Prime Rib, Salami + Cheeses, and Steamed Buns with American Paddlefish Caviar
Location: Tres By José Andrés (Beverly Grove)
For the final meal of my friend’s birfday, we hit up this fancy ass brunch from decorated Spanish chef José Andrés, the man who has won James Beard Awards, is credited with introducing tapas to America, and served as a culinary consultant on one of my favorite shows in recent history Hannibal. In addition to the food pictured, there was a lovely dessert buffet with chocolate mousse with fresh seasonal berries or tuile (thin baked wafer). The watermelon agua fresca was made all the better by the birfday girl’s suggestion that I add the sparkling Spanish wine Cava. However, Cava cannot officially live up to its nickname of "Spanish champagne" (though the beverage is still called champán/champaña in Spanish or xampany in Catalan) because champagnechampagne possesses European Union protected geographic status, meaning only the sparkling wine originating from France’s Champagne wine region can legally possess that name.
Prime Rib: Though I usually prefer my beef medium to well done, this decently rare upper back cut was an absolute treat. Beyond the meat basically melting in my mouth, the accompanying au jus gravy + whole-grain mustard only augmented the already stellar steak.
Salami + Cheeses: I could’ve been happy just eating the charcuterie, cheese, and crostini (toasted sliced bread) course. Not really.
Steamed Buns With American Paddlefish Caviar: This was a tough one. When I saw the buns in a bamboo steamer, I immediately thought they were 馒头 (mántou, Chinese steamed bun) like 烧包 (shāobāo) or 奶黄包 (nǎihuángbāo). My disappointment must have been palpable. Just like many TV shows I take chances on, these buns had no substance inside. They were just dense facsimiles masquerading as something tantalizing. The dark eggs felt like an overindulgence on the empty buns, like using Tahitian vanilla in a McDonald’s sundae or foie gras in a Cup Noodles. The caviar did have a briny tang that complemented the blandness of the bread.
The American paddlefish (aka Mississippi paddlefish, spoon-billed cats, and spoonbills) are a species of fish native to the Mississippi River basin closely related to sturgeons (same order but different families) whose roe are harvested for caviar. Since the 1979 enactment of an ever-increasing trade embargo with Iran, highly sought-after supplies of caviar from the Caspian Sea’s beluga sturgeon are limited, with overfishing + poaching further exhausting the supply. Because American paddlefish roe can be processed to become similar in taste, color, size, and texture to Caspian Sea starry/sevruga sturgeon caviar. However, strict state, federal, and even international regulations (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna + Flora, aka CITES or the Washington Convention) severely restrict the harvest of wild American paddlefish and the illegal trafficking of their roe. Beyond overfishing, other factors disrupting American paddlefish populations including habitat destruction (a series of Missouri River dams prevent the paddlefish, who require free-flowing rivers with zooplankton rich areas + gravel bars for spawning, from flourishing + spawning) and zebra mussel infestations that significantly limit food supplies. However, American paddlefish are now being raised in parts of Europe (Austria, Bulgaria, Czech Republic, Germany, Ukraine, and others), China, and Cuba.