Colombo to Ella: A Sri Lankan Rail Tale
From bright red carriages to the lush greenery of the hills, the click-clacking of the trainâs wheels to the piercing note of its horn, and from the warmth of the city to the invigorating coolness of higher ground - travelling Sri Lankaâs underrated railways into the hill country is an experience one should not let slip.Â
Feeling somewhat lost in a crowded sea of people that was the Fort Railway Station with my Exporail ticket to Ella in-hand, I boarded a crowded train with anticipation fuelled by the good things many had said about the hill country. Warm smiles greeted me as I stepped into the carriage and was led by the crew into a spacious cabin that was air conditioned, lined with luxurious-looking seats and graced by two LCD TVs. The cushioned seats were fit for maharajas â they had ample leg space, a foldable table for meals and a plug point for passengers to recharge devices. These are luxuries for any traveller on rail, especially in a 9-hour haul from Colombo to Ella. The train pushed ahead on time, gathering speed through the heat and bustle of Colombo with a pleasant welcome message looping on the TVs.
There were a few Chinese businessmen onboard, a sight reflective of growing diplomatic and economic ties between Sri Lanka and the Asian superpower. This group, I later found out, were the commissioned builders of the railway networkâs expansion plans. Against an increasingly green and untouched landscape of sweeping paddy fields, and the occasional jam-packed road crossings, a light breakfast was served â fresh and appetising pastry rounded up with a cup of coffee. The folding table deserves special mention: it was far from ornamental and held the meal with little to no mess. Service by the cabin crew was polished, hospitable and there was an air of comfort among the passengers. Unlike the networkâs government-run trains, Exporail is a privately owned company that prides itself on luxurious comfort, drawing well-to-do tourists and working professionals.
A glimpse of everyday life
Almost two hours later at the Ambepussa Station, I witnessed for the first time an exchange of train engines in the middle of a journey. Having swiftly communicated with the train captain, the cabin crew informed the passengers of the delay â most of whom had gathered at the front of the carriage and down on the railway track for a smoke and to take photographs of the station. Speaking to the crew, I learnt that the engine had to be substituted because the current one lacked climbing capacity. Many of the networkâs trains, although well-maintained, have been in commission for decades. The situation though was far from one of anxiety and worry â it was dealt with in an almost rehearsed, docile manner. The bald imposing silhouette of the station master, as he stood commandingly in a starched-white uniform with gleaming black shoes overlooking progress against the mid-day sun painted a telling picture, replete with the essence of everyday life on the railway. The stationâs Colonial-British architecture served a picture-perfect backdrop for the scene, with an overhead bridge just metres away marking the spot to take it all in.
 A heated pack of chicken briyani and a bottle of water was served with a reassuring smile by the crew for lunch in good time. The size of the serving was just as satisfying as it tasted, rich with the local flavour and considerately spicy, well in tune with Sri Lankaâs staple dish, that is rice and curry. By then, Colombo already felt like a distant past as the train continued its steady ascend into the hills. Marked by a sweeping view of evergreen tea plantations and the occasional white fortresses of tea factories, the coolness of the hill country beckoned with warm hellos. A century and a half ago, this breathtaking landscape drove one of the worlds largest coffee exports, but the British turned to tea following a devastating leaf plague. And so it comes as little surprise that it was for tea and coffee that the colonial rulers built a railway network that stretched deep into the âup countryâ, as the locals call it.
I was gently interrupted by the cabin crew at one point as I stood marvelling at the lush greenery from the observation area and was informed of an upcoming waterfall on the other side of the train. Saint Clairâs Fall was a sight to behold as it came into view, flowing with reverent grace at the heart of a breathtaking panorama. Not long after, I was notified by the crew as the train clacked past the Upper Kothmale Dam, a water source crucial for the surrounding land yet debated over its impact on the natural ecosystem. Admittedly, it stood out like a sore thumb in what was otherwise an serene terrain. A heavy drizzle that began shortly before did little to repel the eager passengers as they posed and smiled for self-portraits with the hills in the observation area. I recall a moment gazing out into a vast, fading image of the hill country that stretched out into the misty horizon - the clouds were coloured a warm, crimson red by the setting sun. It was truly a humbling sight to behold. Â
The train climbed slowly but surely up the hill country and the drizzle subsided as nightfall started to creep in. Having just woken from a restful nap, the fresh coolness of the observatory area served a tempting proposition but I was hit by an unexpected cold upon stepping out - in the hour or two or passed, the temperature had dropped considerably. Again, I was warmly informed by the cabin crew of the rapid climate change that takes place during the ascend and well-prepared for the passing of a wooden signage that marks the highest point of Sri Lankaâs railway network, at 1909 metres above sea level.
By nightfall and with Ella on fast approach â after multiple visits to the carriageâs washroom, a blockbuster movie, plenty of reading and an added layer of clothing, I found myself seated alone in the observatory with the windâs brisk cold caressing my face as I trained my sight on the focus of the trainâs headlights cut through the imposing woods. With the other passengers asleep by then, I had the privilege of conversing freely with the ever-present cabin crew, over sweet Kandyan pastry. A perfect icing to the cake for what turned out to be an incredible, wholesome journey of the senses. I arrived at Ella in good time and high spirits, bidding the crew an enthusiastic goodbye and a quiet hello to the charming town.
More photographs from the journey can be found here -Â http://sengchonglim.tumblr.com
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