Lint Roller? I Barely Know Her
Kiana Khansmith
blake kathryn
Sade Olutola
dirt enthusiast
todays bird
No title available
@theartofmadeline
oozey mess
"I'm Dorothy Gale from Kansas"
DEAR READER
Peter Solarz
cherry valley forever
tannertan36
h
shark vs the universe
NASA
YOU ARE THE REASON
titsay
styofa doing anything
seen from France
seen from Türkiye
seen from Australia
seen from Ireland
seen from Cape Verde
seen from Malaysia
seen from Luxembourg
seen from Malaysia
seen from United States
seen from Denmark
seen from Malaysia
seen from United States
seen from Netherlands
seen from Finland
seen from Australia
seen from Malaysia
seen from Malaysia
seen from Malaysia
seen from United States
seen from Georgia
@rosaleendhu
I am reasonably sure that this author mixed up their words when they put "a chord ready to snap," but I have just barely enough music knowledge to find the concept fascinating.
Like, how would you snap a whole chord? What would it sound like? Could you do it on purpose or would it be an instrument malfunctioning? Could you snap a chord on an instrument that doesn't even have strings?
I THINK THAT IF YOU PUT A CERTAIN HASH TAG THEN THE HEART IS AUTOMATICALLY THAT FLAG. IM GOING TO USE THE LESBIAN FLAG AS A TEST RUN SO PLEASE ANSWER THE POLL HONESTLY.
IF THE ANSWER IS NO, TYPE WHAT FLAG YOU GOT INTO THE COMMENTS
DID YOU GET THE LESBIAN FLAG?
yes
no
just got a red heart
PLEASE PLEASE REBLOG THIS SO MORE PEOPLE CAN TEST MY THEORY🙏
i miss vhs tapes and cds i miss feeding my computers and tvs yummy treats. now theyre eating nothing. theyre being born without mouths
idk if this is an usamerican thing or not but it always blows my mind as a small european country resident that yall have many names and types of apples???? what do you mean its not just red yellow or green??? why is it so complicated??? who is granny smith????
'whats your favorite apple' 'red' 'no i mean like what type' '??????' actual conversatiom i've had with a mutual from usa
THIRTY TWO??????
Listen that doesn’t even account for all the weird shit local farmers are getting up to.
May I present the best apple:
the world is so big and beautiful
If a fantasy world has an ancient tree of wisdom, that means it must also have young trees that are dumb as shit. Just giving terrible advice like, "the evil wizard is kinda hot"'
@evilwizard
STOP SENDING ME THIS
I feel like a lot of people engaging in torture are not treating their victims as if they could have blood borne pathogens 🤔
Is what my wife said apropo of nothing as we were silently drifting off to sleep
Uh oh
Is what she said when I immediately reached for my phone and opened Tumblr instead of responding
@everything-you-feel-is-real I know by tumblr tradition that I'm to say "impossible, my posts never blow up like that," or "please don't do this to me."
But I feel in my bones that you are right. If this is to be my wife's moment of glory, I am willing to suffer notification overload, that the world may know she is funny. #MyFunnyWife
it turns out i really enjoy making educational posts about the comics making process and ways of thinking. here's another one featuring characters from my graphic novel in a very anachronistic art museum.
Flat Drafting a Medieval-style 4-panel Kirtle
This is not a pattern. This is a guide by somebody terrified of patterning and for people who might also be afraid of patterning. The purpose of this document is to walk you through the process of patterning a “bodice block” for a 4-panel kirtle as painlessly as possible. Hopefully, by the end of this document, you will have a better understanding of how to translate 3-dimensional, irregular shapes to paper and then fabric.
I always go through the full process of drafting a pattern at a smaller scale on paper to make sure my numbers look right. I find this to be best practice, familiarizing myself with the resulting shape, including the process of marking lines and curves before moving to the more intimidating fabric.
You will need a length of string, a tape measure, a straight ruler, paper, and pens/pencils/markers.
Additional notes before drafting:
You may be interested in taking the horizontal and the vertical measurements at the same time. Be my guest. I’m not your mom.
Baseline Measurements
Tie a string around the smallest part of your waist. This MIGHT NOT BE your natural waist. If it does not match your natural waist, please note the distance between this “waist” and your natural waist for gore placement.
This gives a consistent vertical point from which to take all other measurements.
For me, this point sits immediately at the base of my rib cage.
Measure from the back side of your neck to your waist (Neck)
You are marking the highest point you want your kirtle to sit. I usually measure this using the back of the neck of a crewneck shirt.
Measure from your waist to your underbust (ub)
Your underbust is the most important part of this pattern if you’re making a supportive or low-cut bodice.
What is your underbust? Where the underwire of a bra would sit, or the base of the pectoral muscles.
Measure from your waist to the fullest part of your bust (fb)
For many bodies, the fullest part of your bust is in line with your nipples. This is not true for all bodies.
Mark a neckline above the full bust equal to the distance between the underbust and full bust. (fb-ub = neckline)
Why do we make this measurement? Assuming perfectly spherical breasts, the measurement of the underbust to the full bust should equal the distance from the full bust to the top of the bust. This generally ensures a safe, low neckline without risk of indecent exposure for first drafts. I frequently raise my neckline about an inch from this point, because I don’t like sunburn on my chest. I know a spherical breast is absurd, but it is useful for a first draft.
Extend all lines horizontally across the pattern, as seen below. Ensure that you have a vertical line running through all of these horizontal lines at the approximate center.
More Measurements
Measure horizontally at your “waist” string.
Remember, this might not be your natural waist!
Divide this measurement by 4, and center the divided measurement on the vertical line of your draft on the waist line. For example, for a waist measurement of 36”, each of the 4 panels will get 9 inches across the waist line, or 4.5” inches on either side of the vertical line.
Why divide these measurements by 4? The resulting pattern will be 4 panels, with a seam down the center back, center front, left side, and right side.
Measure the fullest part of your bust
Remember to keep the tape measure parallel to the floor. You may need help taking this measurement accurately.
Divide this measurement by 4, and center the divided measurement on the vertical line in your draft on the fb line.
Repeat this step with the underbust line.
Draw a gently curving line between the bust and waist measurements
Continue with a soft curve inward above the bust line
Measure from the “point” or hinge of your shoulder along the shoulder to where you would like the neckline to sit. For me, this measurement is the shoulder , and the measurement is usually 3-4 inches. I like reducing sun exposure and recommend this if you are planning to wear this garment outdoors..
Measure from the waist to the underside of the arm and transfer this to the paper. This is the bottom of the armhole or armscye (a)
Measure around the arm where it meets the shoulder. This is called your armscye. Divide this measurement in half (b).
Using a flexible ruler, tape measure, or French curve, use this measure to create the armscye. If not using a French curve, be sure to bulge the armscye out a little more towards the bottom than the shoulder. The upper “tip” of the armscye should approximately line up right inside the width of the full bust.
At the top of the armscye, mark the shoulder at a slight upward angle. I unfortunately do not yet have a strong system for getting this right on the first try. It takes some guess work, and I recommend leaving some extra paper or cloth here for later adjustments.
The best practice is measuring from the point you would like your shoulder to end in the neck of your garment horizontally to the center of your chest/neck. It may take some Ruler Jenga to accomplish this. Adjust the angle of your shoulder line so it ends with the distance between the inner point and an imaginary vertical line extending up from the full bust measurement. This will equal the distance between the inner point of your shoulder and the center of your chest/neck.
This is, unfortunately, one of the points that will take the most trial and error. You will eventually develop “an eye” for the angles. It will take time, but it won’t be nearly as painful as it sounds right now, I promise.
Draw a smooth line from the new shoulder seam to the point where the curved top of the bust line meets the horizontal “neckline”
Measure from your waistline down to the widest part of your hips. This may be your butt. Mark this line on your pattern (again, this should be BELOW your waistline). This is labeled h.
Measure the widest point of your hips (or butt), divide this by 4 for h.
Don’t hold the tape measure too tightly for this measurement; you want to be generous. This is to ensure that your pattern has the bare minimum measurement to give enough room to fit over your hips and butt.
Center this measurement on the vertical line at the h line
Draw a smooth line from the waist to this hip measurement.
You should now have a shape approximately resembling the above.
“But wait!” you ask. “I am not a perfectly symmetrical tube! Right now, the pattern has too much of a ‘boob pocket’ on the back and not enough on the front!” Good catch, hypothetical reader.
Now we make some adjustments.
Copy your pattern. You have half a “front” and half a “back.”
Measure across the front of your bust at the fb line, from side seam to side seam. Divide this by 2 for the front.
Measure across the back at the fb line, from side seam to side seam. Divide this by 2 for the back.
Subtract fb from front. Add the missing width to the front along the side that does not have the armscye.
Do not attempt to evenly distribute this width across the center line, add it all to the armless side. You are (probably) not a perfectly symmetrical tube.
Subtract back from fb. Remove the missing width from the back, from the side that does not have the armscye.
Mark a SEAM ALLOWANCE around both pieces. I usually use ½” SA to give me plenty of wiggle room for seam finishing.
Cut a twin for the front and for the back, and label appropriately. My pieces are usually labeled ASHILDR KIRTLE FRONT MARCH 2025 MK1 SA ½”, This helps me readily toss the out-of-date pieces and patterns and more easily find the coordinating pattern for a given project.
Using the Bodice Block
You now have 4 panels for your kirtle, congratulations!
How do you extend these to floor length? The first and most fabric-efficient (read: cheapest) option is to draw a straight line down from the bottom of your pattern and let the gores do all the work for skirt fullness. The second option is to follow the angle established from your waist to your hip measurement all the way down. This is going to make pattern pieces that don’t nest quite as easily, but require fewer seams. My suggested best practice is the first option, as the straight grain to attach the gores helps prevent sagging over time. I generally prefer to be conservative with fabric usage and this offers the most conservative layouts, as everything is largely rectangular.
Now extend your pattern to floor length. How do I get that measurement right? Measure from your waist height to the floor.I prefer the top of your foot and recommend you consider where you will be wearing the dress. You can extend this later for a longer garment. For maximum accuracy in the draft and minimum hemming needs, for your back panels, measure from your waist to the floor over your butt. For your front panels, measure from your waist to the floor straight down. A resulting body panel may look like the following:
Gores are the usually-triangular pieces that give more volume to the garment without needing to cut the main body panels on the bias. I usually do at least 4 gores, a pair on each side of the body, and sometimes do 6 gores with a pair in the back. Most sources point towards having gores in the front as well. I prefer having a smooth line down the front and lots of volume in the sides and back.
I prefer the overall circumference of my dress to be approximately equal to or greater than my height. To calculate this for the “straight down” panel option, subtract your hip measurement from your height and divide by the number of gores you need. Add an inch (half an inch on each side) for seam allowance, and you will get a gore width that produces a kirtle with a hem circumference approximately equal to your height.
To attach your gores, make sure the bias edge (the hypotenuse or long edge) of the triangle is sewn to the straight edge of the body panel and that the grain edge (shorter leg) of the triangles are attached to each other. This will add strength and durability to the garment, as bias edges should almost always be sewn to straight edges. Woven fabric tends to stretch along the bias. If the side seam stretches and sags, the dress will develop an uneven “handkerchief” edge that will need to be adjusted or repaired multiple times over its lifetime. This will mean that the edge attached to the body panel is longer than the measurement from waist to hip. This problem is easily remedied with a quick trim and produces less overall waste than attempting to even out a handkerchief edge.
I install my side gores with the point at my waistline, and my rear gore a few inches above the waistline. This gives the fabric more room to spread across the rear to avoid the dreaded “buttcrack” seam.
Congrats! You’ve flat drafted a 14th century style kirtle! Remember to cut this out with seam allowance and baste together on your mock up fabric before you touch the good fabric. Even the most careful measuring and drafting is unlikely to get a perfect pattern right out the gate, but this should get you much closer to a final product without as many fittings needed.
Explanation of drafting sleeves to come in a future post, but remember that there’s lots of fun to be had with no or short sleeves! I frequently use a sleeveless kirtle of this type as a supportive undergarment, or as a layer to provide a smooth base for upper garments. I have fought both rapier and chivalric combat in a fully supportive and compressive kirtle of this type made in this way. Don’t tell the laurels, but I frequently use this type of gown as a base layer for Rus to provide more fullness to my skirts and compression to my torso.
This process was refined through the process of creating the Elizabeth le Despencer kirtle, pictured below.
I am aware that my "sincere" tone often comes out as "passive-aggressive" and I'm working on that. So, with the knowledge I'm going for "sincere" here, I want as many people as possible to know about a key difference between renfaires and SCA events.
Renfaires have audiences. SCA events have participants.
This means that SCA events are often a lot cheaper to get into, because there are no actors practising skits, just nerds like you who have been doing it a bit longer. You still can watch people sing and swordfight, but there's no plot to follow. Because we are doing this for ourselves.
And you can join in! We want you to join in! We want to teach you how to spin flax and swordfight and forge armor and build kilns!
Because you aren't an audience. You're playing the same game as the rest of us and you have to play by the rules. We will loan you garb. It's free, we're happy to do it. But if you refuse to wear it, we are permitted to ask you to leave, because you aren't following the rules of the event.
I know you don't have to wear garb at a renfaire, but the SCA isn't a renfaire.
Anyone can reblog this. Even if you don't intend on attending an SCA event or a renfaire you should know the difference.
KICK THE CAN!
Let’s play the biggest game of kick the can on the internet.
To kick the can, reblog it. I wanna see how long this can go on for.
the oldest reblogs for this post that i can find are from january 2nd of 2013. this can has been getting kicked around tumblr for almost 13½ years now
And yet somehow this is my first time kicking it!
Black Menswear modelled by Black Men
Creative Director Rock Mitchell
this and also there’s something very beautiful about watching in progress fics grow. shout out to in progress fics <3
pick one
your ship goes canon
your favorite ao3 writer drops 100k of your ship + your favorite trope
I mean, canon hasn't gotten anything right yet, why would I possibly think canonizing my ship would be their first win?
Legal experts say employers must take AI-related religious objections seriously, as a 2023 ruling raised the bar for denying such accommodat
"The funniest possible outcome of the AI mandate era is about to be HR departments discovering that 'sincerely held religious belief' under Title VII has a much lower bar than they assumed, and Pope Leo handed every Catholic employee a written excuse," wrote Corey Quinn, a software-startup founder in San Francisco, on X.
Employers could wind up in court if they outright dismiss workers who request a faith-based exemption from using AI, said Ashley Herd, a former McKinsey counsel and head of North American HR who now advises managers and employers on workplace issues.
"Playing priest, and telling employees their request isn't legitimate, does not tend to bode well for companies," said Herd, also a cohost of the "HR Besties" podcast. "A jury doesn't like it when employees get made fun of by managers or HR."
This is Hilarious.
I'm not currently a church-attender or a member of the UUA, but as someone who was born and raised Unitarian Universalist, I have to point out that the person who successfully received a religious exemption from using AI was not Catholic.
"Opposed to using AI for her software-engineering job, Erin Maus secured something of a miracle from her employer: a religious exemption.
Maus, a Unitarian Universalist, said she proposed the special treatment in April, citing environmental and ethical objections to AI that don't align with her religious beliefs. She also said she consulted an employment lawyer and her local chapter's minister to help make her case.
Maus was granted the accommodation in mid-May, according to an email seen by Business Insider."
I’m Episcopalian but if anyone needs help pretending to be Catholic in order to get out of using AI, I stand ready.
It’s that time of year again so here is your yearly reminder that the world isn’t ending and people don’t hate you. The sun is just setting at 6 pm.
Please take your vitamin D
HEY SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE GIRLIES, ITS OUR TURN TO ENDURE THE DARK DAYS NOW, BUT STAY STRONG. THE WORLD IS NOT ENDING; THE SUN IS JUST SETTING AT 5-to-6 PM. BUT SHE WILL COME BACK TO US SOON. TAKE A VITAMIN D AND HANG IN THERE.
Write it badly or it'll never be written
Write it badly or it'll never be written
Write it badly or it'll never be written
Write it badly or it'll never be written
Write it badly or it'll never be written
Please keep interacting with this post because when I come to tumblr to procrastinate, this shows up again in my notifications and guilts me into writing again
