currently stuck in the house

wassup i like to make stuffed animals mostly

[farm-paws]

HE’S GAY AND FRIENDLY!

From: ‘Home-made Toys’ The Australian Women’s Weekly, 1960s approx.

[eldritchalpaca]

he's gay and friendly!

(yarn info, pattern thoughts, and extra pics under the cut)

I had so much fun knitting this little guy! I didn't go into it with the intention of making a patchwork elephant but I'm really pleased with the results!

The pattern was very interesting to follow, it was generally intelligible but just not how modern knitting patterns are written. My first attempt at the body piece had to be unraveled because I missed a row and his butt got mixed up with his back leg. Otherwise, not too hard, but if anyone has specific questions about how I interpreted the pattern feel free to ask!

(or any knitting questions really. playing knitting tech support is among my favorite activities)

I decided against making the saddle partially because I ran out of yarn and was dedicated to only using this set of yarn, and partially because I'm proud of my seams at the 4-way color changes and don't want to cover them up.

The yarn is a worsted mini set from my family's yarn dying business, Shelby Strings, in the colorway Geode Cache.

I like the patchwork effect so much that I'm working on writing out an adapted pattern to give out for free at yarn shows! A lot of people like our mini sets but don't know what to do with them, and I think this little guy is a perfect use.

I'm currently working on multiple pattern versions; one that's true to the original but written for a modern audience, and one with multiple colors (along with some tweaks for a nicer time sewing it up and a knit version of the tusks).

I'll be sure to post them here when I'm done, but I couldn't resist posting my perfect baby boy the moment I finished him :)

thanks for reading my ramblings, here's some more pics for the road:

[eldritchalpaca]

AS PROMISED!

here is my gay and friendly elephant pattern document! I've included a transcription of the original pattern, a translation of the pattern into modern knitting pattern verbiage, and notes on how I made my patchwork elephant because he's just so cute and I think everyone needs one.

if you find any problems with the pattern or have any questions, my ask box is open! and feel free to tag me in your elephantine creations! i want to see the world full of friendly gay elephants :)

(also, patches says hi)

[purplepygmyhippos]

Side one of mine is done! Now on to the rest 🐘

[snakepyre]

TABLET WEAVING INTRODUCTION

When i started i was going off of diagrams from old websites, and struggled a good bit. I hope this post will help you get started! Feel free to ask questions!

This video shows the very basics (not in english, but quite clear). This video explains how to read patterns before you start doing it backwards, mirrored and upside down (which is what i did!).

Basic tools; the beauty of tablet weaving is that you need minimal supplies to get started.

Cotton yarn (I use 8/4)

Cards (thin cardboard and a hole punch will do)

A chair or door handle, to tie the threads to

A belt, to tie the threads to yourself

A shuttle (you can start with a pencil, old credit card, ruler, your fingers,... i use a bone folder)

Variables to understand before trying to use a pattern

S/Z card slant or threading

The direction the cards face

Forward or backward turns

ABCD or DCBA

This video (mentioned above as well) explains these variables and how to read different patterns you will find. There is no universal way to write a tablet weaving pattern, resulting in different patterns directly opposing one another (& lots of frustration on my end </3).

General tips from me, a novice

Start with a thin band

Start with a simple pattern, where the cards all turn forward for the whole band, like this one

Then move to a pattern that alternates forward and backward turns, this one is simple but very pretty

After that, try a pattern that has you divide the cards into groups, like a ramshorn or dublin dragons

Be sure to use contrasting colours (in hue and/or tone). A black and white filter can help you here

Get some bag clips to prevent tangles (ikea!)

Always turn the edge cards in the same direction. This gives a neater end result. The edges can be the outer two cards, or a group that forms a decorative trim

Personally, i like looping the thread around a door handle instead of tying it, which makes untwisting threads very easy

You can eventually omit the written ABCD on the cards, but it is a good crutch to lean on when learning

I use some scrap wood with bolts that i tie to my belt, making it a little easier to manage tension and move the woven band along as i go

Finding patterns

I use pinterest for the most part. Twisted threads has many patterns, with a built-in program, but the search function is not great.

I made you four pinterest boards; for the sake of simplicity, the patterns are all GTT which means tablets face RIGHT, S/Z refers to the THREADING direction, use ABCD, forward turns the tablets AWAY from yourself (forwards = D over A)

Level one: all forward turns

Level two: alternating forward and backward

Level three: groups of tablets that turn differently

Level four: a fuckton of tablets with complex patterns

This video made me understand double-face weaving, this one is shorter and easier to follow. Double-face is a fun technique but i would reccommend getting good at following a regular pattern first.

My main mistake when i was starting out:

Whether the slant is S or Z, the cards should all face the same way. For some reason, I made the S-cards all face right and the Z-cards left. Simple, repetitive patterns will turn out fine but anything slightly more complex will be distorted, and you will be frustrated:

Your first few projects will likely be messy! Don't be too discouraged. Here's a couple of my firsts:

[jamsay]

I had an urge to knit a pair of knee high wool socks. The first sock was done in under a week (which is fast for me). The second sock took a little longer. Another friend of mine agreed to model them for me.

[fuckyeahviralpics]

It’s never too late to learn the right way to do things: button sewing technique via imgur → more…

[togglepop]

WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE

[ccbytheseashore]

I feel like I just reblog this every time it is on my dash, with hope that one day I will stop being such a goof about sewing buttons.

[ilwinsgarden]

You mean someone don’t do it like this?

[actuallyclintbarton]

Yeah I was taught to just sew them flush against the fabric. It didn’t work as well as I thought it should…

[deadcatwithaflamethrower]

Yeah, I’m so downloading a copy of this post because buttons and I do not like each other.

[paininthejas]

I worked as a costume designer and assistant in a costume shop for 2 years and honest 2 god this will save your life.

[lark-in-ink]

I am a professional tailor and I approve this message.

[icantbearsedtothinkofone]

I was taught to put a matchstick between the button and fabric as you’re sewing it then remove it and do the wrapping.

[systlin]

So my sister wants to start sewing more, because

a. She’s 5′ 11″ and can never find pants long enough for her legs or shirts long enough for her arms.

b. She hates synthetic fibers as much as I do and it’s difficult to find natural fiber clothes that aren’t made of cotton

c. She’s a biologist and would physically fistfight microplastics if given half a chance

So her gift from mom and dad for her birthday was a sewing machine. Not a super expensive one but a good solid serviceable one.

And recently she asked “So where do I GET wool or linen and thread that isn’t polyester” and mom was like ‘go ask your sister’

And I, of course, crashed into the group text like “GET A PEN I HAVE WEBSITES FOR U” and honestly I’m thrilled about this

[systlin]

“Where did u get all this”

“Bets, u know I’m a 15th degree blackbelt of buying shit on the internet”

“oh yeah tru”

[hermesmuse]

Op can may we inquire about the website list

[systlin]

Linen; https://www.graylinelinen.com/

cotton and Silk thread; https://redrockthreads.com/

Linen thread and wool fabric; https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com/ (they’ve got wool stuffs and worsted wool fabric for $15 a yard! I just got three yards of navy worsted wool I’m making a constellation winter skirt from)

More linen thread and wool; https://wmboothdraper.com/ (just ordered wool broadcloth to make a coat)

Silk fabric (THE best place to get silk lining fabrics and raw silk fabric):https://www.dharmatrading.com/

A varying assortment of wool and silk and cotton and even some leather, use coupon code  spring2020 for 50% off your full order, worked yesterday when I bought some stuff there; https://metrotextilesnyc.com/

Wool. You want wool coating for under $20 a yard? Sure you do. It’s here. Not a huge variety of colors, most are black or brown, but hey https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/Catalog?refinementIds=4096748&Keyword=wool&pageSize=16

[wingedtyger]

I don’t know a lot about sewing, but I want to make or have my mom make some linen pants & shirts for when I’m watering, because it gets to 105 here and we have mosquitos so I need to be covered. What type of linen do I buy? Also, linen pajama shorts, yes/no?

(I’ve been wearing my renfaire pants which are a linen mix, I think. But the frikking mosquitos that hide in the tomatoes get my arms)

[systlin]

Medium weight is what I’d go with.

And linen pajama shorts is a HARD yes.

[beggars-opera]

Renaissance Fabrics is good for all sorts of things

Mood doesn’t specialize in natural fabrics but they do have basically every fabric ever made so

[the-merry-otter]

For wools, I cannot recommend Woolsome enough! They’re a bit more expensive then the above links, but they have a spectacular range of colours and weights, as well as diamond pattern and herringbone weaves. They also have a range of linens, though not as extensive.

Woolsome

Historical fabrics for re-enactors

[justgarb]

Tiedtohistory.com has sheer voile linen

The Linen Lab has a variety of weaves, weights, and colors available

Period Fabric has a variety of wools, but switch to the full website if you’re on mobile

[vvamolian]

Glass spider web dress 🕷️ 🕸️

Made by @themoonsalibicollection

[angstandhappiness]

Pretty, like dewdrops on spiderwebs

[officialbabayaga]

i just invented a cathedral rose window granny square pattern and i feel insane now

[officialbabayaga]

Not me writing up an entire granny square pattern instead of studying :)

I hope it makes sense, and other people enjoy!

People who requested the pattern tagged under the cut:

@plumberrypudding @g-ri @boyslit @squisnaynay @pyxxie-nyxxie @kiieyla @clairvoylance @hpysprkl-regurgitates @cloudyhall @hobbittastic

[covidsafecosplay]

Do you need affordable sewing supplies? Do you want to help cut down on waste and fast fashion?

Do yourself a favor and check out Swanson's Fabrics! The physical location is in Turners Falls, Massachusetts, USA, but the online shop will ship to you!

I can't remember who first told me about Swanson's, but they're a textile thrift shop that collects and repurposes donations of unused sewing supplies. Their physical location, The Stash House, offers community sewing resources and a studio. For non-locals (such as myself), their online shop offers fabrics, patterns, and notions. The shop restocks on Thursdays, and they have a constantly-rotating collection of items. If you like thrifting secondhand craft materials, Swanson's is for you!

Via their official "about" page:

Swanson’s Fabrics and notions are gifts from retired sewing stashes. They are the fabrics and supplies that sewers and fiber-artists naturally accumulate. I had a suspicion that the reason we all collect so much is that we didn’t have a place “good enough” to take it. So I made the place. Turns out I was right, and thanks to my community (and yours) of makers and crafters, I can resell these fine materials at a low, approachable cost. ALL FABRICS ARE $5.00/yd, NO MATTER WHAT THEY ARE MADE OF. REALLY. I MEAN IT. I KNOW. UNBELIEVABLE BUT TRUE! As we come to grips with the climate crisis, interrupted supply lines, and our dependency on slave-labor in far away countries to produce our cotton and fiber goods, we need another way to approach the fabrics in our lives. We have a massive resource of textile goods in our country and it is time to tap into it. Our attics, basements, thrift-store donation bins, and dumpsters are brimming with discarded fabrics. It is time to start making and trading for the things we need, and stop buying so much new stuff we don’t. We need to see ourselves as trash-rich. Customers at Swanson’s can pay for goods and services with goods and services. I accept trade of sewing and fiber supplies/materials, and trade for help in the shop. I hope to inspire you to make your own clothes, to mend the ones you have, to shop second-hand and alter things to your taste. There is a lot of power in dressing yourself. Custom is king, and you can’t have a revolution in your master’s clothes…. ❤️💪🏻 -Kathryn

The CovidSafeCosplay blog and its admin are unaffiliated with Swanson's Fabrics, and are simply sharing the resource.

Do you have a favorite place to get your crafting supplies? Share in the comments or via a reblog! Bonus points for those that prioritize sustainability, accessibility, community, and trade.

[tamaraniac]

Lots of cities / areas have stores who also sell repurposed or donated fabrics! Here’s one directory of creative reuse stores. (Though ‘creative reuse’ is usually the key search term)

I get most of mine at Scrap in Ann Arbor (they also sell some items online) and New City Sewing Center in St. Louis.

[batbetbitbotbut]

Low space & low budget weaving

Want to weave but don't have space for a loom? Have a few sticks and yarns but no DIY skills? Come, be tempted anyway. Weaving is a whole family of crafts, some of which don't require a loom at all.

Small-ish looms like box looms (as basic as yarn wrapped around a cardboard grocery tray), inkle looms, and rigid heddle looms exist, but I'm assuming every possible space for a box in your life is already filled. In this post we're going even smaller and cheaper. As far as possible, everything either is flat enough to stow behind/under furniture or rolls up safely into a bundle of just sticks and yarn.

Many of these crafts have some crossover - the same setup can be used for multiple styles of weaving. Most of them can be improvised at home depending on what you have on hand, or if you need to buy something there is not a huge gulf between homemade vs professional equipment. Alas I am not skilled in any of these and my descriptions will not be wholly accurate; corrections and additions welcome! If you need help, I'd only be able to tell you to seek out books and tutorials yourself, ask other weavers, and just try stuff out.

All photos included with permission. My thanks to the people allowing me to use their projects! I saw so many gorgeous and skillful projects when assembling this and I wish I could have included them all.

Fingerweaving

Projects by @kitteniestkitten (here) and @wefty-weaver (here)

Culture - I am aware of this as a Native American technique, I don't know its history with any more specific tribe.

Fabric - "Warp faced" cloth of any width, insofar as warp and weft have meaning for this craft as the weaving is on a diagonal. Often used for sashes or blankets.

Method - There is no loom! A couple sticks hold the yarns to begin with, but then it is all freehand. Starting at one corner, you use your fingers to weave a strand through the other strands, and... that's it. Very simple beginnings work up to very complex patterns that no loom is capable of. The whole project can be rolled up when not active.

Backstrap loom

Projects by @calendae-creations (here) and @weavingforlooms (here)

Culture - I am most aware of this from the Andes but I think it is much more widespread than that.

Fabric - Warp faced or balanced fabric of any width up to your own reach, suitable for blankets and clothes and many other things.

Method - You are the loom! Several horizontal rods hold and manipulate the warp threads but your body provides the tension, with the other end hooked to some furniture or around your own feet. When not in use, you can roll up all the equipment into a small bundle of yarn and rods. You can also use a backstrap loom setup for other methods like tablet weaving.

Warp weighted loom

Projects by @shadowcreepling (here) and @doctormead (here)

Culture - used by ancient Greeks among many many others.

Fabric - any kind of fabric at any size. Shadowcreepling is using a warp weighted loom for a tablet-woven band, Doctormead is probably using heddle rods to make a wider piece of cloth.

Method - the warp threads are held by a bar at the top and tensioned with weights on one end that hang down towards the floor, then the weft is woven into them with any method such as tablets, heddle rods, or by hand (if you have a lot of patience) and beaten into firm fabric at the top or bottom of the loom. Warp weighted looms can be very big, but they are simple and can also be very small and taken apart when not actively weaving.

Tablet weaving / card weaving

Projects by @damage-ko (here) and @foxease (here, hardware from CellesKit on Etsy)

Culture - found as far apart as textiles (geographically and temporally) from Byzantine Egypt and the Vikings

Fabric - a warp faced fabric with patterns made by twining warp threads around each other, usually used for strong narrow bands like collars, belts, and shoelaces.

Method - the cards hold open the shed so you can pass the weft through, then rotate the cards to advance the pattern. Many people make their own with cardboard or playing cards, or you can buy some. The rest of the weaving setup can be improvised with a backstrap (or just a shower curtain hook clipped to your trousers), a cardboard box loom, or warp weights.

Rigid heddle band weaving

Projects by @pisaracraft (here) and @crookedtines (here)

Culture - small rigid heddles like the first project have been found in Roman archaeological sites across Europe. The larger rigid heddle in the second project is being used for "baltic pickup" style designs on the band.

Fabric - can be warp faced or a balanced weave, size limited by the size of your heddle.

Method - you provide tension with any setup you please such as an inkle loom, backstrap, or warp weights. The heddle creates sheds so that you can pass weft yarn through the warp easily. Infinitely many "pick-up patterns" let you weave patterns and even words into the cloth.

Pin loom / potholder loom

Projects by @pardalote (here) and @weavingmyheartout (here)

Fabric - a small square (or rectangle or triangle) of balanced weaving, which can be used alone or patched together into larger fabrics. Pin looms are finer and suitable for many knitting/crochet yarns, potholer looms are chunkier and designed for big elastics, but the method is similar.

Method - wind yarn lengthways around one set of pins and then pull yarn widthways through these strands with a hook. Or, work at 45 degrees in continuous strand weaving! Lots of room to experiment with colour and texture. You can improvise a pin loom by cutting notches in a square of sturdy cardboard.

Needle weaving / stick weaving / peg loom

Projects by @thaylepo (here) and @pastelispunx (here)

Fabric - weft-faced fabric and rugs of any size.

Method - thread long thin warp threads through the pegs, then wind a thick weft (eg heavier yarn, sheep fleece, or long scraps of fabric) around the pegs. Push the weft down along the pegs as they fill up, so that it slides off onto the warp. The pegs can be secured in a base to make a peg loom for large projects, or just handled freely. I believe these evolved as separate crafts and the nuances are different, but the overall method is similar.

Frame loom / tapestry loom

Projects by @squeakygeeky (here) and @battlestar-gasmacktica (here)

Fabric - weft-faced or balanced fabric ideal for wall hangings and upholstery, size limited to the frame being used.

Method - (usually) thinner warp threads are wound round a frame, such as heavy cardboard with notches cut in the end, a picture frame, or a small and flat purpose-made loom. Thicker weft threads are woven in by hand using needles or just small lengths of yarn. Some people make lifelike images, others make more ordinary fabrics or geometric patterns.

Bobbin lace

Projects by @crochetpiece (here) and @noxx-notions (here)

Culture - began in renaissance Italy and spread throughout Europe, often as a cottage industry.

Fabric - balanced fabric usually made of very thin threads in freeform shapes. It's not usually considered "weaving" but the basic cloth stitch is definitely a woven fabric!

Method - each thread is wound onto a bobbin (e.g. a clothespeg) and then bobbins are crossed over each other to weave threads together. The lace is pinned to a cushion to hold everything in place while the design grows.

[yanderepuck]

So with Joann going under and as a Fashion/Costume Designer and a cosplayer I need a place to get fabric and notions, and I know many others feel lost as well

So I made a short simple list of online fabric stores as well as notions .

Please share with anyone you would like. If you have recommendations of things to add please let me know.

Fabric sources

There's only a few right now of ones I know and have used

I may add a few niche ones like Silk Baron but I am mainly adding ones with many options and maybe add a niche section later

More places with trims would be nice, or even patterns, historical, cosplay, or everyday.

[bomberqueen17]

How To Shop For Fabric Online

RIP Joann's. Now many places in the US no longer have a local fabric store, such as it even was toward the end.

There are some good posts going around about where to shop for fabric and craft supplies online, like this one for example. But if you're a beginner-to-intermediate sewist, and the way you've always shopped for fabric is by going to the store and touching it, it can be a hard, even cruel adjustment to suddenly be looking at a photo online and trying to piece together from the inconsistent descriptions what you're actually looking at.

So I'm going to just try to bang together a little primer on What Things Are Called, and how to educate yourself, so that you don't have to do what I did and just buy a ton of inappropriate stuff you wound up not being able to use for what you'd thought. And I will link to some resources that will help with this. This will be garment-sewing-centric but will, I think, be fairly broadly applicable.

The first thing is to look carefully at your desired project. If it is a commercial pattern, it will usually tell you what kind of fabric you need, but it will describe it in not the same words it's often sold under. If it is NOT a commercial pattern and you're kind of winging it, it's even harder. So here is how to start figuring out what you need.

Number one: Knit or Woven?

Quilting fabric is woven. If you are making a quilt, you want a woven. Most craft projects are made with woven fabric-- tote bags, upholstery, you name it.

Many garments are knits. T-shirts, yoga pants, cardigans. It is easy to know, because knits stretch. They can either stretch both ways (along the length and along the width) or just one way (usually along the width); this is confusingly either called 2-way stretch or 4-way stretch. Yes, stores are inconsistent. Look carefully at the description, and they will usually specify-- "along the grain" or "in all directions". Some garments require stretch only around the body-- maxi skirts, knit dresses etc-- while some absolutely need stretch both ways, like bathing suits.

No, you absolutely cannot clone your favorite knit t-shirt in quilting cotton. It will not fit. Most knit garments have "negative ease", meaning they are smaller than your body and stretch to fit. All woven garments have "positive ease", meaning they are larger than your body, unless very firm shaping undergarments are used.

SMALL EXCEPTION: There exist "stretch wovens", which are woven fabrics made with elastic fibers. These will be labeled as such. They are actually harder to sew with than regular wovens because they almost never have their stretch percentage labeled; they are NOT suitable for knit patterns. Avoid them, until you are more advanced and know how to accomodate them, is my advice!

Number two: WEIGHT.

How heavy is the fabric? How thick? How thin? This is measured in two main ways-- ounces per yard (denim is often 8oz, 10 oz, 12 oz) or grams per square meter. But many fabric retailers do not tell you a weight, they use words like "bottomweight" or "dress-weight", and you have to learn to figure out what they mean by that.

My lifehack for learning these has been go to go to ready-to-wear clothing retailers and see if they give the weights of the fabric their garments are made from. (Yes, I learned how to shop for clothes online instead of in-store years ago, because I am fat; some of us have had to do this a long time.)

If you are making a pair of trousers, you need heavier fabric than if you are making a blouse. Do not buy a floaty translucent chiffon to make your work trousers, it will not work no matter how cute the color is. Learn how the different weights of fabric are described, and you will improve your odds of finding what you need.

Number three: DRAPE.

Is it stiff? Is it fluid? Is it soft? is it firm? There are a lot of very artsy words used for this, and you may find yourself puzzling over things with a fluid hand, or a dry, crisp hand, or "a lot of drape", or maybe the listing doesn't describe it at all. This segues neatly into another technical thing, which is the WEAVE of the fabric. There is a dizzying array of words that tell you what kind of fabric it is-- twill, tabby, challis, chiffon, crepe, organza, georgette. And these will give you insight into the drape, and thus into the texture/usability of this fabric, and how suitable it may or may not be for your project.

I know it's a lot to think about but I am now going to give you resources for where to see all this stuff.

Number one is Mood Fabrics, which I can't believe hasn't been in any of the posts I've seen so far. They are a huge store in NYC's Fashion District and yes you can go there, but when I went there it overwhelmed me so much I left empty-handed. But what they have is AN INCREDIBLE WEBSITE. They have everything on there, and what's most important for you, their listings are INCREDIBLY consistent. They have VIDEOS of many of the fabrics, where a sales associate will hold it, wave it, stretch it, and tell you verbally what it is and what it's for, in about thirty seconds. HUNDREDS of these videos.

Whether you want to buy from them or not, go to Mood Fabrics, click around, find their listings, and read them. They will tell you fabric content, weight (usually gsm), often weave, they have little graphics that show you if it's for pants, dresses, shirts. And they have those videos. Look at the listings, watch the videos, and you will leave knowing a lot more about how to look at an online listing of fabric and know what you're getting.

Another really excellent website for this is Stonemountain & Daughter. I've actually not bought anything from them yet (they came highly recommended, but they're not cheap), but their online listings are, again, very thorough and very detailed. They always have a picture of the fabric with a fold in it held in place by a pin, which does more to help you understand the weight and drape of a fabric than any other static image ever could-- that visual, combined with how informative the listings are, has helped me learn to estimate fabric weights on other sites very effectively.

And here is a page that's ostensibly about how to wash silk, but I found it so useful because it gives such a clear image of what each weave/type of silk fabric looks and drapes like. I've never bought anything from these guys either, but this is a good resource.

Learn a little bit about fabric so you know what you're looking for, and you can begin to replace some of that "i just have to go and feel it in person" problem. There will still be trial and error, but you'll have a better starting place at least.

[olderthannetfic]

After scrolling through a bajillion pages of the current fad for greige 10 mohairs held together plain sweaters, I have finally found a designer worth buying patterns from! If only they had this scale pattern on a sweater!

[robotogato]

Ok. This is pretty neat. Makes me wish I knew how to knit.

[olderthannetfic]

Tragically, all the good tentacles are crocheted, not knit.

[olderthannetfic]

BTW, if anyone knows other Ravelry designers who give off similar vibes to Lavish Craft, I want their names! Or just your favorite designers in general as long as they aren’t PetiteKnit.

I’ve seen a lot of designs that are incidentally named after things from fantasy books, but the actual look of the piece wouldn’t tell you what it’s inspired by. I’m more interested in designers doing dragon scale designs or at least sweaters I can picture on a hobbit.

Fabel Knitwear has some pretty stuff, but I hear her gauge is weird af and her patterns are confusing. I have the Montmartre but haven’t made a serious attempt at it yet, so we’ll see what I think. I’m not finding the instructions bad, but I agree with all the nitpickers that her own knitting is that trendy airy bullshit where the needles are 5 sizes too big and you’re making up for it with hairy yarns. My sense is that she’s one of those designers whose shots of herself in samples are by far the best thing about the designs.

I’ve spotted a couple of things I want from Skeindeer Knits. Lots of classic looks there that I can’t easily get from a store.

[dreamerinsilico]

Norah Gaughan‘s more whimsical designs, like this one and this one, might be up your alley.  (She has a lot of really basic stuff too, including at least a couple in the vein of the trend you mentioned, but she’s also a bloody wizard with cables and other interesting design elements.)

[olderthannetfic]

Oh man! I had not realized those were by the same person! I’ve run across both separate times and found them intriguing.

[loracarol]

You may like Dragon Lore? Or any of Alexandra Davidoff’s other dragon projects?

Her other knits are a range of “normal” to “fantasy-esque”, but I think they’re neat. :)

Heavener Scarf

Azul

[olderthannetfic]

Niiiice

[sparklecryptid]

Some of Nim Teasdale’s designs give off similar vibes!

She also has a lot of lacework in some of her shawl designs but all are very pretty.

I’ve made her Goldleaf and Corozona patterns and I’ve found them easy to follow.

[morwentrouble]

May I introduce you to my knitting crush Tania Richter?

Her designs aren’t things a fantasy character would wear, necessarily, but *I* sure want to wear them as a lover of fantasy. (I haven’t sprung for any yet so I can’t speak to the pattern drafting functionality, but she seems to be popular which is a good sign.)

[olderthannetfic]

Ooh, I don’t think I’ve seen these yet.

I’m very excited about the recs you’re all giving me, especially the ones I’ve never seen.

[storiesintheashes]

When searching on ravelry, you can put a minus before a search term like so: -mohair. This will remove any patterns that identify as using mohair. This might make avoiding those kinds of patterns easier.

Here are some cool fantasy-ish pieces I’ve seen:

Olivia’s Cape by Amy Gunderson

The Seer by Ninja Chickens

Silversmith Hoodie by Meiju K-P

Dragon Scale Mitts by Colette Smith

Sekiryu Kimono Sweater by Tania Richter

Long Cardigan by Little Bunnyxx 

Firebird by Inna M (a colorwork chart)

Tahesha the dragon (ess) by Ina Wendrock (cable chart)

[olderthannetfic]

Interesting. I didn’t realize Ravelry search respected - notation like that.

Ooh, I’ve spotted Olivia’s Cape before, and I do indeed love it. Nice list here!

[kenta-rin]

do you like lace? Because I just discovered Sharon Winsauer

Imperial Dance of the Dragon & Phoenix

Running Free

The Zodiac

[epersonae]

@emi–rose

[the-fibre-stuff]

If you look at the search filters when you use the check boxes for the advanced search, you can see not just the notation, but what terms it uses as the tags.

[zattemptspatterns]

If y'all want vintage public domain knit patterns (usually from yarn companies), you can find it on Project Gutenberg.

[dearbisexual]

going to start researching sheep breeds that are like endangered or need conservation and then seek out their wool to use, preferably buying directly from the herders, so i can support them

[dearbisexual]

i found a farm that has Navajo-Churro sheep and sells their wool as roving and yarn directly to the public, along with several other uncommon breeds :) website here

[dearbisexual]

holy shit theres a lot of small farms out there with heritage breed sheep n other animals selling their fiber!!

[dearbisexual]

re: your tags, totally fine to reblog!! there's a whole database of farms im looking at now on the Livestock Conservancy website!! here's the link, all you have to do is select "yarn" or "fiber" from this drop down menu

and it'll give you contact info and websites to A BUNCH of small farms selling their heritage breed fiber directly!! you can also look up by animal breed if you want a specific kind of fiber like, say Navajo-Churro

it's AWESOME!! many of these farms seem to be certified by the Conservancy and the Conservancy itself seems to be like a good nonprofit

[emi--rose]

I highly recommend the Shave Em To Save Em thing from the livestock conservancy!!

[null-oh]

[thewaytheywore-deactivated20250]

[chez-pezeater]

Some help please

I took this picture back in 2017. I had permission from the woman who owns the shawl and unfortunately when I asked for a pattern she said it was a gift. I have searched FOR YEARS for this pattern. It’s not your typical granny square or willow granny square. And I have no experience with making items without a pattern of some sort. If anyone knows who made this or what the pattern is I would greatly appreciate the help. Please and thank you!

[entrophiceffects]

Chain 6. Slip stitch ring closed.

Chain up 4 (one for a single, 3 for a chain jump). *single into the ring, chain 3*. repeat till 8 chain jumps. ss into top of first chain.

3 single crochet into every chain jump. ss into first single to close.

Chain 1 (replace single), *chain 3, single back into the space you started (cluster support) into middle of the 3 singles, chain 3 (jump chain), single into the next center of the 3 singles. Repeat till end. ss shut.

First scallop/cluster row: You most likely need to slip stitch over to the start of a support and then you'll need to do three chains (or a single and a chain, you do you) to represent the first double crochet. You're going to be making a Cluster of 5 doubles into the cluster supports. You're then putting an anchor of a single crochet into the middle of the jump chain. repeat till end. Slip stitch shut in top of first double. 8 clusters total.

Another prep row: Repeating cluster supports and jump chains - cluster supports go into the top of clusters and there's a jump chain anchored beside the anchor from the previous row. So: work a single just behind the slip stitch you made, which will be beside the last anchor stitch. Chain 3. Single into the center of the cluster. Chain 3. Single into the same spot (cluster support). Chain 3. Single just to the left of the anchor stitch on the previous row. Repeat supports and jump chains till end of row. Slip stitch shut.

Cluster 7 row. This time you're doing two anchors with a chain 3 between them: Slip stitch into the chain 3 space. Chain 1 (first single). *7 double crochet into the chain support. Single crochet into chain 3 space. Chain 3. Single crochet into next chain 3 space.* repeat till end. You'll end with a chain three and slip stitch into the first single.

This row is prep to start squaring the circle. You're going to have to do something slightly tricky to start this row. Slip stitch backwards into the previous chain 3 space. *You're going to work a V stitch (double crochet, chain one, double crochet into same space) into this space and then work forward again. Chain 3. Single into center of cluster. Chain 3. V stitch into previous row chain 3 space. Single into center of cluster. Chain 3. Single into same place as last single. (Cluster support). Chain 3.* Repeat till end. (So to be clear, 4 cluster supports with each side having two sets of v stitches separated by an anchor in the top of the not corner clusters.) Slip stitch closed into top of first double crochet.

Single crochet. Chain 3. Single into next chain space. Chain 3. Single into next chain space. Chain 3. Single into middle of V stitch. Chain 3. Single into next chain stitch. 9 doubles into cluster support (corner). Repeat single into each chain space and center of V's with three chains between each till next corner. Repeat till you're back at start. Remember, no chains between corner cluster and the singles next to the corner.Pay attention that you don't just jump past where you should end the row by slip stitching into the first single. It's very easy to find yourself half a row further down doing more chain 3's and singles.

Almost done. Slip stitch into the middle of the chain 3 space. Single crochet. Chain 3, Single into next chain 3 space (x3) Chain 3. We're about to work the corner. Single crochet into the second double of the cluster. Chain 3. Double crochet into center stitch of cluster. Chain 2. Double crochet into same space. Chain 3 and single crochet into the next to last double. Chain three and single into every chain 3 space till next corner. Repeat till end. Ss shut into first single.

Final round! The easy row! Three doubles into every space on the sides.3 doubles, chain 2, 3 doubles into the corners. Slip stitch shut. And we're DONE.