Tacos
— Guest post by Gregory Povey, @topfife.
I went to San Francisco for the first time in April and had a taste of ’real’ Mexican food. Food cooked by people from,or culturally part of, Mexico.
A burrito every day - mole, roasted tomatillos - always with the creamiest, cleanest restorative avocados inside.
Salsa, corn chips, ritual.
Apart from tomatoes, the concept of Mexican food is the best. Soft wraps concealing fresh, flavoursome spices, hot chillies, just enough vegetables to not feel horrific afterwards. A real social leveller when eaten in company. It's impossible to have a hierarchy when mole is dripping onto your basket and avocado is smushed on your cheek.
Eating in a Mission taqueria is a total eye-opener compared to the stuffy, uninspired stuff in the UK. British Mexican often feels like food arranged by people who have never tasted the food they are making. There is no love in it. No culture.
I only scratched the surface in the time I was in SF, so I’ve picked up Margarita Carrillo Arronte’s Mexico to broaden my food knowledge.
I came home knowing that I won't find the same quality avocados here, but could address the lifeless tacos available.
Since April I have been experimenting with different approaches to make the ’perfect’ taco. Noting the difference a small shift in flour ratio, flour type, beer make is incredible. Some soft and fluffy, some crispier, some with enough layers to make a latino mille feuille.
When all of this goes to the dogs, I’m opening a taco shop and it will be great. This is my current favourite taco mixture for 25-30 tacos (depending on how big you want them):
FLOURS You should have 550g of flour total - and lots of white flour aside for rolling later on. Try whatever mix you want, adding rye gives a nice nutty flavour but makes stiffer tacos; wholemeal is earthy but takes longer in the pan. You always need a good amount of strong white or it has no strength.
- 100g amarillo masa marina / yellow corn meal (P.A.N. brand is great) - 150g white spelt flour - 300g strong white flour - A healthy teaspoon of fine salt
FAT AND WET - 80g edible oil (I use TREX) - Between 300g and 400g of beer*, depending on how absorbent your flour mixture is. For a 500ml bottle, you’ll have just under a half of beer to drink whilst forming the tacos. * A hoppy pale ale or IPA of about 3.5-4% is ideal. From many experiments, these beers have proven most successful: Ilkley Mary Jane, Weird Beard Little Things That Kill, and Siren Craft Half Mast QIPA.
METHOD - Mix all the flours and salt - Break in the fat, properly integrating it into the flour mix - Gradually add the beer - Hand mix until all the flours are blended in, you have a firm ball that is just shy of being sticky - Cover and leave for 3-4 hours in a warm place - Turn dough** onto a floured surface, gently roll out then form 25-30 balls (approximately the size of a swollen ping pong) - Lightly flatten a ball with the palm of your hand - Applying light pressure - do not press down or force the dough - roll the flattened ball. Turn and flip after every roll to keep a perfect circle. - When it is about 10cm wide / 0.5cm thick, put it aside - Heat a heavy-based pan to a good but not searing heat - Lay the taco in the pan; it should slowly rise and (hopefully) form pockets of bubbles - Flip when it’s colouring - the aim is to keep it soft, but browned ** The dough can dry out if you take too long, so it’s worth doing this in batches
PEPPER SALSA
Liberally coat with olive oil and lightly salt:
- 3 bell peppers cut into quarters (I prefer 2 green, 1 red) - 12 chillies (8 green, 4 red) - 1 Jalapeño pepper (not pickled)
and grill low in the oven and for a long time.
When everything is blackened, bubbled and squealing, destalk the chillies. Pour all into a blender, including the oil, add a teaspoon of agave (or sugar) and juice of half a lime. Blend to a chunky consistency, add coriander at this point or on serving.
Lash a load of the salsa on the taco, whip an avocado and fill with everything you want that is fresh and joyful.









