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Hi! Found your blog searching the Camino on tumblr. I love your writing style! Was blessed to walk a mere 9 mi on the Camino, Samos-Sarria, in Aug 2011, on a pilgrimage to World Youth Day in Madrid & Santiago, the rest by bus, shamefully ha. Staying a week in a Monastery on retreat in Samos, I met many pilgrims. Something so similar about each one, yet so distinct. Maybe you see that too? I think of this incredible trip daily. Prayers for less blisters and strong wine. Bueno camino e ultreya! :)

Thank you so much for your kind words. I know what you mean about meeting pilgrims, and the quality we all seem to share. It takes a special person to commit to such an adventure. I think that you would really enjoy the experience. Today is the one year anniversary of the day I started in St. Jean Pied-du-Port. And I can honestly say that I still consider myself to be "On Pilgrimage."Take Care James! Buen Camino!

July 1, 2012: Symbol of a Pilgrim - Carved Scallop Shell on Stone Camino de Santiago Marker - near Arco O Pino, Spain.

A tear began to form in my eye as I walked slowly and painfully across the modern bridge that would carry me over the last highway before reaching Santiago. I was in the suburbs of the city and it was busy and alive with people, none of which who seemed to notice me.

It had been a long day of trials and errors, and of lessons. In the morning, I was hopeful to reach Santiago by evening, but had lost the trail early on, wasting almost an hour. I was not completely well after having eaten some food that didn't agree with me, so I was moving slower than usual, and making more stops. By pushing myself to get to Santiago faster, I had outpaced my pilgrim friends, and now spent much time walking alone. Having then walked through tall beautiful groves of Eucalyptus trees and their re-energizing scent, my mood had been elevated. I kept crossing paths with a pilgrim I had met a few days before, and it felt good to see a familiar face. However, as I made my way closer to the modern city of Santiago, the scenery became increasingly mundane.

I knew that this was all part of The Way of Saint James, but I was confused by my alternating feelings of happiness, dissappointment, hope, anticipation, and pride. I was happy that I had made it this far, that I would see the famous Catedral de Santiago de Compostela soon, and have my Compostela. I was even happier that I was this much closer to going home to my family. I was dissappointed that the experience had not ignited a religious ferver in me, and that elements of the culture (particularly the food) were not what I hoped they would be. I was struggling with hope before this journey, and now with new insights and decisions, my hope had returned. My anticipation about the Cathedral, the Pilgrim's service there, and walking into the Atlntic Ocean at Finnesterre was intense. And I was very proud of myself for accepting the challenge of this journey, being open to new experiences, and taking very good care of myself both physically and emotionally.

I stepped off of the bridge, onto the sidewalk which would lead me deep into the old city of Santiago - to the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela, the relics of Saint James, and the end of a pilgrimage. The tear rolled from my eye, others quickly followed... and I began to weep.

#Arco O Pino #Camino de Santiago #Santiago #The Pilgrimage #The Way of Saint James #camino #pilgrim #pilgrimage #scallop #shell #spain #symbol #the way #Catedral de Santiago de Compostela

June 30, 2012: A Pilgrim's Gift - west of Portomarin, Spain.

As though to remind you that you're not alone, the Camino de Santiago is decorated and improved by pilgrims all along its path.

Arrows made of pinecones, wood, stones, bark, and almost any material you can imagine are poised along the trail. Arrows are carved into dirt paths, mud, and stone; and are painted on houses, barns, rocks, signs, even embankments. Messages are left on strips of paper torn from precious journals and diaries. Inspirational poems and phrases are written out on signposts and painted along tunnels and bridge supports. Ancient crosses are decorated with momentos and memories, wildflowers, fresh greens, and even pictures of loved ones. New crosses made of sticks are woven into fencing, tied together with string, carved into trees, and are purposefully placed along the way. Stones and rocks are carefully piled at intersections to show the way; and sometimes are created in homage to the pilgrimage itself. Carefully placed stones create huge murals and designs on hill tops, and artists decorate signs and bridge supports with powerful messages. All this in addition to the art, markers, and messages left by the ancient pilgrims in the form of churches, bridges, Roman highways, crosses, monuments, and the Way itself.

The prayers of the Camino are everywhere.

#Camino de Santiago #Santiago #The Pilgrimage #The Way of Saint James #camino #pilgrim #pilgrimage #the way #Portomarin #arrows #stones #arrow #message #prayer #marker #church #art

June 29, 2012: Galicia Countryside at Dawn - near Triacastela, Spain.

In the middle of night, in an Albergue in the middle of nowhere, I woke up with bed bug bites all over my right arm. I never saw the culprits, but the bites were large and extremely itchy. So large that my arm was disfigured with puffy red welts for a few days.

I managed to survive the night, but was the first one out of bed and back on the Camino the next morning. At 6:00 am, it was difficult to find the yellow markers, even with my headlamp. It was very cold and very damp. I was miserable, but I pushed on.

My mind was racing with each step. I was struggling to find the markers, I was afraid to become lost, I was afraid that the bed bugs had infested my sleeping bag, clothes, and backpack. I thought "Why the _____ am I here? I have a warm, safe bed; with a loving husband; healthy food; safety and protection; clean clothes; and a snuggly cat... all at home waiting for me. What am I doing here?"

#pilgrim #pilgrimage #the way #The Way of Saint James #Camino de Santiago #camino #Triacastela #Galicia #Spain

June 28, 2012: On The Way To O'Cebreiro - Fountain in La Faba, Spain.

As we hiked our way toward to top of O'Cebreiro (the mountain on which the earliest surviving church on the Camino de Santiago is located), a fellow pilgrim asked me simply "What is my ideal when I get back?"

You might think that this was the question I had been pondering the entire Way, but it completely struck me off-guard. The question was so simple, so perfect, so to-the point - it ended up becoming a turning-point for me in my journey.

All these kilometers I had walked... all the pilgrims I met.... all the spiritual studying... all the conversations home to my husband.... not until THIS moment, with THIS pilgrim who I had just met, did I finally find the question which I was looking to answer.

Paulo Coehlo's book "The Pilgrimage" ends on top of O'Cebreiro, where the main character finally discovers the right question to ask himself. It gives me chills to write that I also found the right question while hiking up the mountain O'Cebreiro.

#La Faba #O'Cebreiro #spain #the way #The Pilgrimage #The Way of Saint James #Camino de Santiago #camino #pilgrim #pilgrimage

June 27, 2012: Pilgrims Walking Through Town - Villafranca del Bierzo, Spain.

As I walked through the picturesque town known as Villafrance del Bierzo, I was surprised to find that I did not wish to stop. Throughout my time on the Camino de Santiago, I was always interested in the sights and history that each village, town, or city offered. Here was an 11th century town, idyllic in its location on the rio Burbia, well kept, and filled with historic churches and sites... and I wanted to walk right through.

Walk right through is exactly what I did.

Why? I'm still not sure. It was a very hot day and I was not feeling well, or maybe I had just absorbed all of the churches and history I could handle, or maybe I was rushing to get to Santiago. I'm not sure of the reason why, but I do know that I followed my intuition, and I do not regret passing through this town. Perhaps I needed to save something for the next time I follow the Way of Saint James.

All I can say for sure is that during my entire Camino experience, my intuition never let me down. Trust your intuition. Especially when you're OnPilgrimage!

June 26, 2012: Mystery of the Knights Templar Castle - Ponferrada, Spain.

For almost 2,000 years during the Middle Ages, the Knights Templar, or the "Knights of the Temple" existed as a Christian military order with the purpose of protecting Christian pilgrims. At the height of their popularity, they enrolled 15,000 to 20,000 members, most of whom were not knights, but who administered their powerful financial infrastructure and network of fortresses. About 10% of the members were Templar Knights, and these brave men were known throughout Europe for their elite combat skills.

The Castle of Ponferrada, or Castillo de los Templarios, is a well preserved example of a Templar castle. The oldest portion of the castle is the Templar wall which encircles the entire structure, and dates back to the 12th century. Ownership of the castle passed to various nobles, who added additional walls, towers, and palaces throughout the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries.

The Order of the Knights Templar existed from 1119 to 1312, when they were abruptly disbanded by the Pope. To this day, legends and speculation about the Knights Templar still circulate, and this castle stands as a testament to their existence.

June 25, 2012: Morning Along The Way of Saint James - between Hospital de Orbigo and Astorga, Spain.

Life on “The Way” is very different than life at home. Here is the breakdown of an average day, June 25, 2012.

6:00 AM – Woke up tired from the fireworks last night. They began around 10:00 PM (lights out), and continued until 12:45 AM. I couldn’t sleep, so I went to the courtyard to watch them. I couldn’t see them from the courtyard, so I tried to go outside to see them, but the main door was locked.

6:30 AM – Got on my way early today, but had to turn around because I accidentally left a few items of laundry on the drying rack back at the Albergue.

8:00 AM – Stopped for breakfast in Santibanez de Valdeiglesia, where I happen to meet up with two friends (a mother and son travelling together). I ordered an espresso and an egg sandwich (bocadillla), and although they were ready to start walking, they both decided to order bocadillas and join me.

9:30 AM – I am walking alone. The landscape is relatively flat, and one can see the mountains in the distance. The day is growing warmer, and there are few trees for shade. I took a photograph of the Camino de Santiago and a beautiful lone tree with the mountains in the background.

11:00 AM – Came across the Cruceiro de Santo Toribio, a beautiful cross erected on a hill above the town of Astorga.

12:00 PM – Lunch in Astorga, where I ran into another good friend in the main plaza, Plaza Mayor. I was sure that he was a day’s walk ahead of me by now, so I was very pleased to see him. We had coffee outside, took our shoes off, and I ate my leftover bocadilla from breakfast. We took some time to sightsee in Astorga. We saw the lion monument, the Gaudi Palace, and the Santa Marta Cathedral.

2:30 PM – Left my friend in Santa Catalina de Somoza, were he was staying for the night. I continued on alone. There is a feeling of change as I am coming upon the foothills, but it is still very hot.

4:00 PM – Have been pondering one of my greatest personal struggles, and I think I’m beginning to understand my next step. I’m letting a particular dream go, and it’s giving me some relief. Was given an idea about creating a coffee-table book on the Camino. I wonder if one already exists?

5:30 PM – Made it to the Gaucelmo Albergue, administered by a London Confraternity, where I will stay tonight. When I arrived, the hosts “fought” over who would get to check me in. Another friend of mine is staying here as well. I unpacked, showered, and washed my clothes. She and I made a quick pasta dinner together, and a fellow pilgrim gave us some red wine so that our meal was complete. Met a young couple who are walking El Camino de Santiago for their honeymoon.

7:00 PM – Gregorian chant and Vespers offered at the monastery next door, San Salvador del Monte Irago. One of the things they chanted was Psalm 32 “From where he sits enthroned he watches all the inhabitants of earth.” The chanting is monotone, and I begin to wonder whether God gets bored watching us.

8:00 PM – Called my husband via Skype. It took a few tries, but the video phone finally began to work. I told him about my revelations early that day and broke down into tears – about the dream that I am letting go. I lost the connection and quickly dried my tears just as my friend from dinner walked up. We chatted and a few moments later, another friend (the son travelling with his mother) found us. He offered us a few beers back at the Albergue where he was staying for the night.

9:45 PM – Finished up our beer and headed back to our Albergue before lights out at 10:00 PM.

#the way #The Way of Saint James #The Pilgrimage #pilgrim #pilgrimage #Camino de Santiago #camino #Hospital de orbigo #spain #Astorga

Hi there! I'm so glad I found your blog! I want to do the way when I graduate from high school in two years. Did you do the pilgrimage alone? I would love to go by myself but I've never traveled alone. Do you have any tips for me? I have two years to plan and I'm daydreaming about it already. Thanks!

Greetings!

I'm glad that you found my blog, too. I did travel alone, and I feel that my experience was enhanced as a result.

It's wonderful that you have so much time to plan. I had only a few weeks to get my travel logistics and gear all worked out. There are two things I would recommend.

First, that you begin learning Spanish. You don't need to know the language to survive the Camino, but knowing it will open you to opportunities to speak with the local people, and with Spanish-speaking pilgrims. My conversations with the locals were some of my favorite parts/lessons of my pilgrimage.

Second, I would recommend that you become a member of REI, if you have one in your area, and begin to take advantage of their sales and coupons. The most expensive items you'll need are a lightweight backpack, lightweight sleeping bag, lightweight shoes, and a great jacket. If you begin to acquire these items now, you will be prepared for the time when the opportunity to walk the Camino de Santiago finally arrives.

Good Luck. Feel free to reach out with more questions. And Buen Camino!

June 24, 2012: Puente de Orbigo - Hospital de Orbigo, Spain.

(If this photograph gives the impression that this is a long bridge, then imagine it even longer - because this photo was taken from the top of the bridge.)

I carefully chose my steps as I proceeded along the historic Roman bridge (walking on cobblestones is not as easy as it looks). Puente de Orbigo crosses the Rio Orbigo, a river that necessitates a much smaller bridge. It was the end of a long, hot day, and the Albergue lay just on the other side. I was remembering Paulo Coelho’s book, The Pilgrimage, and how his stories of this bridge and other points of interest along the Camino de Santiago were my original catalyst for venturing on this pilgrimage.

The stories and legends about this 13th century oversized bridge are particularly colorful. Apparently, a knight from Leon, named Don Suero de Quinones, was in love with a beautiful lady who denied him. With a broken heart, and the desire to restore his honor, he sent out a jousting challenge to any knight who might accept. The jousting tournaments took place on this long, narrow bridge.

My mind wandered to knights and chivalry and whether my husband would be so heartbroken if I did not accept his love. According to the folklore, after winning 300 straight jousts in a row, Don Suero de Quinones proceeded to Santiago to offer thanks that his broken heart and honor were thus restored.

Many believe that Don Suero de Quinones was the inspiration for the popular Spanish novel, Don Quixote.

June 23, 2012: Statute of Pilgrim - Mansilla de las Mulas, Spain.

Late yesterday, as I prepared for a long afternoon hike, I met a prient in a bar and he gave me this peom:

"The Way of Saint James is dust and mud, sun, and rain,

Trod by pilgrims in their thousands for more than a thousand years.

Pilgrim, whose voice is calling you? What hiddeen force leads you on?

Not the stars of the Milky Way, nor the lure of great cathedrals.

It's not the wild heart of Navarre, nor the rich Riojan wines,

nor the shellfish of Galacia, nor the broad Castilian fields.

Pilgrim, whose voice is calling you? What hidden force leads you on?

Not the people on your way, nor the customs of the land.

Not the history or the culture. Not the cock of La Calzada,

nor the palace of Gaudi, nor the castle of Ponferrada.

All this I see with pleasure, and having seen, pass by.

But for me the voice that calls comes, I feel, from deep inside.

The force that drives me on I can never explain or show.

The force that draws me to it only the One above can know."

- Eugenio Baribay

June 22, 2012: 12th Century Roman Bridge at Ermita Virgen del Puente - Sahagun, Spain.

Directly from my journal earlier that morning:

"Lost my way this morning and had to walk directly through the field - laughing and running - what a beautiful day to be alive!

Loving the sunshine, the songs of the birds, the baa-ing of the sheep. Sounds like the goats and sheep are having a good strong debate right now....

I am remembering the shepherd with his flock yesterday afternoon, watching them as they slowly moved over the grassy field, the sun relaxing its position in the sky behind them, and wondering what it must feel like to be a shepherd..."

#12th century #Camino de Santiago #Ermita Virgen del Puente #Sahagun #Santiago #Spain #The Way of Saint James #bridge #camino #pilgrim #pilgrimage #roman #the way #shepherd #lost #way #alive

June 21, 2012: Treasures of the Camino de Santiago, along the Via Aquitana - Caldadilla de la Cueza, Spain.

It was a cool morning as I walked alone along the ancient roman highway, Via Aquitana. The wind was pushing against me, and if not for my sunglasses, I would have been blinded by the dust it carried. On either side of me stretching to the horizon were golden fields of wheat. A misleadingly small range of mountains marked the end of the land against the deep blue sky. The sky was as fertile with soft white clouds as the land was with sheaths of wheat.

And there was nothing more, but the ancient highway beneath my feet, and a few pilgrims in the distance. The closest town was at least a 3 hour walk.

With my next step, a surprisingly beautiful beetle crash landed on my sleeve. Then a yellow-bellied bird flew just in front of me, leading the way as a guide. At the same time, a sudden burst of song developed from the crickets living in the fields around me; and the sky darkened.

Although I could sense some type of change happening, it was all so quick that it felt like a dream. My mind began to race, and then my awareness shifted and I could see myself clearly. Not just myself, but more specifically, what I wasn't. It was as though I could see which parts of me (my character, my morals, my beliefs) were truly me, and which parts were (for lack of better words) my "personal devils."

I learned that these "personal devils" were holding me back by feeding me doubts and negative ideas. They kept me believing that the world has more bad in it than good, that people cannot be trusted, that my backpack is a burden, that I'm not good enough, that I'm not beautiful enough, that I shouldn't appreciate and love myself, that I'm not capable of having a child, that my shyness serves me, that my creative and artistic side must be ignored, and that my reaching my full potential is a waste of time.

I spent a lot of time mulling over these thoughts, and came up with a few conclusions:

1. I am on this pilgrimage to find and overcome/learn to control these personal devils.

2. These devils are NOT ME! Now that I have a clear picture of them, I can remove, absorb, conquer, and/or control them and their negative effects.

3. How? By finishing the Camino and then continuing on to Finisterre. By never forgetting what they look like, and that they are not the true me.

#Caldadilla de la Cueza #Camino de Santiago #Finisterre #Spain #The Way of Saint James #Via Aquitana #camino #devil #personal devil #pilgrim #pilgrimage #the way #treasure

June 20, 2012: Lock Gates at Canal de Castilla - Fromista, Spain.

When the tourist becomes the sight...

It was a comfortable morning as we walked along the modern aqueduct known as Canal Pisuerga. I was enjoying great conversation with a young man from Italy as we approached the Canal de Castilla, when we were interrupted by an older couple.

The Canal de Castilla is an 18th century canal which was built to provide transportation for the local crops, and to provide the power to turn the corn mills. Today, it's 50 locks are no longer working, and the canal is used only for irrigation and leisure purposes. The Camino crosses this canal at the uppermost lock, which forms a narrow bridge.

The older couple were standing outside of a rented car, parked right along the Camino de Santiago. The husband was native to this area of Spain, and his wife was from Germany. They live in Germany, and were here to sightsee and visit his family.

As we approached them, they became excited and started asking us questions about our gear, the journey, and our pilgrimmages. To them (especially the wife), we were "real live pigrims, " and they couldn't wait to take our picture, and to pose in photos with us.

We didn't mind spending a few moments with them, but it was a very strange feeling to be the tourist - the stranger in a foreign land; and yet in another's eyes, I was the sight to be seen.

It's just a matter of perspective...

#18th century #Canal Pisuerga #Canal de Castilla #Fromista #Spain #aqueduct #canal #gate #lock #locks #tour #tourist #Camino de Santiago #camino #the way #The Way of Saint James #pilgrim #pilgrimage

June 19, 2012: Candlelight Dinner at Ermita de San Nicolas - outside of Itero de la Vega, Spain.

Was it worth the risk? It was late in the hot afternoon, and the next Albergue was at least a 2 hour walk, probably longer because we were already exhausted. We could stay here, in Castrojeriz, in the municipal Albergue, or we could take a chance.

Over 9 kilometers away, up a steep incline, across the hot, dusty, windy meseta, then down a dangerous decline, with no trees or vegetation for protection... lay a potential haven for the soul.

This "haven" is an Albergue run by an Italian Confraternity, with only 12 beds. It is called Ermita de San Nicolas, and is positioned away from the nearest town, along the beautiful Rio Pisuerga. The 13th century building was recently restored, leaving out electricity and phones. Unlike most Albergues, dinner and breakfast are provided, and candlelight is the only source of illumination.

My fellow pilgrim and I decided to take the risk, cross the meseta, and hope that 2 of the 12 beds would still be open for us.

This decision ended up being the best risk that I took along the Camino. We arrived late in the day, at around 6:00 pm. Can you believe that they had exactly 2 beds left for us? It seemed as though a higher power was at work. We had just enough time to shower before the nightly rituals began.

First, the hosts annointed and kissed our feet, giving us credit and blessings for the spiritual pilgrimage that we were on. Then we enjoyed a communal dinner by candlelight with lively conversation among at least 3 different langauages. After the filling meal of pasta, salad, vegetables, dessert, and of course, wine, we had some time to watch the rays of sun dance across the clouds as the sun set over the fields of wheat and the Rio Pisuerga.

The evening was worth the physical and mental struggle of the journey there, more than I can ever say. My soul was refreshed, my heart healed, my faith strengthened, my body nourished, and my appreciation expanded. I am forever grateful to my hosts.

June 18, 2012: Carved Image on Marble Tomb at Catedral de Santa Maria - Burgos, Spain.

One of the most common questions I receive is “Why?” “Why would I walk 560 miles? Why go on a pilgrimage? Why take 27 days to cross a country?”

Historically, people decided to travel the Way of St. James for forgiveness from God. It was said that if you travelled to the tomb of St. James, you had completed your penance, and were assured entrance into heaven. In the middle ages, you were likely to encounter thieves, gypsies, and political unrest or even wars on your way to St. James’ resting place at the Cathedral Santiago de Compostela. And don’t forget that the journey home would be just as dangerous.

Now, when the threat of dying en route is drastically reduced, people decide to travel the Camino for many different reasons. Most pilgrims are on pilgrimage for religious and spiritual reasons. Whereas in the Middle Ages, almost all pilgrims were catholic, now pilgrims come from all faiths and backgrounds. I met many catholic pilgrims, but I also met pilgrims of other religious backgrounds. For almost everyone I encountered, and for myself, the spiritual component of the Camino is a common thread (whether you admit it or not).

Pilgrims also travel the Camino for health reasons. Some are seeking a miracle of healing and others just want to get in shape. Many pilgrims are interested in travel and culture - seeing a new land and experiencing a different way of life. Or they love to hike and are finding adventure along the Camino.

I also heard that local people will travel the minimum 100 kilometers to achieve their Compostela, because it looks good on their resume or CV.

I imagine that most pilgrims are travelling the Way of St. James for more than one of these reasons. Some seek an answer, although I believe that many of my fellow pilgrims were actually looking for the right question.

So why did I go on this 560 mile pilgrimage? I can say that I went for religious, spiritual, health, and travel reasons, but that is too general of an answer.

As I prepared for my journey, a whole list of fears began to surface. I was afraid of leaving my husband for a month, afraid of leaving my business, afraid of apologies, afraid that I would have regrets when I die, afraid of never having a child, afraid of playing dumb and not living up to my full potential, afraid that this was a bad decision for my career, and afraid of opening myself up on camera.

Even more doubts, fears, and buried emotions rose up during my progression along the Camino. And I expect that there will always be doubts and fears within me. But after spending a month walking, thinking, and sorting many of them out, I can report that each doubt, fear, and worry now has drastically less influence over my life and my decisions.

I’m still waiting for my miracle, though… to become a mother.

The beginning of the adventure to finding yourself... is to lose your way.

- Phil Cousineau, A Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino de Santiago

#pilgrim #pilgrimage #Camino de Santiago #camino #Phil Cousineau #adventure #the way #The Way of Saint James #guide #A Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino de Santiago

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