You can eat any mushroom...once.
(Happy 2nd year anniversary to ISAT!)

Jimmy Eat World
🪼
ojovivo
YOU ARE THE REASON

❣ Chile in a Photography ❣

blake kathryn
Monterey Bay Aquarium
Phantogram Three
art blog(derogatory)
Today's Document

Game Changer & Make Some Noise
hello vonnie
tumblr dot com

shark vs the universe
NASA
𓃗
cherry valley forever
occasionally subtle

@theartofmadeline
d e v o n
seen from France

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seen from Germany
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seen from Colombia
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@jaded-ambivalence
You can eat any mushroom...once.
(Happy 2nd year anniversary to ISAT!)
DJ ROTOM IS REAL !!!!!
im gay
I like minun a lot :)
(and plusle is cool too I guess)
Learning new techniques with hornet
They put doomed yaoi in my bug game
who’s your favourite villain team?
46 hours and 21 minutes canvas time plus countless hours learning to draw in this style, I’m so happy either way the results!
here are some closeups for higher quality!
who’s your favourite villain team?
46 hours and 21 minutes canvas time plus countless hours learning to draw in this style, I’m so happy either way the results!
[wip] 25 hours, 44 minutes to finish this lineart… not looking forward to colouring ;-;
The culmination of several months of studies focusing on pokemon art styles
working on something big, been practicing the Pokemon style for like 2 months straight
Jelly
Excited for pokemon presents
I would love to know what kind of brushes you use for your Pokemon a day drawings if you're willing to share? I find them to be a huge inspiration and would love to study them as a beginner artist
Absolutely! I'll break the process down real quick. I use Clip Studio Paint and mostly default brushes, but you can probably replicate the brush I use for inking in any program.
For sketching I tend to use brushes that don't work with pressure (i.e. the default no-pressure round brush that must be called "Marker" in english or some variation of it, but in lower opacity), but recently I've been having a lot of fun sketching with this one - https://assets.clip-studio.com/es-es/detail?id=1917613 / The reason for this is so that I don't put too much pressure on my hand when sketching, and it's been doing wonders as someone who draws A LOT.
For lineart I use a modded version of the default G-Pen, basically: minimum brush pressure is set to 15, so that the lines at the end aren't completely tapered; speed is turned on just because I like that a lot in my sketching/inking brushes, gives some extra sauce and will help you in your arm movements (not just hand movements! When sketching and inking it is recommended that you draw with your whole arm, it takes a while to learn but ultimately it'll lead to less hand and arm pain and smoother inking), and I like to keep my stylus pressure lower for this kind of thing. This is what works best for me, but I'd totally recommend you or anyone to mess with the settings until you find something that clicks with you. I don't use a ton of stabilization either, usually between 5-15.
For coloring I use the bucket tool, a BIG round airbrush or the gradient tool, and the lasso tool. I have all my flats in one layer and then I make 2 layers for shading and 2 layers for light. I use the lasso tool to fill in the shadows as it's pretty fast for me and it's healthier for my hand (no need for pressure!). Here's the settings for those layers:
Purple layers are the shading, the first layer is set to 40% opacity and the second one is set to 45%, both of them are set to the "Normal" blending mode. Normally, I'd use a "Multiply" layer for shading, but for these I use "Normal" and just lower the opacity and choose colors that are darker and more saturated than the base colors (i.e. if I'm shading Pikachu, I'll choose a dark red-pink overall, and then I'll go in and change the shading of the cheeks to a dark purple). I'll create a mask for the second layer using the first layer and then I'll have a gradient coming from below to add more "depth", this second layer just adds more depth, overall.
Yellow layers are the lights, I have them set at 30% opacity, one of them is set to "Overlay" and the other one is set to "Normal". I do the same thing of creating a mask for the light layers but instead it'll only refer to the areas that aren't shaded (basically, select the first shading layer and then invert the selection and create the mask).
After that I'll just add any extra white lights (i.e. in the eyes or more "metalic" parts) and I'm done! I also tend to use a (monochrome) noise layer over everything at 18% opacity and in "Overlay" mode.
Hope that's well explained! I've been so busy these past months that I'm no longer sure if anything I say makes sense, haha.
Also feel free to show/tag me in what you do and I'll try to check it out, though I'm not very active on here.
Trying new things
played through psychonauts recently and was inspired to draw brainless raz (I finally finished a drawing for the first time in months yippee)