THE ESPRESSO VEIN

TEV by Brian C. Thayer : espresso reviews and other useful links

[theespressovein]

Intelligentsia Coffee: Black Cat Classic Espresso

A coffee’s description is a commitment. This was Intelligentsia’s promise to me:

“This syrupy and sweet espresso blend has been the staple of our lineup since the very beginning. It is a product of intensive lot selection and close, direct work with the farmers who produce its components. Supreme balance and a wonderful sweetness make this a classic.”

18g dose : 35g yield : 28 seconds

I’m not one to be overly critical. Years of experience with espresso and its preparation and a growing knowledge of the roasting process give me ample humility when assessing the flavor quality of a coffee. While enjoyable, this espresso just simply does not produce a flavor that matches its description. 

I think the main problem for me is that the coffee I was expecting was not the coffee I experienced. I followed their preparation standards almost exactly. The espresso equipment is solid, the grind high quality. The product was good- above average even. The promised balance of sweetness and a more rounded syrupy espresso with “Dark Chocolate/Dark Sugars/Stone Fruit” flavors is the entire reason why I purchased this coffee. However, instead of getting a nice winter warmer, I got a jazzy early summer tease. 

Aroma: 10/10, baked walnuts, chocolate chip cookies Body: 10/10, steamed whole milk, grape juice Flavor: 8/10, citrus fruits- especially lime, earl grey tea Acidity: 8/10, sharp and tangy, like a fresh squeezed orange Sweetness: 7/10, sweet, but only in that the coffee was fresh and of high quality Finish: 8/10, pleasant, but not long lasting or notable

Total Score: 91/100

[theespressovein]

Verve Coffee Roasters: The Sermon Espresso

It has been a little while since tasting an espresso I have felt compelled to write about. In almost every way, this espresso was satisfying. Yes, that’s the word that best describes my experience: satisfying.  The bean details from Verve’s website are vague at best, so purchasing this coffee felt a bit like walking into a hotel room. There was hefty portion of expectation based on Verve’s good reputation, but still a hint of the unknown. I was expecting to find a clean bed, a lamp, cable TV, and a shower. I got it. 

18.4g dose : 38g yield : 32 seconds

I tried this coffee according to Verve’s own recommendations first. And second. And third. Finally, I gave up and went in a more standard direction. Here is what they suggested:

IN: 20 GRAMS // OUT: 24-27 GRAMS // @: 24-27 SECONDS

While their recipe certainly ramped up the acidity (berry tones in this case) and emboldened the body, the overall effect on flavor was a reduced clarity and enjoyment value. I lessened the dosage and increased the yield in a slightly higher period of time. My results were (as previously mentioned) satisfying. Raspberry instead of blueberry aroma. Blackberry and raspberry in the immediate flavor with distinct baked apples with cinnamon sensation just after swallowing. The aftertaste lingered on in dark chocolate for nearly two minutes after each sip. I did lose that satisfying heft in the body by lengthening the shot with a reduced dose, but my experience with the flavor increased more than proportionately.  Personally, I enjoyed the 5oz cappuccino more than the espresso this time- not a typical experience for me. While not my most breathtaking experience, this espresso is consistent and affordable; well worth it.

Aroma: 8/10, charred oak, cola, mixed berry Body: 6/10, lighter, 2% milk-like despite full-city roast Flavor: 8/10, berries, baked cinnamon apples, cocoa Acidity: 10/10, bright, clean, deciduous fruits and berries Sweetness: 8/10, akin to a 90% cocoa chocolate bar and fruit juice Finish: 9/10, chocolate-heavy. 

Total Score: 89/100

[theespressovein]

Tinker Coffee Co: Conduit Blend

“Tinker’s first foray into espresso blending was a success! Bright and tight, citrus, edgy, aggressive, and unapologetic about it. The roaster’s notes on the coffee said as much, so the coffee performed as promised.”

This is an excerpt from my last review of Tinker’s Conduit Blend. Their second version of this flagship espresso is even more successful- building on the strengths of their previous blend and addressing some of its former weaknesses.

While no espresso blend is ever identical due to the complexities of seasonal ingredients, roasting parameters, and ever-changing flavor of aging roasted coffee, consistency and balance are the great ideals of a solid espresso experience. This blend provided that for me.

19.6g dose : 43g yield : 31 seconds

Upon first opening the bag, I was punched in the face with a vegetal scent. A strong grassy/carrot smell wafted from within. Now, while not going so far as to say my hopes were lost, my confidence in the following experience was diminished. To some extent, the herbal and plant-like expectation built up from the smell continued into my first four trials with this coffee. Using prior knowledge of how coffee tends to perform as it ages, I put the coffee away for another week, allowing it to mellow out, hoping that some of the aggressive organic flavor would dissipate. 

It did! Upon returning to the espresso just over three weeks after roast, I found it to be a balanced, yet spiced and complex, espresso fit for milk drinks or straight espresso. There is a distinct chocolatey element as well as a hint of baking spices- cardamom, cinnamon, graham cracker, and even a touch of corn syrup sweetness (not to be misunderstood as actual corn syrup).

Aroma: 7/10, carrots, cut grass /after aging: pine needles, pecans Body: 9/10, vanilla syrup consistency, reddish hue Flavor: 8/10, milk chocolate, spices, some organic flavors Acidity: 10/10, this coffee’s strongest element, clean, crisp, refined Sweetness: 8/10, citrus fruit juices, natural- no taste of refined sugar Finish: 9/10, balanced, pleasant, somewhat drying bringing you back

Total Score: 91/100

*This coffee was submitted to TEV free of charge

[theespressovein]

Mama Carmen’s: Black Apple Espresso

What a great surprise this coffee has been. I sometimes get this false sense of absolute knowledge, where I think “Oh, I haven’t heard of them... they must be somewhat ‘meh’.” It’s hard to describe, but I’d wager that most coffee enthusiasts and professionals that have been around specialty coffee for a good number of years fall prey to this “I’ve seen it all” mindset. News flash: I haven’t, and neither have you.

19.0g dose : 38g yield : 31 seconds

As many of you will already know, a sure way to rack up the points in my book is by accurately describing the product in its description. A false advertisement is usually very unwelcome, oftentimes making the customer feel that 1) the roaster is not as expert as they claim and 2) hesitant to purchase again because trust has been lost. In the very best case scenario, the flavors are a surprise, but are at least positive- in which case, both of my previous concerns still apply to some degree. Mama Carmen’s hit the nail on the head with this coffee. 

Blackberry, molasses, and dark chocolate notes were very distinct all throughout the life of the espresso. Aromatically, the coffee was fruity and lively. The earliest flavor sensations were bright and berry-like, nearly salty on the sides of my tongue before the aggressive flavors faded into a more syrupy rooted sweetness. Cocoa was all over the place after I swallowed and in the aftertaste. I felt like I could still taste the berry on my breath when my espresso was finished. The cocoa didn’t broadcast itself as much. That said, for accuracy in flavor description, I’ll consider Mama Carmen’s to be quite proficient. I’d buy this one.

Aroma: 10/10, vibrant berry, caramel, mild nut Body: 9/10, creamy, dark and spotted crema, resilient Flavor: 8/10, as advertised, somewhat limited in scope Acidity: 9/10, roasted to full city, but had lively flavor and stood up to milk Sweetness: 8/10, complex, harder to taste over acidity, not candy-like Finish: 9/10, cocoa linger, berry taste on breath

Total Score: 93/100

*submitted to TEV without cost*

[theespressovein]

Heart Coffee Roasters: Stereo Blend

One of the most underrated elements of a satisfying espresso (or any coffee) experience is the fulfillment of flavor promises. One of the most accurate coffees in this way up to this date on the review was HoneyCo’s Classic espresso. Heart’s Stereo has joined this elite and accurate club. While this coffee’s flavor profile wasn’t the raspberry creme-sicle or lemon-berry slush that some have been, this coffee was tasty and consistent.

19.5g dose : 39.7g yield : 31 seconds

Stereo was made from a 50/50 combination of Colombian coffees this time- San José and El Mirador. Together, their similar solubility profiles coordinated to create a nicely cohesive taste. The label broadcasts expectations of fudge, toffee, and red grape. Fudge and toffee were the primary flavors, especially when prepared as a 5.5oz cappuccino, but the red grape flavor was mostly lost in that format. As straight espresso, the red grade flavor was light, but perceptible- its primary contribution was in acidity and tannic linger after you swallow (that feeling you get after eating several grapes, like you can feel where your tongue touches the back of your throat). 

One of my favorite aspects of this espresso was its shear size. This is an unsung value for espresso lovers. One of the least enjoyable parts of preparing espresso is finally getting the spro “singing” and then running out just a couple of days later. The Stereo arrived as a full pound! This allowed me over a week of deliciousness AFTER it was solidly dialed-in. I found that this espresso tasted best in the specs provided above, but specifically in days 8-9 after roast. I first sampled the coffee on day 6. It smelled fantastic, so I went ahead and tried it. A bit sour and unbalanced. By day 14, the luster of the previous few days was clearly diminishing somewhat- still GREAT, but less overwhelming so.

Aroma: 10/10, richly sweet, Werther’s Original, some fructose Body: 9/10, creamy, long lasting crema, attractive, mouth filling Flavor: 8/10, exactly as advertised, but a little simple Acidity: 9/10, for espresso- not too bright, played well with milk, crisp Sweetness: 9/10, fructose sweetness without the fruit, c.milk, candy Finish: 9/10, grape tannic sensation, medium linger, desirable

Total Score: 94/100

[theespressovein]

Tinker Coffee Co: Conduit Espresso

Tinker’s first foray into espresso blending was a success! Bright and tight, citrus, edgy, aggressive, and unapologetic about it. The roaster’s notes on the coffee said as much, so the coffee performed as promised. The rest comes down to personal preference and extraction execution.

18g dose : 41g yield : 28 seconds

In the testing process, I always start the extractions at 20g dose, 40g yield, at around 25-30 seconds total brew time. I followed this plan with Conduit as well. At my standard brew parameters, this coffee was sour, almost like an acid. With a lower dose, faster brew time, and higher yield (as was specified by Tinker), this coffee became immediately more balanced, less tenacious, and forgiving in milk drinks. 

The overwhelming feeling I got while enjoying this espresso with breakfast was that I should not be drinking this AND orange juice- too redundant in flavor. I switched to grape juice for a few mornings along with this coffee and my toast to add some flavor variety to my diet. The body was a very pleasant “warm honey” consistency and its appearance that of amber with flecks of semi-melted caramel on the surface. When brewed into a 5.5 ounce cappuccino, much of what made this coffee enjoyable as a double shot was lost in the milk. The profile was just too light and bright to really hold up against full-fat milk, in my opinion. The lack of versatility was a handicap when trying to use this coffee prepared in any way other than a double espresso or an americano. 

Despite that, Tinker said that this coffee would be bright and it was. They said it would be sharp and it was. They said the coffee would be a great wake-me-up and it was. I’m excited to taste how Tinker changes this seasonal espresso and how it improves as their experience compounds. Imagine, a company that is this satisfying in their first presentation in blending. I’m impressed and you will be, too.

Aroma: 9/10, honeydew, flower petals, watermelon Body: 9/10, amber colored, melted caramel in crema, warm honey Flavor: 8/10, orange juice, limeade, lemonade Acidity: 7/10, intense, at times overwhelming- especially in milk Sweetness: 8/10, citrus fruit juices, natural- no taste of refined sugar Finish: 8/10, short-lived, but balanced and pleasant

Total Score: 89/100

*submitted to TEV without cost*

[theespressovein]

BeanFruit Coffee Co: Confection Espresso (v. 215)

Another sweet concoction from BeanFruit. The word “sweet” is almost inadequate for many of the delicious espressos I get to sample. The word fails but not because it is insufficient in my hyperbolic rhapsodizing. “Sweet” is just too vague to mean anything. If all the espressos I post to this website are “sweet,” what does that even say anymore? That said, This espresso is sweet.

20g dose : 40g yield : 31 seconds

To make “sweet” mean anything, let me elaborate. Rather than the intensely fruity or refined sugar sweetness most people associate with coffee immediately, this coffee extracts like caramel and honey syrup. I feel like I am drinking a type of breakfast muffin. Very noticeable chocolate twinges spring up on the sides of the tongue just as you swallow, too. My wife makes these chocolate cupcakes with caramel icing that seem somehow related to this espresso- like first cousins. When mixed with a nice sweet whole milk in a 5 ounce cappuccino, the flavors you appreciate as espresso continue on, almost as if nothing has changed- which is really strange, in my experience. Yes, some of the vigor and intensity is muted by the milk, but the flavors are really similar. Because of that, this espresso may actually score higher as a cappuccino when compared to many others.

Where this coffee struggles (if you can even say that) is in terms of body and aftertaste, for me. Body is full and substantial, but has little sense of “coating” quality which I typically enjoy. Related to this, the aftertaste passes pretty fleetingly. The previous Confection I reviewed was much different in these regards. It had a refined sugar sweetness, lasting aftertaste and filling body; this version seems to differ from that one on all accounts, yet actually scores higher for me overall. Ingredients between these two blends could not be more different. Previous version had: Guatemala Huehuetenango & Peru Cajamarca: Bourbon, Cataui, Typica. This version has: Guatemala Atitlan, Ethiopia Yirgacheffe, Mexico Chipas: Typica, Caturra, Heirloom, and Mundo Novo. Paul has created something special here- I know the difficulty that comes with blending. For him to use coffees as strong as these as ingredients, as different as they are, we are watching a true craftsman do work.

Aroma: 8/10, muted fruit, caramel sauce, cocoa  Body: 8/10, 2% milk, smooth, even-colored crema  Flavor: 9/10, strong caramel, wild honey, chocolate Acidity: 10/10, intense, but not overwhelming. balanced floral Sweetness: 10/10, caramelized sugars, dark chocolate, plum, oatmeal Finish: 7/10, balanced, but short-lived, cocoa after swallowing

Total Score: 92/100

*submitted to TEV without cost*

[theespressovein]

Sterling Coffee Roasters: Colombia Inza-Cauca 

If coffee were to elect a representative of “espresso-ness,” this coffee could be the new ambassador. Really, this coffee did not particularly blow my mind in any one direction (hehe, I typed “One Direction”), but it did present a solidly enjoyable espresso experience. I would buy it.

20g dose : 40g yield :30 seconds

I tend to enjoy medium-roasted espressos for their added body and richer development of roast flavors. For that reason, this coffee had an advantage- it was roasted right into that sweet spot for me. Coffees with more extreme characteristics also seem to get higher reviews from me- the passion fruit bombs, chocolate cakes, and citrus squeezes almost always do well. On that account, this coffee suffered some due to the balanced and rounded flavor profile.

As a straight espresso, the aroma was soft and sweet, kind of like smelling an orange or peach without breaking its peel or skin. Upon first sip, the coffee continued this gentle caress of my palate. Cashews, almonds, ripe Valencia orange, cantaloupe, and sweetened grapefruit were all notable flavors. However, none of these flavors were truly dominant in the cup. The finish was surprisingly drying- leaving you with an empty cup VERY quickly.

Filtered, this coffee amplified the cantaloupe, orange, and grapefruit characteristics but also added a mild cocoa nib sensation, especially in the finish.

Here’s a bit from Sterling’s page:

We serve this coffee as both espresso and drip in our shops.  We use 19g ground espresso to produce 40g brewed espresso in 30 seconds.  If you don't have a scale and the espresso is between 7 and 14 days old, just aim for a volume a little over 2.25 ounces for a double.  Please note this coffee is delicious as straight espresso but can get lost in milk.

I wholeheartedly agree with Sterling’s last statement: this coffee does get lost in milk, even a little bit It was far less enjoyable as a 5.5oz cappuccino and less that satisfying as a macchiato. That said, here is the scoring breakdown:

Aroma: 7/10, mild nuts, fruit- some citrus some passion

Body: 10/10, very balanced and enjoyable- whole milk

Flavor: 8/10, mix of fruits and nuts, not extreme

Acidity: 8/10, rounded and pleasing, not pointed

Sweetness: 8/10, roasted nut, molasses, ripe fruits

Finish: 8/10, drying sensation, medium linger

Total Score: 89/100

*this coffee submitted to TEV without cost*

[theespressovein]

HoneyCo Coffee: Classic Espresso

“Sweet and vibrant, but always balanced and predictable.”

An excellent and fitting description, HoneyCo. Chris Baca (& the Petersons) has struck again with this espresso. I expected HoneyCo Classic Espresso to provide a satisfying experience, but with the operation still being in its relative infancy, I did not expect to be THIS satisfied. Truly, an experience I can recommend whole-heartedly. A medium (nearly full-city) espresso that is difficult to disagree with.

21g dose : 40g yield : 33 seconds

More from HoneyCo on their espresso:

“Balance is back with Honeyco Classic. As a straight shot you'll enjoy sweet raspberry jam notes up front, leading to a long lasting dark chocolate finish, with heavy mouth feel throughout. Combine it with milk and the raspberry melts away, and the cup is dominated by creamy milk chocolate.”

I’ll give you this summary again, but this time I will bold the phrases I think are most accurate and detectable:

“Balance is back with Honeyco Classic. As a straight shot you'll enjoy sweet raspberry jam notes up front, leading to a long lasting dark chocolate finish, with heavy mouth feel throughout. Combine it with milk and the raspberry melts away, and the cup is dominated by creamy milk chocolate.”

I think you get the point. HoneyCo knows how to roast and achieve what they are looking for in the cup. When reading the description some roasters provide for their coffees, doubt can creep in. As a self-proclaimed coffee roaster myself, I am very impressed and encouraged- I received exactly what they said I would. More statistics on this coffee from HoneyCo:

Farm: Various Country: Colombia & Guatemala Region: Huila / La Libertad Cultivar: Caturra, Bourbon, Typica Elevation: 1500-2000 MASL Processing: Washed

My only concern for this coffee was that out of its total 10oz package, I found .3 oz of clearly burnt/unroasted beans in the bag. These anomalies were easy to spot and remove from the bag, but still- when we’re talking about such a small amount of coffee to begin with, every gram is precious.

Aroma: 8/10, notable dark chocolate, mixed berry

Body: 10/10, thick, round, syrupy, chocolate milk

Flavor: 9/10, raspberry, blackberry, blood orange, hot chocolate, vanilla wafer

Acidity: 10/10, complex, sweet, comfortable, pointed

Sweetness: 9/10, basal, rounded, refined, honeyed

Finish: 10/10, roasty, coating, lingering, filling

Total Score: 96/100

[theespressovein]

Counter Culture Coffee: Hologram Blend

A polished coffee put together by coffee professionals. Counter Culture has been doing this for over twenty years now and their experience shows in the flavor profile of their products. While they may not take as many or as “big” of risks as some smaller and newer companies, Counter Culture can be counted on for a consistent and high-quality product. They deliver and meet your expectations- sometimes they exceed them.

19.9g dose : 39g yield : 29 seconds

Hologram met the expectations I had for it, almost exactly. My experience with this coffee was established a few years ago when I was considering using Counter Culture as a supplier for a shop I was working on in Indianapolis. “Rustico” was the blend’s name back then. Since this coffee matched its hype so precisely, I’ll let it speak for itself with a quick quotation from CC’s website:

Hologram is our update of the classic Mocha Java flavor profile. Fruit-forward and chocolatey coffees combine to create something distinctly complex.

Hologram is one of our most complex blended coffees. With that in mind, we recently updated the name along with new packaging to something that better evokes that complexity. Something that reflects its dimensionality. Created with varying intensity—of light in the case of an actual hologram and with flavors in the case of this coffee. Hologram is a little mysterious. And, yet, familiar. Elusive, but reassuring. And, of course, it tastes great. Long-time customers may recognize this coffee by its old name, Rustico—or Aficionado before that—which was in use until fall 2014.

An important part of Hologram—and the iterations that came before—is the sundried natural Ethiopian component, which brings darker fruit notes to the mix from coffee beans that are literally dried in the sun still wrapped in their coffee-cherry fruit.

Blend Components: 50% APU, Peru 40% Biloya Natural Sundried, Ethiopia 10% Haru, Ethiopia

Aroma: 8/10, notable dark chocolate, black cherry, toast

Body: 8/10, whole milk, round, syrupy

Flavor: 9/10, bittersweet bakers cocoa, red currant, red cherry, fig

Acidity: 10/10, complex, juicy, vibrant

Sweetness: 9/10, dried fruit and berries, spiced (coriander, cinnamon)

Finish: 10/10, roast character, coating, lingering, interesting

Total Score: 94/100

[theespressovein]

Spotted Cow Coffee Company: Farmhouse Espresso

What a ride. As a straight shot of espresso, this blend really sings sweetly. It is billed as a fruity and chocolaty “versatile, comforting, and rewarding blend of top coffees to suit every need.” In this task, I think it both succeeds and fails. Let me explain.

21g dose : 41g yield : 31 seconds

While the coffee is certainly described accurately in taste, it will not necessarily satisfy everyone. When served to guests who enjoy milk-based drinks like a traditional cappuccino or latte, this coffee’s bright, fruity acidity still makes itself evident. Those looking for an espresso that will fade into a comfortable “white noise” role will not appreciate Farmhouse’s determination to be tasted even when coupled with 4-6 ounces of steamed whole milk. Farmhouse will not suit every need, but it will suit your need for a sweet, complex, yet familiar espresso that can keep its character even when prepared as a milk beverage. 

My favorite shot of this espresso came 6 days off-roast, but even to this morning (when it was finally used up 11 days after roast), it performed well. Blueberry, pomegranate, chocolate covered cherry juice were all noticeable and positive flavors as straight espresso. As a cappuccino, this espresso lost the pomegranate and gained angel food cake notes.

This coffee is comprised of Guatemala Panajachel & Ethiopia Aramo and is the current top review of 2015 on TEV. Buy it while you still can.

Aroma: 8/10, muted fruit: cantaloupe, white grape, papaya

Body: 8/10, 2% milk, smooth, amber colored crema, resilient 

Flavor: 9/10, blueberry, currant, pomegranate, cran-cherry

Acidity: 10/10, dense, structured, vibrant, clean (not metallic)

Sweetness: 9/10, cola, nought, vanilla, milk chocolate

Finish: 9/10, balanced, lingering, welcome

Total Score: 93/100

[theespressovein]

Bodka Coffee Company: Main Squeeze Espresso

The packaging is not particularly impressive and the blend’s name comes off as a little tacky. A full 16 ounces seems like an unusual size (at least since the late 1990s) and the company’s location seems ludicrous (Alabama? Really?). At first glance, this seems like a coffee with little chance of flavorful success.  David (Bodka’s owner), step back from the ledge, man. This review is only getting started- and it’s going to get better.

19g dose : 37g yield : 36 seconds

In coffee, I have found that sales are made, to a large extent anyway, through the perception of quality. If people perceive you to be high quality before they taste your stuff, then that is what they conclude the vast majority of the time after a taste experience. The opposite is usually true, also. Bodka had an uphill battle on the perception front for all the reasons listed above. A quick glance at Bodka’s reviews on sites like Home Barista and you’ll see that most are favorable. However, it is difficult to trust the palates of strangers so I dove right in, still skeptical.

As a 5.5oz cappuccino, this has been probably the tastiest “classic” espresso I’ve had in 2015. I actually thought I was drinking a mocha for a minute.  Cocoa, honey, and hints of caramel in the aftertaste were all present in a big way. Huge thumbs up to this coffee as a milk-based espresso. If I had given this coffee its score based on this experience, it would be in the 95-97 range for sure. But, I didn’t.

As an espresso, Main Squeeze is typical in many ways. Whole milk-like body, persistent and dark crema, fruity aromatics, brooding and cleansing bitterness in the aftertaste. After the very impressive cappuccino showing, the espresso tasting was slightly less notable. That said, this coffee is proof that quality is not always found in the packaging. Despite its first impression, Main Squeeze was capable of putting together my best cappuccino of the year.

Aroma: 8/10 reduced fruit, lightly woody, fresh-baked bread

Body: 9/10 whole milk, long-lasting crema, darker color

Flavor: 7/10 hints of tangerine, then rye whiskey, finally tobacco

Acidity: 8/10 bright, balanced, deepens into cocoa dramatically with milk

Sweetness: 8/10 natural fruit syrups, honey-wheat bread

Finish: 9/10 balanced, but diminishes quickly as shot cools

Total Score: 89/100

*coffee submitted to TEV without cost*

[theespressovein]

BeanFruit Coffee Co: Confection Espresso

At first opening of a package, many coffee lovers develop their expectations for a coffee. You cannot help but analyze the scent of the roasted beans and let your imagination run wild with what is waiting for your taste buds. Personally, I do the same thing with the covers history texts, but I digress. The aroma of a coffee is its “curb appeal.” Confection Espresso did not make my imagination do the “little dance” that most of us enjoy so much. To be fair, my sinus’ have been out of whack for the last week or so (Missouri’s not quite spring, not quite winter, doing its best to destroy me). Nevertheless, this coffee had little-to-no hook in the aroma department.

20g dose : 40g yield : 29 seconds

My hesitation regarding this coffee’s flavor was unfounded. What has been the least interesting (aroma-wise) of the coffees I have had this year has actually turned out to be the most sweet and fulfilling flavor profile once extracted. I wish you could have been there. The espresso pulls so smoothly- dropping into the cup like real maple syrup out of a bottle. Imagine the texture of a honey steamer made with high fat whole milk. That is the body of this espresso. The aroma is still somewhat shallow, but as soon as the imbibing begins, everything changes. Cherry everything is happening in my mouth right now. Bright limeade at first (those of you with a Sonic Drive-in restaurant will know what I’m talking about), then a classic cherry Coca-Cola as I swallow. There even seems to be real effervescence! This is a sweet coffee (hence, the name “Confection”), but not in a candy-sense: only sweetness like nature intended, with only a hint of help- a lot like a sweet tisane with a half teaspoon of sugar added. After several minutes, I’m still tasting this one. Excellent. This bag will be gone very soon.

Aroma: 6/10 quiet, muted, base, but not offensive

Body: 9/10 warmed syrup, latte (steamed milk) consistency

Flavor: 9/10 cherry everything, limeade, then cola

Acidity: 9/10 tart, citrusy, softens dramatically with milk

Sweetness: 9/10 milk chocolate, herbal tisane with white sugar

Finish: 8/10 balanced, lasting, heavy lingering aromatics

Total Score: 90/100

*coffee submitted to TEV without cost*

[theespressovein]

Sterling Coffee Roasters: Lovejoy Espresso

This is the espresso you serve your Italian grandfather when he comes over for a visit. It is what he expects. Darker, heavier, less aggressive, sultry. Since both of my grandfathers are exceedingly midwestern farmer types, I don't prepare this for them- they won't drink espresso, nor even say the word "espresso." Instead, this is the espresso I prefer for my lazy Saturday mornings. Count Basie playing, sunlight streaming through the windows, Lovejoy in my demitasse. Clive Coffee supplies this with most machine purchases and now I know why. It's pleasing to just about everyone.

20g dose : 38g yield : 29 seconds

The same qualities you expect from a more traditional espresso: full mouthfeel, darker crema, rich cocoa, low acidity- these are all qualities I appreciate in this espresso. These are the same qualities that make it "safe" and less experimental. As one of the first coffees brewed on my new Quick Mill Vetrano 2B espresso machine, it was a very useful coffee to use as a baseline to establish my extraction expectations. Switching from this coffee (which acted much like a bass guitar) to the the electrifying Populace "Espresso Proper" (the lead guitar), allowed me to feel out the full range of my machine's capabilities. Those of you seeking to recreate the experience you had in Italy during your vacation: this is the coffee for you. 

Aroma: 7/10 roasty, nutty, earthy

Body: 10/10 initially very thick, maintains well

Flavor: 8/10 nuts, dark chocolate, plum

Acidity: 9/10 balanced, mild, pleasing with milk

Sweetness: 7/10 cocoa, cashew, soft

Finish: 8/10 balanced, non-confrontational 

Total Score: 89/100

[theespressovein]

Entimos Coffee: Kenya Nyeri Kiambara AB espresso

Honestly, I don't usually go in for SO espressos. I find that their flavor profiles have (at least in the past) been underwhelmingly one-sided and simple. When I enjoy espresso, my experience is multifaceted and dynamic which lends itself to carefully orchestrated blends. This single origin (SO) espresso is different.

20g dose : 39g yield : 31 seconds

What I found most compelling about this coffee was that the syrupy fruit quality was inescapable. It followed me from the initial aroma experience all the way through the finish. The flavor was like a wild honey or chocolate syrup- sweet with definite berry notes. Full body, like a motor oil viscosity, fruit soda sweetness and effervescence combined to create a completely satisfying experience. When used in a 5oz cappuccino, the espresso smoothed out even further to produce something that almost seemed to be raspberry flavored. This is a good single origin espresso. Skeptics, test it out.

Aroma: 9/10 sweet, fruity, lively

Body: 9/10 initially very thick, but loosens up over time

Flavor: 8/10 wild honey, berry, tannins

Acidity: 8/10 balanced, strong yet reserved

Sweetness: 9/10 wild berries, stone fruits, milk chocolate

Finish: 7/10 balanced, persistent, not overpowering

Total Score: 90/100

*This coffee was submitted to the The Espresso Vein without cost*

[theespressovein]

Compelling and Rich: Brown Betty Espresso

What a beautiful broad. Seriously. Just looking at this espresso makes you want it. Serious "crema appeal" for anyone who knows what to look for.

18g dose : 37g yield : 27 seconds

More of a traditional espresso blend, Brown Betty uses coffees from Africa and the Americas. After a wait of 11 days after roast, this espresso is clearly sitting in its "sweet spot." The aroma itself isn't overly noticeable, but the experience picks up dramatically once your lips reach the nectar. Rich, creamy mouthfeel resulting from a deeper roast profile makes this espresso go down with the consistency of warm raw honey. The African elements in the coffee bring out lively fruity qualities. The bag says to expect "Pomegranate and Dark Chocolate." I agree, but would add Brazil nut, and ripe peach to that flavor roll call. This is one of the most balanced and overall satisfying espressos I've had in a while. It's not a thriller, but it is a keeper.

Aroma: 6/10 basic, but pleasant

Body: 9/10 rich, creamy, filling

Flavor: 9/10 bright, cocoa, fruity, pleasant tartness

Acidity: 9/10 refined, balanced, mellow

Sweetness: 10/10 passion fruit, complex, honeyed, nut

Finish: 8/10 pleasant, lasting, balanced

Overall Score: 91/100

*This coffee was submitted to the The Espresso Vein without cost*

[theespressovein]

Populace Coffee: Thermal Espresso

22g dose : 37g yield : 27 second extraction

This coffee was a fighter. After tweaking and determining that a slightly higher dose was needed (grind was quite fine, yet still pulled quickly- sub 25 seconds- and resulted in a thin, hot espresso), this coffee provided a very pleasant experience. 12 days post-roast, this coffee has plenty of bite remaining to show well for another week.

The PNG ingredient (50%) is noticeable in a distinctive tangy quality, almost like the wild berry jam you find at that farmer's market most Saturday mornings. The Ethiopia portion (50%) adds a clear acidity that provides the high frequency many look for in espressos- particularly good for use in alternative milks with lower fat content, like coconut or almond (in my experience). While the acidity adds sharpness, it also seems to wipe away much of the aftertaste causing the espresso's flavor to fade pretty quickly. This effect causes me to finish mine in a blink,  which is not bad in itself- more sad than anything. Over all, another good showing, tasty espresso from Populace. 

Aroma: 7/10 sweet, but basic

Body: 8/10 grows more full as the cup cools

Flavor: 7/10 bright, tangy, floral

Acidity: 10/10 sharp, crisp, pointed

Sweetness: 8/10 berry, floral, honeyed

Finish: 7/10 fast, but pleasant

Total Score: 87/100

*This coffee was submitted to the The Espresso Vein without cost*