intersex & bunch of genders a trench coat 🪻reconnecting Jew & Taino(Ayiti)/BIPoC🪻bigots, ex Christian antitheist, & fans of J.K Rowelling & Kayne West fuck off
I’m a college student facing serious financial difficulties. I’m currently two months behind on rent and struggling to afford basic needs like groceries and bills. My situation has gotten worse and I’m now at a point where I can’t even afford food. It’s been extremely stressful and I urgently need help to get through this tough time. I’m in urgent need of some help right now. Please help in any way possible. Any amount would be very helpful. Please consider helping.
Go to paypal.me/iamsumitshubham and type in the amount. Since it’s PayPal, it's easy and secure. Don’t have a PayPal account? No worries.
Contradictory or unconventional labels? No problem!
Labels exist to help explain your perspectives on life, they're not hard-and-fast rules! If you use labels that seem to be polar opposites, very specific, or "strange" to people, that's so cool of you! Let's talk about it!
M-spec lesbians and gays!
Boygirls and girlboys!
Bigender, polygender, pangender individuals!
Genderfluid people!
Xenogender folks!
The MOGAI/LIOM community!
Agender people who have another gender as well!
Intersex and intergender peeps!
Neurogenders for plurality, such as systemgender and systemfluid!
You're all incredible! Please remember you don't need to justify your experiences or existence to others, it's ok to just be you!
Compulsory sexuality from a Black lense is essential to me. I can never divorce compulsory sexuality from white supremacy when it's one of its tools. It's also hilarious to me how people who consider themselves to be anti racist on here bend over backwards to avoid addressing how white supremacy affects sexuality just as much as gender. White sex favourable people whether they're ace or not have done a 180 on puritanism, that sexuality outside of specific parameters is intrinsically bad and assumed and declared that their sexual attraction and sexual desires are intrinsically progressive and morally good by virtue of being sexual. 180 on puritanism isnt even a fully way to describe this action because under white puritanism, this action is fully accepted. White sexuality has always been equated with purity in a moral sense as well as a physical sense. White sexuality has always been considered intrisically good whether its religious celibacy, sex to produce a white Christian child, sex as duty within a white cis heterosexual relationship, the idea all vaginas and nipples must be and are pink, "flesh coloured" sex toys and objects being light coloured, the idea white performers are the most desirable... it's always been the default.
Black sexuality on the other hand, both of ace and non-ace Black people has always been demonised and shunned. Queer tumblr will boldly declare this is an anti puritanism zone, but continue to create moral panics about rap and hip hop for having the same 'freakiness' they claim to accept. Being a freak comes with terms and conditions. It's an exclusive club. Being a "sexual degenerate", "pervert" and a freak are aesthetics white sex favourable people can take part in for pleasure meanwhile Black people of any sexuality have been killed, targeted and sexualised for these exact same tropes, regardless of how much sex we do or don't take part in. Whilst being assumed to be innocent and sexually infantilised is an inconvenience and an annoyance, it is a form of white privilege Black people don't have access to and a form of privilege white sex favourable people are oblivious to. We can't be uwu soft hand holding beans. We cannot take part in horniness, sexiness and kink and be redeemed by whiteness directly afterwards. Whilst being uwu and fluffy is an inconvience for them, it is a luxury for us.
Under compulsory sexuality, Black asexuality is regressive. It's stereotyping, it's racist for Black people to be asexual simply because sexual attraction and sex are absent or there is very small amounts bc sex is "intrinsic" to the human experience and it's bigoted to say no. But raceplay, slaveplay, BBC, ebony and other Black fetishes are progressive solely because they provide sexual pleasure to the white person who takes part in it, even if the sexual pleasure is rooted in our oppression and dehumanisation.
i really really hate to ask like this cuz I feel pathetic but, I am here to boost my Kofi cuz we run out of food and toiletries really fucking fast, meanwhile my neglectful mothers blows her money(mostly my own) on bullshit we really don't need...
i need help is basically what I'm saying. i feel pathetic that I am disabled and can't work a real job so I have to rely on socials for income/feeding me m the pets cuz I live with people who suck money out of me while treating me terribly. i budget my income so I eat only once a day now. i try to draw so much for my enjoyment and audience but it's genuinely hard to do so when you don't have proper energy.
How to Make Your Own Binder that Fits Well and Looks Good
A while back I was in need of some new binders and thought hey, I bet I can make one way cheaper than buying it from somewhere (especially cus some of the ones I’ve bought in the past didn’t really fit right). Except when I started looking for a binder patterns online, I was very surprised that I really… couldn’t find many that looked very nice lol. Most of them had really wrinkled necklines, or didn't bind well, or just overall looked weird. A lot of the patterns also required a serger, which I don't have.
So I just said fuck it and made my own pattern! And it ended up being relatively easy! And the binders fit REALLY WELL and are comfortable to wear, even for long periods. The neckline doesn't show under shirts with loose collars, and the bottom hem doesn't gap or stick out. Here's me wearing one:
(plus I was able to make myself 5 of them for a total of like ~$50.)
So I figured I could throw together a guide to help out anyone else who wanted to make their own binder but was dissatisfied with the patterns available!
Disclaimer: This tutorial is going to assume a baseline level of sewing experience, and also will require access to a sewing machine. It is not a complicated pattern, but it will most likely require some tweaking and adjustments after you make the first one. Don’t be afraid to make alterations to make it fit better!
This tutorial is for a gc2b-style half-tank binder. It could be altered to be a full-tank binder, but all instructions will be for the half-tank design.
Materials needed:
Stretchy fabric, probably listed as 'athletic fabric' (I use this kind from Joann’s. Most athletic stretch fabrics should work, look for around 80% nylon/20% spandex blends)
Stiff fabric (I use this shirting cotton because I like how lightweight it is. If you want something a little stiffer with more structure, you can use a cotton or cotton/poly blend twill like this. gc2b binders use twill for theirs.)
Lightweight fusible interfacing (I use this kind) (get FUSIBLE not sew-in)
Fusible webbing like Pellon Wonder-Web (this is technically optional but it WILL make your life easier when you’re sewing - just make sure to get the kind with the paper backing!!!)
“But kiwisoap thats 4 whole kinds of materials, surely I don’t need that many!” Ok sure, you can probably get by without the fusible web and interfacing, but consider: they are both dirt cheap (im talking like $1-2/yard), they will make it much easier to sew the final product, and will give you an overall better-looking result. This tutorial is written with the assumption that you’ll use them.
"How much fabric will I need?" Measure the circumference of your chest below your armpits. Add 6 inches just to be safe. This is the yardage of stretch fabric you’ll need, and should give you enough material to make at least 3 binders without much excess left over. You will need around half as much stiff fabric.
Other supplies:
Big Paper (for drawing the pattern)
Flexible measuring tape
Sewing machine
Iron
Pins
Step 1: Measuring
You will need 4 main measurements for this pattern.
A) Measure the circumference of your chest just below your armpits, then divide the number in half. This will be the widest part of the pattern.
B) Measure from the top of your shoulder down to where you want the binder to end. For most folks, this will usually be around the natural waist (narrowest part of the torso), about 3-6 inches above the belly button. This will be the overall height of the pattern.
C) Measure the distance from below your armpit to where you want the binder to end. This will determine where the arm hole starts.
D) Measure the circumference of your waist where you want the binder to end, then divide the number in half.
So for example, after dividing A and D in half, my measurements are 17", 15", 7", and 14.5".
Next:
Subtract one inch from measurement A - This will help provide some compression. You might need to take it in even further depending on how it fits, but one inch is a safe starting point. I take mine in around 1.5 inches.
Subtract half an inch from measurement D. This will help prevent the bottom edge of the binder from gapping. Again, you may need to take it in more or less, depending on your own body.
Add 1.5 inches to measurement B and one inch to measurement C. This is to account for the hems and armhole placement.
This makes my final measurements
A = 16"
B = 16.5"
C = 8"
D = 13.5"
From here on out, we are only going to be working with the measurements that we have added/subtracted to, NOT the ones we initially took.
Step 2: Drawing the Pattern
You will need a piece of paper large enough to accommodate the entire pattern. This may involve taping multiple pieces together, or using a piece of newsprint, etc.
I recommend folding the paper in half to ensure that you get a symmetrical pattern. However, this means you will need to divide measurements A and D in half again, or else you’ll end up with a pattern that’s twice as wide as it should be!
Also note: the pattern is drawn with the seam allowance built in! You don’t need to add any seam allowance.
To draw the pattern:
Begin with your folded paper. Measure and mark B and C on the paper, and draw a line extending across the paper. These will be your guidelines.
Measure and mark A and D along the middle and bottom guidelines, respectively. Remember, the paper is folded, so you only use half of the measurement for A and D.
Draw a loose curve connecting the endpoints of A and D. If needed, you can also just draw a straight line between the two.
Mark the opening for the neck hole. Depending on your size, it will measure around 6-8 inches across at the top (remember to divide this in half for the folded paper) and about 5-6.5 inches deep. (mine is 6.5" across and 5.5" deep) Draw a curve to connect the two points. This part will take some tweaking and adjusting to get it to look right lol.
Measure the width of the strap - this should be somewhere between 2.5 - 4 inches wide. They will end up about 1/2” to 3/4” narrower once you sew them. Draw the line at a slight angle, as shown.
Connect the endpoint of the strap to the endpoint of line A with a curve like in the diagram.
This will be the pattern for the front piece.
To make the back piece, trace the front pattern, but make a very shallow curve for the neckline instead of a steep one, as shown:
The last piece is the stiff front panel. This is what provides the flattening effect of the binder. To make the pattern, trace the front pattern again. Trim 3/8” in on the sleeves and neckline, and 3/4” to 1” along the bottom. This gives a flatter hem. Then trim the straps shorter by a few inches. This helps the binder lay flatter along the shoulders.
When you're done, you should have 3 pattern pieces that look approximately like this (stiff panel shown overlaid on the stretch fabric to show how it fits together).
NOTE: If you want more compression or just want to make it a bit sturdier, you can add a second panel of stretch fabric to the back piece. Just use the bottom half of the back pattern (from the widest part down to the bottom hem) to cut out another piece of stretch fabric. Attach it to the back piece with a strip of fusible webbing and a zig-zag stitch along the top.
Step 3: Putting It All Together
Once you’ve made the patterns and cut out the pieces of fabric, you should have something that looks like this:
The next step is adding interfacing and fusible webbing. Use your pattern to cut out 3/8" strips to fit on the top of the straps for both pieces, and to the neckline, sleeves, and bottom hem of the back piece, as shown:
If you want to add it to the bottom hem of the front piece, it will help keep that hem flat when sewing it down later, but it's not essential.
If you choose to also use fusible webbing (WHICH I RECOMMEND), you will apply it to the stiff front panel similarly to how the interfacing was applied, ~3/8” strips along the neckline, sleeves, and top of the straps. Cut out two strips for the neckline and sleeves, because we'll use those later too.
Iron the strips onto the front panel as shown:
Once it's on, just peel off the paper, position it webbing-side down on the stretch fabric, and iron it to fuse the two pieces together so everything stays in place while you sew. THIS MAKES IT WAY EASIER TO SEW.
After the stiff front panel is fused to the stretch fabric, you’ll sew the straps of the front and back pieces together, then join the pieces along the sides. Pin the hell out of it to keep everything in place -this type of material is VERY prone to puckering.
When sewing, USE A ZIGZAG STITCH. A straight stitch will NOT WORK for stretch fabric. I adjust mine to 1.3mm long and 3.5mm wide which has worked well. If your machine doesn’t let you adjust stitch length or width, well. That sucks, I don’t really have any advice.
After you sew the front and back pieces together, you can add more fusible webbing to the front panel to help hold the hem down flat and prevent it from puckering while you sew it. Just add the strip, peel the paper off, then fold the hem over and iron it down. This part isn’t really necessary, but it does make the hems look nicer. If nothing else, I would recommend adding it to the neckline.
After that, you just fold & pin all the hems and sew them up with a zigzag stitch, then go over the raw edge at the top of the stiff panel (where we cut the straps shorter).
And that’s it! You’re done! And now you can make your own binders whenever you want!
And hey! If you used this tutorial and wanna throw me a dollar or two on ko-fi, I wouldn't complain.
This is a significant tone-shift for our blog, but I believe it is a necessary post to make.
Today marks the three year anniversary of the death of Morgan Moore, a teenage disabled black trans boy from Maryland, due to criminal neglect from his parents.
He died at age 17 — far too young for anyone, much more when it comes to cases like these when life is cut short due to abuse and incompetence. The people who knew him remember him as a kind and talented soul, and he is missed by many.
Unfortunately, his name is one amongst many others that have been forgotten; he is just one amongst the dozens of black trans men who have been murdered and forgotten by the queer community at large.
We cannot allow that to happen anymore. These deaths came from hatred and forgetting their names is only contributing to that hatred continuing to exist.
Remember them, and remember that every day that you as a trans person (and even moreso if you are a trans person of colour) live, you are committing an act of resistance. I know this is corny and overstated; but truly, your existence is resistance.
Rest in power and pride; Mar'Quis Jackson, Chevy/TK, Semaj Billingsley, Lagend Billions, Banko Brown, EJ Boykin, Mel Groves, Tony McDade, Akihs Gaius Green, Kenneth Bostick, Kashmire Nazier Redd (?), Demarkis Stansberry, Sam Nordquist, and all the others whose names were never even recorded. You will never be forgotten.
Intersex people need and deserve support from our LGBTQ+ allies!
This brochure (link) breaks down how intersex people are impacted by current regressive politics—bills and policies that harass students in sports, restrict necessary healthcare, ban access to accurate ID documents, and endorse nonconsensual intersex surgeries.
The brochure is free to print and distribute anywhere. You can share it at Pride events, with local LGBTQ+ groups, legislators, providers, teachers, EVERYONE—and insist on intersex justice!
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