I've said it before and I'll say it again
while diverging from history IS a valid artistic choice for costumers to make in period dramas (as is any choice, really; nobody else beyond the production team can MAKE them not do anything), if the only or primary divergence is to bring the characters in line with modern beauty and fashion standards- even if it's modern runway fashion and not modern street fashion! -that is an equally valid axis for criticism
because like. what, the extent of your creativity is neutering any elements that might challenge modern audiences' notions of beauty and fashion? why? why do you feel the need to make everything ultra-safe for them, and tangentially ultra-marketable for companies that benefit from the promotion of the current beauty standards and fashion ideals?
some movies I like that play fast and loose with history while NOT doing this include
had loads of fun with monochromatics, exaggerated makeup, laser-cut trims, and Rachel Weisz in full menswear of the era. kept the silhouettes, hairstyles, and very non-Modern Sexy elements like men in wigs and ruffly fontange caps intact.
Jingle Jangle, A Christmas Journey (2020):
Used various types of traditional African printed cloth, and inspiration from both traditional and modern popular Black hairstyles, while keeping silhouettes, outfit components, and general hair volume concentration true to mainstream European fashion of the 1860s, and later the 1890s after the timeskip
"Marzi, they copied museum costumes!" YES BUT. the exaggerated prevalence of pastels, the ramen-noodle curls, and the preponderance of short sleeves for women's daywear (which may have been a thing, but was not nearly as universal as the movie makes it seem AFAIK), and men's collars that get into Fashion Plate But Not Real Life territory push it into "artistic liberties" land for me personally. and look! bonnets! imagine not being allergic to bonnets! WONDERS!
Kate Hawley costumes are a bit of a cop-out, I know, because even with a two-movie period drama track record, she's shown a lovely tendency to just inherently respect history. But this movie plays faster and looser than Crimson Peak did, with a back-lacing 1850s day bodice that also has sheer sleeves, technicolor veils, improbable uses of silk tulle (although they did love their silk tulle back then!), and more. the skirt shapes, hair volume concentration, general outfit compositions, and HATS WHEN HATS SHOULD BE WORN are all on-point, though
a lot of times, in my experience, the audience WILL rise to meet historically grounded costumes! sometimes they even find styles they like and would otherwise have been unaware of! if trends were being allowed to occur organically, it could be a great way to spark some interesting revival movements, clothing-wise, and create fascinating new fusions of modern and historical fashion!
...but of course that doesn't send people to Shein and Sephora (and laterally plastic surgeons), so. we can't be having with that. back to the land of safe iPhone Makeup/Hair/Brows, no hats ever, and party dresses you could find on fast fashion websites I guess
