June 25, 2012: Morning Along The Way of Saint James - between Hospital de Orbigo and Astorga, Spain.
Life on “The Way” is very different than life at home. Here is the breakdown of an average day, June 25, 2012.
6:00 AM – Woke up tired from the fireworks last night. They began around 10:00 PM (lights out), and continued until 12:45 AM. I couldn’t sleep, so I went to the courtyard to watch them. I couldn’t see them from the courtyard, so I tried to go outside to see them, but the main door was locked.
6:30 AM – Got on my way early today, but had to turn around because I accidentally left a few items of laundry on the drying rack back at the Albergue.
8:00 AM – Stopped for breakfast in Santibanez de Valdeiglesia, where I happen to meet up with two friends (a mother and son travelling together). I ordered an espresso and an egg sandwich (bocadillla), and although they were ready to start walking, they both decided to order bocadillas and join me.
9:30 AM – I am walking alone. The landscape is relatively flat, and one can see the mountains in the distance. The day is growing warmer, and there are few trees for shade. I took a photograph of the Camino de Santiago and a beautiful lone tree with the mountains in the background.
11:00 AM – Came across the Cruceiro de Santo Toribio, a beautiful cross erected on a hill above the town of Astorga.
12:00 PM – Lunch in Astorga, where I ran into another good friend in the main plaza, Plaza Mayor. I was sure that he was a day’s walk ahead of me by now, so I was very pleased to see him. We had coffee outside, took our shoes off, and I ate my leftover bocadilla from breakfast. We took some time to sightsee in Astorga. We saw the lion monument, the Gaudi Palace, and the Santa Marta Cathedral.
2:30 PM – Left my friend in Santa Catalina de Somoza, were he was staying for the night. I continued on alone. There is a feeling of change as I am coming upon the foothills, but it is still very hot.
4:00 PM – Have been pondering one of my greatest personal struggles, and I think I’m beginning to understand my next step. I’m letting a particular dream go, and it’s giving me some relief. Was given an idea about creating a coffee-table book on the Camino. I wonder if one already exists?
5:30 PM – Made it to the Gaucelmo Albergue, administered by a London Confraternity, where I will stay tonight. When I arrived, the hosts “fought” over who would get to check me in. Another friend of mine is staying here as well. I unpacked, showered, and washed my clothes. She and I made a quick pasta dinner together, and a fellow pilgrim gave us some red wine so that our meal was complete. Met a young couple who are walking El Camino de Santiago for their honeymoon.
7:00 PM – Gregorian chant and Vespers offered at the monastery next door, San Salvador del Monte Irago. One of the things they chanted was Psalm 32 “From where he sits enthroned he watches all the inhabitants of earth.” The chanting is monotone, and I begin to wonder whether God gets bored watching us.
8:00 PM – Called my husband via Skype. It took a few tries, but the video phone finally began to work. I told him about my revelations early that day and broke down into tears – about the dream that I am letting go. I lost the connection and quickly dried my tears just as my friend from dinner walked up. We chatted and a few moments later, another friend (the son travelling with his mother) found us. He offered us a few beers back at the Albergue where he was staying for the night.
9:45 PM – Finished up our beer and headed back to our Albergue before lights out at 10:00 PM.