I’m working to put together a useable pattern–part of my issue is that i’m rebuilding the design for someone with hips and boobs and narrower shoulders. The more I research this, the more i’m convinced there’s no flare in the body, since it took inspiration from kimonos and banyans.
I’m also throwing out about 70% of what I know about clothes construction because this thing is velvet, and sane rules don’t apply to velvet.
I too, thought there may be an inverted box pleat in the back of the self fabric. Now, though, I’m on the fence because:
-I’ve never come across a pleat that sits on a vertical seam. I will fully admit, however, that I am a hobbyist. If you can pleat on a vertical seam, it may be out of my skill range.
-a box pleat/inverted box pleat would need a horizontal seam to anchor it and I can’t find any horizontal seam in the self fabric lower than the collar. If there is a pleat, it’s would be between the shoulder blades. The fabric from the collar to the shoulder blades is flat in the screen shots I can find.
-a pleat would require extra ironing, which is death for velvet.
(If someone knows better, please feel free to shout out!)
This part appears all one panel, with the box pleat anchored to the top seam. I don’t see a seam down the middle from this angle, though the collar was doing something funky that got my attention.
So I’m doing some wild mass guessing on the collar, and am narrowing it down. Right now, I think it’s a 7″ strip folded over into a 3″ band (3.5″ with seam allowance). A bit like a kimono collar, but in two separate pieces attached at the back to drape down. It’s probably two pieces to to keep the nap of the velvet all running in the right direction. I’m also assuming it’s got sewn-in interfacing to help it keep structure.
(Blurry as hell–whyyyy–but the best evidence I have of a seam in the back collar)
And here’s the clearest screenshots I have of the red piping:
The collar seems to go down to about hip-level, even with the sleeves. I’m assuming it’s attached with with a pretty straight-forward stitch-the-ditch technique once the front, back, and sleeves have been constructed.
I think you’re right about the sleeves–they seem like straight up kimono sleeves, cut in the men’s fashion with the backs sewn up as well as the front and bottom. That honestly makes them one of the easiest parts of this thing, since there’s patterns out there to utilize.
I’m not the best patterner but i’m trying to get something semi-accurate on paper to help make them.
baratheonpilled
annaxmalina
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