La Mode illustrée, no. 17, 26 avril 1862, Paris. Fourches ondulatrices de M. Croisat, rue de Richelieu, 70. Meches à soudures. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney
Fourches ondulatrices de M. Croisat, rue de Richelieu, 70.
La mode proscrivant décidément les cheveux plats et lisses, on voit aujourd'hui toutes les chevelures ondulées quel que soit le genre de coiffure que l'on adopte. Ces ondulations pont pour premier et incontestable avantage celui d'être patronnées par la mode; de plus elles gonflent les cheveux, en augmentent le volume, par conséquent, et facilitent l'exécution des coiffures actuelles.
Jusqu'ici on ondulait les cheveux, soit au moyen d'un cordon, soit en les passant au fer chaud, soit en tirant l'une des branches de la petite natte de cheveux; tous ces procédés entraînaient des conséquences fâcheuses pour la chevelure: le cordon l'usait, le fer la brûlait, et, dans tous les cas, les cheveux nattés étaient facilement cassés et arrachés. M. Croisat vient d'inventer les fourches ondulatrices et les femmes lui devront beaucoup de reconnaissance pour ce procédé fort simple, que nous allons expliquer. Grâce à cette invention, il n'y aura plus de cheveux brûlés, cassés, arrachés, et le ondulations seront parfaitement régulières. Ces fourches sont en buffle ou bien en écaille, et coûtent de 3 à 5 fr. la paire.
On peigne les cheveux le soir, avant de se mettre au lit; on sépare l'une des mèches que l'on veut onduler; on prend avec la main gauche l'une des fourches, en la tenant par le haut, et l'on y passe la mèche, en allant d'une dent à l'autre dent (voir le dessin no. 1); on presse ensuite cette mèche de cheveux vers le haut de la fourche, et on l'assujettit au moyen du cordon passé dans le bord supérieur de cette fourche (voir le dessin no. 2). On passe la nuit avec ces fourches, qui sont courbées de façon à accompagner la forme de la tête; si les cheveux frisent difficilement, il faudra les mouiller avant l'opération. Il faut deux paires de fourches pour chaque côté, si l'on porte des bandeaux très-larges; si l'on répète l'opération trois ou quatre foirs de suite, les cheveux s'accoutumeront aux ondulations, et l'on n'aura plus recours aux fourches qu'une fois par semaine.
On doit veiller à ce que les ondulations commencent dans le même sens et à la même hauteur; le matin, il suffit de dénouer le cordon, et l'on retire la fourche sans endommager les cheveux.
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Mr. Croisat’s Waving Forks — 70 Rue de Richelieu.
Since current fashion has decisively banished flat, sleek hair, one sees today that every head of hair is waved, regardless of the specific hairstyle adopted. These waves possess, as their primary and indisputable advantage, the fact that they are endorsed by fashion; furthermore, they lift the hair—thereby increasing its volume—and facilitate the creation of contemporary hairstyles.
Until now, hair was waved either by means of a cord, by passing it through hot curling irons, or by pulling on one of the strands of a small braid; all these methods entailed unfortunate consequences for the hair: the cord caused wear and tear, the irons scorched it, and, in every instance, braided hair was prone to breaking or being pulled out. Mr. Croisat has just invented the "waving forks," and women will owe him a great debt of gratitude for this remarkably simple method, which we shall now explain. Thanks to this invention, there will be no more burnt, broken, or pulled-out hair, and the waves will be perfectly uniform. These forks are made of buffalo horn or tortoiseshell and cost between 3 and 5 francs per pair.
One combs one's hair in the evening, before going to bed; one separates a strand of hair intended for waving; holding one of the forks by its top edge in the left hand, one weaves the strand through it, alternating from one prong to the next (see Drawing No. 1); one then pushes this strand of hair upward toward the top of the fork and secures it using the cord threaded through the fork's upper rim (see Drawing No. 2). One sleeps with these forks in place, as they are curved to follow the natural contours of the head. If the hair does not curl easily, it must be dampened before the process begins. Two pairs of hairpins are required for each side if one is wearing very wide headbands; if the procedure is repeated three or four times in succession, the hair will become accustomed to the waves, and it will then be necessary to use the pins only once a week.
Care must be taken to ensure that the waves begin in the same direction and at the same level; in the morning, one simply needs to untie the cord to remove the hairpin without damaging the hair.
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Meches à soudures.
On nous a souvent demandé de plus amples détails sur ces mèches, dont l'emploi a été indiqué dans la plupart des coiffures de M. Croisat; il a fallu appeler le dessin et la gravure à notre aide pour satisfaire le vœu de nos lectrices, et nous espérons qu'elles comprendront facilement désormais l'usage des mèches à soudure. Ces mèches ont l'avantage d'augmenter le volume des cheveux, sans exercer sur la tête la pression des peignes et des épingles; il est impossible de discerner leur adjonction, parfaitement dissimulée par ce procédé ingénieux, dont l'invention appartient à M. Croisat.
Le dessin no. 4 reproduit la mèche à soudure (grandeur réduite); sa longueur est de 80 centimètres; sa monture, fort solide, quoique fort légère, est retenue par des cheveux qui la cachent. On emploie cette mèche en peignant d'abord les cheveux naturels et les ramenant par devant; on les prend entre le pouce et l'index de la main droite, on saisit le mèche à soudure par le milieu (après l'avoir égalisée au moyen de peigne) avec la main droit (voir le dessin no. 5), et on la place sous les cheveux naturels. Il ne reste plus qu'à natter les trois branches (dont deux sont formées par le mèche à soudure), ainsi que l'indique le dessin no. 6. Si la mèche formée par les cheveux naturels était beaucoup plus mince que les deux autres mèches, on emprunterait à celles-ci, au deuxième tour, les cheveux nécessaires pour égaliser la natte.
Si l'on veut, au lieu d'une tresse à bandeau plat, faire une tresse à bandeau relevé (voir le dessin no. 7), on peigne en arrière les cheveux naturels, sous lesquels on pose un crêpé, si l'on a adopté les coiffures relevées; on commence la natte à la hauteur de la tempe, en procédant comme cela a été expliqué ci-dessus. Le prix de ces mèches à sodure varie selon la longueur et l'épaisseur des cheveux; ajoutons que cette dépense n'est point trop forte, et que ces deux mèches réunies peuvent, si la mode vient à changer, former une belle natte de chignon.
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Spliced hairpieces.
We have frequently been asked for further details regarding these hairpieces—the use of which has been indicated in most of Mr. Croisat’s hairstyles. We found it necessary to enlist the aid of drawing and engraving to fulfill the wishes of our readers, and we trust that they will now easily grasp the application of these spliced hairpieces. These pieces offer the advantage of increasing hair volume without subjecting the head to the pressure typically exerted by combs and pins; indeed, their addition is utterly undetectable, being perfectly concealed by this ingenious method—an invention credited to Mr. Croisat.
Drawing No. 4 illustrates the joining strand (shown at a reduced scale); it measures 80 centimeters in length. Its mounting—which is remarkably sturdy yet extremely lightweight—is secured by the natural hair, which effectively conceals it. To utilize this strand, one begins by combing the natural hair and sweeping it forward; holding this hair between the thumb and index finger of the right hand, one then grasps the joining strand by its midpoint (having first aligned it with a comb) using the right hand (see Drawing No. 5) and positions it beneath the natural hair. All that remains is to braid the three sections together—two of which are formed by the joining strand itself—as depicted in Drawing No. 6. Should the section formed by the natural hair prove significantly thinner than the other two sections, one may, during the second pass of the braid, borrow the necessary amount of hair from the other sections to ensure the braid remains uniform in thickness.
If, rather than creating a flat headband braid, one wishes to fashion a raised headband braid (see Drawing No. 7), one must comb the natural hair backward—placing a pad of teased hair beneath it if an updo style has been chosen. The braiding is then commenced at temple level, following the procedure outlined above. The cost of these joining strands varies depending on the length and thickness of the hair; it is worth noting, however, that the expense is by no means excessive, and that these two strands, when combined, can—should fashion trends change—be repurposed to create a beautiful chignon braid.
the problem with addiction is not that it's pleasurable. it's not "having too much fun" disease. it's not even a requirement for addiction that you have fun at any point in the process at all and to be honest it is incredibly common that no pleasure is gained from substance use. imagining that addiction is about pleasure does two things: 1) demonises feeling good (there is nothing wrong with wanting to be happy/comfortable/etc), and 2) frames addicts as people who Like Having Fun Too Much. it's simply not useful to frame things this way as well as just fundamentally not being true
Something that I have noticed is I know almost nobody my age that goes to a food pantry. I know people who regularly run out of money for food and in general have to eat an unsuitable diet because that’s what they can afford and they still don’t go to a food bank, im not sure if it’s because they’re embarrassed or maybe if you didn’t grow up going you don’t know much about it but if you’re financially struggling I really recommend it. And look into other options for food assistance too like community fridges and gardens and other programs that can assist you, where I live Salvation Army pays for an allotted amount of grocery delivery for low income people every month, in the summer farmers take excess produce to the library to be taken by anyone who needs it, etc. There are a LOT of resources for free food that you can look into especially if you are literally not eating because of your financial situation
i’m gonna say something that doesn’t feel good but you might need to hear it: bending over backwards being a people-pleaser, being conflict averse and not telling anyone your needs, and then being resentful and upset when your needs aren’t met is a You problem first
not related but also just good advice: when you’re lowkey frustrated with someone and can’t quite figure out why their behavior is bothering you, i highly recommend examining if they have broken an imaginary rule or standard that you hold yourself to
I'll always talk up internet radio stations because I don't think the average person is aware that they're free, can run in your browser (or in any program that can connect to them), work on your phone, run better than a youtube tab, and give you a much better selection of music than you could get from a general algorithmic playlist
(also lots of them have live shows which you can tune into for free)
if u like folk and/or roots music: wumb.org !!! it is AD-FREE it has ZERO MORNING TALK SHOWS it is on air at 91.9 FM in the BOSTON AREA but streams WORLDWIDE on the WEB it is perfect.
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