We Speak Style

[wespeakstyle-blog]

"So hawt right now" ...?

It's fashionable to be 'in' fashion. I don't mean that you're wearing the latest season's pieces or sitting front row. It's the actual work being done that people want a piece of; everyone is a stylist, a make-up artist, an editor or a writer. Many people are magically all of these things! The amazing thing is that the majority of these people that I've met know very little about the industry they are trying so hard to be a part of. 

With the broadening of celebrity culture, fashion has gone from being a second-thought for most to being one of the most coveted industries around. It seems we all want a piece of it.

What is confusing is out of those 'million girls who would kill for that job', how many of them know anything about the history of fashion. I'm not talking Victorian trends here; I mean the background of designers, how the big Houses got to be so big, why a trend emerges and why it fades away. The inner workings of one of the toughest businesses there is. 

I'm a compulsive fashion magazine buyer. Monthly I'll pick up the UK editions of Elle, Harper's, Vogue and Marie Claire (some of the best human interest features) as well as Image, Tatler and Social and Personal. I'm also a new advocate of Rankin's Hunger which is bi-annual. 

And people are surprised when I say I'm not a big blog reader. Surely that's a cheaper way to get my kicks? Maybe it would be, if finding more than a handful that actually have anything informative to say was easier. 

Don't get me wrong, there's plenty of opinionated bloggers out there but I'm looking for a reasoned argument not just outfit posts, image collections and lists of your favourite designers. I'm not saying I'm the font of all fashion knowledge, but I try. I know the people who read about fashion aren't stupid, I know they want to hear about more than whatever colour is the new black. Give me an educated angle on the news, tell me about an up-and-coming designer - just tell me something new!

[Images: Linked]

K

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Look of the Day ...

Elie Saab always gets it right for me. He's the go-to guy if you want stunningly pretty gowns. It's when you see him work with darker colours that you see the real detail and skill that goes into his pieces. Take a minute and just look at this dress; look at the variation in materials, changes in pattern, the overlaying and the tailoring. It's detailed without being fussy, covered-up without being frumpy and sexy but still infinitely chic. The solid belt is really working for me too - adds a little bit of toughness, along with the hair. PS: I'm seriously all for the long sleeves!

[Image: Linked]

K

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Look of the Day ...

Bouchra Jarra doesn't get half enough love in my opinion. Her couture is so effortless and clean and I find it really refreshing. I'm seriously crushing on this dress. The way the fabric hangs off the body is really lovely and that's what you pay for with couture. The cut and quality of the fabric gives that gorgeous movement. Of course it helps that the model is beautiful and adds to the Oriental feel of the dress but in everyday life it would be in no way coutume-y. Bouchra is often overlooked by the media during CFW. I guess it's because she's not with an old-money house or she doesn't go in for the hype and drama that goes along with fashion shows. But, for me, the clothes speak for themselves. 

[Image: Linked]

K

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The Very Talented Sanyukta Shrestha

Ok, before you get any ideas, no I'm not getting married. But I was lucky enough to help out on an bridal shoot last week and came across. The. Most. Amazing pleated skirt by Sanyukta Shrestha. It was love at first swish! So apparently us girls are meant to have our entire wedding party planned and booked by age 12; well that was never my thing but lets just say the dress is sorted now.

Born in Nepal and now working out of London the secret beauty Shrestha brings to these stunning designs is that they are all eco-friendly. "Love Green - Believe in Ethics" is the ethos behind a brand that only launched last year but has seen a fast rise in the bridal world. Here in Ireland her worked is stocked in Little White Dress in Dublin.

What got me with that one skirt at the shoot was that the fabric was that perfectly white, perfectly crisp cotton. It felt natural and strong and like there was something to it - if you know what I mean? If I didn't have serious issues keeping white clothes white and didn't have to manage on a graduate budget I probably would have bought it, you know, for clubbing? 

I try not to stray too far on my blog but it's important to write about what grabs your attention. So if any beautiful brides-to-be stumble on this post then I hope this was somewhat useful/inspiring. If not ... all the more for me in about thirty years time!

[Images: Linked]

K

[wespeakstyle-blog]

Liam Fahy Footwear

I recently discovered Liam Fahy and I think I might be in love. His shoes are unreal. They're like if Nicholas Kirkwoods and Jimmy Choos got together to create the most beautiful footwear you've ever seen. NOM!

With such an interesting background it is little wonder that he creates such unusual pieces. Born to an Irish father and an English mother, Liam was raised on a snakefarm in Zimbabwe. He came up surrounded by stone sculptors, weavers and artists and spent some time living with the Batonka tribe. The man has lived ten lives before he even had a career!

He studied his craft at De Montfort University in Leicester where he won lots of awards and whatnot. He even won the first Fashion Fringe accessory award which was judged by none other than Manolo Blahnik. If this wasn't qualification enough he honed his skills alongside Rupert Sanderson in Italy. I know!! 

But if you've fallen for Liam Fahy like I have, sorry guys, his entire SS'12 and AW'12 footwear collections are sold out! But he has some handbags due this winted so remember to check them out. If the craftsmanship is anything like that in his shoes, you won't want to miss it. 

[Images: Linked]

K

[wespeakstyle-blog]

Look of the Day ...

Oh please, you knew this week's LOTD was going to be couture! And what better way to begin than with Raf Simon's debut at Dior? Now the reactions have varied from the dawn of a new era for the House to just plain cautious. Well I loved it. I think that yes, it was very much a Raf show but think back to Galliano's couture presentations - they were all John. Today we saw the New Look but given a clean, crisp makeover. This pink coat dress was one of the first looks and one of my favourite. The similarities to his last show at Jil Sander show that Raf is no puppet, he is here to make his mark. The nipped in waist and the hips are totally Dior. I love the colour, I love the gorgeous feeling of weight and of course, the perfect tailoring. There were other, equally lovely, and more elaborate pieces but this was the one for me. For me the drama of couture shouldn't come from the production or the set, it should come from the clothes. These were impeccably simple clothes that made you sit up and take notice. 

[Image: Linked]

K

[wespeakstyle-blog]

Look of the Day ...

Ok so this week's LOTD have been pretty minimalist and monotoned but it's Friday so let your clothes celebrate! Peter Pilotto is one of the best at working with prints at the minute. I love the patterns he creates and how it turns a simple silhouette into something so striking. It feels more organic than some of the other options being shown and much of his pieces would work for a girl of 18 to a woman of 60 - maybe not this skirt, but hey who am I to judge? My favourite thing about this piece is that it truly is a day-to-night look. The neat, almost business-like cut makes it perfect for officewear (slip probably necessary depending on workplace) but the detail makes it just as suitable to a night out. I also really like the sleeves, sometimes I feel they're overlooked but they can really add something to an item. The simple hair, makeup and shoes work so well; I don't know if I want to be the Pilotto girl, or be her best friend!

[Image:Linked]

K

[wespeakstyle-blog]

Irish Fashion: where's the love?

Irish fashion has good news and bad news. "Good news first you say?" - Well the simple fact is that we are home to some of the most talented, creative, grounded and exciting craftpeople and designers there are. Walk into any shop stocking pieces of Irish design and you will see innovative clothes that are well-made and, most importantly, unlike anything you'll see elsewhere. But then comes the bad news, that which is holding our industry back to the point of killing it. It's the total unsupportive attitude taken by those in power here in Ireland. What could be a thriving and profitable enterprise is being all but ignored.

I've been meaning to write this post for months and months; well since I was doing my thesis and the topic was brought up again and again. I've touched on it briefly in other posts but never went into it in too much detail. 

Since my thesis, which was on the Irish fashion industry as a whole, I've been so excited about what's going on here on our small country. The skill and talent you can find in tiny shops and side streets is second to none and it is being overshadowed by shiny high-street shopfronts. 

It's maddening when the possibilities are so great for any one of these designers and yet they struggle to get their name out there, to show at fashion weeks and to scrounge a living from what they do. And unless you're willing to change your aesthetic to suit a wealthy lady of a certain age and style it's unlikely to pay the bills. 

Have you seen Eilis Boyle, Natalie B Coleman, Sinéad Doyle, Umit Kutluk or Tim Ryan? Pictures don't do their work justice. You need to see how Tim's fringed dresses move on the body, how soft the cashmere is in one of Eilis' capes or marvel at the sheer craftmanship in Umit's dresses. It's exciting for anyone who loves fashion and it's certainly more satisfying than anything Topshop can give you.

British fashion is a massive part of how England is seen today. They encourage young designers, applaud the old and follow them closely every step in between. Why can't we do that? I know, I know we're in a recession but think of the jobs that would be created. We once had a manufacturing industry that was used by English designers because it was so good. Why couldn't we begin to rebuild it?

I interviewed a fourth year student from Limerick School of Art and Design a few months ago. She used traditional embroidery techniques on clean tailoring and it was really powerful to see. She told me she will probably go into buying when she's done because she could not afford to sustain herself as a designer. When someone so talented, with internships at some of the biggest design houses in the world under her belt, is saying that there's something wrong.

*Phew* Rant over! 

[Images: Linked]

K

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Look of the Day ...

Hussein Chalayan pretty much saved my life during my Foundation Art and Design course. Ok, that might be a little dramatic but he did play a huge role in almost every project I completed. Basically, any idea I came up with I could find something of Chalayan's to reference from. Be it the bubble dress or the table dress they all made up my design moodboard and I've followed the House fairly closely ever since. The thing about the label is not just that the designs are visionary, creative and bold, it's that despite all this the pieces are so wearable. Take this look, it's simple and flamboyant, familiar but like nothing else I've seen. I want it! Now the mules, I take issue with (it really seems like I'm shoe bashing this week!). They just don't do it for me one bit and they never have. Oh and I'm not sure why the model looks so pissed to be walking in sure an amazing show? ... Bet she doesn't like the shoes either!

[Image: Linked]

K

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NEWSFLASH: Dolce and Gabbana to do Couture

It has been confirmed that Dolce and Gabbana are taking a foray into couture. They will present their work on July 9 but *gasp* they will not show in Paris. In fact it will be shown in Taormina, Sicily and the audience will be a select group which will only have representitves from only three news organisations. The Financial Times suggest that the choice to show away from the couture mecca is to avoid the city's  strict rules as to who can call themselves a 'couture house'. Either way I bet you can bank on some gorgeous, sexy, corsetted ladies.

[wespeakstyle-blog]

Look of the Day ...

So this summer is special for me because my big brother Derrick is getting married. Not only that but he's beautiful fiancé is from Omaha, Nabraska and that's where the wedding is going to be. Can you say adventure? This will be my first wedding since I was a bald, cake-like flowergirl at 2yrs old and I get to be a bridesmaid. I'm seriously excited but it does mean I don't have to find the perfect outfit for the day so, I'm finding it for the rehersal dinner instead! I'm thinking a slim-fit suit with seriously crisp white shirt? I love this Gucci one, though the dipped neckline might be a little much? I don't want to be that sister! I'm not one for the fussy wedding attire that is so often the norm and with the right accessories (and less creepy eye makeup) I think this could be pretty perfect. What do you think?

[Image: Linked]

K

[wespeakstyle-blog]

Look of the Day ...

Is there anything more perfect that white clothes? I mean proper, crisp, clean white. I love it and I really think it packs more of a punch these days than any of your fussy prints. Clare Waight Keller is getting it so right at Chloé, there's something very fresh about what she's showing. This look is at once prim, feminine, strong, modern and sexy - that's one hardworking outfit! The model looks beautiful and fresh-faced and the clutch adds a little toughness to the whole deal. Not too sure about the shoes but hey, let's be honest, noones eyes are going below that skirt are they? 

[Image: Linked]

K

[wespeakstyle-blog]

Sinéad Doyle AW'12/'13

I am a firm believer that Irish design is on a par with it's international counterparts. We not only produce amazing, forward-thinking design but these pieces are commonly made here in Ireland and more ethical than some of the bigger brands. I haven't covered any AW collections yet but Sinéad Doyle's AW'12/'13 is the perfect example of the talent of our homegrown designers. 'Resurgence' is a strong, dark collection that at once looks minimalist and luxurious. LOVE!

I've liked Sinéad's tailoring since I was introduced to her work a few years ago and here often monotoned palatte is something I can definitely get on board with. I imagine that in her clothes you feel powerful and feminine at once, and what woman doesn't want that? The expert craftmanship is evident but this collection shows the curves of the body too. I want that leather top!

This gorgeous coat is another of my favourite pieces from the line. I love it's strength and how amazingly badass does Patricia look in it? Of course Sinéad's tailoring is perfect, something we kind of take for granted until you see how much better it fits than your high street pieces.

Oh but don't worry if you don't like to take it too dark for winter. Sinéad added one colourful luck and when I say that I mean colourful! The lovely printed, slim-leg trousers are going on my wishlist and the high collar and buttoning gives the jacket  a biker feel. Perfect if you're tired of the whole leather jacket thing. 

I would wear any of these new pieces but not with Lita, they're just not my thing. Don't ask my why, I know everyone else has fallen for them *bad fashion girl!!*. But that's beside the point; the Sinéad Doyle AW'12/'13 collection is unreal and will be in shops from July/August but if you spy something that tickles your fancy be quick! Some of the pieces are limited edition.

Oh a quick PS: Conor Clinch photographed the collection and the lovely ladies from  Absolute the Agency. He's an amazing photographer and, last time I checked, he was only 16/17! Completely proving that quality and age don't necessarily go hand-in-hand and another example of the talent we have here in Ireland, if only we'd nuture it more.

[Images: Conor Clinch]

K

[wespeakstyle-blog]

Look of the Day ...

I've come to terms with the fact that living in Ireland means I have to endure wet, cold, changeable weather more than any person ever should. So I've decided that because I spend 360 days of the year either cold or with a cold, I deserve a holiday. I don't care where as long as it's cheapp, it's hot and it had a ready supply of cocktails within arms reach. Ok I have one more request; can I please look as badass as this Micheal Kors model as I sip my mojito? I mean forget about her unreal (in all senses of the word) tan, how well is she wearing that monokini? Ok the boots aren't my cup of Barrys, mainly because I am not blessed with the legs of a model, but you can definitely tell there's Irish dancing in my past! But I love the slightly pink lips, the defined but not attention-hogging brows and the laid back cool hair. The man knows how to sell a lifestyle!

[Image: Linked]

K

[wespeakstyle-blog]

Saint Laurent Paris?

During that designer reshuffle a few months ago Hedi Slimane was announced as the new captain of the Yves Saint Laurent ship. Some were surprised, some were delighted and almost all were interested to see what this legend of menswear could bring to the table. Well, I bet none of us thought this would be his first big move! 

It has been confirmed this morning that Mr. Slimane will drop the 'Yves' from the brand's title and make it Saint Laurent Paris. I mean when a new designer comes to power you expect some changes as they try to meld their aesthetic with the label ... but come on now!

The reasoning behind this massive change to one of the biggest fashion houses in existence? Slimane wants to give the brand a modern revamp while still keeping some of the traditional YSL features. 

I don't know, it seems a little like they pulled in this great designer with a massive reputation and persona, andwith him came all the expectations of what will come next for fans of the label. Instead of risk annoying him, or worse, losing him, they are letting him have make changes that could damage the brand irreparably. Also, don't pretend Slimane never notices the the new SL Paris label will fit better with his own name?

The change will be brought in for his debut SS'13 collections so I guess only time will tell how this renaming will go down.

[Images: Linked]

K

[wespeakstyle-blog]

Maison Martin Margiela for H&M

Ok so it's official, Maison Martin Margiela is collaborating with H&M. I just have two questions; has the H&M marketing team won an award yet for bringing in big time designers one after another? And, more importantly, am I the only one in the world who doesn't go in for these collaborations? 

This one is for the boys two, if he's brave enough to don Margiela! Both the womenswear and menswear lines will hit the shops on November 15th (Chrismas presents, hello!), which gives them plenty of time to seriously hype this up. Which they will because they know that any collaboration they do now will get column inches and serious queues. 

The whole collaboration thing doesn't sit right with me. I've never lined up at 6am for a scrap of the Versace collection or trawled the sales for whatever came from Lanvin. First of all, I don't think of these lines as 'high fashion'. Even if they came from the pencil of the designer they are mass-produced as part of the fast-fashion market. What's the point in buying 'designer' if you're not getting at least the guarentee that it's well-made in, hopefully, better conditions.

It's all about sales and I've never seen a company rack up excitement among consumers as well as H&M. To me the pieces feel like the label is watering down their 'real' designs and charging over the average high street price for your pleasure. But you're 'buying into the brand' and how good of them to make it so 'accessible for all ages and bank balances', right? Maybe, and if you feel like that then please, enjoy. I just don't believe it.

What it seems their doing, to me, is jumping at the chance to create a highly lucrative line that's super-quick to bang out and get on the shelves. It gets them in the headlines and, better yet, in the high street magazines where young people with disposable income will spot and want it. 

In terms of the high fashion brands involved, it kills me to see some of my favourite designers dumbing down their collections so they are more commercial. I was never so happy as I was when I read Tom Ford say he will never do a collaboration. I can in no way afford pieces by the designers I love, but the saving and the excitement is great and the sense of pride when you wear it is something you just can't buy on the high street.

For Maison Martin Margiela, there will be lines of people who know nothing of the brand; of it's history, of it's previous collections or of it's avant garde image. And they never will because they will buy their seriously shoulder-padded blazers and their all white outfits that vaguely resemble pieces from the design house.

They will feel like street-style super stars for a few weeks and Tumblr will explode with snapshots of the line. Then they will hit the return rack, then eBay and then they'll be forgotten. Where a high fashion piece is bought as an investment to be treasured and admired, these lines end up the way most high street pieces do, forgotten in a drawer or in a landfill. It's marketing genius!

Am I just getting mean and cynical in my old age? 

[Images: Linked]

K

[wespeakstyle-blog]

Look of the Day...

Ok it's raining in Dublin. That in itself is nothing new but when I say raining I'm talking torrential, monsoon-type rain. This makes looking halfway decent pretty difficult unless you're springing for taxis. So for my Look of the Day I'm going on a trip of pure fancy and pretending I live somewhere that, you know, gets it's seasons at the right time! I've loved Holly Fulton since she appeared on the scene a few years ago. My favourite thing about her designs is the simple, strong silhouette covered in detailed, colourful pattern. And I'm a sucker for wide-leg trousers. So here's today's look. Love the slight  detailing on the top, love the easy tailoring and the blue nails are great too. Basically, this is what I want to be wearing, somewhere that it's weather-appropriate.

[Image: Linked]

K