Reblogging so everyone sees
My blog numbers are wayyyyy off the norm, and I have that feature shut off.
Mine too.
I don’t see the majority of my notes, things are really messed up.

Product Placement
Stranger Things

No title available
taylor price

⁂
2025 on Tumblr: Trends That Defined the Year
h
Sweet Seals For You, Always
occasionally subtle
AnasAbdin
NASA
let's talk about Bridgerton tea, my ask is open

#extradirty
TVSTRANGERTHINGS
noise dept.
Mike Driver
I'd rather be in outer space 🛸
ojovivo
Cosimo Galluzzi
Monterey Bay Aquarium
seen from Israel
seen from Brazil

seen from Brazil

seen from United States
seen from United States
seen from Türkiye
seen from Poland
seen from United States
seen from United States
seen from Belgium

seen from United States
seen from United States

seen from Malaysia

seen from United States
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seen from Chile
seen from Italy
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seen from France
seen from France
@ace-costumes
Reblogging so everyone sees
My blog numbers are wayyyyy off the norm, and I have that feature shut off.
Mine too.
I don’t see the majority of my notes, things are really messed up.
Heat Transfer Vinyl
Okay dudes I wanna teach you some magic today. I get a LOT of questions about what I use for designs on my Zelda costume as well as on my Matt Miller jacket. You can buy it on eBay pretty easily. I get mine here.
This stuff looks amazing and it’s SO CLEAN when you apply it. It also isn’t overly shiny, so it looks pretty great on most fabrics, which is why I prefer it to painting fabric. SO here is how the stuff works:
Heat transfer vinyl has two sides—a glossy and a matte side. You’re going to want to draw your design on the matte side, as that’s where it has the adhesive.
Draw your design and cut it out.
Place it matte side down, glossy side up on the fabric you’re using.
Iron! I put my iron on the highest setting just to be sure it sticks but some times this can warp the vinyl if you’re not careful. You’ll want to go over it a few times.
Peel off the glossy side and bam! You’re done and you have a kickass design on your fabric!
;_; so perf
Reblogging because I’m p sure @azimedes has just saved my butt when it comes to all the bamboo designs on Ranmaru’s kataginu and hakama hooooboy.
Hello! Apparently, in April of 2013, there was a video of someone modeling a tail that was black and white striped. It moved very well when the person in the video walked and I was wondering if you could direct me towards a tutorial on how to make such a tail. Thank you!
Oh heck, I only ever check tumblr on my phone, so I missed this until today when I had to log in to the website to use a submit form. And I have no idea how long ago it was sent.
Yeah, that person in the video is me. :> A friend of mine shot the footage, and uploaded it to my youtube account for me, unedited (cringe). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96yg9yRQPj8
All the tutorial info I have available is linked to in the description of the video. I’ve had more requests for a comprehensive video tutorial. Maybe someday, but I have no setup for, or experience with making videos.
For @lofrequency aka @milokeen , to whom I semi-promised a cat picture an age ago and then forgot about it. Welcome to a clearer, happier mindspace. :D May it be full of giant robo and cats~
it’s important to master blood magic and necromancy, so you can make use of the whole body
environmentally sustainable black magic
Remember, Necromancy is really just Advanced Recycling
darn tootin’.
Tutorial time! :D How to tint your Transpa Art for all kinds of coloured visors, starring Tracer’s goggles. Transpa Art is from Minque <3 <3 If you have any questions, that are not answered in the explanation below, then don’t hesitate to ask!
Keep reading
How to take a level in wigworking: six starting tips
Wigworking is weird! It’s intimidating to a lot of people, and one of the last skills that some cosplayers learn, even after tough things like patterning and armormaking. I have friends who will turn away from cosplays because the wig looks too challenging, or they have no clue how to tackle it. It’s really interesting thing to see now that I’ve been tapped as the new “wig person” in our cosplay group, which happened after coming in second place in Iron Wig 2015:
Here’s a secret though: a year ago I was really not that great with wigs.
The truth is, learning how to work with wigs is really no different than learning how to work with fabric or props or armor. It’s intimidating at first but something everyone can learn if you’re willing to put in the time and make a few mistakes! Here are six of my suggestions for where to start:
1) Do your research. In my opinion this is FAR AND AWAY the most important step in any attempt to improve your cosplay. And no, doing your research does not mean asking a friend how they made something before calling it a day. Read a tutorial! Watch a video! Read multiple tutorials because lots of folks have different ideas for how to make the same thing, and one may just click better with you. For instance, there are lots of ways to cover foam with hair. You should consider the pros/cons of each method, and then make your own game plan. If plan A doesn’t work for you, try plan B.
In 2014 I had no idea how to splice a wig, ventilate, make spikes, make a glued hairline, use foam cleanly, or dye with anything other than a sharpie. I did all of this stuff in Iron Wig, but only because I watched a ludicrous amount of tutorials beforehand to learn how. There are tutorials out there for just about everything, so don’t be afraid to look for them! Here’s a few big lists that I’ve come across:
Arda-wigs.com’s huge list of tutorials
Cosplaytutorial.com’s compilation
Epiccosplay’s tutorials
2) Take the time to experiment. You’ve watched your tutorials and are feeling pretty confident - but before you chop up your perfect character wig, make sure you test your theory out on a scrap wig if possible, especially if you are cutting or using glue. Nothing is more frustrating than realizing that you miscalculated and have fudged your wig, so try to keep old damaged wigs around for occasions like this.
3) Go slow. This is absurdly important and something I have a hard time with. If you are using foam or gluing, you really need to take your time, especially if you are learning. Gluing and laying fiber is unforgiving unless you are working exclusively with got2b or hairspray - once that hair is glued down it is stuck forever. It might take you three hours to glue hair over that one strip of foam, but it will look beautiful in the end. Save the breakneck speed for after you have the technique down.
4) Make sure you have enough hair. This is something I did not realize at first, and I am very careful about it now. An easy to make your work cleaner and cut down on flyaways is to make sure that ALL of your fiber reaches to the end of your spike or structure. Imagine that you are laying a spike over a cone of foam. Now imagine that most of the hair reaches to the cone tip, but some of that hair is layered and not quite long enough - some of the fiber only reaches 3/4th of the way up the cone . Because you can’t secure that shorter hair to the cone tip, it could pop loose as flyaways. It’s possible to glue every flyaway down, but this becomes harder the more complicated your shape is. Similarly, if are spending a lot of time trying to conserve hair because you may not have enough, your project is going to be tougher and potentially messier than it needs to be. Always make sure you are buying a long enough wig, or that your wefting fiber’s shortest layer is long enough for your project.
5) Invest in supplies. You need a blowdryer! You need little scissors! You need a wighead! Go get them! Just like you wouldn’t try to sew without straightpins, you shouldn’t expect to have a great time making a wig without the proper tools. Technically I’m sure you could manage, but a lot of this guide is about making your life easy so that you finish up with a good product that didn’t make you want to pull your real hair out. I would recommend purchasing all of the above, plus got2b, tacky glue, a hot glue gun, clips (duckbills are awesome), and a straight iron if you can manage it.
6) Don’t be afraid to try new projects! I really think that hesitation is what stops a lot of cosplayers from advancing their wig skills. Wigs aren’t cheap - a $40 mistake is an awful lot to stomach. Plus, with so many pre-made styles now, most characters aren’t going to require a really over the top wig so there’s not a ton of opportunities to go big and flex your wigmaking muscles. But if that character with the huge hair does pique your interest, don’t be afraid to take it on. If you give yourself enough time and do your research, you may surprise yourself with just what you can learn to make. Remember, your skills won’t advance until you’re willing to actually try to make something!
80. Seamus den Hollander
I normally don’t ask for this, but there’s some pretty sweet prizes to be won. I’ve entered my Gargoyle costume in a local fantasy & cosplay contest. I know it might look scary because the page is in Dutch, but all you have to do is follow the link, and press the like button on the photo. (Sorry, so sorry, it’s Facebook.)
Thanks for voting and/or sharing. :)
First time trying out the new FormX home brand silicone rubber (without pigment) for mold making. ... #nocomment
Riftstalker helmet progress. (Slow progress is slow.) Also, Monster Clay is the best clay. Just saying.
PASSWORD: STARSHIPS
One of the best fanvids I’ve ever seen.
And when she says ‘one of the best […] EVER’ (emphasis mine), lemme tell ya: it’s really, really true.
hey
hey you there
following me
stop
stop what you’re doing
and watch
oh my god
my life
my entire fucking life
someone understands
W A T C H T H E T H I N G
If you haven’t seen this, your life is about to get so much better. If you have, I assume you will watch it again because it is impossible to watch this video too many times. Watch it NOW.
This is, hands down, my favorite fanvid.
I send this thing to people who don’t know fanvids, and they love it.
reblogging myself because every day should be Rewatch Starships Day
This was glorious.
always reblog Starships
^^^^ always reblog Starships
always
I can now sometimes watch this without crying but only sometimes. Also recommended: the black and white remix version with classic golden age SF.
I’ll admit that I just teared up….
yeah, i can’t get through it without crying
For those who are planning to start sewing their own cosplays this year this might be helpful: How to take measurements! Waist Front / Waist Back: http://www.sempstress.org/measurement/measuring-the-waist-frontback-waist/ How to Take Measurements: http://makinglatexclothing.com/2008/12/how-to-take-measurements/ Instructions for Taking Measurements: http://mangakaresource.weebly.com/1/post/2011/01/sewing-measurements.html
SUPER HELPFUL
Quick rant about thermoplastics for cosplay.
Hello fellow cosplayers. Got some cool stuff you may or may not know about.
For most of us, we all know of Worbla right? It’s pretty neat stuff. All the big name cosplayers always promote it and use it for their cosplays, such as Yaya Han and Kamui Cosplay. They all are fantastic cosplayers and make amazing stuff with it. Not here to talk about them specifically but I’m here to talk about worbla a bit.
Most of you have used it I’m sure if you’ve ever dealt with an armor cosplay or piece of armor for a cosplay. Its nifty and works really well. But as we all know, it’s a bitch to smooth it out completely. Usually you use multiple layers of wood glue, mod podge, or if you’re a risk taker, bondo. But either way, its annoying and you can’t completely get it as smooth as can be. If you haven’t heard about it, please give TerraFlex a shot. It’s a thermoplastic made by Tandy Leather (click to link to the store to buy it.) It’s essentially Worbla but in my opinion, loads different.
TerraFlex does all the same things Worbla does. It has a rougher side and a smooth, glossy glue side. But right off the bat, the rough side is significantly smoother than the rough side on Worbla. That helps cut on the times you need to layer a sealer to help smooth it down. It can also be reworked a billion times like Worbla too. TerraFlex also is thicker and much less transparent than worbla when heated and applied to foam or other things. That may not be as big of an issue to some because obviously you are painting it later, but i just feel it makes it look nicer than Worbla. When working on a recent commission, I ran out of TerraFlex and went back to Worbla scraps I had, it felt the pieces with Worbla didn’t come out as nicely as the ones with Terraflex and I noticed myself applying more layers of sealer on it to make it look just as nice. Also adding more sealer, (wood glue, etc) makes it heavier so for some, the lighter the better. It also forms neater and in my opinion molds faster and cleaner. and you can easily smooth rough edges with it.
Here is an example of a set of swords I’ve made for a commission using EVA foam and Terraflex.
Now here’s the kicker. Tandy Leather is a well-known chain (I guess?) What I mean by that is you can potentially find Terraflex in your hometown somewhere! I have a Terraflex less than 5 miles away from me and boy is that convenient for finishing up props for cosplays. And also for a size similar to Worbla’s medium, you can get it for 20 dollars, but that varies I suppose. I’ve gone in and paid only 20 for a sheet, and sometimes, I pay more. not sure why but nonetheless. Worbla in a medium sheet is normally 38 dollars and while shipping is free from cosplaysupplies.com, you still have to wait for it. Big difference. Now I still dont know if you can get larger rolls but most stores have it in stock. Also at Youmacon, there was a booth for Tandy Leather at the con and they had Terraflex in stock, so even they know along with their leather products, this is a game changer.
So that’s the end of my rant. Terraflex is amazing, pretty inexpensive, and can potentially be found locally. I am for sure using this exclusively for as long as I live in my area, but even then I will be ordering if I can. Give it a shot next time you need some prop work or armor done!
(Quick PSA for UK/Europe(?) - Terraflex is a bit more expensive than Worbla here at over double the price going by the most popular retailers without membership.)
Thanks for adding this for the others internationally
CHAINMAIL HACK!!!
1. Cover bodysuit/fabric in fishnets! 2. Spray paint silver!! 3. Remove fishnet 4. PROFIT!!
How to make use of a Duct Tape Dummy!
Welcome, I’m here to give you tips on making use of a duct tape dummy in a way that will help you make a perfectly fitted fursuit costume for yourself or someone from afar. If you are making a costume for yourself, a duct tape dummy is a luxury that is not required, since you are physically there for fittings! But it can absolutely be nice to see how things fit and physically manipulate them in front of you without having to rely on a reflection.
Keep reading
Want to know about dying or tinting TranspArt, Friendly Plastic or DecoArt? I dyed TranspArt with iDye Poly to get a mix of yellow, orange and red for a handheld flame prop - you can use this to dye gems, visors, or anything else you need!
Tutorials can be found here:
Making a Handheld Flame Dying TranspArt and Friendly Plastic (DecoArt)
As always, signal boosting is appreciated!
Pants! The parts are in various stages of smoothing / priming, so couldn't put them on the DTD for the last photo. This is really the point where you start to notice the armor's design is just a texture on a rig, and no effort had been made to fit it to human movement. (And I haven't even started on the shoulders yet.) >< Had to make some adjustments, but it probably won't be very noticable when everything's put together. For anyone wondering what that brown gunk is: I use an MDF filler directly on Worbla, just smoothing it out with my fingers, before priming it with anything else. It cures very hard but remains somewhat flexible, sands very well, and holds any kind of paint. If there is still any unevenness after a layer of paint, I switch to a plaster wall filler, as the MDF filler doesn't hold on paint very well. (And the reason I use a filler instead of just more worbla, is that some shapes just get too complex, and once a piece is finally in the right shape, I don't want to risk re-heating it again.)