A fictional feature: Sinners wear Couture
A fictional feature written by myself, one outcome among others of my ongoing studies in fashion in creative London. A think piece about theatre in fashion and Couture's meanings in present society. /C.
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A fictional feature: Sinners wear Couture
A fictional feature written by myself, one outcome among others of my ongoing studies in fashion in creative London. A think piece about theatre in fashion and Couture's meanings in present society. /C.
MODE SUISSE, Edition 9 / Keeping it cool
'Robe à la française', a well-established term of the fashion dictionary, as sure as door frames have now lost all of their past magnificent width. 'En MODE SUISSE' has potential for being next on the list.
Utopias & potatoes at Somerset House
There is a light to be found in Thomas Moore 500 years old envisioned Utopia. What regards fashion at least. Sad reality is that it is barely impossible for the following countries – Czech Republic, Poland, Hungary and Slovakia – to enter the international fashion scene.
Who actually would think ‘fashion’ when Poland’s history is synonym of communism, babushka and…potatoes?
Fair enough.
Liberty, ‘the chosen resort of the artistic shopper’
Until February 28th 2016 the London Fashion and Textile Museum is hosting over 150 garments, textiles and objects paying homage to the British established retailer and originator of key trends in fashion history for now 140 years: Liberty London.
Les Ballets Russes to Fashion: 'Astonish me!'
YSL’s fashion built a significant relationship to art, particularly through the homage collections to Mondrian and Serge Poliakoff (1965), later to Picasso (1979). The Mondrian print “block[ed] out the new proportions“, unveiling much more leg. Picasso and cubism represented “the permanence of classicism and breath-taking imagination“. Willing to dress the bodies “that would ascend the barricades in 1968“, Saint Laurent also found inspiration in Pop Art movements.
Rebellious renewal of Romanticism
Saint Laurent SS16 collection gave a new twist to romanticism: women are moody, girls with attitude will blossom down the streets next spring, no matter if strange, tough or glamorously punk. Named ‘Romantic Rebellion’, this trend is all about “material composition and textural amplification“. Florals are around the corner but “against dark grounds, either smudged, packed, placed, outlined or distorted“.
A 'déjà vu' of music, youth and heroines
Mirroring not only the tortured psychedelic years of Monsieur Saint Laurent, last ready-to-wear SS16 show venue promoted a multifaceted ‘perfect imperfection’. Grunge princesses revisited femininity. Predominant short dresses draw a comfortable 2015’s lifestyle, while long ones speak for an insecure social climate. Present European situation being not flourishing, Saint Laurent’s amazons go not with the flow but impose their own. Taking shelter in Glastonbury festival nostalgia, models share a rebel gaze. History matches Hedi Slimane’s injected aesthetics into Yves Saint Laurent’s heritage, i.e. music and youth subculture.
London Fashion Weekend 2015: behind the beautiful some consciousness
As soon as London Fashion Weekend arrives, fashionistas rush up. This big pop-up offers a large choice of clothing, from designer concession to vintage and affordable pieces. Newly at the Saatchi Gallery, the event not only pushes to consumption, as much enjoyable as it can be, but also innovates thanks to designers who care for our planet.
AW15-16 Fashion proving a Modern Redefinition of Masculinity
While gender boundaries are getting exploded, men make actually (good) use of it. They wear eyeshadow for Ann Demeulemeester last AW15 collection – back to the rockstars in a way, and that's fine because Johnny's eyeliner have more than sex appeal. They also wear holed knitwear at the Chi's position, by Craig Green – as if the males weren't originally sensitive enough, one pierces the shield right in the middle. At least, Yohji Yamamoto made them dirty, bearded – back to the primitive roots.
Music Festivals & History: clothes had something to say
Did you know that the origin of the most famous present music festivals find their roots in the Pythian Games, in Ancient Greece? Variating from athletic to musical type, those competitions were held in honor of Apollo. The live music scene evolved since then, relative to it clothing did the same. Between image and meaning, it spoke for itself. Is it still the case?
Thomas Sabo launches its first fragrance “Eau de Karma“: too wise?
No fairytales, Royal Wedding Dresses only
Latest “Just married“? At Sweden's Prince Carl Philip and Sofia Hellqvit's wedding, obviously. An opportunity to jump at in order to look back at the royal brides dresses' history. Curiosity always wins.
Is fashion ART? YES, NOt entirely.
“Almost reaching another planet. Plus another soul“
One could easily think that fashion has no place neither beside Jeff Koons' Gazing Ball nor Andy Warhol's Campbell's Soup Cans. It is an opinion after all. I am for the other side, and firmly believe that fashion should be considered as a kind of art - perhaps not as much artistic as the Mona Lisa. What is fashion then, if not exactly ART? Thinking piece ahead.
Shinerock London talks extinction, evolution and alluring femininity
At the very least bold to associate these three concepts, all the more as they are destined for your neck. It is not a secret anymore (for a long time already!) that audacity is the key of success, particularly in the present fashion industry. This is the magic trick, on silk and cashmere, that the British label Shinerock London has to offer, besides dinosaurs' skeletons and sexy legs.
Dress your neck with kekkai androgynous scarves for summer 2015
Please, warmly welcome the first collection of the British luxury scarves brand kekkai. Androgynous, bold, and seductive, high quality is surely valued by the two sisters Yvonne-Demitra and Emily, who founded this art project in 2014. Between silk and cashmere, to choose is definitely difficult, the patterns' range being eclectic:
wild flowers reminiscing the designers' summer holidays in Ibiza, ancient South American and European treasures, even bizarre 3D women curves.
Not only dressing up both men and women's neck, kekkai plays with art. Architectural visualization technology is used as pattern-making technique, indeed.
Sounding pretty exotic, the name's brand is full of surprises. kekkai as a noun means a force field or a shield, but also a pocket universe, spiritual or otherwise. Should then those audacious scarves protect more than our delicate skin only, and inspire to both genders confidence and spunk. No doubt that the whole collection is synonym of elegance. However, the kekkai woman seems slightly nonchalant, all in all, her rebel spirit dreaming perhaps of rock'n'roll summery horizons.
What about the kekkai male face? It would be interesting to see how men would tame the brand's idiosyncrasy and audacity. One point for Curiosity.
C.
Picture: kekkai © 2015 Rights Reserved
More on C.’s Fashion Diary
A/W15 brings gentle boys X MODE SUISSE Edition 7
Next season, Swiss boys aim HIGH: the moon, the sun, the entire galaxy in sight. They are going to shine, not bright like a diamond please, even much better than that: reflection being their watchword, nonchalant attitude plus electrifying pieces suffice. Put your sunglasses on, girls!
Photo by © Martin Baumgartner
MODE SUISSE, Edition 7 / Swiss trends upward
Back to work after quite a long time of silence, now recalling MODE SUISSE Edition 7 last February in Zurich.
Photo by © Martin Baumgartner
MODE SUISSE is definitely full of surprises. Replacing intimacy, POWER seems to be the appropriate watchword for this edition. Plunge into it via the following selection of looks, in order to clearly imagine what it was all about.
Amplitude has definitely to be first mentioned, the body asking for more than only some space. Even in Sara Vidas' collection, however skirts get shorter and crop tops coyly emerge, materials do not smother the skin. Moreover, one is not allowed to accuse Claudia Bertini's mass of layering with making the whole heavy: the designer opted for soft colours and fluid lines with her eyes open. On the other hand, stf (Schweizerische Textilefachschule) assumes its dichotomy white/black, overdoing it by all in white looks putting forwards purity, surface and simplicity, while finding inspiration in The Renaissance on the other (obscure) side. Still in a dark mood, a different one though, huber egloff empowers the woman's silhouette, fleeing lots of sexist clichés by presenting past and future interlinked through marriages between both textures and clothing codes. Flirting with sportswear, La Cri does not neglect anything, but knows how to bring out the IN-Girl, sneakers on obviously.
Autumn/Winter 2015's promises? Reckless attitude. Empowered women. Swiss pavements be ready.
/C.
Photos by © Simon Habegger
huber egloff /look 7
stf /look 5
The selection goes on on C.’s Fashion Diary!