🦋 @m0thstardust - Tumblr Blog

Anton Raffael Mengs (Aussig, Bohemia 1728-1779 Rome)

Portrait of Mariana de Silva y Sarmiento, duquesa de Huescar (1740-1784), half-length, in a white dress and fur-lined wrap, holding a ring and a key, a draped curtain beyond -- unfinished

Christies

#painting #unfinished #unfinshed art #portraiture #fine art #art history

Blue Dancer - Gino Severini, 1912

#gino severini #futurism #blue dancers #guggenheim #painting

Vladimir Tatlin, Monument to the Third International (Tatlin’s Tower), 1920

From a manuscript by Nikolai Punin

#Tatlins tower #communist art #constructivism #communist architecture #communism

Wassily Kandinsky, St. George I, 1911

#Kandinsky #der blaue reiter #art history #expressionism #surrealism #abstraction #avant garde

Radclyffe Hall, ca. 1930

#Radclyffe Hall #lesbian pulp fiction #The well of loneliness #lesbianism #queer history

Edvard Munch, Madonna 1895–1902. Lithograph

#Edvard munch #Madonna #femme fatale #vamp #lithograph

Franz von Lenbach, Shepherd Boy, 1860

#franz von lenbach #shepherd boy #1800s #painting #german painting

Echoes & Agreements, Essay - Theophilus Marboah

#theophilius marboah #echoes & agreements #decolonialism #art history

Cyprien Tokoudagba, Dan Aydo Houédo, 2008. Courtesy of Galerie Degbomey

#the articles on him are weird and vaguely racist #and the gallery page goes to a spam site now #so no link posted this time

Yoruba Ade Oba (Kings Crown), British Museum

#Ade Oba #Yoruba #British Museum #objects acquired under colonialism

Archigram

#archigram #portfolio #architecture #avant garde #dystopian #illustration #design #dezeen

ymutate

Albert Gleizes - Composition pour la contemplation, 1942, huile sur toile, 181 x 131.5 cm

(christie's)

SKINCARE 101 MASTERPOST

TABLE OF CONTENTS Step 1: Identifying your skin type Step 2: Identifying skin conditions Step 3: Creating your skincare routine (steps are in order, but do the SPF in the AM and the Face Oil in the PM!) -Cleanser -Toner -Serum -Exfoliation (NOT every night, skip toner/serum when you do this) -Moisturiser -SPF -Face Oil Step 4: Customizing your skincare routine (AKA. How to read labels & advanced skincare geekery)

Step 1: Identifying your skin type

Oily skin - Prone to breakouts / blackheads. Makeup tends to breakup on your face by or before the late afternoon, and skin gets shiny.

Dry skin - prone to flaking, irritation. Skin often looks dull and matte.

combo skin - some areas of your face are oily, and some areas of your face are dry. Oftentimes, your oily areas are in your T-Zone: your forehead, nose, and sometimes chin. If you have this skin type, you need to identify which are your oily areas and which are your dry areas!

Step 2: Identifying skin conditions

a note: you can have any of these conditions with the above skin types! For example, acne with dry skin is uncommon, but not unheard of.

Acne - small bumps that are red on the skin, often turns into whiteheads. Can be cystic in nature (underneath the skin, large, painful) or otherwise. This happens when your naturally-produced sebum is not efficiently being cleansed out of your pores, when outside pollution and dirt gets trapped in your pores, or when your skin is irritated (if you have sensitive skin).

Sensitive skin - skin that is prone to redness & irritation. Some types of acne can pop up because your skin is irritated, not just because of trapped sebum or pollution.

wrinkles - not inherently bad y'all, but if you want to incorporate anti-aging into your routine, now is the time to figure that out!

Step 3: Creating your skincare routine

Now that you know your skin type, it's good to figure out what products work for you and what don't! This can be a lengthy and complicated process and tbh, is deeply individual to each person - trial and error is somewhat necessary. However, as someone with extremely sensitive combo skin, I can give you recommendations that have worked for me, and I do believe these would be a good starting point for most people!

NEVER start on more than one skincare product at a time, because if you have a reaction, you will not be able to identify which product or environmental factor is the problem. Give a minimum of a week before introducing another product in your routine.

If you're just starting out, I'd recommend picking a cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF from this list. After about two weeks, if there are no problems, I'd recommend adding a toner or a serum, depending on your skincare concerns.

please note that each step is in order!

cleansing

If you wear makeup, double cleansing is key. This means that you cleanse first with an oil-based cleanser and then with a water-based cleanser. If you have particularly oily skin, this may be effective for you too (despite popular belief) - but if you don't wear makeup start out with a water-based cleanser and you can add an oil-based cleanser later if you want to.

Oil based cleanser: (tbh for these they're all the same, here's a cheap one): Simple hydrating cleansing oil, $9-$13 https://tinyurl.com/r7fad8e

Water based cleanser: Simple Water Boost Micellar Facial Gel Wash, $7 (got mine for $2 on sale) https://tinyurl.com/yxx5vlx4

Both of these should be effective for all skin types. For cleansers with ACTIVE INGREDIENTS, see serums.

toner

Imo, I don't use a toner and I don't think they're necessary, but depending on your skin type they may be helpful! Not all toners are clarifying / stripping these days, and even if you have oily skin, I'd avoid toners with witch hazel or alcohols (fatty alcohols like cetyl /cetearyl alcohol is okay, they're not stripping) - they're a bit outdated and stripping all your oils can actually make your skin produce even more sebum.

Some toners claim to rebalance your pH so that other products are more effective, however this is an outdated claim as most cleansers are pH-balanced these days. If you're on a budget it is totally acceptable to skip this step.

serum

A serum is a concentrated active designed to target specific skin concerns. The Ordinary is one of my favorite brands to start out - they are transparent about their active concentrations, the pH of their products, and they don't include unnecessary fragrance, coloring, or essential oils. Start with ONE active, and don't use more than 2 actives in a skincare routine unless you know what you are doing.

Always apply your serum to a damp face - don't towel dry your face after washing, it introduces unnecessary bacteria and can cause breakouts. Every product on this list is for ALL skin types, but focus on targeted skin concerns. I like pairing a moisturising serum with an active because it allows the active to penetrate deeper.

The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc (this one is my FAVOURITE serum) https://tinyurl.com/v8tvfeu

Niacinamide is excellent for acne-prone skin & sensitive skin. It can reduce scarring over time, as well as hyperpigmentation from sun damage. Zinc has less research attached to it, but some posit it can rebalance the oily parts of your skin without drying out the drier parts.

The Ordinary "Buffet" Peptide Serum https://tinyurl.com/wr8vxsx

Peptides are found in the skin, and some research indicates that they are one of the most effective anti-aging, moisturising ingredients around. This peptide serum is cheaper than any other peptide serum you can get these days, and I found it to plump up my skin and hide wrinkles and fine lines overnight.

The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 https://tinyurl.com/tqn9usd

Hyaluronic acid is not an exfoliating acid - it is a moisturising acid. (see below for more about exfoliation.) This serum is a great introduction to Hyaluronic acid to see if your skin can tolerate it. (It's rare, but some people do have sensitivities to this ingredient.) Use this or a peptide serum for added moisture to the skin. The bonus is that this one is cheaper.

If you're already familiar with Hyaluronic acid and your skin loves it, try this: multi-molecular hyaluronic acid from NIOD, a sister company of the Ordinary, which is a bit more expensive: https://tinyurl.com/qtyccjr

"Multi-molecular" means that the HA is various sizes. The smallest molecules penetrate the skin the deepest (and have the most potential for irritation, but the most potential for anti-aging and moisture), and the larger molecules focus on surface level moisture.

Retinol/Retinoids: The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid Emulsion 2% https://tinyurl.com/sbdwskq

This is the recommended form of non-prescription Retinol that I'd start out with. (prescription Retinol is always better, but obviously cost-prohibitive for many). However, due to COVID-19, its out of stock for the forseeable future so if its urgent I'd go with the one below.

Retinol causes dryness, flaking, and irritation when you first start using it, so you have to start using it 2x a week and gradually increase to every other day or ideally every day. However, it is a miracle worker (and the most science-backed option) for acne, wrinkles, dark spots, and scarring. It promotes faster skin cell turnover and it's the BEST preventative measure for aging. I use this formula around my eyes for my dark circles and hyperpigmentation and it's the best.

The Ordinary Retinol .2% in Squalane https://tinyurl.com/t5r9rsy

This one, because its pure Retinol, may cause more irritation at first in comparison to the retinoid. Start with the lowest dose and GRADUALLY move to a higher dose as you get used to the retinol. THIS ONE IS NOT EYE SAFE so if you're looking to use it for the eye area, wait until the first one is back in stock.

exfoliation

For ALL skin types, I recommend exfoliating the skin. However, the amount of exfoliation is going to be greatly dependent on your tolerance level. AVOID apricot scrubs, they are far too granular and sharp and can cause micro abrasions in the skin. It's best to avoid physical scrubs altogether unless they are very finely milled such as a rice powder scrub.

Acids / chemical exfoliators are (believe it or not!) the most gentle way to exfoliate. HOWEVER, start with the lowest possible concentration and only do it once a week at first. Mix 2-3 DROPS of it with your moisturizer. If your skin seems to tolerate it well, SLOWLY increase the number of times a week you use it. NEVER use an acid more than 3-4 times a week, and for many people, that may be way too much. If you get waxy, dry, irritated, or flaky skin, DISCONTINUE USE and let me know and I can give you a paired down "recovery" regimen.

The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% https://tinyurl.com/s6rj3fs

An Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA), Lactic acid is best for sensitive and/or dry skin. This is a great starter acid! This acid helps with fine lines and surface texture tremendously.

The Ordinary Glycolic Acid Toner 7% https://tinyurl.com/rcc9fpq

Glycolic acid is more effective, but more likely to irritate your skin. Glycolic acid is slightly more effective for anti-aging.

Salicylic acid IS a chemical exfoliator, but it is a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) which means it works differently from the other exfoliators on this list. It is safe to use Salicylic acid every day if you have extremely oily skin, however my sensitive skin cannot tolerate this so I use it a maximum of two times a week. You don't need to have salicyclic acid in a serum - if you use a salicylic acid face wash, it will be gentler on the skin.

CeraVe Salicylic Acid Face Wash: https://tinyurl.com/y2h75tlx

You can use Salicylic acids with other types of acids (AHAs, alpha-hydroxy acids), but you should NEVER mix two AHAs together without professional guidance or a professional formulation.

moisturiser

If you're just starting out, I recommend keeping your actives in a toner / serum form and keeping your cleanser and moisturiser as bland as possible. This way you don't accidentally double up on actives which could harm your skin in high concentrations, and also you don't have to spend WAY too much $$$ on fancy skin creams that may not even do anything!

simple light moisturiser https://tinyurl.com/s7b9ouh

Simple rich moisturiser https://tinyurl.com/sp9n4ar

(I use the light in the morning, rich in the evening. Use the light only if you have very oily skin, and the rich if you have dry skin)

CeraVe PM (good for combo skin, oily skin) https://tinyurl.com/wupcjrd

CeraVe in the tub: (good for dry skin) https://tinyurl.com/y67farnp

SPF

Only for use in the daytime, this is a VITAL step - especially if you're using actives like Acids or Retinol, but even if you aren't. Sun damage is the primary cause of wrinkles, dark spots, etc in your skin and will save your ass in the long run. SPF 50 is a must, and yes even if you're indoors it may be worth wearing! UVA-B rays can penetrate windows and damage your skin.

I personally only fuck with Korean sun block because their technology is leagues ahead of American sun blocks. There are two different kinds of sun block, chemical and physical. I won't go into this too much here because this is already too long, and I'm new to Korean sunscreen myself. Look at reviews for CosRX, Nature Republic and check out www.yesstyle.com for ideas!

Face oil

Absolutely not necessary, but I like using this in the nighttime at the end of my routine, when I'd normally use SPF! I find it locks in the moisture in my face and prevents transepidermal water loss, or your skin dehydrating itself in the middle of the night.

I use Rosehip facial oil, but you can use Jojoba, Squalane, Marula or many others. Don't worry about the fancy face oils, just go to your local organic food stores and get the pure stuff!

step 4: Customising your skincare routine

Now that you've got the basics down, it might be worth diving deeper into the ingredients you are using. The products I mentioned above are all known for using minimal ingredients to create the most effective results, but you may have noticed that some may not have worked for you. Maybe you have a sensitivity to the preservative used, or an active ingredient just isn't right for you. The only way to figure this out is through trial and error and research.

Some of my favorite brands include Simple, CeraVe, CosRX, The Ordinary, & Cetaphil because they don't have essential oils in their products (which can be sensitizing) and they are relatively easy to decode as there are less ingredients. BUT, not all products are made alike and just because these are trusted brands for me doesn't mean all their products are going to be effective, so understanding how to decode ingredient lists is vital.

INGREDIENT LOOKUP: https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary https://incidecoder.com/ http://www.cosdna.com/

CROSS-REFERENCING: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ some of these websites are owned by skincare brands, so it's always best to cross-reference if you're able to get a variety of opinions out there!

THE 1% LINE Phenoxyethanol is a common preservative used in skincare products. While skincare brands do not need to disclose the percentage of an ingredient on their packaging, their ingredients are always listed in highest concentration --> least.

Phenoxyethanol is regulated in both the EU and the US to be in no greater concentration than 1%, so if an ingredient is after phenoxyethanol, that means that it is likely at a concentration of 1% or less. With powerful products such as Retinol this isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it could mean the company is advertising its product as effective when its actually shortchanging you.

SENSITIVE SKIN INGREDIENTS TO AVOID This is just out of personal experience - some of these ingredients may be just fine for you, and the concentration is also a big factor into whether your skin can tolerate it. But this is a good place to start in terms of ingredients to avoid!

Alcohol (Denat. Alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, methanol) Fragrances such as: -Limonene (linalool, linalyl acetate) -Citronellol -Eugenol -Cinnamal -Menthol -Geraniol Anything labeled parfum/perfume Any essential oils (yes, even lavender - it can be sensitizing!) Sulfates / Sulfites (foaming face cleansers are a no-no) Be wary of anything labeled paraben-free, because the science behind parabens being harmful is shoddy at best and many of the preservatives used in their place can be sensitising. But you're not going to be able to avoid paraben-free products entirely tbh.