In at the Deep End - Niseko, Hokkaido, Japan
Remember all those daydreams we had about those perfect bluebird powder days? The storm has come and gone over night, dropping thirty centimetres plus of that light fluffy stuff we crave. We hit the slopes early and we’re met with knee deep pow that splashes up to our faces after every turn. The adrenalines rushing, the hollas are echoing, the thighs are burning but we don’t care – this is the greatest day of our lives right?!
I know, I have these daydreams for weeks before an upcoming ski trip. Now let’s be honest, it’s a very rare thing when these musings are met with reality. Often a bluebird pow day is met with frustrating lift lines, tracked out tree runs and most of the alpine closed for avalanche risk.
Now what if I told you there was a place where all these dreams can come true? What if I told you of a mystical land where storms swoop in and the lightest, fluffiest and driest snow in the world drops day in and day out? A place where there is no alpine to close, and lift lines are non-existent, so much so it feels like the mountain is yours. Fresh lines of thigh deep snow will be there for slaying throughout the day, not just for the early bird risers. I welcome you to…Japow…I mean Japan.
I wonder if twenty years ago the likes of McConkey, Coombs and Jones ever foresaw a time an annual pilgrimage to Japan was a necessity. In fact I wonder if they ever identified Japan as a viable ski destination. Japan and its resorts on the north island of Hokkaido have cemented themselves deeply on every skier’s must-ski list.
Make Niseko your first destination for skiing in Japan. Take a two hour flight North from Tokyo to Sapporo followed by a further two hour bus journey to arrive in Japan’s most well-known ski resort. Made popular by frequent Australians who like to ski, but don’t enjoy the jetlag from visiting North America and Europe, Niseko has an increasing Australian influence with hostels, chalet hire and ski rental shops often owned and run by Aussies. Here, the language barrier isn’t an issue, there are high quality skis and snowboards available whether you are a beginner or fancy delving in to the backcountry with avalanche equipment. Be sure to check out Rhythm Snow Sports for your ski hire.
Elsewhere in the village, there are various restaurants that offer everything from pizza, sushi, ramen and French cuisine. My favourite; a small ramen restaurant down a side street in Upper Hirafu Village, Niseko Ramen Kazahana – so good I visited it twice and ordered the Spicy Niseko Ramen both times.
Now, the skiing. Believe everything you’ve heard; yes its deep, no it doesn’t stop.
The snow is like no other I have experienced. After spending a season in Whistler Blackcomb with clouds coming off the Pacific Ocean and bringing with it thick, heavy and wet snow, the snow in Niseko could not be more different. Here, the storms are blown over from Siberia in the West dropping the driest and fluffiest powder you are ever likely to experience. The ease you are met with as you carve in sometimes thigh-deep snow means you can go for longer, harder and bigger. Face shots galore, and you’ll never get sick of admiring your powder beard in the mirror.
The logistics of Niseko are fairly simple, split into four separate ski areas – Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village, Hanazono and Annupuri – all share a common lift pass, be sure to pay for this, each area are quite small so you will want to have the opportunity to venture where you wish. Personally my favourites where the two towards the outer regions of the resort, Hanazono and Annupuri. If you’re interested in backcountry, dip under the area boundary, slip on your skins and head out past Annupuri Peak where you will be deeply rewarded, oh and I mean seriously deeply rewarded, with vast areas of bowls, treeless powder runs and backcountry trees. If trees are your thing, then head to the other side to Hanazono and venture out away from the resort again and have fun in the trees, combined with some fun terrain. Be prepared to skin or hike out here. If you still have some energy left after a day playing in the snow or perhaps you slept in, then fear not, floodlit night skiing is available in Grand Hirafu. Incredibly there was still some powder to be found, a whole new experience in itself.
Day trips to other resorts in the area are also available for a fee (transport and lift pass) including Rusutsu. For all you ski nerds, you will know that Rusutsu is another up and coming resort, already made famous by Salomon’s YouTube coverage during their Freeski series. Rusutsu is famous for its side country park. Possibly the strangest resort I have visited, at the base of the hill lies an amusement park and a Ferris wheel with marshmallows of snow sitting atop each carriage giving the whole feel of Rusutsu an air of unreality. Rusustu makes you feel like you have stumbled upon a secret wonderland that only few know about it, the resort is deserted, the air haunting but the snow, you guessed it, powder city. Rusutsu is a powder haven; a sanctuary of perfectly-spaced trees, empty chairlifts and a unique side country playground.
Niseko is an already established resort and will continue to grow rapidly in size and popularity among us Westerners - it has the beginnings of becoming a top world resort. My advice, visit now before it becomes that. Niseko has character, it doesn’t yet have the off-mountain distractions (or to some attractions) of high fashion outlets selling the latest winter gear, or fine food restaurants, or a large hotel chain stamping its corporate foot over what is a charming and intimate resort. Right now in Niseko it is simple, no distraction, just one attraction: snow.
Ski/Snowboard Hire: http://skihirejapan.com/rhythm-niseko/rhythm-niseko/
Chalet Hire: http://www.nisekocountryresort.com/
Niseko Ski Resort: http://www.niseko.ne.jp/en/
Rusutsu: http://rusutsu.co.jp/winter/
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