready to sew them together
i think that’s pretty much it. it’s definitely confusing, i had some trial and error before i figured it out. once you crack it it’s a great skill to have so i’d suggest continuing to hunt for instructions until you find some that make sense to you (like i watched sooo many youtube tutorials but what finally made it click for me was 2 sentences on the adobe help forums)
i am At Work (technically) so I can go into more detail later if u want, but rule 1 for longer lasting clothes is making sure they are 100% one type of fiber. Rule 2 is making sure that fiber is a natural fiber. Natural fibers are stronger than synthetic ones, and mixing fibers always makes them worse than their weakest link.
oh that’s fascinating, i’ve obviously not been paying close attention but i’ve never seen mixed fibers presented as a negative? some manufacturers almost seem to make that a selling point as if they’ve made some kind of scientific breakthrough and their polyester/cotton blend is like the second coming of bronze
Okay I’m by no means an expert, but I’ll explain what I can as best I can. Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll answer to the best of my abilities!
Also this is way longer than I planned I’m so sorry
Usability of a fiber comes partially from its physical structure and partially from its properties (how it reacts to other things). There are a couple other factors, but I’m just gonna talk about the bits I know.
There are 3 types of fibers: Protein/animal based (wool and silk), plant based (cotton, linen, hemp), and synthetic/plastic (rayon, polyester, acrylic, nylon etc)
As a general trend, synthetic fibers are short, water-proof, tubes that are smooth and round. Short fibers mean that they don’t overlap with other fibers when twisted together into yard/thread, and are therefore easier to pull apart. Smooth means that they can’t link together with other strands, meaning they’re easier to pull apart. Water-proof-ness doesn’t really effect its strength, but does mean they don’t stain quite so easily. The stretchy-ness of many synthetic fabrics makes them somewhat difficult to work with if you’re a home sewer.
I regrettably don’t know much about silk, though it is one of the 2 strongest fibers, and the strongest protein based fiber (woven silk is resistant to piercing and slashing, and can even break sewing machine needles if you use the wrong one!)
Wool is pretty cool though. It repels water slightly, so it is useful to keep warm in somewhat rainy environments. Wool isn’t the longest fiber, but does curl, which helps “lock” it with other strands. One of the coolest properties of wool is its “scales” (check the pic out). When wool does get wet those scales will flare out a bit, then when it dries again they will lock with one another- this is how wool felt is made! Felting wool makes it more waterproof, since water can’t get in the holes of the weave or knit. Even when not felted, those scales help wool lock in with nearby fibers, so it’s not easy to pull apart. (Softer wools, with fewer or lessened scales have this trait, but its diminished some).
Wool (and silk) have a problem where they’re hard to wash, since they react somewhat negatively to water. That being said, wool is slightly antibacterial, so if it is allowed to dry in a well ventilated area, it won’t keep the bacteria that will cause smell. (This is also why you wear cotton or linen between your skin and anything wool- plant fibers absorb lots of stuff that you don’t want on wool or silk, and are much easier to wash)
(I cannot find the original source for this image, just a bunch of pintrest >:/)
Plant fibers!!! As a general rule, plant fibers will absorb lots of water, which can make them heavy in wet circumstances. Look at the shape of cotton above. Each fiber is a sort of flattened oval that twists around- a lot like type 4 hair- which means it locks together really easily. It’s a fairly short fiber, but still longer than most synthetic fibers, and that locking helps a lot for making yarn/thread. Cotton is a popular fabric because it makes fabric of a decent strength that is still easy to work with and wash. It can also be woven to pretty strong fabrics (100% cotton denim or canvas) or knit into softer fabrics (like t-shirt material).
Linen is the second of the two strongest fibers/fabrics. Linen is made from flax, and has very very long fibers. The longer fibers than any other. Because the fibers are so long, they overlap a lot when twisted together, making a stronger thread! Woven linen fabric can’t be ripped like cotton can- you have to cut it. And like silk, it will break the needle on machines if you use the wrong one or sew too fast. Linen absorbs a lot of water, and other stuff, which is why it is typically what old undergarments are made of, since you don’t want body oils getting on your 2 outfits while between washing. It’s also good for beneath corsets and the like for the same reason. Very lightweight, good for warm environments :)
WHY YOU DON’T MIX FIBERS:
When looking for beginner spinning I found a bunch of wool/linen mixes for some reason. When mixing linen or cotton with wool you are A) Mixing a fiber that locks together with scales with a fiber that is smoother, therefore removing the benefit of the scales. B) Mixing a longer fiber with shorter fibers, decreasing the amount of overlap. C) Mixing a fiber that absorbs heaps of water with a fiber that doesn’t really absorb much water, but will absolutely felt closed when exposed to too much water, meaning you get little pockets of wet bacteria all throughout your fabric. Terrible.
More commonly you’ll see cotton/synthetic mixes. Now you’re mixing A) A fiber that locks with straight fibers that can’t twist or lock together, meaning they won’t. B) Fibers that absorb lots of water with fibers that repel water. These fabrics aren’t as thick as wool, so you don’t have the bacteria problem, however when a fiber absorbs water it expands. So if half the fabric is expanding, and the other half isn’t, the twist of the yarn is weakening. C) A fiber that stretches, with a fiber that doesn’t. The synthetic fibers stretch and retract, the cotton can’t stretch, but will scrunch up when the synthetic retracts- this is what causes pilling, and why fabric gets sheer after pilling- all the cotton is being removed from the twist of the yarn.
The point is, each fibers’ strengths are undone and weaknesses exacerbated by pretty much any other fiber, especially when mixing across the protein/plant/synthetic categories.
Companies want you to buy synthetic fibers and synthetic mixes because they are a hell of a lot cheaper. And also as a form of planned obsolescence. If your jeans pill so much they can’t be repaired every year, then you have to buy new jeans every damn year.
Synthetic fibers are Plastic so they can Melt. This is why you don’t want to wash/dry anything with synthetic fibers on high.
(In general, you want to wash/dry clothing on cold/cool settings anyway since they last longer like that- with the exception of linen, which you can soak in lye and it will still outlive you)
This is also why you want your bedding/towels/washcloths (kitchen and bathroom) to be linen or cotton- all that needs to be washed as hot as possible to get all the skin/food oils off.
i am At Work (technically) so I can go into more detail later if u want, but rule 1 for longer lasting clothes is making sure they are 100% one type of fiber. Rule 2 is making sure that fiber is a natural fiber. Natural fibers are stronger than synthetic ones, and mixing fibers always makes them worse than their weakest link.
oh that’s fascinating, i’ve obviously not been paying close attention but i’ve never seen mixed fibers presented as a negative? some manufacturers almost seem to make that a selling point as if they’ve made some kind of scientific breakthrough and their polyester/cotton blend is like the second coming of bronze
Okay I’m by no means an expert, but I’ll explain what I can as best I can. Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll answer to the best of my abilities!
Also this is way longer than I planned I’m so sorry
Usability of a fiber comes partially from its physical structure and partially from its properties (how it reacts to other things). There are a couple other factors, but I’m just gonna talk about the bits I know.
There are 3 types of fibers: Protein/animal based (wool and silk), plant based (cotton, linen, hemp), and synthetic/plastic (rayon, polyester, acrylic, nylon etc)
As a general trend, synthetic fibers are short, water-proof, tubes that are smooth and round. Short fibers mean that they don’t overlap much with other fibers when twisted together into yard/thread, and are therefore easier to pull apart. Smooth means that they can’t link together with other strands, meaning they’re easier to pull apart. Water-proof-ness doesn’t really effect its strength, but does mean they don’t stain quite so easily. The stretchy-ness of many synthetic fabrics makes them somewhat difficult to work with if you’re a home sewer.
I regrettably don’t know much about silk, though it is one of the 2 strongest fibers, and the strongest protein based fiber (woven silk is resistant to piercing and slashing, and can even break sewing machine needles if you use the wrong one!)
Wool is pretty cool though. It repels water slightly, so it is useful to keep warm in somewhat rainy environments. Wool isn’t the longest fiber, but does curl, which helps “lock” it with other strands. One of the coolest properties of wool is its “scales” (check the pic out). When wool does get wet those scales will flare out a bit, then when it dries again they will lock with one another- this is how wool felt is made! Felting wool makes it more waterproof, since water can’t get in the holes of the weave or knit. Even when not felted, those scales help wool lock in with nearby fibers, so it’s not easy to pull apart. (Softer wools, with fewer or lessened scales have this trait, but its diminished some).
Wool (and silk) have a problem where they’re hard to wash, since they react somewhat negatively to water. That being said, wool is slightly antibacterial, so if it is allowed to dry in a well ventilated area, it won’t keep the bacteria that will cause smell. (This is also why you wear cotton or linen between your skin and anything wool- plant fibers absorb lots of stuff that you don’t want on wool or silk, and are much easier to wash)
(I cannot find the original source for this image, just a bunch of pintrest >:/)
Plant fibers!!! As a general rule, plant fibers will absorb lots of water, which can make them heavy in wet circumstances. Look at the shape of cotton above. Each fiber is a sort of flattened oval that twists around- a lot like type 4 hair- which means it locks together really easily. It’s a fairly short fiber, but still longer than most synthetic fibers, and that locking helps a lot for making yarn/thread. Cotton is a popular fabric because it makes fabric of a decent strength that is still easy to work with and wash. It can also be woven to pretty strong fabrics (100% cotton denim or canvas) or knit into softer fabrics (like t-shirt material).
Linen is the second of the two strongest fibers/fabrics. Linen is made from flax, and has very very long fibers. The longer fibers than any other. Because the fibers are so long, they overlap a lot when twisted together, making a stronger thread! Woven linen fabric can’t be ripped like cotton can- you have to cut it. And like silk, it will break the needle on machines if you use the wrong one or sew too fast. Linen absorbs a lot of water, and other stuff, which is why it is typically what old undergarments are made of, since you don’t want body oils getting on your 2 outfits while between washing. It’s also good for beneath corsets and the like for the same reason. Very lightweight, good for warm environments :)
WHY YOU DON’T MIX FIBERS:
When looking for beginner spinning I found a bunch of wool/linen mixes for some reason. When mixing linen or cotton with wool you are A) Mixing a fiber that locks together with scales with a fiber that is smoother, therefore removing the benefit of the scales. B) Mixing a longer fiber with shorter fibers, decreasing the amount of overlap. C) Mixing a fiber that absorbs heaps of water with a fiber that doesn’t really absorb much water, but will absolutely felt closed when exposed to too much water, meaning you get little pockets of wet bacteria all throughout your fabric. Terrible.
More commonly you’ll see cotton/synthetic mixes. Now you’re mixing A) A fiber that locks with straight fibers that can’t twist or lock together, meaning they won’t. B) Fibers that absorb lots of water with fibers that repel water. These fabrics aren’t as thick as wool, so you don’t have the bacteria problem, however when a fiber absorbs water it expands. So if half the fabric is expanding, and the other half isn’t, the twist of the yarn is weakening. C) A fiber that stretches, with a fiber that doesn’t. The synthetic fibers stretch and retract, the cotton can’t stretch, but will scrunch up when the synthetic retracts- this is what causes pilling, and why fabric gets sheer after pilling- all the cotton is being removed from the twist of the yarn.
The point is, each fibers’ strengths are undone and weaknesses exacerbated by pretty much any other fiber, especially when mixing across the protein/plant/synthetic categories.
Companies want you to buy synthetic fibers and synthetic mixes because they are a hell of a lot cheaper. And also as a form of planned obsolescence. If your jeans pill so much they can’t be repaired every year, then you have to buy new jeans every damn year.
theartofmadeline
titsay
2087
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