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@kelsullivan
Who'd You Vote For?
Who’d You Vote For?
I’ve been sitting back this past week going down rabbit hole after rabbit hole of social comments. I have friends and acquaintances who are on both sides of many hot topics—vaccines, COVID conspiracies, BLM, cancel culture, mental health, religion, gun control, women’s reproductive rights—and often have a front-row seat to heated debates that often end up getting pretty ugly. A lot of that is…
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Policing the Rainbow
At the NYC Pride March last year, a group of activists staged an alternative to the mainstream parade: the inaugural Queer Liberation March.
In vast contrast to the NYC Pride March, this march had no underlying capitalistic current; there were no flamboyant floats decked out with giant brand logos, no police contingent, and there wasn’t a dime of corporate funding. It was formed as a movement to…
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Sand. Beige. Taupe. Biscotti. There are dozens of ways to describe this pale shade, yet major brands are still using the antiquated (and racially loaded) term “nude.”
Naming colors is a part of a copywriter’s job, and I’ve always argued that “nude” is never an appropriate term, even if that’s what the factories have called it. Nude is subjective, it means something different to everyone;…
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What's in a Name?
Is YSL the same with the Y? Is Maison Martin Margiela the same without the Martin? How does a luxury fashion house stay current and new without sacrificing their age-old legacy? ID Magazine takes a dive into the dubious issue of rebranding the luxury name:
“Unless you’ve been living under a WiFi-less rock for the past six months, you’ve probably noticed a few changes at Margiela. At creative…
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Designer Spotlight - Hardy Aimes
Taken from The British Fashion Council, and inspired by last weekend’s London Collections: Men where Hardy Aimes’ Creative Director Mehmet Ali showed the luxury brand’s A/W 2015 collection.
HARDY AMIES – Historical Brand Biography Menswear Heritage
Edwin Hardy Amies examining fashion designs for the following season: 1952
When Sir Hardy Amies launched ‘Man’, his debut menswear catwalk show 51…
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The Lackluster Golden Globes Red Carpet & What They Should Have Worn
Save for Kate Hudson in Versace and J.Lo in Zahair Murad, the ensembles parading down the Golden Globe’s red carpet tonight turned out to be one giant disappointment (Emma Stone wore a jumpsuit and Lordewore trousers…and media sources are commending them…really!?). Celebrities should look down right jaw-dropping for these kinds of high profile events, especially for the Golden Globes which is…
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Designer Spotlight - Daniela D'Amico
One of I.F.’s prime objectives is to spread the word about amazing, innovative, and creatively unique designers from around the world, and share their individual stories with the fashion community as they start to gain ground in the industry.
The designers featured by I.F. have passed a series of requirements including (but not limited to) the use of fair labor practices and a knack for unique…
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Another One Bites the Dust - Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang Sells Outs - Intellectually Fashionable
It seems another great designer has sold out to fast fashion; it has been announced that Alexander Wang will be doing a collaboration with Swedish company H&M.
Alexander Wang has become a popular face among the fashion industry elite and as such he should be using his popularity to take a stand for positivity in the fashion industry, like Diane Von Fustrenburg and Andrew Rosen. Who better than…
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Textile Traditions - The Hmong Tribe and Kantha Quilts
Textile Tradition Tuesday - The Hmong Tribe and Kantha Quilts #TextileTraditions #Fashion #Culture
Native, traditional, Eastern, or often times called, “fixed” dress, that of the indigenous peoples of East-Asian territories, may seem to be the antithesis of the current Western standard of the sartorial etiquette which relies on constant fashion change and the unwavering push for newness. However, these precious, contextually and sentimentally loaded, incredibly detailed traditional textiles…
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Everyone's a Fashion Writer
Everyone’s a Fashion Writer
Fashion and style blogs are a dime a dozen and everyone’s a critic. When “fashion writers” try to describe, contextualize, and critique collections, sometimes their sartorial lexicon falls short and clothing jargon gets, literaly, lost in translation.
Here are just a few terms whose meanings have become muddled as of late, often taking on a more macro-meaning than originally intended.
Appliqué:…
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Learning from the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire
“The Triangle Shirtwaist incident is remembered for its shocking brutality: On March 25, 1911, a ferocious fire broke out at a factory on the ninth floor of a building in New York City’s Greenwich Village. Some of the exits and stairwells had been locked to prevent workers from taking breaks or stealing, leaving many unable to get out. As a result, 146 workers, mostly young immigrant women, died…
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The Sewer and the Machine
The Sewer and the Machine
“The methodical and precise sound of a sewing machine is oddly calming.
It is one of those steps that looks as if it can be done in an auto-pilot state of mind. But it is actually a job requiring incredibly skill and a deep knowledge of the machine and its relationship to the person. In order to perfectly sew a bag, one must know the machine’s personality – its strengths, weaknesses, and quirks.
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Remembering L'Wren (for being more than Mick Jagger's GF)
L’Wren Scott, acclaimed costume designer and celebrity stylist has taken her own life, her body was found by her assistant the morning of March 17th. It has emerged that the A-list socialite was massively in debt, “Accounts for her business LS Fashion LTD show it had a deficit of $5,899,548 (4,237,164 Euros) and the designer owed creditors $7.641 million (euros 5,488,125)” (The Mirror).
The discourse surrounding L’Wren’s death has revolved around her connections with the celebrity elite (I.e. being Mick Jagger’s long-time girlfriend and being best friends with Nicole Kidman, Ellen Barkin, Daphne Guinness, and Rachel Feinstein), but Ms. Scott had many accomplishments besides being an A-list socialist.
L’Wren began her career in the fashion world as a model in the 1980s for Thierry Mugler. At a height of 6 feet 3 inches, Scott became known as the model with “The Longest Legs in Britain.”
Her modeling career was short-lived, as she moved to the business-side of the fashion industry with a knack for styling and an address book full of celebrity high society members like Madonna, Julia Roberts, and Angelina Jolie. In 2000, L’Wren was actually named the “official” stylist of the Oscars.
Expanding into costume design was the next logical step for the highly connected fashionista. Her costume design repertoire includes Ocean’s Thirteen, Eyes Wide Shut and Martin Scorsese’s documentary about The Rolling Stones. In 2006, L’Wren launched her own collection and became a favorite among the London Fashion Week scene, always showing at the end of the week in an intimate setting with a small but ultra-posh audience and the finest of catering (that always matched the collection).
It is sad to see such a talent succumb to the pressures that go along with being a high-profile fashion designer (which brings to mind the late Alexander McQueen, R.I.P.). Just goes to show that the glitz and glamour of the fashion scene is sometimes just smoke and mirrors and when the illusion dissipates, the harsh realities of maintaining a successful fashion business is sometimes too much for creative minds to cope with.
Original Post on I.F. Intellectually Fashionable
Who Wears the Pants?
In order to understand the world and the endless amount of information we take in every second, the human brain has developed the use of ‘schemata’ or categories which are used as frameworks so that information can be easily and quickly filed away to help us interact appropriately in different situations. Everyone has their own set of schemata influenced by background,…
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Throwback Thursday
Diane von Furstenberg in her warehouse, 1977. In a dress that without any changes, would work perfectly in the zeitgeist of today #classic
Missing the Target - 3 Recent Fashion Industry Fails
From a graphic design nightmare to a potential trademark lawsuit, the fashion industry has seen some major epic fails over the past couple weeks. I.F. comments on three major mishaps the fashion industry would rather we didn't talk about.
1. Target's Photoshop Mishap
At least, one would hope it was a mishap. It's painful to think that a graphic designer would blatantly remove a section of the model's crotch (perhaps in a seriously failed attempt at taking the "thigh-gap" to another level - as some people outraged in response to the image). The image went viral and Target removed it from the site, but not without a serious backlash from the internet community.
Learn to proof, Target.
2. Recipe for Disaster: Fast Fashion Meets Fast Food
Jeremy Scott, recently appointed creative director of Moschino, presented his debut collection at Milan Fashion week; "an ode to the 1980s, 1990s and American brand iconography, referencing Cheetos, Hershey’s, Froot Loops, SpongeBob SquarePants, Run-DMC and, notably, McDonald’s." The day after the show, a ten-piece capsule collection appropriately named, "Fast Fashion - Next Day After The Runway," became available for purchase in Moschino boutiques and online at moschino.com.
Seven of the ten pieces in the collection featured a heart-shaped motif that looks exactly like a pigeon-toed version of the McDonald's Golden Arches, mustard and ketchup colors and all. It has been discovered that Moschino did not approach McDonald's for permission to use the Golden Arches logo, and it is inconclusive as to whether McDonald's has grounds for legal action as the law related to trademark "dilution" is tenuous. (For a more detailed explanation of the legal side to this matter visit this great article by The Business of Fashion)
However, the most interesting discourse surrounding this issue deals with the interplay of fast fashion with fast food; "McDonald’s could argue that Moschino uses the heart-shaped motif in fashion designs to draw an unflattering comparison between fast food and fast fashion. Naming the capsule collection 'Fast Fashion — Next Day After The Runway' and retailing it on the day following the show both skewers the high street chains creating fast fashion and beats them at their own game, but at the expense of McDonald’s Golden Arches. In 2001, McDonald’s was the primary target in Eric Schlosser’s bestseller Fast Food Nation. In 2012, fast fashion came under similar scrutiny in Elizabeth L. Cline’s book Overdressed. Katha Pollitt of The Nation praised the book, saying 'Overdressed does for t-shirts and leggings what Fast Food Nation did for burgers and fries.'" (Anjli Patel of BOF)
3. More Flaws in Bangladesh Factories
It's been almost a full year since the epic Rana Plaza Factory collapse in Bangladesh, resulting in over 1,000 deaths - and it appears history is destined to repeat itself. In a recent inspection, Bangladesh factories were found to have "cracked support beams, substandard building materials and exposed electrical cables chewed by rats." The group leading the inspections is comprised of mostly European Fashion Brands who got together after the Rana Plaza tragedy shed light on the disastrous working conditions of many Bangladesh garment workers (of which there are over 4 million) who work in the factories who produce their products. It seems a bit distressing that it has taken this long to START the inspections stage... never mind the fact that there is no evidence that the inspection has any clout (a bad rating from this group does not mean other brands will not still use their services). It is yet to be explained how the group is actually helping the workers, there seems to be no suggestion that they plan to provide solutions to even simple problems they could themselves implement (like providing lunch for workers), never mind solve architectural issues.
Originally posted on I.F. Intellectually Fashionable
The Better Cotton Initiative
The Better Cotton Initiative
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) aims to make global production of cotton more sustainable not only for the environment, but for the future and for the people who produce it, from farmers to textile mills to retailers. Working with a “diverse range” of members along the entire cotton supply chain, BCI collaborates with and provides solutions for better cotton production practices, promoting…
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