Drink Guide: Local small bars along Naka-dori in Koenji
No doubt that there are lots of stylish places to drink at in Japan but if you want a more enjoyable, local experience, look no further, here is one local tip: head to Koenji for some small bar hopping and maybe you can even squeeze in a gig.
Koenji is a vibrant town on the main Chuo Rapid Line (orange line on the JR Railway Map), it's two stations from Shinjuku on the Chuo Rapid Line. On weekends though the Chuo Rapid doesn't run so you need to take the yellow Sobu line. It's best known as the birthplace of punk in Tokyo and its vintage shops. There are also a lot of little joints that serve good food and coffee, and fun small bars. There are also lots of funky shops down Koenji Pal (the shopping street or Shōtengai in the JR Koenji South Exit area.
In this post I've featured some small bars Nakadori (Central Road) in the JR Koenji North Exit area. You'll also spot a lot of Okinawan style izakaya (resto-pubs) in this area. Any restaurant with these blue-red-white lanterns outside or a red banner saying Orion is most likely serve Okinawan-style food. (Orion is a beer brand.)
Yakusyu Bar Koenji (薬酒bar 高円寺)
Some of the best memories filed in my Random Memory Archive happened in Koenji: walking up narrow steps on top of a closed shop thinking it was a bar only to happen upon a bar - and more! We opened the door and were instantly huddled up against the bar where the barman asks if we're locals (to which of course we answer yes) and were then magically thrown into the jam-packed shoebox of a room. There were people in costume, it was some guy's birthday, and the DJs spinning were girls in skimpy outfits that screamed Gentleman's Club x Miami rave party x cosplay. (Their music was also actually pretty rad.)
That happened in a place called Yakushu Bar Kōenji, which is a 2 minute walk from the JR Kōenji Station. This small space has different events ranging from House Music and Wine Night, Hong Kong Movie Nights, Jimi Hendrix Nights to Electro Nights, and there's almost always something going on whether it be a Monday or a Wednesday. It's best to go on a busy night (a Tuesday or Friday perhaps) if you enjoy crowds (ie, being squished against other people or talking to random locals).
The schedule is here and you'll see how much the cover charge is (anywhere from $5 to $15 includes 1 drink most of the time). The line up is always interesting with a mix of small DJs and big venue DJs. I'm happy to answer questions if you need help deciphering the schedule.
At JR Koenji Station, when you exit the turnstiles head towards the left exit (North Exit) and you'll spot a McDonald's. Walk towards the McDonald's and just past it you'll spot the little shopping street called 'Central Road' (there will be a Mizuho ATM and KFC to your left.) Walk past the dodgy illegal-looking 'pleasure booths' and you'll find small bars and restaurants left and right. A few doords down from the start of Central Road you'll find Yakusyu Bar will be on your left side on top of a little restaurant called New Burg (burger steak place). Just through the fake plant-decorated door frame and up the stairs.
After Hours 2005 (アフターアワーズ２００５）
After Hours (A-fu-ta-a-WA-zu) is a standing bar right at the corner of the street opposite Yakusyu bar. The doors are all open on summer nights to let the breeze in, and it's nice and cozy during winter. This is a good place to grab a quick drink or perhaps hang out in if you're a new Koenji resident!
Drinks are around $3 (wine) to $6 (cocktails) and there's some bar food for around the same price.
If you're down for a more proper sit-down izakaya, head to Enji-ya. They specialise in seafood, from grilled to sashimi (single serve of sashimi start from $5) to chirashi don (rice bowl topped with sashimi). Other dishes (salads, etc) start from $3 upwards. The food is good and the seafood is fresh - the dishes are also very pretty.
Drinks are around the $5 mark with wine, beer, sake, Japanese whiskey, and cocktails. When ordering cold sake you can choose on the rocks (ROK-ku), mixed with water (mi-zu-wa-RI), mixed with soda (sō-da-wa-RI), or mixed with anything (anything-wa-ri).
Although when I say sit-down I don't think they actually do have chairs. The atmosphere is nice and very izakaya-like. Be careful though if you're allergic to smoke ask to be sat by the door or beside people not smoking since there is no non-smoking section.
From the start of Naka-dori, walk further up the road. You'll pass a Family Mart convenience store to your left, from there it's two more streets down the road on the left side. It's sort of on the other end of the street, you'll notice the street grow more quiet.
If you want to check out more bars, here is a complete map guide to the Naka-dori area. Just click on the shop names to find out more.
