This vacation I had the pleasure of spending a month in Belgrade, Serbia. It was one of the best decisions ever! I visited Belgrade for a few days in the winter last year and I must say, my first impression left a lot to be desired. It was so uninhabitably cold that I never wanted to leave the cozily heated indoors and when I did venture outside, like a crazy person, there was literally never a soul on the street. Everyone else knew better than to try and brave the arctic tundra like weather. So, this year I visited at the beginning of Fall and it was absolutely a different experience. The weather was lovely and cool, but sunny and so much more enjoyable.
I was able to genuinely experience Belgrade this time around and I must admit I fell in love.
I rented an awesome Air BnB Apartment on Gavrila Principa (Thank you, Iva!). I got comfortable and was able to truly feel like a local. I wrote a previous post about my food experience, as I am vegan and was told I was going to have issues with this. I did not! Belgrade is totally accommodating to Plant Based Foodies!!
Anyhow, let’s get down to it, some of my Belgrade must see and do’s:
1. Kalamegdan: is of course the top of everyone’s Belgrade list and for a reason. The views and strolls of the old fort are fantastic! You absolutely must go for sunset for one of the most breathtaking experiences. Then head over to Boho Bar a super cool/funky outdoor café, for a coffee or beer. This is when time of year is important as Boho is only open during warm weather months and it actually closed in the beginning of October, so I am super glad I was able to check it out before it closed up shop for the winter!
2. Skadarlija Street/ Boho Quarter: is a small street with a bunch of really cute restaurants, cafes, and shops. It “dates back to late 19th and early 20th century. It was back then when its kafane (taverns and restaurants) were a meeting place for many of the greatest figures of the cultural scene of the period. It is often compared with the Montmartre in Paris, both for its appearance and the cheerful, vigorous artists' atmosphere.” It is an awesome place to grab a coffee at a café and enjoy it alfresco on the cobblestone street.
3. Right next to Skadarlija is Cetinjska Street 15 Art District: which, “from the outside it seems like a huge parking lot. But once you go in and pass by the car wash, you will find yourself in the midst of some really cool bars. This place is located in a complex of a converted beer factory.” The bars do double duty as Art Galleries and they have all kinds of live music and spoken word events. This was such a unique gem in this city and I went to Polet (a bar/gallery) in the back of the complex on several occasions. It is an opportunity to really get to experience the artsy vibe and underground scene in Belgrade.
4. Savamala/ Belgrade Waterfront: “Savamala is being promoted as the heart of Belgrade’s new wave of cultural activity, as the creative entrepreneur’s based there work together to redefine the wider image of the city…” This area appears to be the topic of much debate for the locals as there is a lot of change and gentrification going on which always is a hot topic in any city, but for a tourist this area is fantastic!! The strolls are wonderful and full of things to see and do. The walk along the river has trendy bars, cafes, and food trucks. If you are visiting Belgrade I recommend staying in this neighborhood and really exploring all of its streets and new cool venues. Also, check out the cool Barka Bars on the River! I suggest Zappa Barka for some live music and a Rock and Roll vibe!
5. The Contemporary Art Museum: just re-opened its doors after ten years and it is right along the river. The venue and surrounding area is beautiful and the collection of Yugoslavian Contemporary Art is fantastic!
6. The local beer scene is still evolving in the area, but if you are craving a craft beer after a day exploring this electric city, check out Samo Pivo. “The JUST BEER! project is that Belgrade and Serbia should finally have a place entirely dedicated to beer and all beer brands available in Serbia, and improving the culture of drinking this popular beverage.” This is a chill and rather large venue with tons of local brews on draft and bottled imports! A must!
I am really infatuated with Belgrade and can’t wait to get back. I hope you find this artsy vegan girls guide to some of the best spots in Belgrade helpful on your exploration of this unbelievably awesome city. Pick a few weeks (not in the winter) and go spend some time amongst these electric streets and locals. The vibe here is on a high frequency. This city is on the verge of something new and fresh and it is definitely worth the visit!
