I have declared that the ear is now feature-complete, and ready to print.
(this preview has a large cut taken out of the corner to expose the inner mechanics)
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@glowingskull
I have declared that the ear is now feature-complete, and ready to print.
(this preview has a large cut taken out of the corner to expose the inner mechanics)
Done:
Dye test of new boots: negatory.
purchase spraypaint
cut, baste, sew epaulettes
sew shoulder seams
Revise lower jaw for fewer print problems
design ear covers
design+print connection of 3M H700 to main ear joint
In progress:
new boot goofin'
cut, baste, sew cuffs
To do:
print, metal ankle guards
metal, glue, paint, greeble new hand guard
cut, baste, sew waist
design, cut, baste, sew hood
design, print wings and head for U-Beast; paint U-Beast
design, print, stitch arm guards
finish designing greaves; print, metal, paint, attach
helmet:
revise lower jaw for fewer print problems
design upper forehead
design crown of head
design or source antenna
test fans
mock fans, test locations
design back of head
painting
magnets
badge ribbons
explanation cards
design reference/explanation for judges
Five weeks left.
It is *imperative* that the cylinders remain coaxial.
It is very satisfying when a 14-hour print comes out correctly-sized on the first print. Hooray for well-developed reference models.
Alolan Acerby Announcement!
I'm releasing my Acerby Kigurumi Mask 1.0 Files!!!!
I hadn't initially planned to release this since it's my first modelling project, but I was surprised by how many supportive comments I got. You can download and use them for free from Cults 3D.
The modular front crest, hood, and hairband can be exchanged with magnets!
Hair parts can be swapped using common ports
Lowerable Visor
Articulated type-C hair
Can clamshells open and securely close using screws and pegs. No need for latches or locks.
I've included just the .stl files and my Blender project because I encourage anyone who wants to improve on my designs (with credit, of course). I'd love to incorporate any feedback or updated parts into my eventual 2.0 version.
My only ask is that you let me see your cool builds!
An Acerby Kigurumi Mask for fans of the 30 Minute Missions and Sisters lines. This is intended to be a type-C, but I've designed this to be
I did set it to 'open priced' since someone asked me to, but you are under no obligation to pay for this. I'm in this for the love of the game, and you should be too.
I've been busy working on the rest of the body, but I've added the eyes since these pictures were taken.
Newly done:
obtain suitcase voluminous enough to hold a body
purchase boots
design and print revised hand guards
design and print heatsink attach points
design and purchase lighting
purchase and build reference model
acquire new printer filament in appropriate colors
design lower jaw
design ankle guards
lose printer uSD card
locate replacement uSD card
format and burn replacement uSD card
start next print
find original printer uSD card
To do:
new boot goofin', break in, dye test
print, metal ankle guards
purchase spraypaint
metal, glue, paint, greeble new hand guards
cut, baste, sew epaulettes
sew shoulder seams
cut, baste, sew cuffs
cut, baste, sew waist
design, cut, baste, sew
design, print wings and head for U-Beast; paint U-Beast
design, print, stitch arm guards
finish designing greaves; print, metal, paint, attach
helmet:
revise lower jaw for fewer print problems
design connection of 3M H700 to lower jaw
design upper forehead
design crown of head
design ear covers
design or source antenna
test fans
mock fans, test locations
design back of head
painting
magnets
badge ribbons
explanation cards
design reference/explanation for judges
Five weeks left.
Pinned and basted the sleeves' shoulder seams.
Shortened the straps on a chest rig, and removed a layer of insulating material so that cold objects in the chest rig will help cool me. That also freed up a large patch of Velcro hooks, which will come in handy later.
Still need to swap the head on my printer from 0.2 back to 0.4, and re-slice some parts, and design some more parts, and also maybe get some more red and metallic filament, but for now everything can be done in white and then later painted blue or grey.
Oh, and I should buy a bigger, hard-sided suitcase. Apparently I'm going to be shipping what amounts to a set of body armor, if I can just finish it in time. The airlines tend to frown on DIY trunks, and I also just don't have the time to build that.
Shopping list for after arriving at the con: Reusable ice packs.
"How's the new coat going?"
"It's topologically complex at the moment, and if I put it on to show you, I'd end up full of holes."
Utopian Coat 3 started as an homage to one specific Japanese painting/print, with some scifi bits from various shows added for fun, to provide a full-face thing for a head.
It has, by dint of aesthetic normalization and simplification, also become an homage to one very specific thing in a very specific setting, to the point that I'm considering describing it no longer as a Utopian Coat, but as a Specific-Thing gijinka.
It's still a Utopian Coat, but it's the coat of a Utopian who really liked this other media property, and might also agree with Humanista with regards to Cool Boots.
6 weeks.
This weekend I hope to:
Make decision on front plackets: overlap, or exposed zipper?
Make sleeves
Baste sleeves
Redo glove covers
Test-print greaves
Fab holder for heatsinks
Test fan wiring
Can't import a scanned image into OpenSSCAD to trace directly, but a fast trace in Inkscape exported as an SVG can be imported into OpenSCAD, then re-traced and modified from there.
Finally stitched the sleeves onto the next coat.
I think I will make this one with zippered sleeves, like its predecessor — unless I make it with Star-Wars-style shortsleeve over long sleeve.
"the next coat" was the dye test, not the real coat.
The shortsleeve over long sleeve seems to be a peculiarity of the Mandalorian flightsuit, but it still looks cool, so I'm adding it to what is stylistically more of a Mobile Suit Gundam Federation-style uniform jacket, then belting it at the waist.
The difference between engineering for serious space hardware and engineering for costumes is that, for costumes, you can release a wearied sigh, pick up the spilled airsoft balls off your kitchen floor, throw them back into the storage bottle, and go redesign your ball-bearing chase.
If you do that with real space hardware, you've just contaminated the entire bottle of $1-per ball bearings.
Finally stitched the sleeves onto the next coat.
I think I will make this one with zippered sleeves, like its predecessor — unless I make it with Star-Wars-style shortsleeve over long sleeve.
Current OpenSCAD setup:
A file which contains all the individual pieces, so that they can share the same global variables, with $preview-only rendering of all the parts in their proper locations
Each part has its own "print-part_name.scad" that exists to load a single part and output it so that a single STL can be rendered from it
Loading whatever files need printing into the slicer, and making lots of one-off slices of random mishmashes of parts
A lot of prints getting canceled partway through because I've seen what I need to see from the print
Current projects:
Utopian Coat 3:
Fit/dye test jacket mostly sewn
Dyeing scheduled for this weekend, I hope
New purchase list items added: sleeve inseam zippers
Utopian Coat 3 Vizor, which is really a collapsible space helmet:
Neck rotation collar fabbed
still need to get some ball bearings
Helmet lower mock designed but not printed
Biggest remaining item is the thing that marries the motorcycle visor to the collapsible helmet louvers
Ball Jointed Mannequin
Wrist ball r3 fabbed; up for wear test
Hand cover r2 designed
Elbow joint rotation sleeves and joint test printing
Note to self: When sewing patch pockets with flaps, turn the flap right-side-out, iron, and top-stitch before doing the same for the pocket. This prevents the pocket from being wider than the flap.
a 2.5mm-thick ABS print at ~15% infill is pretty flexible, when talking about objects measured in tens of centimeters, so be sure to note that down