Travel&Share

My parents say I'm stupid, my friends are jelaous, I don't give a damn.

[danicalifo]

The post of revival

Haven’t been posting here for... almost 2 years. Long time, phew! My last big journey was to Minsk, Belarus, in May 2014 which is not covered here. I clearly remember that time. I had the strong feeling that I wouldn’t be travelling for quite a long time. As I see it was a true feeling, yeah. 

It happened because my 1 year Shengen visa expired, then I had to move back to my home city in 2014, then I tried to come back to the Russian capital, then I decided to come back again. And here I am - enjoying pros and cons of live in a 1 million sized Russian city. I don’t feel sad or itchy or something about it, I just accepted it by all the little pieces of my body and mind. I don’t feel attached to Moscow anymore, neither I am disgusted with my city anymore. 

But there is some plan that may happen this summer. It started from the marriage proposal. No, not to me but to one of my closest friends. She and her boyfriend will get married in Tours, France, where boyfriend’s family lives. I’m invited as a bride’s made. Nothing is clear yet about the date, there’re even some difficulties with organizing but hahaha... I’ve already planned the whole trip around France.  I start this description with two things.  1. I don’t quite remember when but some time ago I discovered a travel service RoutePerfect 2. Around a year ago I realized how many people I’d met on my tarvels and on my Moscow couch as a couchsurfing host and dicovered that pretty many people who I’d love to meet again lived in France. 

And now, when I got a really strong reason to go abroad again, to spend money not just on a trip but because it’s a wedding of my friend, I daydreamed in detail and created a dream route for my summer vacation 2016.   

This is what you get in the end using RoutePerfect. There’s a tab where they gathered many possible options to get from A to B. There you may find transport companies that you maybe can’t easily find on Google. A page with details of the route can help you to discover interesting spots like it helped me to find Pont du Gard before, an incredible ancient Roman  aqueduct over the river Gardon. Since then it’s been my dream sight in France, besides Mont Saint Michel!  

Plus just like last week I discivered that lavanda flowers in French Provence extactly when I was going there. And I found this small medieval Abbey in the low Alps - Sénanque Abbey - where the monks look after the lavanda fields.  

OMG I really want to visit all these gems, meet my travel friends and attend a French wedding of my friends. I cross my fingers for it. I need an adventure!

[danicalifo]

Budapest b'day weekend

Well, some time ago, for my b-day weekend I organized a short trip to lovely Budapest. *If don’t want to read a story and want to go straight to a 3 days route in the city, pls, scroll down till Day 1” * I still had my Schengen valid. I don’t like spending my b-day in the same place where I generally live in present. The cheapest flights from Moscow to outside of Russia are to Budapest now. I paid only 110 euro for a return ticket! Finally the August suggestion of a guy in a ticket office of a railway station in Budapest came real – I bought cheap WizzAir flights!

- I’d like to buy a ticket to Moscow, please. - Eh.. You know, it’s quite expensive. - I know, around 150 euro. It’s ok, I have enough to buy. - But a train takes 36 hours… - Yeah, I know but I just want to go by train.  <Started typing smth> - Did you check the planes? WizzAir has recently launched cheap flights to Moscow. - I know, thanks! Just want to go by train, I like trains!

But WizzAir is a lowcoster, it means the less attentively you read the more you pay in the end. For example, you should print out the paper with your booking code otherwise you’ll have to pay 10 euros at the check-in. In the line, before me, there was a company of some foreigners who got tickets from someone. That someone didn’t care enough to print the tickets or inform them about this rule. So, they had a big arguement at the desk thinking that were “f**king Russian rules”.

Anyway, I safely landed at the Budapest airport, caught 200E bus, then a blue line metro train from Újpest Központ and was at Deak Ferenz in 40 mins after arrival. My friend waited for me there. First, we changed money and dropped our bags at Kamil’s place. He himself was in Prague unfortunately.

My whole plan was to see and visit places I haven’t been to back in September. To make it faster and just to keep track on our route that weekend I’m putting it here.

Day 1 - The Central market Vasarcsarnok with a hope to buy wine&cheese for a picknick. But it was closing, so we enjoyed the variety of goods in a supermarket downstairs.

- The Rock Church. It wasn’t that impressive as I expected but still is a nice sight from the historical point of view and a cheap entrance ticket.

- Up to the Gellert hill where the Statue of Liberty stands. 

- Kopaszi gát, a cosy park on the shore. 

- On top of the Buda hill when it got dark. 

- The most famous ruin bar Szimpla with its genuine interiors, labirints and crowds of people. 

Day 2 - A bike rental shop Yellow Zebra by the Opera House. To rent a bike costs around 10 euro and the deposit is 40. It’s convenient if you don’t have enough cash just to get back 30 euro in the end of the service.  - Breakfast at Mozaik. A lovely tea&coffee shop with long lists of tea sorts and a breakfast offers. 

- The Grand Synagoge and a tour included into the entrance fee (takes less than an hour).  

- If it’s Sunday go and enjoy various hadicrafts from locals in Gozsdu Udvar’s market.

- Gothic Church of St.Elizabeth. 

- Hummus bar in 6 Hollán Ernő street to buy food-to-go. It was hummus in our case, falafel was not available. We paid 600 forints (2 euros) per hummus.  - Rode along the coast to Romai shore, had wine and blew the candles :)

- Came back to the center through Margaret island. - The monument Shoes on the Danube Bank erected in honor of the victims of the Holocaust and Arrow Cross terror. 

- The square by the Parliament and Ethnographical museum. - Back to Yellow Zebra. - After some rest (we needed it!!!) hung out at other ruin bars.

Day 3 - Breakfast at whatever place is close to your hotel/hostel/CS host. - Varosliget, a city park with a castle (which hosts an agro museum now), ponds and green lawns. In September we went to flea market in the park.

- Heroes square. - Jewish quarter free walking tour: http://www.triptobudapest.hu/ It was VERY good and the guide was nice and knowledgeable. And cute :)

- Drink wine and have dinner somewhere around Kazinczy street and the adjacent district. 

[danicalifo]

What are your plans?

Good question. The hardest on-arrival times are probably gone. Today I gave back the stuff I borrowed for the last trip to Israel. Now the backpack doesn't remind me about alluring lands that are somewhere but here. 

Let's get back to the present? Ok.

For a while... 

Hehe, sure, I've got some ideas already before the trip. But they were more like ghosts, like self-concious shadows of a dream. And I'm sorry but I have to plan again, exactly. I need that at least to calculate costs, to figure out how much [damn] money I need. Did I figure it out by now? Kidding me?! NO. 

But I just know my life will be rich but tight next 7-8 months. I do several things not at the same moment but around same time now and every day little by little I'll get closer to what I want to research and obtain.

I've already got a pretty challenging job offer that we'll discuss tomorrow. I hope we'll build partnership of my kinda part-time employment whereas I keep my main job. This is gonna be an exploision for my brain but maybe the direct connection to a travel field, work time limititations set in advance and not tieing me up in another office will make everything more smooth. But what I already think about (running a few steps forward...) is that if it'll go well it can give me an opportunity to turn it into my main job and travel because I won't need any office for that!

To don't die because of work I'm going to search, dance, play, read and watch. 

Search for a place and project that I'll leave for in August/September. Not sure where it should be yet, I don't care much this time. Earlier the most prefferable destination was Europe. Actually this time I want to make it as far as possible. To some extent I want to evanesce.

Dance not only in night clubs what I love but learn some kind of dance. I started argentinian tango classes this week. By now I'm not 100% sure I'll resume because I don't know if it's my style. When I saw lindy hop or folk scotish dancers I couldn't easily take my eyes off them.

Play ukulele. I want to play soulful songs for my friends, guests and myself. And then I want the instrument to be convenient to take with me.

Read books. Keep on reading Russian history and art classic literature. 

Watch theatre perfomances and good movies. 

So, the main plan is to dream. And follow the dream little by little every day. Here and now, in the beauty of the present moment.

[danicalifo]

My first CSer in 2014 became a very funny and very bold guy who was the third Dutch person this couch had :D He came from Bejing by transsiberian railway via Mongolia, the Baikal and Yekaterinburg while his friends were chilling out by the ocean in South-East Asia. Is he crazy? Well, it's a rhetorical question :D 

Jens did CS first in his life with me and I'm happy that he experienced Russian warmth in Russian sharp frost times! Have unforgettable time in StP! 

[danicalifo]

Igor&Olga

Just want to write a single post to tell the world more about our great hosts in Mitzpe Ramon, Israel. This couple became very special for me because when I got ill there they took care of me and weren't indifferent. They let us use the only heater they have in their bloody cold flat, so, our room wasn't an ice cave anymore. They refused to accept money for electricity bills that could increase after this. They made me eat garlic and seems it worked in the end! 

I felt totally at home when we stayed there. Initially it was 2 night arrangement but they were absolutely fine with us being there 2 times longer:) They have their own rules to host people what are very simple and reasonable to understand and follow! They were surprised and happy when we were able to do dishes after we had a meal. Their surprise surprised me :D (because we don't think that hosts should serve surfers).

We had lovely times together walking by the crater, sharing meals or tea, talking and discussing travel plans and even visitng really bad jazz jam concert! Thanks a lot, guys, for your hospitality once again, for your tips and warmth! And follow your dream because it's cool and I hope you'll travel the world one day!

[danicalifo]

Ein Avdat & Makhtesh Ramon

Next day at some point we decided to visit a national park that was in my list of desired spots. Actually we had a choice between Ein Avdat and Timna valley but the former one was more wanted. We hitchhiked traditionally. And this time the drivers were young guys - a local and a brazilian girl. They also picked up another hitchhiker with who we shared a spot. They were coming back North because Aline had to take plane soon, like me. On the way they decided just to have a look at Ein Avdat park together with us. 

When we came we found it being closed because of the weather. At that moment the sky was completely clear and the sun was shining. Tourists were allowed to visit an observation point on top of the gorge. After we took a picture of all of us there, guys left and we stayed. 

When I just saw those surroundings I was so happy. Ein Avdat was really worth to visit! Never been to a canyon or gorge. The walls of it have such a beautiful color and interesting structure! 

We both wanted to stay there longer, just couldn't leave like that. So we passed warning signs to have closer look. Then we saw few people down and also went down. When we reached the middle bottom of the canyon we first had our favorite snack hummus and then wanted to take pictures there. We saw a water going down to next level of the canyon. But then a park keeper came and kicked us out. But the good point was that we could enjoy all THIS on our own, without other crowds of people!

On top we again had some chance to walk along the gorge but towards another side of it. And there were no warning sings. 

Then we hitchhiked back home. A woman on a passenger seat was Russian who didn't speak Russian :D Nice! They were in hurry to be at home by the sunset becuase they followed shabath and it was Friday evening. The rest of that day we spent relaxing and sending couchrequests for Tel Aviv because we had to come back there. Party was getting over (for me). 

Nevertheless, we had plans in this area for next morning. Aron and Igor worked on a hiking route that we could take inside the crater. So we compromised on 1 hour track and time that was evaluated as long to get to and from there. We couldn't predict traffic, so we had to cut the main part. Also we wanted to reach Tel Aviv by darkness. 

Finally we woke up by 1 hour later than planned :D But hithhiking was still easy even at 8:30 am on shabath morning. First ride brought us somewhere on the inner crater's road. Then we got 2 guys in a big car. One of them tried to tell his version of the crater's origin :D You guess? Sure, the fall of meteorite!

Then we had to walk around 1 hour to find a right trail. And again we found ourselves in a fascinating place created by the nature! And there was almost nobody. Just stones, sand, hills.

At some point we met a trop of IDF with a guide. We talked to him, Aron asked much about Jordan.

We passed other nice spots:

This white gorge was pretty plain and maybe nothing special. But I again found something that I'd never seen. Here, on the picture, it looks like covered by sugar powder.

On the way back, even not from the main road, we were picked up by 2 guys coming back from the South (Arava valley) to Tel Aviv after enjoying the look and nature of floods. Their jeep was cover by mud on sides and looked like a real car after a real adventure. We still had to drop on Olga and Igor's place to grab our backpacks and give a key back. On the whole, beacause of our luck, we made that small trip pretty quick and quicker than it was expected. 

We said goodbye to Olga (and Igor on the eve) and hitchhiked to the North. We got an almost direct ride from a guy coming back after a photo weekend in the South. He had a very good camera on the backseat. He dropped us by the big road leading to the city from Ben Gurion airport. The spot wasn't the best because cars ran too fast and actually weren't allowed to stop there. But in 10 minutes a van stopped for us. A driver was a Ukrainian guy :D Maybe that explains why he stopped :D He workes as a driver of that good-looking van for VIP tourists. Oh la la. He took us in the area where our host lives and we had to walk only for 20 minutes.

It was sunset time when we met our sweet host, Lior, a very welcoming guy. I know we were his 1st surfers ever. Lior tried his best to let us rest after our way with offering some snacks, shower and warm AC (what was very important for at that point :D). Thank you for you kind hospitality! He was busy with studies though and we spent time out in the city with his flatmate. Our mission was to find knafeh. 

Olga described it so good and I thought hadn't tried it yet. So when we found an exact place she advised us we realised we had it :D Then we found a pub to have some beer. I actually tried very good local one, ale from Negev. 

This trip was over in the middle of next night when we woke up around 3 to get to a railway station where I cought train (for 16 NIS) to Ben Gurion. Just after I came in the airport I met Dave, a couchsurfer who stayed with Yotam in Jerusalem :) Next 2 hours I spent in lines being thoroughly checked by Israel control crew. It was ok, people were polite and not rude, but the process still makes you stressed (especially when it's 5 in the morning). Many passengers passed through the same when I looked around. But honestly, even thought I didn't want to leave, it was pleasure to reach my plane seat by a window and get completely lost in my sick dreams and thoughts for 2 hours till plane landed in Istanbul.

[danicalifo]

Mitzpe Ramon

Next day brought the believe I felt better. Actually I did. In the morning. We left Jerusalem pretty late already but still had plenty of time to reach the destination point.  The first ride we got was from a driver who asked me to take a back seat (because of a religious directive as he claimed). He was nice. He said something about hitchhiking difficulties on our further way. Then there was a guy who almost didn't speak English and gave us just a very short ride. Then we were picked up by a totally non-speaking woman and a baby. But she was friendly trying to choose the best and furtherst spot to catch a next car. She was a kinda afraid for us, too. She dropped us somewhere where we stuck for a half hour maybe what is weird because we never before and later waited longer than 10 mins. But there we met another hitchhiker, a local guy from a village nearby. He played flute and shared some tasty pastry.

He was very friendly! He even denied a ride from a driver who offered a single seat saying we are nice people :D Are we? Really? Then we got a ride for all 3 of us. At the next spot we met 2 other guys trying to hitch a car. I just raised my thumb up and we got a big car. (Maybe it still easier with a girl, even in Israel? :D) There were 2 Arabs, teachers, pretty talkative. We left them by the highway. Not reaching the main road of it a next and last car (finally) stopped for us. The back of the car was filled with bottles of water and borrowed one. A guy was very curious about couchsurfing trying to find out details, how it works, what motivates people doing this and so on. He also told us stories about an area, geography of it, different titles and beduins. We said goodbye to each other just across the street from our hosts' place.

This time we were hosted by my nationals, a couple - Igor and Olga :) Shortly after arrival they took us to the main sight of that area, Makhtesh Ramon, a giant crater. I've never seen something like that before! I've never been by any cater. We cought perfect time to meet such a place - sunset - the last sun rays on the edges of the crater while the valley was already foggy! Look at the colors:

Next day I was totally blown away. Couldn't go anywhere because of the illness. I got raised body temperature, drunk that ginger tea the whole day (and I must confess I still don't hate it), didn't have appetite but in the evevning Igor convienced me to eat garlic. So, I was brave enough but with tears in my eyes))) And I became a garlic girl for next 2 days... Egh... But I guess it helped because next day I was already up to visiting an alpaca farm!!!

I remember I got sooooooo excited about that when Aron red that there's one in this area. I've never seen these cute animals before.

In my imagination they were smiling, fluffy, softest and kindest creatures. Maybe I thought also I was going to hug them and they would just stroll around me... Ah, this was so beautiful and peaceful. In my mind. This is what happened in practice:

The question is rethorical, sure. Answer is obvious :D Yeah, they were found to be not that accurate, not that smiling, not that smart :D Alpacas really demaned for feeding. And they are very gregarious by behavior. When we got fodder in paper glasses and I offered it to on of those who browsed around freely, others came and emphatically asked for the fodder pushing each other. And one of them was with ugly teeth (what was completely unlike to what I dreamed about :D). In the end, thay scared me completely and my hand just threw the glass on the ground. Then a horse came. It got a little bit angry that alpacas (best friends of the horse, I guess) didn't leave any food. 

Aron said it was a pony not a horse. Alright, maybe it was :D Not in my world!

Then we walked back to the town passing by another local sight - a camel shaped mountain:

In the desert weather changed pretty fast. In the end of the alpaca tour the sky was already covered by big grey clouds. And in the evening when we decided to visit a local jazz jam session (what was maybe the worst I've ever heard) it was raining. It wasn't good for us because it meant floods in the valley down the town, which means road blocks, which means no beautiful spots and exploration. Anyway we still had next morning to see what the night had brought.

[danicalifo]

Jerusalem

I'd like to start this short story about around 4 days in one of the most ancient cities in the world with introduction. I'm myself not religious and I'm not baptised (yet). I still haven't made a decision if I need that in my life at all. And I never want to touch the feelings of the faithful as these are their values and I have some my own ones. So, even though it's my blog I'll try to be respectful and tolerant. 

So, as I briefly mentioned below our hosts lived in the same area, on the 5 mins walking distance from each other. It is in the area of the city market. What was one of the first spots we passed in Jerusalem. Perfect!

And some pieces of the street art that I normally couldn't pass by without shooting:

But before we got contact details from our host we had had to wait at Nienke's host's place, Ohad. Ohad is a very friendly, sociable and hospitable guy. He let us in his place without any sucpicion or stress. We immediately appreciated that! He also invited us together with his main guest for a dinner with the big company of his friends. It was a kind of shabat dinner. I met really nice and warm people there who shared with us all the food they had. I'll always remember always laughing Moran with a great dream to pass a driving test, buy a van and go travelling! Yuval, the host of the dinner, made a nice herbal tea what I loved and was very interested in visiting Russia one day. Oh, all these questions about cold, snow, vodka :D I tried to break these stereotypes and invited him to check the country by himself. Yuval, you're still welcome! Winter here has just started :D And yeah, there was somebody who cooked so delicious cookies... THANKS A LOT! 

Then we came back to our temporary homes. We had a chance to meet most of our host's housemates and drunk tea altogether. Around 6 younf people live in that house. It seemed to me that everyone had some connection to art! There was Amy with a beautiful voice, Maite with a cute smile who paints and perfors at theatre, a spiritual girl Tana, always cooking something Talia, a guy who left for a cave and Yotam, our host, who does acrobalance and hoolahooping and loves cooking. 

Unfortunately, it was VERY cold (for me) in their place and next day I woke with bad pain in throat. The sudden change of climate from hot Ein Gedi to chilly Jerusalem also affected. We took a free walking tour  what was really good! A guide, Ryan, was both knowledgeable and entertaining. So, in one word if you're there and don't know what to start from take this tour, strongly advised! It was the start to meet oddly (for me) dressed people. I think they really fit the city!

Then we went on the roof tops to be a little bit higher for the view:

Browsed around the Old town, different quarters:

We tried to go some churches, mosques and sinagogues most of all were closed and in the latters we were asked for the entrance fee. We also tried to get into Temple mount but waining in the line for an hour entrance was closed again at 1:30 pm (what we knew in advance but hope we should be fine). At some point I triend my first falafel and loved this meal! Cheap (could be found for 6 shekels only in the Muslim market!) and kosher :) 

We also went to the Western wall. Nienke and me put the notes into it. Well, we'll see. By now I can say that one of my two wishes came true in general. It said we should be more presice in our wishes, true!

Ohad took us to some nice place for lunch. He knows basic Arabic, so, we ended up with our names written in this weird language. This is mine:

We also too free Quarans for us. And I really dare to read it! Also I need to reread the Bible. The free Koran in English is available at some kiosks in the Muslim market and these outlets have a sign like: "Free Koran here".

One day was Aron's b'day. So we had a dinner and a happy traveller even got some presents and a cake with candles. I really wanted to create a kind of festive mood for you, my friend :) Hope you'll remember this day (more or less :D). 

Later that evening another CSer of Yotam arrived, a yound nice and talkative American, Dave. We had some acrobalancing class from Yotam which I unexpectedly got from him one of the mornings after I asked him what that word means because I had no any idea. That are examples of how it looks:

Guess, everybody enjoyed!

Well, next day I cancelled my visit to Bethelem because I felt worse. I stayed at home for the whole day to save energy and health for next day's hitching to the South. Yotam ang guys tried to cake care of me offering tea and juice what was very nice of them. Thanks, guys!

That was the climax to appreciate my Alexika sleeping bag! It kept me warm for the whole cold days everywhere in Israel. Mostly I used it like a blanket putting my feet inside and covering top of my body. 

Later that evening Nienke and me said goodbye to each other because she left home next morning. But before that Ohad took them in the ultraorthodox neighbourhood and they had really awesome experience there! Guys were invited to a men part of a Jewish wedding and girls were allowed to watch through a window. Well, I wouldn't mind at least that. Still envy! :) You're lucky, guys! (Or Ohad was just very nice to you ;)

So, the city itself didn't strike me in the religious context at all. I didn't get goose skin because it's around 5000 y.o. either. Maybe I'm still too young but I'm still me and I have no any idea how many 5000 years really are. I didn't catch the spirit, wasn't filled with it but it's an amazing place to learn more about history of the world and mysticism of combining so many cultures in one places; about strength to keep a small culture untouched and follow its rules in this fast changing world around it, strength to be proud of it, to be part of it. 

[danicalifo]

Ein Gedi & Dead Sea

Kibbutz Ein Gedi is a unique one. Well, there're many unique kibbutzim in the country that differ from each other by that or this. Here it has a botanical garden!

Beautiful small paradise with exotic and remarkable plants and trees brought here from all over the world.

Also animals can get lost there what, i guess, happens almost every day. Mountain goats just come here to chill in these exotic surroundings)))

I didn't know the kibbutz looks like that but when we got in I was really surprised and happy. We hadn't got a reply from our host by the time we were in the kibbutz, so first we thought of camping right there. 

We checked dining rooms in the kibbutz that were about to open but were expensive for us. So, we found a supermarket, good for us it was there. We bought a half kilo pack of hummus and had dinner right by the supermarket's entrance and many people passed by. I already noticed we got in a nice place because many of them just smiled to us. Then one old guy stopped and didn't leave us for next 2 hours. Charlie has been living in the kibbutz since its foundation.

He remembers this spot being untouched. He had a great life, travelled the world, was a photographer. He told us plenty of stuff about cameras what I didn't really understand :D But he also entertained us with his real life stories of different periods. Then we went to a hotel's bar to grab some drinks. He accompanied us all the way to there and told stories about 5-6 trees we met on the way! I guess if we would ask him for more he would know that! Amazing guy!

There, at the bar, I tried my first sakhlav in the life and felt in love with this drink. It's hot soft milk drink with different additives like cinnamon, coconut, chocolate, cookies crisps, etc. Don't miss a chance to try it! Later I knew I can be also found in Turkey. 

Relaxing at the bar we still hoped for the text from our local host. But then we checked her profile again and red she works in the hotel. There was no another hotel in the kibbutz obviously and we just found her via staff)))) In the end we didn't spend much time together because job took most of her time. For the first night she just gave us her room, replied our questions about her life, left very nice impression on me like being a free and happy person and also just left a house where she let us stay! 

Breakfast in the kibbtz:)

Next day we were lucky again to hitch a car straight from the kibbutz (even though we were moving in the wrong direction towards the exit from it :D). Our goal was Ein Gedi national park to see some waterfalls and springs and to hike.

The entrance price was the same as for Masada - 29 NIS. Well, it is a very nice place for sure but with crowds of tourists. I would say I enjoyed the process of hiking and being with guys there and taking pictures more than the nature around. I mean it's worth to visit but there was nothing that surprised me.

Hm, maybe I should swim up in a cold spring like guys did :))) Next time. At some point we reached a nice spot on the top of a mount. Here's the view from there:

But what was really nice about En Gedi is that after the hottest hours animals showed up; so cute and fast running around the slopes! Some of them, looking like huge bears with good camera's enlargement, went on the trees and made people really curios.

After leaving the park we went to a beach by the Dead sea. Maybe it was one of the most strangest moments of this trip for me. Even though it wasn't super cold when I left Moscow, it was still much warmer in the desert. I have never travelled to hot spots in winter. But it was time to put bikini on and float! Yes, to float and not to swim))) Many times I've been corrected when used the word "to swim". I'd heard plenty of stories and seen a lot of pictures of people on the surface of the Dead sea before. No doubt, your own experience is best of all!

Water was disgustingly salty, strangely oily and stunningly blue. I had an interesting feeling when I could literally stand in the water and it was really hard to swim. 

We reached the kibbutz when it was dark. After dinner Aron and me decided to take advantage of warm weather and peaceful environment and put his tent outside the kibbutz. And I got a chance to use all the items of the tourist equpment I had. So, we were in the desert but it wasn't wild. We dreamed about star sky since planning the trip and enjoyed it for some time before sleeping. Not sure about exact temperature but guess it was around +13 +15. It got pretty windy at night and as long as I'm always colder than anybody else, I had to put a wool cardigan on even though I was in a sleeping bag, all after that was ok. A matt was very comfortable even though it's not very thick and the ground wasn't too soft. I slept good till the morning and nothing disturbed me besides this case of being a little bit cold once.

In the morning we enjoyed extremely hot weather, sunshine and our long shadows and came back to our place.

We had some time relaxing and chilling out on the terrace. 

Then we grabbed our staff and hitchhiked to the Dead sea (what was easy again) to have the last float. 

This time we found blue mud that people spread on themselves. Sure! WE DID, TOO! And a funny pic with my backpack :D

When this beach party was over we needed to hitchhike to Jerusalem. It was unexpectedly easy! We got a direct right with a lovely middle aged couple of Russian origin. When a lady knew I'm Russian it was hard to redirect her talks to English. i guess she really enjoyed our chat in Russian))) Her husband barely spoke Russian or English even being Russian himself, too. They dropped us in the area very close a nice hostel and as we found out a little bit later our both hosts were living in the same area. So lucky again! But we also had to say good bye to warm Ein Gedi and the Dead sea area because Jerusalem is one of the 3 cities located at the high altitude in the country! I guess it was by 10 degress less there than by the Dead sea when we got out of a car.

[danicalifo]

New Year’s eve party was great! We went to some night club that was pretty crowded. But this crowd was funny and not posh - all I like when party. And music was really shaking. So, we danced several hours there.

Then we woke up around 7:30 to take a bus to Ein Gedi because Nienke got a reply from the kibbutz Ein Gedi. Cool! When we reached this huge Central bus station we found out the direct bus to that area leaves from another station and sure by that moment we had already missed it. Then we decided to take a bus to Jerusalem, don’t remember the price now. Then we cought next bus which also was expensive, around 40 NIS. And I started feeling like if we continue our exploration the same way I run out of money sooner as I thought. On the way to Ein Gedi we got to know the bus went to Masada and we just stayed inside till the last stop (without paying extra money).

I forgot my student ID at home and paid full price which was ok anyway - 29 NIS, Nienke paid 23 NIS as a student. Unlike food prices entrance fees to national parks of Israel are very reasonable! I’d even say they are low.

Besides being one of the top tourist attractions of Israel Masada has astonishing history. It was initially built and developed by Herod the Great for his family. Later it became the last stronghold of Jewish rebels against the Roman conquerors. Around 1000 people decided to save their freedom and commit suiside in this castle to not let the Romans turn them into slaves. It happened after 3 year siege of Masada.

Now to get on top you don’t need to fight. You can either take a snake path (ascent took us around 1h) or a cable way what costs more. The views from the top are amazing: the Dead sea is from one side, sandy mountains are from another. Birds flew over the castle sometimes and I probably took 10 pictures to have one of the birds on it in the end. I came down to the valley with shaking knees what obviously said about overload but it was ok, nothing hurt later.

As far as we really didn’t consider bus prices very friendly we decided to hitchhike. In the beginning I didn’t believe that 3 people with a backpack each could get a lift. But…… A miracle! It was a miracle in the holy land that happened to us several times later:) In 5 minutes we got a car with nice people. A driver was a lady, she thought together with us where “her backpackers” could eat and stay))) That day she met her son coming back after the army. She dropped us in kibbutz Ein Gedi where we stayed next 2 nights.

[danicalifo]

Straight after we landed in Tel Aviv we went to the central bus station. We wanted to take a train from an airport but it didnt operate and we had to take buses with 1 change. I was scared by my host Uri that the bus terminal in Tel Aviv is a mess. So, it was even a good point that in the end a bus brought me straight to the 6th floor of the station and I needed to go up only a floor to catch next bus - to Tiberias.

It took me 42 NIS and 2,5 h to get to Tiberias where Uri picked me up and we drove to a kibbutz Ha’on that became my home for next 2 days.

He said he was surprised I managed to come just after arrival. Yeah, sure I didn’t feel super comfortably because it was all pretty late already. I got off the almost empty bus at 10:30pm and felt like a lonely Russian soul on the platform. It was obvious that the foggy city already slept. And when I met cheerful Uri with very active Kaza, his dog, I felt great relief.

We spoke a lot till late night asking very different questions. Uri is half Russian (but he doesnt speak Russian though), so he was curious about it. He has never visited this country, so I hope in the end he got enough start planning it! He was very surprised by some facts about me like being russian and sure, one of them is that I don’t like getting drunk much :D Maybe he even was a bit disappointed, he didn’t say. :D

Next morning the weather wasn’t really good but we still had some plans. We woke up to visit birdwatching spots. When we got out of his car i felt strong smell of some nice substance. It belonged to euqaliptus trees! The first time i saw and smelled it. They’re so huuuuge in comparison with me! We actually didn’t see much of them. Instead Uri showed me a hidden spot where the border used to be and now it has almost completely destroyed old Syrian houses. One house was occupied by people recently. It looked strange for me: there’s nothing and nobody closeby, just silence and nature. I’d never stayed in such a place for long time!

Then we drove to the North shore of the Kinneret. Beautiful Golan Heights! We hiked some spot. All the way I couldn’t stop watching the opposite slope. It looked like skin of a magic animal and I just wanted to stretch my hand for it and stroke gently. Soooo soft. We also passed clementine and lemon plantations. It looks amazing! So fresh colors. And sure, we didn’t behave :D Took a couple of clementines, they were very sweet!

After we came back to the kibbutz Uri’s friend, Omri, dropped on to talk. We ended up at his place sharing a long talk, listening to Uri playing saxophone. It was fun! So easy-going and nice people. We spoke much about being a world-inside kind of traveller. I wish I could wish more people like that to make myself moving in a desired direction with day-to-day life destruction. But sure, everyone needs to start from onelself. No one helps you till you really want.

Ok, if to skip this melancholically part we went out to a bar later to try local beer. It was Gold Star, sure. I think that point became the last that let me finally realize I’m in the expensive country. In the afternoon when we bought food for the day trip I noticed bananas are 2 times more expensive than in Russia, dairy products are the same… A pint of beer was at the same price level like some European beer in a Moscow pub (27 NIS). And Israeli also leave good tips, oh. But at least unfiltered Gold Star was nice. And in the middle of another deep conversation a crowd of Americans appeared in the bar. They started talking to us and got surprised to meet such a duet. After first “shock” was gone we unexpectedly started dancing! Monday night! It was cool and Uri is a really cool dancer!

Next morning the weather was so perfect! I used this to look around the kibbutz because before I actually didn’t. I got totally and to the end excited by the way people live there! First, what is noticeable is surroundings. The kibbutz Ha’on is located just on the Kinneret shore, you can walk straight from your home to a lovely beach. And from Uri’s place I could see Golan heights through a window. But anyway if it’s impossible in some house the view is easily reachable by stepping out of your walls! In the kibbutz 99% of people know each other, everybody greets and smiles to you. The atmosphere is very light and relaxed. If you don’t have a car you go to the closest bus stop and there’s an extremely high possibility to be picked up by the kibbutz inhabitant! Many people have pets and they play with each other around the place wherever they wish. If you need something you can easily borrow that from a neighbor and it’s nice if you’re ready to help sincerely next time. And almost nobody lock doors! That all shows people’s attitude to each other. Omri said that mostly students and hippies live there. Yeah, that’s true but when I walked in the kibbutz I also saw plenty of family houses. It must be such awesome place to bring up children!

After we went to eat hummus together with Omri and his friend. It was the first time in my life I tried it! And yeah, I loved it! It was in another kibbutz and a cafe is set up right there. This one was bigger than Ha’on obviously. The guys new the staff of the cafe and I felt I was eating something made by real Israeli for Israeli.

Then we spent some time at the Omri’s friend’s place and then hitchhiked (with the help of kibuutz’s members solidarity) to Ha’on. Last minutes in that sweet place we spent by the Kinneret on the sunny spot with Omri and later with Uri. That’s a pity it that short time. I wish I could stay there longer but I also knew I was going to cross the whole country with guys who were in Tel Aviv and New Year’s eve was coming… So, I didn’t cry! :D

After lovely goodbye wishes Uri accompanied me to a bus stop where I was picked up by a Russian Israeli kibbutz inhabitant Alex. You see! It works!

[danicalifo]

Coming to Istanbul was pretty stressful because I needed to wait in a long line for passport control first (even though I don't need a visa for Turkey) and to ask for help to find my luggage. Finally I took it from the bent with the luggage from Sarajevo :D Anyway it's already good I didn't stay in the airport for the whole night for that. And we finally met with Aron in around 1.5h after my arrival. It was the start of the night, so we didn't go out and just slept. Aron worked on a plan for a next day pretty good and we had to wake up to take a free walking tour. Well, it was nice and a guide was funny but I used to visit more interesting ones before. Before I headed to Istanbul I tried to understand how big it is and red in wiki about 6 mln population. But in the plane I was finally convinced its bigger than Moscow by 3 mln. And sure, it's a huge city with massive pieces of architecture around it. But what I know now is I like it. The city of colors, sea and cats. And that makes me dream even more about central Asian churches all covered by tiles. There's something in these oriental ornaments that can be found everywhere in the city: walls, ceilings, ground. Istanbul is a busy huge capital city with developed transport system. I didn't actually get to know how it works here because Aron just gave me a card from a host. But it was very convenient because it works for everything including a ferry that we took once in the evening. Ok, if to come back, we definitely walked around beautiful places. I've been to 2 mosques. One was pretty touristic and full of people like us - with cameras, the second mosque was so quiet, peaceful and local. Smaller than the first one but way nicer. I also tried street food there - baruk and baked chestnuts. The former I liked more))) On the Grand Bazaar I wanted to buy pomergranate tea but it was VERY expensive! Oh but smelled so good. To satisfy myself I bought a glass of fresh pomergranate juice for 3 liras. It's so cheap! You'll never get this drink in Russia for that price! I got pretty much attention there by the way)))) Market sellers just always asked where you're from if you asked them about smth. And after they heard I'm from Russia they just start speak good Russian or list the words they know! I can't say I was surprised (many Russians come to Turkey) but I can't say I wasn't surprised either. It made us laugh pretty a lot. Istanbul became my first Mediterranean city! In the evening we went by the sea. It was sunset time and we enjoyed the view for some time. And met next Turkish cats, sea cats! There're plenty of them in the city, maybe they will conquer it one day. We came back to Blue mosque after and it became dark already. We caught the moment of a mess starting when the whole city I guess hear a song styled speech from speakers. And you lift your head up, watch the sky and birds flying around in twilights and the wind cool you down. Beautiful! Then we went to a nice cafe what Aron had been to. It takes place in a hotel and its ceiling is covered with glass lamps that's really like. In the afternoon we dropped on the shop with handmade glass lamps. The owner didn't allowed to take pictures of them but I promised to come back for them when I become a rich Russian (who usually buys them he said) because they are awesome. Next day we went to an airport to take a plane to Tel Aviv. There we had time to adjust a backpack to me because Aron is an expert in this question. So, now Icahn really say I'm grateful I got it! It's super comfortable and I just don't feel almost 11 kg I have over shoulders! Perfect!

[danicalifo]

It should be quite obvious from the last post where I'm going next. Main destination is Israel, right. Main because isn't the only, i'll stay in Istanbul for a couple of days before my feet reach the holy land. As usually I'm gonna couchsurf to meet nice people, feel cultures deeper and get brighter emotions. This time I can't call it "on my own" trip because I'm actually just reunite with Aron for time on his travel way. Ok, now I'm sitting in the railway station's hall waiting for a train to take me to an airport. After pretty tough time I had before heading to this trip I feel tired and stressed. I've got some annoying seed inside me and seems like can't relax and be happy. This time there were things I organized well and luckily well and things that I can't control at the moment. First, while learning about the main destination and gathering information I found a lot of gorgeous and attractive places. I sincerely didn't expect that from this country. So, from some point I really became eager to go there! What are these places you'll know next ;) We discussed and decided to camp for a couple of nights maybe, in a desert. But I needed to find my own camping equipment this time. As long as I didn't have money to buy it I used the power of the social media. And it worked! And this time worked unpredictedly cool! Tourist equipment distributing company contacted me and offered to test their stuff! One of the best New Year presents I got this year maybe :D My lucky star, thanks a lot! I made a conclusion I was a good girl this year. Couchsurfing planning didn't go that smooth on the contrast. On the other hand I manage to find hosts in low dense populated areas. Whereas we've got problems with hosts in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, strange. Hope we'll cope successfully with that. Weather forecasts for Israeli areas changed several times. In the beginning I checked average monthly temperatures and they seemed to me quite high. (I've never spent winter in a warm country). Then I checked it again and saw temperatures lower. Okay... Started thinking about my outfit. Also I got worried because of that snow falls in the whole Middle East. Great news, uh huh! So, finally I don't have a winter jacket and winter boots with me. I tried to pack smart. Took two pairs of jeans, shoes (that i still had to buy) and two warm pieces of knitwear. As usually there are lots of socks and basic cotton stuff. Not much. But my backpack is heavy(((((( I'm pissed off by that all I had with me for the 2 month trip weighed lighter that what I took now for a half month trip. Well, I really look forward to use tourist stuff at least once to don't regret all I undertook. And I pray for weather would be one of the helper! Despite being not that obviously happy at the moment, living some difficult points of the life for last month and thinking about lack of sleep I have and will get tonight I look forward to meet my friend! I hope we'll keep on having fun together! Bon voyage!

[danicalifo]

Ad on CS

I've just got an advertising voucher from a pub for a free pint of beer for me and my host. My public requests are published for Israel. I don't mind it and in this case I even think it's quite nice. Even though I already think I won't go to Haifa everything can still change several times. Plans are very flexible.

So... yeah, I don't mind ad on CS if its content gonna be relevant for me and not like endless spam. Actually I think CS has huge potential for smart targeting but it's non-commercial company (if I'm not mistaken). If offers from ads bring me real benefits while travelling or in a local place, why should I mind them? Are here some other opinions?

[aron285]

[danicalifo]

#generosity #dream #daretodream We went to his house, a very poor family. No jobs, no nothing. However, they tried anything possible to make me feel at home. His mother is just an angel, so positive and smiling! 
Dardan is an intelligent guy with a great opinion about religion and life in general. Amazing how they cope with life, without having a lot! 
Dardan has two brothers and three sisters, all not married yet. Because his father wants children really badly, he puts a lot of pressure on his children to get married. If each one of them isn’t married within a few years, he is gonna put them on the street, without anything.
Well, Dardan doesn’t want to give away his freedom, so he will try to live on his own. He couldn’t go to university, because he didn’t have the money. Now he is selling bracelets. 
Before continuing with work, he wants to travel. He didn’t have any proper shoes, so I bought him a pair. I gave him my second camera, a map and some socks. He has the rest of the necessary stuff, so he’s ready now! He will have to travel real cheap and sell bracelets on the way, but it is possible! :)

[danicalifo]

#greetings #homecoming from my #flatmate 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8a4iiOnzsc

[danicalifo]

Not the last

My friends who also were travelling for some time around usually create a finall post on Fb. 2 weeks later after I came back I decided to follow main stream in the blog.  I made this collage in the train to Moscow. There're hitchhiking signs that we used, postcards bought for myself (I sent postcards to some of my friends and family), tickets to museums and churches' towers and some notes from my friends I had got before I left for a trip. It doesn't contain even a half of all memories I have in my head or put here, in the blog, on my way. 

Russian and other friends ask me how was it? It was just AWESOME. I don't remember missing much everything I left here or thinking about whole past life. Yes, there were several moment when I was tired. But then just relax! Take a day off, don't do much sightseeing, don't talk to many new people, don't be very active. You'll see, next day you'll be fine again. It's normal to be exhausted while you travel.  Another thing I understand is that I don't like rush trips anymore. I like the rythm I had but still... sometimes felt like staying longer for a couple of days. Anyway if you travel to mark a point in your head or hunt check-in's, yes, be in rush. I won't.  A bit about rational details. I liked the way I packed myself. In my small suitcase (that experienced hitchhiking) I put everything I needed: not more, not less. A great thing I took 2 pairs of jeans - one was strechy and comfortable for moving around and for camping to sleep in, another was very skinny and nice for walking. And don't forget many socks!

If you don't have an often opportunity to do laundry... You understand what I mean :D Yep, a pair of fur and warm socks won't be too much even summer. I used them not only for cold nights camping but also in a bus with working air conditioning. After 2 hours on the way your naked feet don't feel comfortable. Very important to get ready for rainy days of your trip.

I had а plastic raincoat for 3 euros, small rubber shoes and a plastic bag for my suitcase. Sure, having all that stuff on I looked extremely sexy but trust me it's worth to save your health, and since energy and money. The last but not the least, I had my sleeping kit: an inflatable pillow, a sleeping mask and earplugs.

And yes, I also had a sleeping bag and a tent sometimes thanks to nice guys! :D Oh... I remember when I was younger I couldn't sleep in buses at all because everything disturbed me: people talking, engine working, music playing, sun shining, seat being uncomfortable. Now I had problems on the road only being sick while moving along the curvy sea coast. So, if you use buses much take some lollipops! But this kit is also handy when you do couchsurfing or your hostel roommates talk and use light. Everyone is happy: you sleep, they chat.  Also the lesson I've got is to don't plan much in advance. Very often everything changes after you walk out and meet somebody or see or know something on the way. You can always can find a place to stay if you have at least some money, no mondatory need to book. You can even stay for free at a hostel if you're nice enough. I'm not speaking about CS now. I planed step by step but still made mistakes sometimes.  Use your tongue, head and internet. The tongue is handy for everything reffered to social activity and in urgent situations. Most of the people are helpful and you can even make friends with them this way. Head is nice for planning and handy to don't fall in panic. It can be used in many cases, yeah. Internet is good for time saving. If you need advice or tips about an area you're in, there're plenty of travelling social networks now ready to help. If you don't want to walk to a bus or train station when you need a ticket, having a gadget is.... cool.  Finally, I want to add that I was madly glad to meet all the people on this way. I'm sure, guys, with some of you we'll meet some day again, others will be a part of one of the greatest stories of my life!!! I remember every one of you. I'm sure all of you helped to make my trip unique and uforgettable. I'm especially grateful to all people who hosted me, who were kind to me letting feel like at home or like at shelter; to all drivers who gave us lifts in Croatia; and sure, to my darlings, my fellow-travellers who became my friends.  I love those times! And already plan the next trip... ;) Keep follow.