The GoGo Years

ITS ALL ABOUT THE JOURNEY

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Life Inside a Wet Lettuce

Life Inside a Wet Lettuce

Despite it being a blustery 2°C, yesterday’s stroll around the neighbourhood provided a glimmer of hope that the icy, wet winter may soon draw to an end. Bravely revealing their heads into the February gloom was a lone group of golden daffodils. A lonely group of brave daffodils Immediately, Wordsworth’s lines:                    “And then my heart with pleasure fills And dances with the…

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The Clovelly Conundrum

A chance viewing of a documentary on Devon and Cornwall revealed the small coastal village of Clovelly. Somewhere we’d never heard of. Clovelly harbour from the village We glanced at each other as the narrator waxed lyrical about its quaint whitewashed cottages, picturesque harbor and the fisherman and sole rubbish collector, who drags sleds up the steep hill to the road above this car-free…

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And it's into 2021 in the UK

It’s now a little over 6 months since we said a sad farewell to our friends and favourite beaches and haunts in sunny Port Elizabeth. Do we miss South Africa? Yes, without a doubt. Covid and lockdowns have made it impossible to meet new friends, take up our social pastimes or travel the country. And the weather, oh dear the weather, the less said about that, the better. Nice English weather After…

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Moving On

“The time has come” the Walrus said “to talk of many things”… of moving on to lands anew ‘board planes with silver wings. (Apologies to Lewis Carroll.)

I suppose that gives the game away – we’re emigrating.

The reasons:

Like so many South Africans, we’ve been concerned about the state of the country for some time. Load shedding, crime, state capture, the economy, water shortage, … the list is…

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We love spending a weekend in Johannesburg with our precious granddaughter but come Monday, the weekday boredom of ‘the big smoke’ weighs heavy. That’s when it’s time to escape and head off for few days of travel fun before returning for another delightful family weekend.

So many choices in the Berg

This time, the central Drakensberg and the Free State town of Clarens were our destinations of choice – and what great choices they were.

Entrance to Thokozisa Centre

One of the strange characters to greet you in the garden.

An easy 4½ hour drive from Johannesburg’s northern suburbs, is an ideal lunch stop at Thokozisa. With its regional information centre, wine cellar, restaurant, clothing outlets, deli and bar it’s far too impressive to be called a ‘padstal’.

After a delicious meal, a gentle stroll is always in order and Thokozisa, with its intriguing combination of thatched buildings, children’s play areas, quirky statuary and ethnic design provides the ideal place to do just that – and a little retail therapy, as well.

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Yum Yum – Lunch is served

Always time for some retail therapy

From there, it’s just a short drive to the Champagne Castle Hotel, our home for the next two nights. We loved this hotel on a previous visit and it certainly didn’t disappoint this time either. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, the views are magnificent, the service is swift and friendly and the grounds are beautifully maintained.

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Champagne Castle Reception

Pool with a view

But, the food, oh my goodness, the food! It is truly unbeatable!

Beware! If you are dieting, don’t read this bit!

All meals are served buffet style with an enormous array of delectable dishes to tempt even the most disciplined of dieter (which I certainly am not!).

Just imagine this: A breakfast spread of fresh fruit juice, porridge, fresh fruit, yoghurt, cereal, cheeses and cold meats, eggs to order, sausage, bacon, mushrooms, baked beans, cheesy grilled tomato, hash browns, kippers, smoked haddock, toast, freshly baked Danish pastries (they start work at 4am to bake them each morning), and a steaming cup of piping hot coffee or tea. A truly heavenly start to the morning!

A few hours later, there’s lunch:  Delicious soup and homemade breads, cold meats and salads, a variety of roast meats and vegetables, a curry, a pasta dish and an array of mouth-watering desserts.

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Just a ‘taste’ of breakfast

Teatime., twice a day!

And then there’s dinner: Similar to lunch but with even more choices. More meats, more hot mains and many more desserts. Added to these, the chef is on standby to conjure up fluffy waffles or light-as-a-feather pancakes. And finally, there’s an unmissable range of cheeses!

Three delectable meals a day, along with piping fresh scones with jam and cream served with coffee or tea each morning and afternoon – what’s not to love!

Okay dieters, you can start reading again!

So, there is a little time in between meals and no shortage of things to do. The hotel arranges daily guided hikes, while there are also shorter routes to do on your own … necessary to work off some of those calories. Horse riding is available on the premises, as is bowls, tennis, outdoor chess, a games room and a pool with a magnificent view. There’s also an on-site spa for those craving even more indulgence.

Self catering accommodation is also available at Champagne Castle

Winter temperatures mean that a brisk walk around the expansive gardens, the petting zoo and watching the peacocks display their jewel coloured feathers is sufficient to have us scurrying back to claim our places in the lounge, beside a toasty log fire.

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Peacocks wander the grounds

Horse riding available

Craft beer alert!

Chris has a favourite saying “Life and beer are very similar; chill for best results”. And so, we never go anywhere without first investigating the opportunity for him to explore his craft beer obsession. Sadly, the Drakensberg Brewery pub and tasting venue is only open Wednesday to Sunday from 11am until sunset. But never fear, although it was Tuesday and we were due to leave early the next day, we managed to buy a copious quantity at the bottle store at the Cedarwood shopping Centre. If you’re a fan, Chris heartily recommends their full-bodied ‘Amphitheatre Red Ale’. If not, I suggest you stroll along to The Ugly Duckling gift store with its plethora of unique collectables for a little retail therapy.

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Pub at Drakensberg Brewery – Pic from https://www.drakbrew.co.za

Something for everyone at the Ugly Duckling

All too soon our time in the Drakensberg was over and after promising to return (waistlines permitting), we packed our bags and headed off to Clarens to continue our adventure.

Keep posted and we’ll take you there next.

Kate – The GoGo Years

Champagne in the Mountains We love spending a weekend in Johannesburg with our precious granddaughter but come Monday, the weekday boredom of ‘the big smoke’ weighs heavy.

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As I settle down to write this post, I glance up to see the crystal blue of the Aegean. In the distance, pale islands rise out of the water. These are the Cyclades and I’m on a massive ferry journeying from the beautiful island of Santorini to the as yet unexplored island of Paros.

The Santorini Palace – Not a small boat

So what of Santorini? Is it all white buildings accented with their famous shade of blue? Well, no. It’s a volcanic remnant of craggy rocks, stony soil and buildings clinging tenuously to the edge of cliffs. It’s also a major leg workout – a constant climb and descent of steps, more steps and steep slopes.

View from Fira

Most of all, though, Santorini is very, very beautiful! The views over the caldera, the coves and hidden beaches, the small tavernas at the water’s edge, all make for picture postcard memories.

Here are a few of our favourite tips, things to do and places to visit:

Getting there

Santorini has an airport so it’s possible to fly there from Athens and various European cities (but not from the other islands). We are, however, on an island-hopping adventure so from Milos we booked a Sea Jet ferry to Santorini.

My advice is to try for the biggest ferry possible. We booked on Sea Jet 2, a small ferry and it was awful! The seats were comfortable enough and the facilities were fine, but the ride, oh the ride!

Seajet 2 (2 means 2 small)

It took off like it was being chased by Poseidon himself, crashing over the waves and throwing us around in our seats. All we could do was close our eyes and pray for the horror to end. Eventually, after 3 hours, it did and we arrived at the port in Santorini well shaken but ready to start the next chapter of our adventure – and what a chapter it was!

Best place to stay

If you are part of the ‘mega-moneyed’ set, which sadly we are not, Oia is without a doubt the place to be.

Our “cosy” room

  For the rest of us, Fira is the best base. The range of accommodation is vast so you’re sure to find something to fit your needs and budget. Just remember that Santorini is expensive! We stayed in a tiny room (I mean bed pushed into a corner, climb over each other tiny) on the opposite slope from the caldera for the same price as paid for a spacious junior suite on Milos. (See our post https://thegogoyears.com/milos-the-perfect-greek-island-escape/ )

    Getting around

Fira is the public transport ‘hub’ on Santorini. Getting around by bus is a little chaotic but it’s reliable and relatively cheap and you don’t have to find parking – a huge headache on the island. We caught the bus everywhere and soon learned to master the ‘non-queueing system’ that they seem to favour.

Tip: You have to catch the bus at the main terminus as it doesn’t stop anywhere else in Fira.

Santorini Local Buses at Fira

Day trip to Oia

Every photograph you’ve seen of Santorini was almost certainly taken in Oia. This is where you find the narrow cobbled streets and the pristine blue and white buildings you have been dreaming of.

Spectacular Oia

The narrow pedestrian walkways teem with restaurants, gift shops and restaurants. Look out for the amazing Atlantis Bookshop. It’s a treasure trove of eclectic books. The warm, friendly atmosphere invites you browse at your leisure with no pressure to buy (but you almost certainly will). Its quirky design aesthetic along with the most amazing viewing deck places it firmly in my top 3 favourite bookshops (along with Shakespeare & Co in Paris and Lello’s in Porto). You really shouldn’t visit Santorini without stopping in there.

Atlantis Bookshop – Awesome

Strolling through the town, stopping to listen to buskers, having lunch or a drink, browsing the shops and admiring the spectacular buildings and views along the way is a wonderful way to make memories.

He made the instrument himself!

A day trip here is a must and it’s also the best place on the island from which to view the sunset, preferably with a glass of wine in hand and your love by your side.

Take the cable car from Fira to the old port for dinner.

There’s nothing quite like eating a delicious meal at the water’s edge and that’s what you’ll get at the Old Port. Although there’s not much to see there, it’s lovely way to spend an evening.

Our dinner venue at the Old Port

Tip: Check that you’re not trying to do this when cruise ship passengers are making their way back to their boats … the queues for the cable car can be very long. Normally though, there’s no queue.

The famous Santorini donkeys

Tip: Riding the traditional donkeys or walking down to the port along the footpath may sound like fun but unless you have a strong stomach, maybe rethink this idea. The steps are covered in donkey poo and can be very slippery …ugh!

Water taxi to the red, white and black beaches.

From Fira, you can take the bus to Akrotiri and then a water taxi that’ll transport you to the beaches. We were a little disappointed as they were narrow, mainly pebbles and very crowded. Nonetheless, the coloured volcanic cliffs were magnificent and it’s well worth the trip to see them, if not to swim.

Red Beach

White Beach

Black Beach

Akrotiri is also a wonderful place for lunch at the water’s edge.

Lunch at The Wave

Tip: You can walk to the red beach from Akrotiri but the path is very steep and not worth the effort if you want to take the water taxi to see the black and white beaches as they charge for the round trip to all three.

So to sum up, Santorini is very expensive and it’s crowded but it’s also very beautiful and we’re so glad we included it in our island hopping adventure – you will be too.

Next, we’re off to Paros!

Kate – The GoGo Years

PS. Please share your experience of Santorini or any of the other Greek islands in the comments section. We’d love advice on where to visit next time we’re there.

    Sensational Santorini As I settle down to write this post, I glance up to see the crystal blue of the Aegean.

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A short 45 minute Olympic Airline flight from Athens lays the island of Milos. Guide books will tell you that its main claim to fame is the statue of Venus de Milo (Aphrodite) that was unearthed here in April 1820. For us, however, its initial appeal was that it’s (relatively) undiscovered, thus less expensive and crowded than the other islands we visited.

Venus de Milo

This translates into an even warmer welcome, better service and friendlier people than we experienced elsewhere (if that’s even possible). Add to this picturesque villages and more than 70 beautiful beaches and you have the hidden jewel of the Cyclades.

  Adamas

We were on the island for only 3 nights but there’s so much to explore, we plan to return here for a much longer visit.

Pollonia

We chose to stay in the port town of Adamas as this is where both the buses around the island and the ferries all leave from. It’s a great choice for those keen to explore, but if lazing on a beach is more to your taste and you’re on the island for long enough, consider splitting your time between here and the picturesque seaside village of Pollonia.

Restaurant in Adamas

Apparently, the very best way to discover the magic of Milos is to take a boat trip around the island. Unfortunately, as I’m a very bad sailor and the sea was rather choppy while we were there, we decided to give it a miss but when we return, this will be at the top of my list.

Beach directly in front of our apartment

Although the bus service around the island is good, we decided instead to hire a car and go exploring. This is where we went:

Sarakiniko

How do I describe this amazing phenomenon? It’s not a beach as there’s only one small inlet with a little sand. It’s not cliffs as the land is not high enough above the sea. I can only say that it’s other-worldly … a spectacular lunar landscape that defies description. Breath-taking formations of white volcanic ash rocks cover the area, plunging down into the sea below.

Sarakiniko

It’s also a magical place for a dip in the ocean. We took the easy route via the little beach but those more intrepid than us plunged into the deep water from sparkling white rocks.

While there, we also explored the tunnels that have been excavated into the rock. They’re a great place to escape the midday sun, but be warned, some less considerate souls have used them as a toilet.

Tip 1: To save your feet from the sharp stones, use wet shoes to venture into the sea from the little beach.

Tip 2: We’re happy to say that Sarakiniko is completely unspoiled. There’s nothing there apart from a bus stop and a mobile shop (in season, weather and owner’s desire permitting) so take something to eat and drink with you.

Pollonia

This is a very pretty holiday village on the north eastern tip of the island and perhaps the best place to stay if it’s a beach holiday that you’re after. The sand curves around the bay in an arc of gold while the warm Aegean Sea laps gently on the shore. It’s exactly what you imagine a Greek island paradise to be. It’s also home to beach tavernas and the only vineyard on the island – always worth a visit. But beware, once the daily round of sand, sea and food begins to pall, there’s not much to do here but hire a vehicle or take a bus and go exploring.

Pollonia restaurants

  Plaka

Plaka is the capital of Milos and is the most picturesque place on the island with bright coloured bougainvillea tumbling over white-washed buildings and a labyrinth of old cobbled streets to explore. It’s also the best place on the island from which to view the sun setting over the ocean … a truly memorable experience!

Plaka

  Tripiti

On the advice of our wonderful host, Lena (more about her later), we drove the short distance from Plaka to the tiny village of Tripiti for dinner on an open air balcony. Delicious food, good wine, friendly service and a spectacular view all combined to create a fitting end to a memorable day.

Sunset in Tripiti

Where to stay in Adamas:

There are a myriad of places to stay in Adamas but, for us, nowhere could have been better or more convenient than Villa Notos. It’s a five minute walk from the ferry port, great restaurants and shops and directly opposite a small swimming beach. Our room (we were lucky enough to have a junior suite) was spacious, very comfortable and spotlessly clean but it was the kindness of our gracious host, Lena that was its crowning glory. What a lady! Having been born and spent most of her life on Milos, she knows everyone and everything there is to know. She’ll give you marvellous advice, arrange an airport pickup, car hire at a special rate and ply you with her delicious homemade cakes and warm hospitality.

Villa Notos, Adamas, Milos

For further information or to book email [email protected] or visit their website www.villanotos.gr

With heavy hearts we bid goodbye to Milos and remain determined to return as soon as possible.

Next stop … Santorini!

Kate – The GoGo Years

PS. Share your favourite Greek island experience with us in the comments section below.

Milos – The Perfect Greek Island Escape A short 45 minute Olympic Airline flight from Athens lays the island of Milos. Guide books will tell you that its main claim to fame is the statue of Venus de Milo (Aphrodite) that was unearthed here in April 1820.

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It’s so easy to hop on a plane to get to our destination of choice in double quick time that we often forget the joy of driving through unexplored landscapes.

Just lately we’ve rediscovered these delights (see Road Tripping and The Winelands) and so we left Meteora in our hired Citroen C3 full of anticipation. A road trip to Delphi for a one night stay and then back 180 km to Athens – what a delight!

Driving the mountain passes

Well, suffice to say, it didn’t disappoint! The never ending mountain passes, hairpin bends and breath-snatching descents into olive-groved valleys were amazing. Add to that my constant calls to “Keep right. Keep right!”, (the Greeks drive on ‘wrong’ side of the road) and we had an unforgettable journey.

Coffee stop between Lamia and Delphi

Hilltop village on the way to Delphi

Too soon the road trip was over and we arrived in Delphi, the home of the mystical Oracle. It’s really much smaller than I had imagined – a village with only one main and a couple of ancillary streets. As with so many villages of this size, parking was a nightmare. Luckily, we’d picked the only hotel that has basement parking!

Before checking in, we went in search of a light lunch.

The view from many of the restaurants in Delphi

Tip: Don’t order the ham and cheese platter. That’s what you get – a plate dotted with small cubes of ham and cheese – nothing else – for a lot of euros. The Greeks are nothing if not literal!

Still hungry but resigned, we were soon on our way to visit the main event, the Delphi Museum and the famous Temple of Apollo, home to the Oracle.

Ruins of the Temple of Apollo

Greek mythology has it that two eagles were released by Zeus to fly around the world in opposite directions. Where they met (Delphi) was its centre, the place where heaven and earth met and man was closest to God. Thus, Delphi became a sacred centre for the worship of Apollo, the son of Zeus, who embodied moral discipline and spiritual clarity. Central to this was the Temple of Apollo and at its centre was the seat of Pythia (the high priestess and oracle).

The Pythia was a young virgin whose life was dedicated to acting as a mouthpiece between Apollo and man. Leaders travelled from around the known world to consult with her on critical matters. Her prestige made Delphi the richest of the Hellenic provinces.

Reconstructed Treasury of Athens at Delphi

With this information stored in our memory banks, our first stop was the Archaeological Museum of Delphi. This is widely regarded as the top must-see museum in Greece as it contains wonderfully preserved and beautifully displayed statues and artefacts, including the famous charioteer. These were unearthed during the excavation of the ancient site. Be warned though, the guards here are fierce so be sure to turn off your flash and speak quietly!

The Charioteer

Statue of Agias of Pharsala (left), part of the dedication of Daochos

Trying to decide who has the best bum, Cleobis or Biton

By now it was starting to rain, but undeterred, we briskly took off up the hill to the temple which is situated high on the slopes of Mt Parnassus. The remains of the Temple of Apollo are beautiful and the views stunning. After another uphill slog, we arrived at the magnificent amphitheatre. By this time it was raining quite hard so instead of venturing further, we decided to call it a day and head back to our comfortable hotel, the Nidimos to check in.

The Amphitheatre

After another delicious Greek dinner, a good night’s sleep and delicious breakfast at the hotel, we were off back to Athens, culturally replete and ready for our short flight to what turned out to be our favourite Greek island, Milos.

Join us next week for the start of our Greek island hopping adventure. No more temples and culture but loads of sun, sea and sightseeing, island style!

Kate – The GoGo Years

PS. Please have your say on this or anything else in the comments section. We love to hear from you!

Divine Delphi It’s so easy to hop on a plane to get to our destination of choice in double quick time that we often forget the joy of driving through unexplored landscapes.

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The Monasteries of Meteora

The Monasteries of Meteora

Just on the outskirts of the tiny village of Kastriki in central Greece is a phenomenon that defies belief. Nature and man have combined to create a place of unimaginable grandeur and spiritual elevation. In Greek they’re called meteora which means ‘suspended in the air’. Despite being an accurate description of these immense natural sandstone towers that soar above the surrounding plain, the…

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Amazing Athens

When I was in primary school (not long ago, you understand :)), I learned all about the world’s great civilizations – the ancient Egyptians, the Roman empire and of course, the Greeks. I was hooked and spent hours illustrating essays on the pyramids and building dodgy models of the Coliseum and the Parthenon, all with very limited academic success.

Nonetheless, it’s a fascination…

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Travelling Light

I absolutely love travelling. Anyone who knows me, knows this. What they may not know however, is that I hate packing. For some it’s the start of the excitement, the planning of what they’ll wear when, where and for how long, but for me, it’s pure torture.

It all began 15 years ago when we were on holiday in Thailand. After some time in Singapore and then Bangkok, we had boarded a ferry to…

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Live Each Moment

In his memoir A Million Steps, Kurt Koontz recounts his 490 mile hike along the historic Camino de Santiago route. It not only tests his physical and mental endurance but also forces him to re-evaluate his life and reflect on the choices he has made thus far.

While effortlessly striding along, (he never seems to fall victim to the maladies that afflict his fellow pilgrims), Koontz has what Oprah…

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Spidermen are my Superheroes

Spidermen are my Superheroes

I’ve often admired those who choose to make their living in unconventional ways. You know the ones I mean – the brave folk who shun the dictates of society to ‘get a proper job’. The people for whom sitting behind a desk is abhorrent. Those who follow their passion and quite literally make it pay. There are, however, others for whom an alternative way of life isn’t by design but by necessity.…

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Wandering the Winelands – Part Three

Wandering the Winelands – Part Three

Music is the wine that fills the cup of silence – Robert Fripp, English guitarist and songwriter (1946–)

I love music and I love wine. So, barrelling along the R60 with Andrea Bocelli’s Romanza filling the air, my love at my side and vineyards as far as the eye can see is my idea of heaven. We were on our way to our final stop, Montagu.

Montagu is only about 130km from Paarl so it was to be a…

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Wandering the Winelands – Part Two

Wandering the Winelands – Part Two

“Wine is bottled poetry.” – Robert Louis Stevenson (1850–1894)

Day 2 saw us wending our way through the Drakenstein valley. Its green and gold vineyards, guarded by the Simonsberg, Du Toitskloof and Franschhoek mountains, is the perfect place to search for poetic inspiration, or at least a bottle or two of wine in which to look for it.

Our first stop was Babylonstoren. We’d heard much about…

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Wandering the Winelands - Part One

Wandering the Winelands – Part One

“Wine is sunlight, held together by water” – Galileo Galilei.

I believe that there’s no better time to chase the sunlight than late autumn and if I can capture a few bottles (or even better, cases) of wine while I’m at it, so much the better.

There may be better justifications for a trip to the Cape winelands but really, who needs an excuse? And so it was that we found ourselves on a road trip…

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The Road Less Travelled

The Road Less Travelled

If you’re a travel junkie like me, there’s nothing better than a road-trip. Miles and miles of open road ahead, expansive scenery and endless possibilities … heavenly!

Okay, okay, I hear you. “Nothing better?” you say. “What about cruising around tropical islands, exotic cocktail in hand or stepping aboard the Orient Express?”

Well, that’s true but we don’t belong to the ‘lifestyles of the rich…

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