“People who grew up on a stone hill beneath such an exciting panorama cannot be but the broad of gesture, stormy of temperament and of changing mood. These people, who stay in their city despite everything, even as history destroys and crumbles it, covering the land with layers of leaves and remnants of previous settlements and past civilizations, such people are capable of building their city anew, in a relaxed and unpretentious way; they are capable of building a city of human proportions. It is not as comfortable as a friendly pub; the enormity, but binds its visitors forever with a hundred invisible threads. An aerial picture of Belgrade shows - as clear as the palm of your hand - its past, present and future. Belgrade's palm has calluses and scars: it gives a firm, friendly handshake; it has the strength of a dangerous fist, the softness of a caress. Its fingers are roads leading into wider world - ancient roads, imperial roads, rural paths and tracks, highways - and long white streams that cut across the sky. Life-line: long and frequently intersected with the scars of war. [...] Where is the heart of Belgrade? It is everywhere and nowhere. It hides in the refined nonchalance of shoe cleaners on the streets, who say "Give me as much as you want!", in the philosophically balanced relaxation of old men who have lived trough so many wars; in the morning joke that breaks the gloomy mood of office-bound workers in trolley bus 11; in the friendship of waiters who happily sit down for a glass of beer with their guests at the Cubura restaurant; in the hustle and bustle of streets in which you rarely feel like a stranger, regardless of where you come from; in the beauty of the graffiti on walls that no one ever paints, graffiti that resembles a touching fresco of street destines, loves, swear words, insults, witticism, foot-ball results, names...”