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@svenspiration
“the ending is always the same”
war of the foxes - richard siken / waterloo - ABBA / euripides’ medea - the little theatre / anne carson / the three fates - luca cambiaso / the oresteia - aeschylus / road to hell II - hadestown / when i met you - mira lightner / andersen’s fairy tale anthology
Oath.
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OP is a Mauritanian student based in Beijing, and she joined the first Across Latitudes cultural exchange festival at China University of Geosciences. Cnetizens say she rocked both her traditional Mauritanian attire and Chinese hanfu. (cr 艾米 Amy)
art by Est Florane
Feminist fantasy is funny sometimes in how much it wants to shit on femininity for no goddamned reason. Like the whole “skirts are tools of the patriarchy made to cripple women into immobility, breeches are much better” thing.
(Let’s get it straight: Most societies over history have defaulted to skirts for everyone because you don’t have to take anything off to relieve yourself, you just have to squat down or lift your skirts and go. The main advantage of bifurcated garments is they make it easier to ride horses. But Western men wear pants so women wearing pants has become ~the universal symbol of gender equality~)
The book I’m reading literally just had its medievalesque heroine declare that peasant women wear breeches to work in the field because “You can’t swing a scythe in a skirt!”
Hm yes story checks out
peasant women definitely never did farm labour in skirts
skirts definitely mean you’re weak and fragile and can’t accomplish anything
skirts are definitely bad and will keep you from truly living life
no skirts for anyone, that’s definitely the moral of the story here
Now, a skirt that’s too long will be harder to work in–skirts brushing the floor may look elegant, but is also a tripping hazard–but that is not a problem with skirts in general, it’s a problem with that particular skirt not being suited to being worked in. Skirts are very practical. You can hike them up if you’re hot or need more freedom to maneuver (this is called “girding your loins”). If you need to carry something, you can lift up your hem and make a pouch just like the person in yellow in the bottom picture above. If you need to handle something hot, a skirt generally has enough material you can hold it out from your body to use as a hot pad. (Tight skirts were only used by people who didn’t need to work/move until the invention of elastic fabric.)
Long skirts were markers of class almost as much as gender. Both men and women in the European middle ages wore extravagantly long garments to indicate both “I’m so rich I can afford THIS MUCH fabric” and “I don’t walk in the mud, I pay servants to do that for me.”
Skirt hiking: Definitely a Thing. (Janet’s tied her kirtle green/above the knee and not below…)
Love this post, and want to add: another example of the “empowerment means shitting on feminity” is the bizarro way that this genre attacks basic survival skills like cooking and sewing as pointless, inferior or mutually exclusive with masculine pursuits (like your lady knight should probably know how to cook for herself and sew her own wounds and patch her clothes while she’s on her quest through the North to rescue her boyfriend, or this happy couple is in for a world of hurt!)
Or to quote one of my all favorite posts, “fuck women’s contribution to our survival.”
Historically, skirts have been the garment of choice for almost every culture, gender and class. Breeches, or pants, were created specifically for riding horses.
Meanwhile, men wearing skirts.
*bangs gavel* NEEDS MOAR SKIRT
(Seriously, the notes on this post are a goldmine for people mentioning their cultures where men wear skirts. I couldn’t fit them all in. This is missing toooons of cultures from every part of the globe, especially Asia, Africa, and the Americas.)
Ancient Rome
Modern Morocco
Medieval Europe
Traditional Saudi Arabia
16th century Russia
Traditional Papua New Guinea
16th century Turkey
Modern India
i deliver propane. this means driving a large truck, then dragging a heavy hose up to one hundred and fifty feet through people’s yards, usually in deep snow and severe cold. i was the first woman my company ever hired.
and when i showed up for work in a skirt, all the men went BALLISTIC. they told me i’d trip, i’d get stuck, i’d freeze, i’d quit within the month when i found that i had underestimated how hard the work was. i asked what they thought women wore to work outside before the mid twentieth century, and they told me “women didn’t work outside then. they stayed in the house all the time.” and that’s when i learned that hatred of the skirt is another way of erasing women’s history–if you can pretend that all women were too hobbled by their clothes to even function, you can pretend that they never contributed jack shit to society.
anyway i’ve been doing this job in a skirt for three years now, and all the men should be jealous of my complete range of movement and infinite layering potential.
Before the Spanish showed up and WRECKED OUR SHIT, precolonial Filipinos all wore skirts, dresses, and/or loincloths. It is much easier to weave a single piece of fabric, or a single tube of fabric, than it is to weave the fabric, pattern the fabric, cut the fabric, and sew the fabric into breeches. Why would you do that unless you had a practical reason to?
There were occasional examples of what looks like breeches in the Boxer Codex, a late 16th century Spanish manuscript that contains illustrated examples of the attire of the various ethnic groups in and around the Philippines, (along with ethnic groups from other Asian countries), but irl most likely those were just malong/patadyong (a garment that is a tube of fabric) tucked and tied to create breeches.
Please enjoy the below illustrations.
(There is a critical lack of mention of hanfu, yukata, or hanbok on this post. I only have the expertise to cover hanfu, but I don’t have the strength, spoons, or enough expertise to feel comfortable handling that so I’m hoping a hanfu expert can weigh in!)
the golden mask [commission]
Planet Earth & Sun
Nuno Craveiro Lopes, Polana’s Church, Maputo, Mozambique, 1962
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Igreja_da_Polana https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuno_Craveiro_Lopes
The Jottun - The Ritual (2017) by Keith Thompson
Meiji
drew with Emily!!! Sultan's game life drawing at Zeet studio
Wafrica: Japanese kimono tradition blended with African aesthetics
closeups of the guys
So peaceful Souvenir. A brother singing ancient Andalusian song in Al-hambra palace.
Unmute
The right amount of melancholy
This is one of my most favorite Andalusian muwashahat (an Arabic poem that’s specifically written to be sung). It was written in the 3rd century by an Arab poet from Granada, so it’s not very far fetched that the song has been sung at some point in that very palace centuries ago.
These are the lyrics in Arabic and English, in case anyone’s interested.
When he appeared with a sway in his walk My darling infatuated me with his beauty Oh, my fate and my confusion Who will have mercy on me when I complain Of anguish in love Except for the holder of beauty?
لما بدا يتثنى حبي جماله فتننا وعدي و يا حيرتي من لي رحيم شكوتي فى الحب من لوعتي إلا مليك الجمال
elsewhere
false hope
Mosquito-netting-covered bedroom in traditional Japanese farmhouse
