Tales of Tibet through India
It was a cold morning in Dharamshala, a mountain town in Northern India. I was on my way to visit the clinic of the Dalai Lama’s herbal medicine doctor, who I heard could allegedly diagnose cancer by means of a urine sample. Naturally I was intrigued. The clinic was squirreled away in an alleyway off the main road, so I stopped a random guy and asked him for directions to the clinic. Since the town is so small, he knew exactly where I wanted to go and pointed me in the right direction. Upon arriving at the clinic I encountered a sign posted on the wall, stating that the doctor was on vacation and that the clinic would be closed for some time. Bummer.
So I headed back the way I came, and again bumped into the local guy who’d given me directions, so we sat down together to have a chai and I listened to his story.
He’s a Tibetan refugee named Thenrub who works as an artist, practicing the ancient art of “Thangka” painting in Dharamshala where he has lived his whole life. Dharamshala is home to a large and increasing Tibetan refugee population. These Tibetans refugees have fled to India, as well as various other countries, to escape the Chinese government’s communist and inhumane rule over Tibet.
I’ll give you some short background on Tibet, since its history and oppression may not be so commonly known throughout the world:
Tibet was it’s own independent country up until 1950, when the Chinese invaded and occupied the land. Tibet has been under China’s communist rule ever since, and Tibet is one of the most repressed and closed societies in the world.
Tibetan culture, language and religion is slowly being systematically wiped out. To give you an idea, China has closed 99% of Tibet’s monasteries, jailed thousands of monks, and banned images of the Dalai Lama.
The Chinese government are using torture and violence to maintain control over the Tibetan population. Tibetans who try to escape run the risk of being caught, tortured and killed. Under the Chinese rule there are many “offenses” that can result in torture for Tibetans, some of which include,
flying a Tibetan flag, sending an email abroad, and simply saying the phrase ‘human rights,’ just to name a few.
More than one million Tibetans have died as a result of the Chinese occupation.
(https://www.freetibet.org/about)
Thenrub managed to escape to Dharamshala, when he was just a baby with his grandfather. The rest of his family are in Tibet; he tells me it’s impossible for them to come and that he hasn’t had any contact with them his entire life. His story is one I found common amongst countless other Tibetans in Dharamshala.
I ran into Thenrub again, in the street, a few days later on the first day of the Tibetan new year, 'Losar.’ He was on his way to the temple of the Dalai Lama, alone. He insisted that I come along, explaining to me that in Tibet, there are typically 15 days of holiday observed for Losar, but in India, they only celebrate three. The first day is meant to be spent with the family he explains, but since he has no family here, he’s alone. I gladly join him.
I was expecting some sort of a ceremony at the temple. But instead I observed people worshipping in a self-motivated fashion. In the temple many were making prostrations (bowing), paying their respects to Buddha, adorning a few statues with silk scarves, offering donations, taking photos of the ornate temple and the gigantic butter statues, spinning the numerous “om mani padme hum” prayer wheels, circling the complex and then moving along. I liked the efficiency of it all.
The next day, I joined Thenrub again along with an Indian friend of his, Shradha, and we went to the “house” of his friend. I use the term “house” loosely here because, it was a small room with an itty-bitty kitchen attached. The size of the space was barely bigger than my tiny childhood bedroom, and it was being shared by four, maybe five people. This room was essentially in the basement of a monastery. Many other Tibetan monks and refugee families were living in their own rooms in the monastery complex. Thenrub’s friend was out when we arrived, but his wife was there to greet us. She spoke no English but wore a big smile.
A sizable carcass of a baby lamb was splayed out on a tray on the floor of the their bedroom that also doubled as the living room, along with three big bowls of nuts, dried fruits, and sweets. We were promptly served Tibetan butter tea -which was definitely not as good as it sounds since it’s salty and not sweet - and piping hot bowls of Thukpa, a typical Tibetan soup with noodles and vegetables. I passed on the animal flesh but dug into everything else. Two little boys, no older than four, were passed out on two thin mattresses that served as both the seating area and the family beds.
The wife kept bringing out fresh tea, and refilling our soup bowls. The Tibetan news channel was playing in the background. Two smiley but stiff newscasters came on the screen dressed in traditional silk garb to deliver the news. Thenrub explained to us that the only news they get from this Tibetan channel is 'good news' but not 'real news' because it’s run by the Chinese government and they don’t show the reality of the massive amount of Tibetans being monitored, controlled, abused, tortured and killed by the Chinese government each day. The real news that they seldom receive comes from Tibetans who risk their lives, sending messages abroad, since all forms of communication with any place outside of Tibet is illegal, it’s a huge risk. Like I said before, Thenrub hasn’t had any contact with any of his family his entire life.
But there was no spite or anger in Thenrub’s voice as he talked about the Chinese government’s total control over Tibet. He spoke “matter-of-fact-ly,” with just a tinge of sadness. I noticed that many of the Tibetans I met talked about the Chinese government and the atrocities that they’re committing against the Tibetan people without bitterness, but with compassion, truly reflecting their Buddhist morals, values and outlook.
On the third day of Losar, I went to one of the only cafes open; the place was packed. There was an open seat at a table where an exceptionally cool looking Tibetan man was seated. He wore his kinky, caramel colored hair in a mohawk, and looked at me with eyes so full I could’ve drowned. A smile spread over his face when he saw me and he introduced himself as Pema. We began to talk and it became clear that his English wasn’t so great. But I understood enough.
His story was similar to Thenrub’s, he’d come to Dharamshala as a child without his family. I told him that I was from the US and his eyes lit up.
“What part?” he asked. “New York” I told him (the half truth I occasionally tell people when traveling). He asked if I minded if he lit a cigarette. I did, but I told him to go ahead and enjoy, I’d just move at the next table. When I was getting up to switch my seat I noticed the words “US Immigration Application” printed on a stack of papers sitting next to him. I finished my chocolate peanut butter bar from the adjacent table while he finished his cigarette, then I returned to my seat at his table and asked him if I could help him in any way with his application. The stack of papers looked daunting.
He looked at me eagerly, replied, “Yes, please,“ and pushed the papers towards me. I started to scan them - It looked as though he had already made it past one round one of the application successfully and paid the 400 dollar fee (26,730 rupees more or less). He had a booklet from his place of desired future employment, an oil and gas company in Vermont.
“I heard Vermont’s beautiful, and the climate’s similar to Tibet’s” I said with a smile. He smiled back; I could tell he didn’t know much about Vermont, but his eyes shone with eagerness.
He told he’d met an American who put him in contact with this company. I asked if he had experience with oil and gas. He said no. So then I asked, "what do you do for work now?”
“I work in a cafe” he replied, then went on to explain that he has no education, and didn’t go to school in Tibet or India.
"But I am very determined. I am very hard worker. I want to be able to make money to send it back to my family. They’re very, very poor.”
He told me this without breaking my gaze, truth and sincerity overflowing from his big brown eyes. Feeling his genuineness & purity, I almost started to tear up.
I imagined him in the US, with his broken English, in today’s political climate, knowing how cruel people can be, and I couldn’t help but want to protect him from any possible negativity he could encounter.
I smiled back and told him, “I’m sure you’ll be accepted. Stay, positive, meditate, and practice your English.” I let him know I was there for him if he needed any help or guidance in this process and I truly meant it.
For a moment I looked out of Pema’s optimistic eyes, and saw the US from the immigrant’s perspective, the land of opportunity where anything is possible, the golden beacon of light that provides hope and a ticket out of poverty, pain and suffering. And for a moment I was reminded of the privilege I’m afforded by simply being a natural born US citizen, that I so often take for granted.
Reflecting back now, I remember riding my bike through Manhattan many mornings on my way to college and seeing throngs of protestors outside of the United Nations headquarters fervently chanting “Free Tibet!” alongside graphic images of self-immolators. It raised some questions for me, like, what is the actually going on in Tibet? But I guess I felt too “far away” from the issue because I never actually made an effort to become properly informed about it.
Being in Dharamshala, however, a town so Tibetan, it makes me forget I’m in India most of the time, it was impossible for me to not feel “close” and connected to Tibet.
I’ve been so moved by the stories of the Tibetan people I’ve encountered, as well as their smiles, laughter and optimism in spite of everything that they’ve been through. I decided to write this post to share some of my experiences and shine a bit of light on what’s going on in and outside of Tibet.
I wish I could offer a solution and fix all the problems of the world, but I constantly remind myself of the words of the Dalai Lama (who I had the opportunity of seeing and hearing in person during his three day teachings here in Dharamshala):
“If you want to change the world, first try to improve and bring about change within yourself. That will help change your family. From there it just gets bigger and bigger. Everything we do has some effect, some impact.”
This inspires me to continue my work, cultivating peace within myself so I can then share it with others. I recently came out of a ten day introduction course in Tibetan Buddhism which helped me to understand better the basis of the Tibetan people’s compassionate, forgiving and peaceful nature. I think we could all learn something from Buddhism.
I have one thing to ask of you, the reader: If after reading this you could just ask someone around you if they know about what’s going on in Tibet - and if they don’t, open up a conversation. I’m not asking you to DO anything really, but just talking about what’s going on and spreading awareness really is so important, especially in this case where the Chinese government is trying to keep their oppressive, violent and deadly actions concealed.
It doesn’t cost anything to care. But there are plenty of opportunities to donate if you feel called to, as well as places around the world to volunteer Check out, the website freetibet.org for more information and resources.
Thenrub and his friend’s wife
Giant butter sculpture inside the Dalai lama temple
“Om Mani Padme Hum” prayer wheels
